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Growing Hydrangeas: Planting and Care

Mature white smooth hydrangeas growing along the north side of a house.
Image Credit:
Bonnie Watton
Botanical Name
Hydrangea spp.
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
8a
8b
9a
9b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Shade
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
6-10 feet
Spread
6-10 feet
Soil pH
Acidic
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
Blue
Green
Pink
Purple
Red
White
Special Features
Cut Flower
Long Blooming
Winter Interest
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Resilience
Clay Soil Tolerant
Salt Tolerant
Plant Type
Shrubs and Bushes
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

The best time to plant hydrangeas is spring or fall, when temperatures are mild and the soil is easier to keep evenly moist. Avoid planting during summer heat or when the ground is frozen.

Hydrangeas are fairly easy to grow once established, especially in the right spot. We’ll show you when, where, and how to plant them, how to care for them through the seasons, and what to know before you reach for the pruning shears.

Planting

When to Plant Hydrangeas

Timing matters because a new hydrangea needs a chance to settle in before the weather turns extreme.

SeasonWhen to Plant
SpringAfter the danger of frost has passed and before summer heat arrives.
FallEarly enough for roots to begin establishing before hard freezes.

Where I live in Maine, winters arrive early and stay long, so I almost always plant in spring. That gives a new shrub a full season to settle in before the cold returns. Gardeners in milder climates have more flexibility, and fall can be an excellent choice there.

If I have a choice, I’d rather plant a hydrangea on a cool day than during a spell of blazing heat. Newly planted shrubs need consistent moisture while they establish, and avoiding hot weather spares them some early stress.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

Choose a spot with moist, well-drained soil and the right amount of light for the type of hydrangea you’re growing. Morning sun and afternoon shade is a good starting point for many hydrangeas.

Bigleaf hydrangeas especially appreciate afternoon shade in hot climates, while panicle hydrangeas can take considerably more sun. Smooth hydrangeas, including the classic ‘Annabelle,’ do well in partial shade. Oakleaf hydrangeas also tolerate more sun than bigleaf types, though some afternoon protection is helpful in hotter climates. Climbing hydrangeas are among the more shade-tolerant types.

Avoid soggy spots where water collects, and protect bigleaf hydrangeas from hot, exposed sites. Too much shade can also reduce flowering in bigleaf hydrangeas, so aim for some direct morning light rather than deep shade all day.

I always check a hydrangea’s mature size before I dig. Some stay compact, while others can become very large shrubs—certain panicle hydrangeas can reach 10 feet or more in both height and width. It’s much easier to give one enough room from the start than to wrestle with it later.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

  1. Water the hydrangea before planting. Give the root ball a thorough drink while it’s still in the pot; a dry root ball can be difficult to rewet once it’s in the ground.
  2. Check the roots. Gently slide the hydrangea from its container. If roots are tightly circling the outside of the root ball, loosen them with your fingers or make a few shallow cuts so they can begin growing outward.
  3. Dig wide, not deep. Make the hole about as deep as the root ball and at least twice as wide. The loosened soil around the hole gives new roots somewhere easy to grow.
  4. Check the planting depth. Set the hydrangea in the hole with the top of the root ball level with the surrounding soil. Planting too deeply can cause problems later.
  5. Backfill with the soil you removed. Fill around the root ball with the native soil, gently firming it as you go. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and remove large air pockets.
  6. Finish with mulch. Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the root area to help conserve moisture and moderate soil temperature, but keep it away from the stems.

My tip: Before I start filling the hole, I step back and check the planting depth one more time. It’s much easier to raise a hydrangea now than after you’ve shoveled all that soil back in.

Hydrangea root ball with tightly circling roots held over a garden planting hole.
Loosen tightly circling roots before planting. Photo credit: Agnes Kantaruk

Growing

Watering Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas like consistent moisture, especially while they’re getting established, but they don’t want to sit in soggy soil.

  • Water deeply, then check the soil before watering again rather than following a rigid schedule.
  • Newly planted hydrangeas need more water than established shrubs, especially in hot, dry weather or sunnier spots.
  • Water at the base of the plant, ideally in the morning or late afternoon. A soaker hose or drip line helps keep the leaves dry.
  • Add mulch to help the soil stay evenly moist and buffer temperature swings.

I usually check the soil before reaching for the hose. Hydrangeas can wilt dramatically on a hot afternoon, but if the soil is still moist, more water isn’t always the answer.

Fertilizing

Hydrangeas growing well in reasonably fertile soil may need little or no fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can give you a beautiful crop of leaves—and disappointingly few flowers.

  • Weak growth isn’t always hunger. Poor drainage, dryness, or the wrong soil pH are all possible reasons. Start with a soil test if you’re unsure what the soil needs.
  • If fertilizer is needed, use a balanced, slow-release product in spring as new growth begins, following the label rate.
  • Don’t overdo it. More fertilizer does not mean more blooms.

I tend to leave a healthy, blooming hydrangea alone. If it’s growing well, I’d rather not feed it just because the calendar says I should.

What about blue and pink hydrangeas? Some bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas change flower color depending on how acidic or alkaline the soil is. If you want to influence the color, test the soil first and adjust it gradually rather than simply adding more fertilizer.

Pruning Hydrangeas

I don’t prune a hydrangea until I know which type I’m dealing with. Cutting some hydrangeas at the wrong time can mean cutting off next year’s flower buds.

  • Bigleaf, oakleaf, and mountain hydrangeas generally bloom on old wood—stems that grew the previous year. If they need pruning, do it in summer, soon after flowering, before they begin forming next year’s flower buds.
  • Panicle and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood and can be pruned in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins.
  • Some newer reblooming bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas flower on both old and new growth, so their pruning needs are more flexible.

 For pruning times by type, refer to the Almanac’s complete Hydrangea Pruning Guide and Chart.

Gardener pruning woody hydrangea stems with hand pruners.
Pruning time depends on the hydrangea type. Identify yours before you cut. Credit: Igor Paszkiewicz

Seasonal Care

  • Summer: During hot, dry spells, keep the root zone evenly moist and maintain a layer of mulch. Bigleaf hydrangeas are especially prone to heat and drought stress; panicle and oakleaf types generally handle heat better.
  • Winter: In cold climates, protect the root zone with mulch after the soil cools. Bigleaf hydrangeas may need extra protection in exposed locations because their flower buds can be damaged by severe cold or late freezes.

I usually leave the faded flower heads in place for winter—they add some interest to an otherwise sleepy garden, and there’s no rush to reach for the pruners.

Harvesting

When to Cut

For bouquets, wait until the flowers are fully open and beginning to mature; older blooms generally last longer after cutting. Cut in the morning. For dried flowers, wait until the blooms feel slightly papery.

How to Cut

Cut stems with clean pruners, remove leaves that would sit below the water line, and place the stems in water right away.

Drying

Hydrangeas are especially good dried. Stand the stems in a vase with a few inches of water and let the water gradually evaporate, or hang them upside down in a warm, dry place out of direct sun.

Pests and Problems

Common Problems

  • Few or no flowers: The most common culprits are pruning at the wrong time, winter damage to flower buds, too much shade, or too much nitrogen fertilizer.
  • Wilted leaves: Check the soil before watering. Dry soil means the plant needs a drink, but hydrangeas can also droop temporarily during the hottest part of the day even when the soil is moist. If wilting continues even when the soil is moist, check for poor drainage or root trouble.
  • Brown, crispy leaf edges: Heat, drought, or too much intense sun can scorch hydrangeas, especially bigleaf types. Too much water can cause it too. Keep the soil evenly moist and provide afternoon shade where summers are hot.

Common Pests

  • Curled or distorted new leaves with sticky residue: Look for aphids on tender growth. A strong spray of water can knock off small infestations; use insecticidal soap if they persist.
  • Yellow or bronzed speckles with fine webbing: Suspect spider mites, especially during hot, dry weather. Spray them off with water; insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can help with heavier infestations.

Plant Diseases

  • Purple or brown spots on leaves: Leaf spot diseases such as Cercospora are common. Remove fallen infected leaves and water at the base of the plant to keep foliage dry.
  • White, powdery coating on leaves: Powdery mildew is more likely where plants are shaded or crowded. Improve air circulation and remove badly affected leaves.

Types

Hydrangeas come in several main groups. Knowing which type you have helps you understand how much sun it can take, how large it may grow, and how to care for it.

  • Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) are the classic pink, blue, or purple hydrangeas with rounded mophead or flatter lacecap flower heads. They prefer some afternoon shade, especially in hot climates.
  • Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) have cone-shaped flowers and tolerate more sun and cold than most hydrangeas. Some grow into very large shrubs or small trees.
  • Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens), including the familiar ‘Annabelle,’ have rounded white or pink flower heads and are hardy, reliable bloomers.
  • Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) have cone-shaped blooms and distinctive oak-like leaves that often turn red or burgundy in fall. They handle heat better than bigleaf types.
  • Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata) are smaller, more compact shrubs, often with delicate lacecap flowers. They appreciate protection from intense sun and wind.
  • Climbing hydrangeas (H. petiolaris) are woody vines rather than shrubs. They tolerate considerable shade and need a sturdy wall, fence, or other support to climb.

Want help choosing one? See our guide to the best hydrangea types and varieties, with photos and recommended varieties for different gardens.

Wit and Wisdom

  • The name “hydrangea” comes from the Greek words hydor, meaning “water,” and angeion, meaning “vessel,” a reference to the plant’s cup-shaped seed capsules.
  • In Victorian flower language, hydrangeas could symbolize gratitude for being understood—or, rather less warmly, frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.
  • The oakleaf hydrangea is the state wildflower of Alabama.

Shrubs and Trees
Sources
  1. Oregon State Extension — Hydrangea Location and Planting
  2. Clemson Home and Garden Information Center — Hydrangea Care and Planting Tips
  3. University of Minnesota Extension — Pruning Hydrangeas
  4. University of Maryland — Watering Treees and Shubs
  5. UConn Home & Garden Education Center — Fall Planting

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Jsf</span> Thu, 10/20/2016 - 14:22
A friend's mother in law gave me a (too big) bag of dried clusters of seed pods, each containing a large number of seeds from various hydrangeas that thrive in the cold of New England. I weeded out thorn brush and other wild plants from a 5 by 2.5 ft patch on the boundary between cleared and wild parts of my property, dug out all the roots from the very organic acidic soil, opened six of the clusters of pods and uniformly spread that vast number of seeds (far too many for that area) pressed them in slightly, then threw 1/16 in of inorganic soil on top to discourage whatever might find and eat the seeds. I never had a hydrangea before, on the slim chance that I did any of that right and a tenth of them sprout next spring, how do I tell them apart from weeds? I didn't find any pictures of what they look like at that stage. If anything close to a tenth sprout I need to transplant them further apart very early. How do I guess below ground size from above ground size in the first few months, to know when I can't wait longer to transplant without excessive intertwining of roots?
<span>Diane Madison</span> Tue, 10/11/2016 - 21:33
Hurricane Matthew caused the river I live on to spill over the bank into my yard and covered my first row of hydrangeas for about 2-3 hours. The river water is brackish/salty. They really took a beating and look awful now. Will they come back next Spring? Should I prune them back??
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 10/21/2016 - 15:56

They should bounce back next spring, yes. Plants often take months, sometimes even years, to recover from a major shock like that. Don't prune them, that would be an added stressor at this point. In the spring, just remove any dead wood. Next fall, if they are strong and healthy again, you can do a regular annual pruning. Good luck!

 <span>Shira</span> Fri, 09/23/2016 - 15:59
This year my hydrangeas acted crazy... There are about 10years old . Every year in November my husband cuts them back to 18 inches and they come back beautiful. Until this year... In there growing stage we had some really harsh rain and the bent down and many broke off. One of the bushes only got small flowers that never got to the usual large size. One bush under a large tree now barely grows and sparsely flower. Then it looks like something ate there leaves.. They turned green early in July which is very weird... I live in Chicago and this is my pride and joy. Next month after Halloween is when we cut them .. I tried to add photos but won't let me
<span>Sandra N</span> Wed, 09/21/2016 - 13:16
My hydrangea was accidentally weeded by a gardener. How can I salvage it? It's just about 3 inches from grown now. When it was cut, it was mid-September but temp was low 90 degrees F.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 09/23/2016 - 10:20

At this point, it is a matter of letting it grow back. If you live in a cold climate, mulch it for the winter. Next spring, start fertilizing. Give it a growing season to bounce back and send up new growth. The following year, get onto an annual pruning schedule. Good luck!

 <span>Joanna Meeks</span> Tue, 09/13/2016 - 22:24
The plants are expensive. I have heard by cutting some leaves off I can get more plants. How do I do this? And first of all is this true and when do I do this. What is the procedure?
<span>Janice Bertliff</span> Fri, 09/09/2016 - 12:44
my hydrangea will not bloom.
<span>Leeta Vinson</span> Fri, 09/09/2016 - 02:16
These are bushes that I asked about.The ones with the large cone shape