Growing Hydrangeas

How to Plant, Grow, and Prune Hydrangeas

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With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm in summertime that’s hard to resist. While these flowering shrubs are low-maintenance, proper care will keep them blooming. Our Hydrangea Guide provides summer plant care tips for all you need to know about growing hydrangeas—from watering to fertilizing to pruning to winter care.

About Hydrangeas

Unrivaled in the shrub world for beautiful flowers, these elegant plants are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce abundant blooms. Colors beguile with clear blue, vibrant pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!

Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers. Varieties abound (every year, it seems, breeders present us with more options!), and gardeners’ expectations of bloom size and color are boundless. To know how your hydrangea will grow, pay attention to the types, defined below. When you know what to expect, delights will be magnified.

Enjoy this ode to the beautiful of hydrangeas and learn how to grow hydrangeas in our guide below.

Planting

When to Plant Hydrangeas

Plant in spring after the last spring frost or in fall before the first fall frost. See local frost dates.
Plant before the heat of summer arrives.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

Most hydrangeas will thrive in fertile, well-draining soils that receive plenty of moisture. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
Generally, hydrangeas prefer partial sun. Ideally, they will be given full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade to protect from the hot midday sun. This is especially true for the Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla), which is prone to wilting. Some varieties are more tolerant of full sun.
Space hydrangeas anywhere from 3 to 10 feet apart, depending on type.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly again.

Pink hydrangea flowers

How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings

Hydrangeas can easily be grown from cuttings. They root readily and the process makes for a great lesson in propagation. Here’s how to do it:

On a well-established hydrangea, find a branch that is new growth and that has not flowered. New growth will appear lighter in color than old growth, and the stem will not be as rigid.
From the tip of the branch, move 4 to 5 inches down and make a horizontal cut. Make sure that there are at least 3 to 4 pairs of leaves on your cutting.
Remove the lowest pair of leaves from the cutting, trimming them flush to the stem. Roots grow more easily from these leaf nodes, so if you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Be sure to keep at least 2 pairs of leaves at the tip end of the cutting, though.
If the remaining leaves are quite large, cut them in half, removing the tip-half. This prevents the leaves from hitting the sides of the plastic bag you will place over the cutting later on (to keep the humidity up).
(Optional) Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone and an anti-fungal powder for plants (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will encourage rooting and discourage rotting.
Prepare a small pot and fill it with moistened potting mix. Plant the cutting in the soil, sinking it down to the first pair of remaining leaves. Water lightly to get rid of any air gaps around the stem.
Cover the entire pot loosely with a plastic bag. Make sure the bag isn’t touching the leaves of the cutting, otherwise the leaves can rot. (Chopsticks or something similar can be used to prop up the bag and keep it off the leaves.)
Place the pot in a warm area that’s sheltered from direct sunlight and wind.
Check on your cutting every few days to make sure that it isn’t rotting and only water again once the top layer of soil is dry. With luck, the cutting should root in a few weeks! (Check by gently pulling on the cutting; if you feel resistance, roots have formed.)

Care

Hydrangea Care

Watering

For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water.
Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. It’s better to deeply water 3 times a week than sprinkle water in a shallow manner. This encourages root growth.
Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture.
Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry, and flowering will be hampered by a lack of water.
Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves.
It’s best to water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.

Fertilizing

If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.

Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.

Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May and June.
Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.

Winter protection

In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)

How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers

It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.

It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.

Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.

See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.

Hydrangea colors

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.

Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.

Hydrangea Type	When to Prune	Where Flowers Appear
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Oakleaf (H. quercifolia)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Panicle (H. paniculata)	Late winter, before spring growth	On new growth
Smooth (H. arborescens)	Late winter, before spring growth	On new growth
Mountain (H. serrata)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth

Pruning Common Hydrangeas

The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)

Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).

Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.

Other Hydrangeas

Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).

Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.

Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.

Pests/Diseases

Protect against pests and disease by choosing resistant cultivars.

Powdery mildew, leaf spot, wilt, and bight can all appear on hydrangeas.
Pests are rare, but can appear when plants become stressed. Common pests include aphids and red spider mites.

Properly caring for hydrangeas is your best defense. (See above tips on watering and hydrangea care.)

Harvest/Storage

How to Cut and Store Dried Hydrangea Flowers

Use dried hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:

Cut the flower heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
Remove leaves from stems, and hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted fabric dye.

Bigleaf Hydrangea (mophead)

How to Use Hydrangeas in a Bouquet

Place the freshly cut hydrangea stems immediately into cold water to avoid wilting.
Recut the woody stems at a slant under water. Remove lower leaves on the stems.
Arrange the stems in a vase and place in a cool spot.
Check the water in the vase daily and mist the blooms with water.
Soak wilting blooms in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes to revive them.

Recommended Varieties

For a more detailed overview of the many types of hydrangeas, check out Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

There are two main groups of hydrangeas:

Group 1: Plants that Bloom on New Growth (This Year’s Stems)

The following hydrangeas, which form their buds in early summer on new growth, will flower reliably each year, requiring no special care.

Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)
- ‘Grandiflora’ is a big, old-fashioned, floppy variety, ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Moth’, and ‘Pee Wee’ fit the scale of small gardens. ‘Limelight’ produces cool-green flowers and grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet.
Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
- Look for the cultivars H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘Annabelle’, which produce many large (up to 14 inches across), tight, symmetrical blooms in late summer.

Bigleaf hydrangea lacecap
Image: Lacecap hydrangea

Group 2: Plants that Bloom on Old Growth (Last Year’s Stems)

If you live in Zone 8 or warmer, choose plants from this group. Gardeners in cool climate zones will find many of them a challenge, because they set flower buds in the fall. Although hardy to Zones 4 and 5, the buds are prone to damage by an early frost in fall, a late frost in spring, or excessively cold temperatures when dormant in winter. This, along with untimely pruning, can result in inconsistent flowering or no flowering at all.

Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- You can expect exceptional fall color from ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Snow Flake’, and ‘Alice’.
Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
- We love ‘All Summer Beauty’ (Mophead), which has profuse, dark blue flowers—turning more pink in soils with near neutral pH. If its buds are winter-killed, the plant will form new ones in spring and still bloom.
- ‘Nikko Blue’ (Mophead) is vigorous, with large, rounded, blue flowers.
- ‘Blue Wave’ (Lacecap) produces rich blue to mauve or lilac-blue to pink flowers.
- ‘Color Fantasy’ (Mophead) has reddish or deep purple flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. It grows to about 3 feet tall.
Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata)
- Examples are ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’. In acidic soil, ‘Preziosa’ produces blossoms of an extraordinary blend of pale shades of blue, mauve, violet, and green.
Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala ssp. Petiolaris)
- ‘Firefly’ is a newly-patented variety exhibiting variegated foliage.

For more about hydrangea varieties, see Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

Wit & Wisdom

The word “hydrangea” is derived from Greek hydor meaning “water” and angeion meaning “vessel,” referring to the plant’s seed pods, which look like small water jugs.
In the language of flowers, hydrangeas symbolize gratitude for being understood, or frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.

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Reader Comments

Unfortunately with this

Unfortunately with this particular type of hydrangea, it will most likely not bloom again until next Spring.

As far as testing your soil's pH, you can send samples in to a soil lab testing site or pick up an at home pH kit from your local gardening center.

Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

Change the color?

Is there a way to make the white Annabelles stay white longer? If not, can they be changed to pink or blue?

Hydrangea color

The flower color of these plants varies depending on the pH level of the soil that they live in. For example, pink flowers enjoy neutral soils while blue flowers tend to enjoy soil with a higher acidic level. Whites tend to fall into the same category as pink.

Start by testing the pH level of the soil to learn whether or not you need to increase or decrease the amount of acid to treat your soil in order to achieve the color you desire.

I hope this helps!

Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

sharing

My friend has one plant that is 6ft wide by 4 1/2 tall. This plant has purple,pink,& blue blooms.
Can we split it, sort of like you can do with hostas?

Yes, with care. Divide in the

Yes, with care. Divide in the early spring by using a shovel to divide the clump. You're going to need to water, water, water all season to help it restart growth.

Espoma Soil Acidifier

Ok, so I bought some Espoma Soil Acidifier for my soil that tested at 8.0 alkaline pH but now i don't know how much to put per plant. I have two hydrangea's and a lot of roses. the instructions are below:

Soil Acidifier Recommendation
In the absence of a soil test, follow the rates below. Results can take up to several weeks depending on rate, soil temperature and timing of application. Reduce the rates by one-third for sandy soils and increase by one-half for clay soils. In general, the optimum range for blue hydrangeas is 5.5 - 6.0, and for blueberries it's 4.5 - 5.0.
Pounds per 100 Square Feet of Loamy Soil
Desired pH:
Present pH 6.5 6.0 5.5 5.0 4.5
8.0 3 4 5 6 7
7.5 2 3 4 5 6
7.0 1 2 3 4 5
6.5 NA 1 2 3 4
6.0 NA NA 1 2 3

Any help would be welcomed!
Thanks
~Christina

Me again...

Sorry, just me again. I haven't opened this Espoma Acidifier yet. It is 18% free sulfur and 12% combined sulfur. I have two small hydrangea's that I just planted and about 13 rose plants. I have no idea how much of this stuff to use. It says on it to use 1 1/4 cup on hydrangea's? Seriously? And it doesn't specify all at once or multiple treatments. Also it doesn't specify for roses! Broadcast rates: 12lbs per 100 sq ft for each 1 point reduction pH required. My soil is at 8.0. That would be a heck of alot! I am not sure if I should take it back and find something else that would do better or just use this and how much to use? I just now that my plants really need the help. Just using some coffee grounds right now.

Anyway, thanks for any help!
~Christina
Indiana

We suggest that you use 1 to

We suggest that you use 1 to 1-1/4 cups of Espoma around each plant. Spread evenly around the plant out to the drip line and water well. Repeat in 60 day intervals until desired pH or bloom color is achieved.

Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

When is the best time to

When is the best time to begin fertilizing Hydrangea plants in the spring to encourage blue flowers? I have the Espoma fertilizer. My plants are several years old (~5) and range from 2.5 to 3.5 feet high. I live in Zone 5.

Also, what is the best way to protect them from a late spring frost. I only got a few blooms last year. Admittedly, I was not good about fertilizing them, but I think our sometimes late spring freezes were the major culprit.

Alkaline soil...

I am so grateful for this site!

I live in Indiana and just bought 2 hydrangea's. A Forever and Ever blue heaven and a forever and ever peppermint hydrangea. I planted one next to the house where it gets about 7 hours of sun and then shade in the afternoon. Anyway, I had tested the soil with a store soil test kit and according to the color it turned dark green which means alkaline (I tested it with a gallon of water that said spring water). Then I tested it 3 ft away but used the bottled water I drink and it was a lighter green which means 7.0 to 8.0. I have well water that comes out of my faucets and didn't use that. Should I try again with my well water to see exactly how much pH?

I read that compost can help and grass clippings and peat moss and coffee grounds. I don't know since I just planted it if I should use sulphur or sulphate or just coffee grounds and peat moss?

Thanks for the help. (I also have about 20 rose bushes and the plants are doing ok it seems, but I still need to lower the hP for them also...)

Me again...

I wrote that comment. One more thing... I don't think I have that good of drainage. I planted the hydrangea so it is slightly higher than the ground around, kind of like a small hill and put some tiny pebbles in the soil when I planted it. I also tried to pack some of the soil down so to not have any air pockets. Is there anything I should change for the next hydrangea?

Thanks again.
~Christina
Indiana

To lower the pH quickly add

To lower the pH quickly add sphagnum peat. It is also a good source of organic matter and helps drainage. (The pH of Canadian sphagnum peat generally ranges from 3.0 to 4.5.) Add a 1 to 2-inch layer of sphagnum peat and work it into the top 8 to 12 inches of soil before planting (work as much peat into the soil around your established hydrangeas as you can). Keep adding your coffee grounds too. Soil with pH level of about 5.2-5.5 will produce blue flowers, soil with pH level above 6.0 will produce pink flowers.
The hydrangeas need an evenly moist well-drained soil for best growth and benefit from being planted in a relatively sheltered location with morning sun and afternoon shade. Apply organic mulch around the plants to conserve soil moisture and protect them from temperature extremes. All the best!

Thanks for the kind words! We

Thanks for the kind words! We replied to your questions below your other comment below. --The Old Farmer's Almanac staff

alkaline soil

When you test your soil, you should NOT use bottled spring water, bottled drinking water, or well water. All may have high levels of dissolved minerals that can skew your test. Invest in a gallon of distilled or reverse osmosis purified water, and use only that water for your pH testing.

map zone

I live in red deer alberta and want to grow a hydrangea is it possible?

Peegee hydrangea is hard to

Peegee hydrangea is hardy to your zone. Other readers say they've had some success with 'Pinky Winky' and 'Annabelle' and 'Quick Fire' varieties. They'll all very different. Have fun exploring!

hydrangea

what is causing my hydrangea's new growths to dry up and fall off??

Did you prune? Most

Did you prune? Most hydrangeas bloom on old wood and if you cut in the spring, you won’t get any blooms. Prune after blooming is done.

Do you know which variety you

Do you know which variety you have? And where do you live? It's possible that spring came early and your hydrangea was leafing out while still covered for winter protection. So it lacked the sunlight needed. They might recover so leave it until mid to late May.

There are several

There are several possibilities. Perhaps the hydrangea needed to be uncovered earlier from the winter? Once mulch and winter protection is removed, I hope you started to see normal growth. Or, did you have warm temps and then a freeze? If so, the shrub may be fine but it's hard to say what will happen this year. Also, avoid overfertilizing.

blue moon hydrangea

if you don't have acidic soil what do you do or put in it to get it

adding acid to soil

Adding ammonium sulfate will lower soil pH immediately. Adding granulated sulfur will also lower soil pH, but the process is much slower. If you don't want to use chemicals, add coffee grounds and pine needles. They are slow acting but a good source--and free! No matter what you do, check your soil pH periodically in order to control the process.

No flowers

I recently moved into a house that has hydrangeas. The owner has said they have had them for three years and they only flowered in the first year. What can I do to get them to flower again?

How to get hydrangeas to bloom

Do they get enough sun and water? Hydrangeas thrive on morning sun and light afternoon shade. The prior owners may have planted them in a poor location. If your plants continue to grow but don't bloom, try moving them in the fall after the leaves drop. Are you keeping them extremely well watered? Hydrangeas want to be watered often! Also, mulch them to maintain moisture.

Moving Hydrangeas

I would like to move 2 3-year old hydrangea bushes. When is the best time to do that?

Fall is the best time to

Fall is the best time to move hydrangeas