Growing Hydrangeas

How to Plant, Grow, and Prune Hydrangeas

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With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm in summertime that’s hard to resist. While these flowering shrubs are low-maintenance, proper care will keep them blooming. Our Hydrangea Guide provides summer plant care tips for all you need to know about growing hydrangeas—from watering to fertilizing to pruning to winter care.

About Hydrangeas

Unrivaled in the shrub world for beautiful flowers, these elegant plants are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce abundant blooms. Colors beguile with clear blue, vibrant pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!

Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers. Varieties abound (every year, it seems, breeders present us with more options!), and gardeners’ expectations of bloom size and color are boundless. To know how your hydrangea will grow, pay attention to the types, defined below. When you know what to expect, delights will be magnified.

Enjoy this ode to the beautiful of hydrangeas and learn how to grow hydrangeas in our guide below.

Planting

When to Plant Hydrangeas

Plant in spring after the last spring frost or in fall before the first fall frost. See local frost dates.
Plant before the heat of summer arrives.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

Most hydrangeas will thrive in fertile, well-draining soils that receive plenty of moisture. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
Generally, hydrangeas prefer partial sun. Ideally, they will be given full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade to protect from the hot midday sun. This is especially true for the Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla), which is prone to wilting. Some varieties are more tolerant of full sun.
Space hydrangeas anywhere from 3 to 10 feet apart, depending on type.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly again.

Pink hydrangea flowers

How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings

Hydrangeas can easily be grown from cuttings. They root readily and the process makes for a great lesson in propagation. Here’s how to do it:

On a well-established hydrangea, find a branch that is new growth and that has not flowered. New growth will appear lighter in color than old growth, and the stem will not be as rigid.
From the tip of the branch, move 4 to 5 inches down and make a horizontal cut. Make sure that there are at least 3 to 4 pairs of leaves on your cutting.
Remove the lowest pair of leaves from the cutting, trimming them flush to the stem. Roots grow more easily from these leaf nodes, so if you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Be sure to keep at least 2 pairs of leaves at the tip end of the cutting, though.
If the remaining leaves are quite large, cut them in half, removing the tip-half. This prevents the leaves from hitting the sides of the plastic bag you will place over the cutting later on (to keep the humidity up).
(Optional) Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone and an anti-fungal powder for plants (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will encourage rooting and discourage rotting.
Prepare a small pot and fill it with moistened potting mix. Plant the cutting in the soil, sinking it down to the first pair of remaining leaves. Water lightly to get rid of any air gaps around the stem.
Cover the entire pot loosely with a plastic bag. Make sure the bag isn’t touching the leaves of the cutting, otherwise the leaves can rot. (Chopsticks or something similar can be used to prop up the bag and keep it off the leaves.)
Place the pot in a warm area that’s sheltered from direct sunlight and wind.
Check on your cutting every few days to make sure that it isn’t rotting and only water again once the top layer of soil is dry. With luck, the cutting should root in a few weeks! (Check by gently pulling on the cutting; if you feel resistance, roots have formed.)

Care

Hydrangea Care

Watering

For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water.
Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. It’s better to deeply water 3 times a week than sprinkle water in a shallow manner. This encourages root growth.
Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture.
Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry, and flowering will be hampered by a lack of water.
Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves.
It’s best to water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.

Fertilizing

If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.

Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.

Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May and June.
Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.

Winter protection

In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)

How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers

It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.

It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.

Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.

See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.

Hydrangea colors

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.

Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.

Hydrangea Type	When to Prune	Where Flowers Appear
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Oakleaf (H. quercifolia)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Panicle (H. paniculata)	Late winter, before spring growth	On new growth
Smooth (H. arborescens)	Late winter, before spring growth	On new growth
Mountain (H. serrata)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth

Pruning Common Hydrangeas

The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)

Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).

Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.

Other Hydrangeas

Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).

Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.

Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.

Pests/Diseases

Protect against pests and disease by choosing resistant cultivars.

Powdery mildew, leaf spot, wilt, and bight can all appear on hydrangeas.
Pests are rare, but can appear when plants become stressed. Common pests include aphids and red spider mites.

Properly caring for hydrangeas is your best defense. (See above tips on watering and hydrangea care.)

Harvest/Storage

How to Cut and Store Dried Hydrangea Flowers

Use dried hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:

Cut the flower heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
Remove leaves from stems, and hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted fabric dye.

Bigleaf Hydrangea (mophead)

How to Use Hydrangeas in a Bouquet

Place the freshly cut hydrangea stems immediately into cold water to avoid wilting.
Recut the woody stems at a slant under water. Remove lower leaves on the stems.
Arrange the stems in a vase and place in a cool spot.
Check the water in the vase daily and mist the blooms with water.
Soak wilting blooms in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes to revive them.

Recommended Varieties

For a more detailed overview of the many types of hydrangeas, check out Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

There are two main groups of hydrangeas:

Group 1: Plants that Bloom on New Growth (This Year’s Stems)

The following hydrangeas, which form their buds in early summer on new growth, will flower reliably each year, requiring no special care.

Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)
- ‘Grandiflora’ is a big, old-fashioned, floppy variety, ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Moth’, and ‘Pee Wee’ fit the scale of small gardens. ‘Limelight’ produces cool-green flowers and grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet.
Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
- Look for the cultivars H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘Annabelle’, which produce many large (up to 14 inches across), tight, symmetrical blooms in late summer.

Bigleaf hydrangea lacecap
Image: Lacecap hydrangea

Group 2: Plants that Bloom on Old Growth (Last Year’s Stems)

If you live in Zone 8 or warmer, choose plants from this group. Gardeners in cool climate zones will find many of them a challenge, because they set flower buds in the fall. Although hardy to Zones 4 and 5, the buds are prone to damage by an early frost in fall, a late frost in spring, or excessively cold temperatures when dormant in winter. This, along with untimely pruning, can result in inconsistent flowering or no flowering at all.

Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- You can expect exceptional fall color from ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Snow Flake’, and ‘Alice’.
Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
- We love ‘All Summer Beauty’ (Mophead), which has profuse, dark blue flowers—turning more pink in soils with near neutral pH. If its buds are winter-killed, the plant will form new ones in spring and still bloom.
- ‘Nikko Blue’ (Mophead) is vigorous, with large, rounded, blue flowers.
- ‘Blue Wave’ (Lacecap) produces rich blue to mauve or lilac-blue to pink flowers.
- ‘Color Fantasy’ (Mophead) has reddish or deep purple flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. It grows to about 3 feet tall.
Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata)
- Examples are ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’. In acidic soil, ‘Preziosa’ produces blossoms of an extraordinary blend of pale shades of blue, mauve, violet, and green.
Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala ssp. Petiolaris)
- ‘Firefly’ is a newly-patented variety exhibiting variegated foliage.

For more about hydrangea varieties, see Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

Wit & Wisdom

The word “hydrangea” is derived from Greek hydor meaning “water” and angeion meaning “vessel,” referring to the plant’s seed pods, which look like small water jugs.
In the language of flowers, hydrangeas symbolize gratitude for being understood, or frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.

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Reader Comments

Hydrangea Cuttings

Hydrangeas can be started from cuttings, though typically it’s done with cuttings that don’t have flowers. Here’s how to do it:

Snip off the actual flower and discard it. Trim the remaining stem down to 3 or 4 inches. Use the part of the stem that was closest to the flower.
Leave only one to three pairs of leaves on the stem and remove the rest. Hydrangeas produce roots most easily from the places where leaves once were.
(Optional) Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone (available at a local hardware or garden store).
Plant in moist potting mix and cover loosely with a plastic bag. Make sure the bag isn’t touching the leaves of the cutting, otherwise the leaves can rot. Check every so often to make sure that the cutting isn’t rotting and only water again once the top layer of soil is dry.
Place the pot in a warm spot that’s sheltered from direct sunlight and wind. With luck, the cutting should root in a few weeks.

The cutting can be kept indoors if outside temperatures are too extreme, or placed in a sheltered spot outdoors. Wait until fall, when temperatures are mild, to transplant the cutting to its permanent home in your garden!

If you try this method, let us know how it goes!

Hygrangeas leaves

My leaves are turning really brown/grey plus I think something is eating the leaves. please give advice as to what I should do. I live in Mississippi

Hardiness Planting Zone?

Will hydrangeas grow in zone 10?

Hygrangeas

Can a hygrangeas that is in full bloom be planted?

Planting hydrangea

Yes, you may transplant established hydrangeas but it’s best to move specimens in the spring after the last spring frost or in the fall. It’s best to avoid the period when the hydrangea is actively growing (March through September).

Planting Blooming Hydrangea past the planting stage

We received a blooming hydrangea as a gift from a funeral. Being that it's May and past the planting stage, should we plant anyway?

Planting blooming hydrangeas now - best location north, east?

Last summer I planted two hydrangeas on the north east side of my home and they survived the winter. The leaves are about eight inches tall. Would they grow better in another location?

There's yet another color out there

There's also a variety that blooms with very light green flowers (which eventually turn reddish-purple over time).

Repotting

I've recently been given beautiful hydrangea as a gift but it losing flowers, wilting and dying off already. Its too cold to plant outside yet. If I transfer to bigger pot for a month or more and then transplant outside should that be ok or too traumatic for plant? Otherwise I'll get big pot and leave it! Thank you for any advice☺

wilting hydrangea

The hydrangea gift was in all likelihood a forced plant—forced to flower out of its natural season by a nursery to be appealing in stores. Sometimes these can be saved, sometimes they can not. Try to keep the moisture level balanced—not too wet. Let it dry out between waterings. You could try to transplant it…but if it is weak/wilting now, the stress of transplanting may be too much for it to handle. If you lose it, consider that it was a lovely gesture—and the inspiration to purchase one that you can plant outdoors and enjoy for years.

Poison

Are hydrangea poison to animals?

toxicity

Here’s what the ASPCA has to say, “Hydrangeas do contain small amounts of cyanide but surprisingly we do not see signs consistent with cyanide (difficulty breathing, dark red gums, death). Dogs and cats frequently have vomiting and diarrhea after ingesting the hydrangea flowers. It would be best to keep the flowers outside and away from your pets.” For more information, see ASPCA Animal Poison Control.

Plan to plant hydrangaeas

Hello! I am from Philippines and I am planning to plant hydrangaeas for my thesis, but I only have six months before my thesis starts. Will hydrangaeas flower within that range of time? Is there any technique to grow the hydrangaeas faster??

join

hydrangea Macrophylla care? Climbing hydrangea?

1. Was given a Macrophyll late July, was potted, still has a few leaves. How do I transplant to outdoors? 2. Had a landscaper plant a "climbing" hydrangea on the NW corner of our garage. In over 5 years it has NEVER bloomed. HELP!

Plant wont grow.

I planted 2 Hydrangaes in front of our Church. One is growing and growing and is beautiful.
On the other side of the walk the other one was planted. It would not grow and would not produce leaves in the spring. So I bought another one, it is not doing anything and looks poor. I am assuming the soil is in need of fertilizer, am I correct? If I am, what kind do I need?
Thank you

The good hydrangea and the bad hydrangea...

There may be a parable here somewhere, but we’ll leave it for another day. You are possibly correct and definitely smart in considering the soil. Note we did not say fertilizer—but it also may be needed. You might consider having the soil tested. (If the plant is not thriving, delaying to get this done won’t hurt it any more.) Contact your local cooperative extension service (choose your state here: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services ) and inquire at the nearest one about a soil test. While you’re at it, you might get soil from the successful side tested, too. The results indicate the condition of the soil. However, it must be said that hydrangeas are not all that picky about soil. So …

How about sunlight? Some hydrangeas like sunlight, some prefer partial, and some do best in shade. Are sunlight conditions the same in both locations?

Do both locations get about the same amount of water/rain? Does the soil retail/drain water in similar fashion? Notice, here (above) under “CARE” that these plants need a fair amount of water when planted, in order to become established: https://www.almanac.com/plant/hydrangea

Finally, did you purchase the plants from a local nursery? Sometimes vendors will stand behind their products; in the case, replacing the plant (you might need a receipt of purchase). At minimum, you might take a picture and show the two plants to the vendor and see if they have any comment.

We hope this helps!

Is it too late?

Im in western washington and recently bought a house with a hydrangea. I would say they are a common variety. Is it to late in the year to prune my hydrangeas? And if so what should I do in spring to insure a summer bloom?

Repotting My Hydrangea

I Need Help Repotting My Hydrangea Indoors Thank You.

Panicle Hydrangea starter

We just purchased Pinacle Hydrangea starters. We live in Zone 3 area. Is it advisable to winter them in the house ?

Panicle Hydrangea

Hi Lily,

Panicle Hydrangeas are hardy to zone 3, meaning they will over winter outdoors just fine. No need to bring them indoors.

Rooted cuttings - now what?

I live in Massachusetts just north of Boston. I rooted some cuttings of a beautiful hydrangea macrophylla. The roots are still quite small. I am not sure what to do next. They seem too tender to plant in the ground. CAN I winter them over indoors? Thanks in a for any advice.

Overwintering indoors

You should be fine overwintering the cuttings indoors. If these are mere shoots, you might keep them in your living space. If they are small shrubs, in pots, put them in a cool, dark place where temps remain between 40 and 50 °F. Water them one time. Come spring, ease them into the outdoor light and temps.

Endless summer hydrangeas

I have two beautiful hydrangeas that have grown too s
Big for their space and are crowding out other plants. Can I prune or shape them to contain their size and spread?

Pruning Hydrangeas

Yes, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’ respond well to pruning. It is best done right after they bloom, and a good practice is to cut back to the next emerging bud. Here is some more info on pruning hydrangeas: Pruning Hydrangea Varieties

Flowers faded

I planted 2 large hydrangeas in early July. They were loaded with huge bright pink flowers. Within a week the colors had faded to a pale dirty pinkinsh greenish off white. New growth is appearing and the flowers aren't a bit dry they are just faded. What should I do?

Potted Hydrangea in Zone 5 winter

Hello, I am new to gardening and really do not know some of the terms used in planting flowers such as "crown" and other various terms, but learning as I go along. I've done well with annuals when I plant seeds and let them go! But, I'm uneducated regarding perennial plants and care. I bought a fully bloomed Hydrangea at Walmart around the 1st of May. I replanted it in a very large pot on my back patio where it bloomed beautifully all through June. When I bought them they were a beautiful blue, but due to ph imbalance in the soil they ended up bright pink, which I didn't mind. When the "mopheads" died I dead-headed them in hopes of seeing them bloom again next spring. As of the end of August they are still thriving in the pot and growing well. The plant is approximately 15-inches tall with new bright green leaves appearing at the top regularly. I'm concerned now that winter is near, what to do with the plant when it gets cold here in SE Nebraska? There is no way for me to carry the plant inside because it's very heavy. Can I keep it safe through winter? Thank you!

Protecting Hydrangeas in Winter

Hello!
The best way to protect your potted hydrangea would be to put it in a sheltered area where it will not be hit by harsh wintry winds, but will still experience some colder temperatures through the winter. It is most likely a winter hardy variety, so it can survive the colder temperatures, but keeping it sheltered from wind will help ensure that it survives. You do not want it to get too warm on your patio, or else the plant may be tricked into thinking spring has arrived and it will grow prematurely.
If it gets cold enough, the plant may die back to the ground, but do not be too alarmed if this happens, as it should re-grow in the spring. Add an inch or two of organic mulch (available at garden centers and hardware stores) to the top of the pot to insulate the roots. Good luck!

Leaves Turning Yellow

Can't You Please Tell Me Why The Leaves of My Plant Are Turning Yellow & Haven't Bloom I'am Taking Care of Them Indoors. Thank You

hydrangea has yellow leaves

Yellow leaves on a hydrangea is usually Chlorosis. This can also result from a pH that is too high (soil is too alkaline), or it may actually be a lack of iron in the soil. Apply a chelated iron or iron sulphate to correct the situation. Ammonium sulphate fertilizer also helps to lower the pH and maintain the acidity of the soil. Apply about one half teaspoon each of iron sulphate and ammonium sulphate to one quart of water. Apply this to the plants about every two to three weeks. About every third fertilization use a complete houseplant fertilizer instead of the above combination.