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Growing Hydrangeas: Planting and Care

Mature white smooth hydrangeas growing along the north side of a house.
Image Credit:
Bonnie Watton
Botanical Name
Hydrangea spp.
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
8a
8b
9a
9b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Shade
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
6-10 feet
Spread
6-10 feet
Soil pH
Acidic
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
Blue
Green
Pink
Purple
Red
White
Special Features
Cut Flower
Long Blooming
Winter Interest
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Resilience
Clay Soil Tolerant
Salt Tolerant
Plant Type
Shrubs and Bushes
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

The best time to plant hydrangeas is spring or fall, when temperatures are mild and the soil is easier to keep evenly moist. Avoid planting during summer heat or when the ground is frozen.

Hydrangeas are fairly easy to grow once established, especially in the right spot. We’ll show you when, where, and how to plant them, how to care for them through the seasons, and what to know before you reach for the pruning shears.

Planting

When to Plant Hydrangeas

Timing matters because a new hydrangea needs a chance to settle in before the weather turns extreme.

SeasonWhen to Plant
SpringAfter the danger of frost has passed and before summer heat arrives.
FallEarly enough for roots to begin establishing before hard freezes.

Where I live in Maine, winters arrive early and stay long, so I almost always plant in spring. That gives a new shrub a full season to settle in before the cold returns. Gardeners in milder climates have more flexibility, and fall can be an excellent choice there.

If I have a choice, I’d rather plant a hydrangea on a cool day than during a spell of blazing heat. Newly planted shrubs need consistent moisture while they establish, and avoiding hot weather spares them some early stress.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

Choose a spot with moist, well-drained soil and the right amount of light for the type of hydrangea you’re growing. Morning sun and afternoon shade is a good starting point for many hydrangeas.

Bigleaf hydrangeas especially appreciate afternoon shade in hot climates, while panicle hydrangeas can take considerably more sun. Smooth hydrangeas, including the classic ‘Annabelle,’ do well in partial shade. Oakleaf hydrangeas also tolerate more sun than bigleaf types, though some afternoon protection is helpful in hotter climates. Climbing hydrangeas are among the more shade-tolerant types.

Avoid soggy spots where water collects, and protect bigleaf hydrangeas from hot, exposed sites. Too much shade can also reduce flowering in bigleaf hydrangeas, so aim for some direct morning light rather than deep shade all day.

I always check a hydrangea’s mature size before I dig. Some stay compact, while others can become very large shrubs—certain panicle hydrangeas can reach 10 feet or more in both height and width. It’s much easier to give one enough room from the start than to wrestle with it later.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

  1. Water the hydrangea before planting. Give the root ball a thorough drink while it’s still in the pot; a dry root ball can be difficult to rewet once it’s in the ground.
  2. Check the roots. Gently slide the hydrangea from its container. If roots are tightly circling the outside of the root ball, loosen them with your fingers or make a few shallow cuts so they can begin growing outward.
  3. Dig wide, not deep. Make the hole about as deep as the root ball and at least twice as wide. The loosened soil around the hole gives new roots somewhere easy to grow.
  4. Check the planting depth. Set the hydrangea in the hole with the top of the root ball level with the surrounding soil. Planting too deeply can cause problems later.
  5. Backfill with the soil you removed. Fill around the root ball with the native soil, gently firming it as you go. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and remove large air pockets.
  6. Finish with mulch. Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the root area to help conserve moisture and moderate soil temperature, but keep it away from the stems.

My tip: Before I start filling the hole, I step back and check the planting depth one more time. It’s much easier to raise a hydrangea now than after you’ve shoveled all that soil back in.

Hydrangea root ball with tightly circling roots held over a garden planting hole.
Loosen tightly circling roots before planting. Photo credit: Agnes Kantaruk

Growing

Watering Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas like consistent moisture, especially while they’re getting established, but they don’t want to sit in soggy soil.

  • Water deeply, then check the soil before watering again rather than following a rigid schedule.
  • Newly planted hydrangeas need more water than established shrubs, especially in hot, dry weather or sunnier spots.
  • Water at the base of the plant, ideally in the morning or late afternoon. A soaker hose or drip line helps keep the leaves dry.
  • Add mulch to help the soil stay evenly moist and buffer temperature swings.

I usually check the soil before reaching for the hose. Hydrangeas can wilt dramatically on a hot afternoon, but if the soil is still moist, more water isn’t always the answer.

Fertilizing

Hydrangeas growing well in reasonably fertile soil may need little or no fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can give you a beautiful crop of leaves—and disappointingly few flowers.

  • Weak growth isn’t always hunger. Poor drainage, dryness, or the wrong soil pH are all possible reasons. Start with a soil test if you’re unsure what the soil needs.
  • If fertilizer is needed, use a balanced, slow-release product in spring as new growth begins, following the label rate.
  • Don’t overdo it. More fertilizer does not mean more blooms.

I tend to leave a healthy, blooming hydrangea alone. If it’s growing well, I’d rather not feed it just because the calendar says I should.

What about blue and pink hydrangeas? Some bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas change flower color depending on how acidic or alkaline the soil is. If you want to influence the color, test the soil first and adjust it gradually rather than simply adding more fertilizer.

Pruning Hydrangeas

I don’t prune a hydrangea until I know which type I’m dealing with. Cutting some hydrangeas at the wrong time can mean cutting off next year’s flower buds.

  • Bigleaf, oakleaf, and mountain hydrangeas generally bloom on old wood—stems that grew the previous year. If they need pruning, do it in summer, soon after flowering, before they begin forming next year’s flower buds.
  • Panicle and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood and can be pruned in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins.
  • Some newer reblooming bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas flower on both old and new growth, so their pruning needs are more flexible.

 For pruning times by type, refer to the Almanac’s complete Hydrangea Pruning Guide and Chart.

Gardener pruning woody hydrangea stems with hand pruners.
Pruning time depends on the hydrangea type. Identify yours before you cut. Credit: Igor Paszkiewicz

Seasonal Care

  • Summer: During hot, dry spells, keep the root zone evenly moist and maintain a layer of mulch. Bigleaf hydrangeas are especially prone to heat and drought stress; panicle and oakleaf types generally handle heat better.
  • Winter: In cold climates, protect the root zone with mulch after the soil cools. Bigleaf hydrangeas may need extra protection in exposed locations because their flower buds can be damaged by severe cold or late freezes.

I usually leave the faded flower heads in place for winter—they add some interest to an otherwise sleepy garden, and there’s no rush to reach for the pruners.

Harvesting

When to Cut

For bouquets, wait until the flowers are fully open and beginning to mature; older blooms generally last longer after cutting. Cut in the morning. For dried flowers, wait until the blooms feel slightly papery.

How to Cut

Cut stems with clean pruners, remove leaves that would sit below the water line, and place the stems in water right away.

Drying

Hydrangeas are especially good dried. Stand the stems in a vase with a few inches of water and let the water gradually evaporate, or hang them upside down in a warm, dry place out of direct sun.

Pests and Problems

Common Problems

  • Few or no flowers: The most common culprits are pruning at the wrong time, winter damage to flower buds, too much shade, or too much nitrogen fertilizer.
  • Wilted leaves: Check the soil before watering. Dry soil means the plant needs a drink, but hydrangeas can also droop temporarily during the hottest part of the day even when the soil is moist. If wilting continues even when the soil is moist, check for poor drainage or root trouble.
  • Brown, crispy leaf edges: Heat, drought, or too much intense sun can scorch hydrangeas, especially bigleaf types. Too much water can cause it too. Keep the soil evenly moist and provide afternoon shade where summers are hot.

Common Pests

  • Curled or distorted new leaves with sticky residue: Look for aphids on tender growth. A strong spray of water can knock off small infestations; use insecticidal soap if they persist.
  • Yellow or bronzed speckles with fine webbing: Suspect spider mites, especially during hot, dry weather. Spray them off with water; insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can help with heavier infestations.

Plant Diseases

  • Purple or brown spots on leaves: Leaf spot diseases such as Cercospora are common. Remove fallen infected leaves and water at the base of the plant to keep foliage dry.
  • White, powdery coating on leaves: Powdery mildew is more likely where plants are shaded or crowded. Improve air circulation and remove badly affected leaves.

Types

Hydrangeas come in several main groups. Knowing which type you have helps you understand how much sun it can take, how large it may grow, and how to care for it.

  • Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) are the classic pink, blue, or purple hydrangeas with rounded mophead or flatter lacecap flower heads. They prefer some afternoon shade, especially in hot climates.
  • Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) have cone-shaped flowers and tolerate more sun and cold than most hydrangeas. Some grow into very large shrubs or small trees.
  • Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens), including the familiar ‘Annabelle,’ have rounded white or pink flower heads and are hardy, reliable bloomers.
  • Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) have cone-shaped blooms and distinctive oak-like leaves that often turn red or burgundy in fall. They handle heat better than bigleaf types.
  • Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata) are smaller, more compact shrubs, often with delicate lacecap flowers. They appreciate protection from intense sun and wind.
  • Climbing hydrangeas (H. petiolaris) are woody vines rather than shrubs. They tolerate considerable shade and need a sturdy wall, fence, or other support to climb.

Want help choosing one? See our guide to the best hydrangea types and varieties, with photos and recommended varieties for different gardens.

Wit and Wisdom

  • The name “hydrangea” comes from the Greek words hydor, meaning “water,” and angeion, meaning “vessel,” a reference to the plant’s cup-shaped seed capsules.
  • In Victorian flower language, hydrangeas could symbolize gratitude for being understood—or, rather less warmly, frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.
  • The oakleaf hydrangea is the state wildflower of Alabama.

Shrubs and Trees
Sources
  1. Oregon State Extension — Hydrangea Location and Planting
  2. Clemson Home and Garden Information Center — Hydrangea Care and Planting Tips
  3. University of Minnesota Extension — Pruning Hydrangeas
  4. University of Maryland — Watering Treees and Shubs
  5. UConn Home & Garden Education Center — Fall Planting

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Lois Ward</span> Fri, 08/14/2020 - 07:34
I have have a hydrangea plant that I suspect is a Nikko Blue Hydrangea by your description. It has beautiful huge flowers that are blue in color but are covered by huge leaves every year so you can't see the flowers unless you are right on top of the plant looking down. Would it hurt the plant if I cut back some of the leaves to expose the flowers? The plant is extremely healthy! I have another hydrangea plant that is covered with pink and blue blooms that everyone can see. These flowers are smaller than the other plant (but still large flowers) and is gorgeous but different variety than the one with the big leaves that hides the flowers. I hope you have a solution for me, I would love to have those huge flowers exposed for people to see. Thanks for any feedback, it would be greatly appreciated!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 08/25/2020 - 13:18

Removing a few selected leaves won't hurt a healthy plant. Feel free to prune off a couple leaves to expose the flowers—just don't go overboard!

 <span>Sheron Tygret</span> Wed, 08/05/2020 - 12:15
I have a mophead hydrangea given to me in a pot for Mother's Day. There is healthy green growth emerging from the stems, but the original leaves have turned brown around their edges. Is it ok to just snip off the old leaves, or would this do harm to the plant?
<span>Cassandra</span> Sun, 07/12/2020 - 12:12
I have a relatively new hydrangea. Not sure which species, but it has spots on it or is being made something's dinner. I can try to do a picture if needed.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 07/17/2020 - 11:45

Take a couple of leaves to a local nursery and see if they can identify the problem. (We can not accept images here.)

 <span>Linda</span> Sat, 07/11/2020 - 16:56
My hydrangia hasn’t bloomed in 5 yrs. I’ve watered it, fertilized it, taken off old brown stems, Left them there. someone told me never to take those off, the new bud is in there ???? I gotten advise to cut them down to 3” above the ground in the fall. Never did that. I’ve covered it with straw in the winter. We live in S/W PA. Help.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 07/17/2020 - 11:56

There are numerous reasons why your plant might not be blooming. One that you have not mentioned: does it prefer sun? If so, is it now in shade (do to overgrowth, nearby construction, or taller new plantings casting shade)? Or vice versa? 
We often recommend that folks contact their local cooperative extension and yours--- Penn State---has a page on exactly this problem: https://extension.psu.edu/why-doesnt-my-hydrangea-bloom Master gardeners who serve in the coop extension usually welcome questions; you can probably reach out to this office.

We hope this helps!

 <span>Bob</span> Wed, 07/01/2020 - 20:32
Our bush has grown to about 4&1/2 feet tall and has lush leaves BUT only 1 blossom. Last couple of years we were awash in flowers from this plant. Why would we have so few blooms this year. It gets morning sun and enough water.
<span>Harvey</span> Mon, 06/22/2020 - 13:14
Received a white snowball hydrangea for Mothers Day in gallon pot leaving it outside on patio. Now leaves are turning brown and curling up as well the blooms are turning brown. What should I be Doing?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/23/2020 - 15:51

You should be reading the plant tag. Does the container indicate the source or plant "brand" (the wholesaler who potted and nurtured it)? If so, Google to see what it says about care. Or just Google "snowball hydrangea." There are many hydrangea varieties and each has specific needs. Does the plant tag say it likes sun or shade? Did you water it? Gift plants are usually forced to flower...and once gifted left to fend for themselves. Do this and let us know what happens.