Growing Hydrangeas

How to Plant, Grow, and Prune Hydrangeas

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With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm in summertime that’s hard to resist. While these flowering shrubs are low-maintenance, proper care will keep them blooming. Our Hydrangea Guide provides summer plant care tips for all you need to know about growing hydrangeas—from watering to fertilizing to pruning to winter care.

About Hydrangeas

Unrivaled in the shrub world for beautiful flowers, these elegant plants are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce abundant blooms. Colors beguile with clear blue, vibrant pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!

Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers. Varieties abound (every year, it seems, breeders present us with more options!), and gardeners’ expectations of bloom size and color are boundless. To know how your hydrangea will grow, pay attention to the types, defined below. When you know what to expect, delights will be magnified.

Enjoy this ode to the beautiful of hydrangeas and learn how to grow hydrangeas in our guide below.

Planting

When to Plant Hydrangeas

Plant in spring after the last spring frost or in fall before the first fall frost. See local frost dates.
Plant before the heat of summer arrives.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

Most hydrangeas will thrive in fertile, well-draining soils that receive plenty of moisture. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
Generally, hydrangeas prefer partial sun. Ideally, they will be given full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade to protect from the hot midday sun. This is especially true for the Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla), which is prone to wilting. Some varieties are more tolerant of full sun.
Space hydrangeas anywhere from 3 to 10 feet apart, depending on type.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly again.

Pink hydrangea flowers

How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings

Hydrangeas can easily be grown from cuttings. They root readily and the process makes for a great lesson in propagation. Here’s how to do it:

On a well-established hydrangea, find a branch that is new growth and that has not flowered. New growth will appear lighter in color than old growth, and the stem will not be as rigid.
From the tip of the branch, move 4 to 5 inches down and make a horizontal cut. Make sure that there are at least 3 to 4 pairs of leaves on your cutting.
Remove the lowest pair of leaves from the cutting, trimming them flush to the stem. Roots grow more easily from these leaf nodes, so if you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Be sure to keep at least 2 pairs of leaves at the tip end of the cutting, though.
If the remaining leaves are quite large, cut them in half, removing the tip-half. This prevents the leaves from hitting the sides of the plastic bag you will place over the cutting later on (to keep the humidity up).
(Optional) Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone and an anti-fungal powder for plants (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will encourage rooting and discourage rotting.
Prepare a small pot and fill it with moistened potting mix. Plant the cutting in the soil, sinking it down to the first pair of remaining leaves. Water lightly to get rid of any air gaps around the stem.
Cover the entire pot loosely with a plastic bag. Make sure the bag isn’t touching the leaves of the cutting, otherwise the leaves can rot. (Chopsticks or something similar can be used to prop up the bag and keep it off the leaves.)
Place the pot in a warm area that’s sheltered from direct sunlight and wind.
Check on your cutting every few days to make sure that it isn’t rotting and only water again once the top layer of soil is dry. With luck, the cutting should root in a few weeks! (Check by gently pulling on the cutting; if you feel resistance, roots have formed.)

Care

Hydrangea Care

Watering

For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water.
Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. It’s better to deeply water 3 times a week than sprinkle water in a shallow manner. This encourages root growth.
Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture.
Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry, and flowering will be hampered by a lack of water.
Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves.
It’s best to water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.

Fertilizing

If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.

Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.

Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May and June.
Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.

Winter protection

In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)

How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers

It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.

It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.

Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.

See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.

Hydrangea colors

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.

Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.

Hydrangea Type	When to Prune	Where Flowers Appear
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Oakleaf (H. quercifolia)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Panicle (H. paniculata)	Late winter, before spring growth	On new growth
Smooth (H. arborescens)	Late winter, before spring growth	On new growth
Mountain (H. serrata)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth
Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris)	Summer, after flowering	On old growth

Pruning Common Hydrangeas

The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)

Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).

Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.

Other Hydrangeas

Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).

Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.

Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.

Pests/Diseases

Protect against pests and disease by choosing resistant cultivars.

Powdery mildew, leaf spot, wilt, and bight can all appear on hydrangeas.
Pests are rare, but can appear when plants become stressed. Common pests include aphids and red spider mites.

Properly caring for hydrangeas is your best defense. (See above tips on watering and hydrangea care.)

Harvest/Storage

How to Cut and Store Dried Hydrangea Flowers

Use dried hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:

Cut the flower heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
Remove leaves from stems, and hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted fabric dye.

Bigleaf Hydrangea (mophead)

How to Use Hydrangeas in a Bouquet

Place the freshly cut hydrangea stems immediately into cold water to avoid wilting.
Recut the woody stems at a slant under water. Remove lower leaves on the stems.
Arrange the stems in a vase and place in a cool spot.
Check the water in the vase daily and mist the blooms with water.
Soak wilting blooms in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes to revive them.

Recommended Varieties

For a more detailed overview of the many types of hydrangeas, check out Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

There are two main groups of hydrangeas:

Group 1: Plants that Bloom on New Growth (This Year’s Stems)

The following hydrangeas, which form their buds in early summer on new growth, will flower reliably each year, requiring no special care.

Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)
- ‘Grandiflora’ is a big, old-fashioned, floppy variety, ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Moth’, and ‘Pee Wee’ fit the scale of small gardens. ‘Limelight’ produces cool-green flowers and grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet.
Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
- Look for the cultivars H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘Annabelle’, which produce many large (up to 14 inches across), tight, symmetrical blooms in late summer.

Bigleaf hydrangea lacecap
Image: Lacecap hydrangea

Group 2: Plants that Bloom on Old Growth (Last Year’s Stems)

If you live in Zone 8 or warmer, choose plants from this group. Gardeners in cool climate zones will find many of them a challenge, because they set flower buds in the fall. Although hardy to Zones 4 and 5, the buds are prone to damage by an early frost in fall, a late frost in spring, or excessively cold temperatures when dormant in winter. This, along with untimely pruning, can result in inconsistent flowering or no flowering at all.

Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- You can expect exceptional fall color from ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Snow Flake’, and ‘Alice’.
Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
- We love ‘All Summer Beauty’ (Mophead), which has profuse, dark blue flowers—turning more pink in soils with near neutral pH. If its buds are winter-killed, the plant will form new ones in spring and still bloom.
- ‘Nikko Blue’ (Mophead) is vigorous, with large, rounded, blue flowers.
- ‘Blue Wave’ (Lacecap) produces rich blue to mauve or lilac-blue to pink flowers.
- ‘Color Fantasy’ (Mophead) has reddish or deep purple flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. It grows to about 3 feet tall.
Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata)
- Examples are ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’. In acidic soil, ‘Preziosa’ produces blossoms of an extraordinary blend of pale shades of blue, mauve, violet, and green.
Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala ssp. Petiolaris)
- ‘Firefly’ is a newly-patented variety exhibiting variegated foliage.

For more about hydrangea varieties, see Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

Wit & Wisdom

The word “hydrangea” is derived from Greek hydor meaning “water” and angeion meaning “vessel,” referring to the plant’s seed pods, which look like small water jugs.
In the language of flowers, hydrangeas symbolize gratitude for being understood, or frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.

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Reader Comments

drawf Hydrangea

planted dead stick 2 years ago, now have one 10" tall with 4" pink bloom.. we love it, but can't find instructions on how to splice for a new plant.. we would love to have more, but none of the nursery's here carry any that small.. Does anyone know what we have to do to get new plants??? help..

hydrangeas

I've had one for three years and it's only 3 inches tall. HELP.

Stunted Hydrangea

I suspect you have a “gift” hydrangea–one that was purchased in a grocery store (or someplace other than a nursery) and came in a foil-wrapped pot. If so, know that they are greenhouse-grown and fed a diet meant for them to be big and showy for purchase–often to the detriment of the plants’ long-term health. It is rare that they thrive when transplanted into the landscape. Consider replacing it with a nursery-grown hydrangea that is already a few years old.

Florist hydrangea

I have a florist hydrangea that was given to me by a garden center right after Mother's Day about 12 years ago. I planted it and after moving it 3 times,it finally found it's home in a natural area that only gets about 3 hours of morning sun. It has lived in this spot for 9 years now and has lovely blue blooms every year.It's a rather compact bush growing only about 3 to 3 1/2 feet. This is a tough little bush!

Struggling hydrangeas

We bought Endless Summer hydrangeas last year and planted them mid summer. We live in central Indiana. Two are planted on the south side of our house and so they get full sun. The other two are on the west side for the house, so they get full sun but a little less than the others. Only one on the west side of the house is doing ok, meaning it normally looks alright and there are about 3 or 4 blooms produced this year. The other on the west side is tiny, just one little leaf popped up and isn't doing anything. The two on the south side of the house have brown spots, have not bloomed, are really small and struggling. What can I do to improve these plants? I'm planning on adding mulch soon to retain moisture. I have started to water them a few times a week. Any assistance would be greatly accepted and appreciated. Thank you!

Hydrangeas in sun

Hydrangeas much prefer shady conditions. If there is any way you can move them to a darker location come fall, that would likely make a big difference in their overall health and blooming potential.

Hydrangeas

Earlier in thread, you said they like morning sun, partial shade in afternoon. I have that perfect place I want to plant them. Later you said they prefer shade. Well?

how can you change color to

how can you change color to purple

how to change hydrangeas to blue

Acidic soils cause hydrangeas to bloom blue (soil pH below 5.5). You can apply aluminum sulfate or sulfur to lower soil pH (broadcast half a cup of wettable sulfur per 10 square feet and water in). To gradually change flower color from pink to blue, broadcast half a cup of wettable sulfur per 10 square feet and water it in.

It’s even better if you can drench the soil. For example, dissolve one tablespoon of aluminum sulfate in one gallon of water, and then drench the soil around the plant in the spring. (Avoid the leaves, and get at soil level).

Hydrangea Leaves Turning Orange

We put in four very nice dwarf Hydrangea bushes in 2011 and they have done very well until this when three had mostly orange leaves. We've had a normal growing season in western North Carolina and all our other plants have done well. What happen and how do I correct this problem?

Orange Hydrangeas?

We planted four dwarf Hydrangea bushes in 2011 and they have done very well until this year when three of them now have mostly orange leaves. We've a good growing season in western North Carolina and all our other plants are very healthy. What has happed to these plants and what can I do about it.

Hydrangea

I pruned my hydrangeas improperly last year and while the plant thrived and grew, I had no blossoms. This year I allowed the dead wood to remain all winter and in early spring I had new green leaves in the old wood stems. Then, suddenly the new green shoots died and dried up. I pruned the wood back to the base at that time, the plant is now thriving well but I have no blossoms again. I wonder why the new green died so suddenly. Help!

No Blooms

It is hard to say why the new stems died off, perhaps they were bitten by a cold snap while they were still tender. However, it is likely you don’t have blooms because you cut the old wood back to the base–those were the branches that would have produced blooms. You want to keep year-old wood for a few seasons before removing it. The new growth, as it ages, will take its place. That is how you keep hydrangeas blooming–they should always have a mix of older branches and first-year growth.

sick hydrangea

Please could you advise on what might be wrong with two hydrangeas which are currently in a pot (each). They are wilting and the leaves dying. I would be most grateful for any assistance.

Sick Hydrangea

It is hard to say for sure, but you might be over watering (wilting and drooping foliage is often a symptom). Providing good drainage is key to growing hydrangea in pots.

blooms

My hydrangea is new this year. There are buds-blossoms ready to open, but only a few on each head have opened. What do I do?

Closed Hydrangea Buds

Fertilizer might be the ticket. Try getting it on a bi-weekly schedule to see if you can encourage those buds to open.

Advise

How do I prune my shrub of hydrangea // Bottom large leaves now get brown // Shrub grow taller each day // Blooming ended // Please reply //

How to Prune Hydrangeas

Take a look at our advice for pruning hydrangeas. The method for pruning depends on what kind of shrub you have.

Hydrangea

I have 3 hydrangea plants, I thought the first one survived our winter snow. I cut the dead part of it and cut it down and saw the branches were still alive (green). I have not yet seen any new growth or new leaves. This plant was bought last summer.
Early this summer, my new plants (2) apparently dried up (I had done away for several days), so I cut off the dead parts of these plants. Will any of these revive and show some life again? Discouraged.

Pruning Hydrangea

Take a look at our advice for pruning hydrangeas. The method for pruning depends on what kind of shrub you have. It may be that by cutting off year-old wood you have removed the branches that would have bloomed. This is the most common reason a hydrangea fails to flower Water them well and regularly since you say they are dry, but don’t do anymore pruning. Let them grow for the next two seasons to get established.

Hydrangea

I planted my hydrangea and the new growth leaves are turning silver. Someone said if it's hothouse grown it will do that and it dies because it's meant to be inside.
Should I unplant and repot for indoors only?

Hot House Hydrangea

Hydrangeas that were grown in a greenhouse to be sold in grocery stores as gifts have been bred to produce big blooms quickly, functioning as one-time showy ornamentals. They are rarely hardy enough to make it outdoors.

old dried out hydrangeas plants

can I get some of my dried out hydrangeas plants healthy again if I cut them down to the base? or are they a loss cause?

Dried out hydrangea

If you still see green foliage, it is not a lost cause. Prune off stems and foliage that are clearly dead or dying. Set up a hose at the shrub’s drip line and turn it on to a low trickle. Let it run for a few hours so the plant gets a nice deep drink. Move the hose a few times so you are targeting the whole root zone. Be sure, too, your plant isn’t sited in direct sun. Hydrangeas prefer partial shade.

Hydrangea

I have a macrophylla hydrangea it has been in the garden three years now and only bloomed the first year and the flowers were very small the last two years nothing, I gave it bone meal last year as told by the garden centre it would help to bloom this year but to no avail any information would be gratefully received
Many thanks Linda

Hydrangea Blooms

The most common reason people don’t get blooms has to do with improper pruning. There are two types of hydrangeas: those that bloom on new wood and those that bloom on old wood, and knowing what you have dictates how to prune it. Many people inadvertently cut off the branches that would have produced flowers. (Macrophylla hydrangea blooms on old wood.)

Transplanting Hydrangea

1. When is the best time to transplant them?
2. Any special conditioning?
3. Do they produce seeds so they can be reproduce?

Hydrangeas won't bloom!!

Please tell me what I need to do to make my 3 year old plant bloom!

My hydrangeas quit blooming

after a few yrs my plants quit blooming I get maybe one or two blooms each year. very frustrating.