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How to Grow Lavender: Planting, Care, and Uses for This Fragrant Herb

Lavender plant close up in a field against a blue sky background.
Image Credit:
Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Lavandula angustifolia
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
8a
8b
9a
9b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Low
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Soil pH
Alkaline
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Blue
Pink
Purple
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Cut Flower
Erosion Control
Fragrant
Long Blooming
Low Maintenance
Winter Interest
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Hummingbirds
Attracts Pollinators
Deer-resistant
Rabbit-resistant
Resilience
Drought-Tolerant
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Herbs
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Lavender adds aroma and soft beauty to the garden—plus, this herb attracts beautiful pollinators! 

Learn how to plant, grow, and harvest lavender. We’ll also discuss which varieties are edible and how to propagate lavender.

The commonly cultivated lavender is the common or English lavender Lavandula angustifolia (formerly L. officinalis), which is hardy to USDA Zone 5. A bushy perennial, lavender grows from 1 to 3 feet tall, bearing small blue-violet flowers on spikes with blue-green, needle-like foliage. The oils in the flowers give the herb its distinctive balsam-like fragrance.

Buy Seeds Now

Called “English” lavender because it proliferates in the English climate, this plant’s main requirements are lots of sun and good drainage. It is not fussy about soil, and its presence lures bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to the garden. Plant lavender along a walkway or near a seating area.

Planting

As suggested above, lavender thrives in most soil qualities, from poor to moderately fertile. Lavender makes only one demand for the soil: It must drain well. Standing water and wet areas could encourage root rot. Amend compacted or clay soil with compost or aged manure to improve drainage. Plant lavender in a spot with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day (“full sun”). 

When to Plant Lavender

  • Lavender is best planted as a young plant starting in the spring after the soil has warmed up to at least 60°F (15°C) and the threat of frost has passed.
  • If planting in the fall, choose larger, more established plants to ensure their survival through the winter.

How to Plant Lavender

  • Lavender is challenging to grow from seed; we recommend purchasing small starter plants from a garden nursery or taking a softwood cutting from an existing plant. Seeds may take up to 3 months to germinate, and seedlings must be overwintered indoors in cool climates.
  • Plant lavender 2 to 3 feet apart. Plants typically reach between 1 and 3 feet in height.
  • Add mulch (rock or pea gravel work particularly well) to keep weeds minimal. Keep the mulch away from the crown of the lavender plant, however, to prevent excess moisture and root rot.

Check out this video to learn how to plant lavender:

Growing

How to Care for Lavender

  • Water once or twice a week after planting until plants are established. Water mature plants every 2 to 3 weeks until buds form, then once or twice weekly until harvest. (Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering.)
  • In colder growing areas, plants may need extra winter protection. Cover the plants with a winter mulch of evergreen boughs or straw, insulating them from freezing winds and temperatures. Read more about winter care of lavender plants.
    • Another option for cold areas is to grow lavender in a pot, keeping it outdoors in the summer and indoors in winter. While indoors, place the pot in a south-facing window with as much light as possible—water sparingly, as the plant will be dormant at this time.
girl in a lavender garden on a pathway

Pruning Lavender

In cooler climates: Prune established plants in spring when green leaves start to emerge from the base. Remove about one-third of the top to keep the plant from becoming leggy and bare at the base, but do not cut back into old wood, as it will not regrow.

In warm climates: All pruning can be carried out in autumn.

The flowering stems can be harvested while in bloom or snipped off after the flowers fade to keep the plant tidy.

Harvesting

How to Grow New Lavender from Cuttings

  • Cut following the plant’s bloom. Choose side shoots for cuttings that have no buds.
  • Cut very low near the root, getting several inches of stem. Gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Remove foliage on the bottom 2 inches of the stem.
  • Fill a small pot (4 inches or so) with potting mix. Optional: Dip each cutting in the rooting hormone first.
  • Insert bare stem into potting soil. Firm the soil and water in. Cover the whole pot with clear plastic or a polythene bag to create humidity. Place pots in a warm, shaded area.
  • Allow about 3 weeks for roots to appear. (If you tug gently, the root shouldn’t move.) Then, remove the bag.
  • Water when soil is dry an inch down; feed with 1/4-strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week.
  • After a few weeks, transplant it into a larger pot.

harvested lavender in a wooden crate

Harvesting Lavender Flowers

Lavender is a wonderful herb for drying. Here’s how to harvest it:

  • Harvest in the morning hours when the oils are the most concentrated.
  • Snip off stems when about half of the flower buds have opened, cutting the stems as long as possible.
  • Gather them into bundles and secure them with rubber bands.
  • Dry the bundles of lavender by hanging them in a sheltered, cool, dark place with good air circulation.
  • After a few weeks, the flowers will have dried fully and can be shaken gently from the stems into a lidded jar. Store the flowers in a cool, dark place.

Use your dried lavender to make lavender sachets—a lovely gift. Lavender sachets can help to keep your sheets or towels smelling sweet, repel moths and insects, and even promote a restful night’s sleep. 

Storing Lavender

Store lavender flowers in a lidded jar somewhere cool and dark, or pop them straight into a sachet to keep towels, sheets, or clothes smelling sweet and to repel moths. If you suffer from insomnia, try inserting the sachets into a pillow so the calming scent can help you drift off to a restful slumber.

Pests and Problems

Lavender Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers; leaf drop; sticky “honeydew” (excretion) on leaves; sooty, black moldKnock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; inspect new plants carefully; use slow-release fertilizers; avoid excess nitrogen; encourage lacewings, lady beetles/bugs, spiders
Fusarium wiltFungusPlants wilt (sometimes one-sided) in daytime; later, entire plant wilts/dies; stunting; yellow leaves; poor flowering; roots rot; stem cross-section reveals brown discolorationDestroy infected plants/ roots/surrounding soil (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties; avoid excess nitrogen; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; weed; 3- to 5-year rotation
Leaf spot (bacterial)BacteriaVaries; water-soaked rust/black leaf spots between veins later dry/fall out, leaving holes; leaves yellow/distort/wilt/die; stem cankersDestroy infected parts/severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; prevent plant stress/injury; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Phytophthora crown and root rotOomyceteLeaves discolor/wilt; die back; oozing cankers near base; reddish brown discoloration of inner bark/wood; roots rot; plants slow-growing/ stunted/dieDestroy infected plants/surrounding soil (do not compost); prune out branch cankers; for woody plants, remove soil near infected crown to dry tissue/replace afterward; remove plant debris regularly; resistant varieties; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Pythium root and stem rotOomycetePlants stunted/yellow/may wilt in day but recover at night/die; die back; stem bases brown/blacken; crown rot; root tips die; outer root tissue easily pulls offDestroy infected parts/plants/surrounding soil (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; solarize soil; avoid overhead watering; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Rhizoctonia root and stem rotFungusYellow/brown leaves; reddish brown lesions/sunken cankers on lower stem/roots; roots rot; plants wilt in day and recover at night/stunted/dieDestroy infected plants (do not compost); good air circulation; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage
Root-knot nematodesNematodeTypically, roots “knotty” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/ wilted/weakened; leaves and other parts may distort or die; poor floweringDestroy infested plant debris after flowering season, including roots (do not compost); disinfect tools; choose resistant varieties; solarize soil, if possible; plant French marigolds as a trap crop
ThripsInsectStunted plant growth; stippling; leaf dropKnock off with water spray; use sticky traps; shake foliage/flowers; clip off unopened/infested buds and shoot tips; submerge in mixture of 7 parts water to 1 part isopropyl alcohol and discard; plant resistant cultivars and those adapted to local conditions; water adequately, avoid excess nitrogen; deadhead flowers
VirusesVirusVaries; leaves with yellow/light green mottling or rings; distorted leaves/stems/flowers; flowers streaked; stuntingDestroy infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties/certified virus-free plants; control sap-sucking insects; weed
WhitefliesInsectAll stages suck sap on leaf undersides; leave sticky “honeydew” (excrement), sooty, black mold; yellow/silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit virusesRemove infested leaves/ plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; knock off leaf undersides with water spray in morning/evening; set yellow sticky traps; apply insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch

Types

  • English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), the most common, is hardy to USDA Zone 5. It’s edible and often blooms twice a season. Hundreds of varieties exist in many colors (blue-violet, pink, purple, and white) and sizes.
    • ‘Hidcote’: deep-purple flowers; silver-gray foliage; compact form
    • ‘Munstead’: violet-blue flowers; dark-green foliage; compact form
    • ‘Miss Katherine’: deep-pink flowers; aromatic foliage; mounding form
  • Lavandins (L. x intermedia)—a hybrid of English and Portuguese lavender (L. latifolia)—are generally larger plants that bloom only once yearly, later in the summer.
    • ‘Phenomenal’: vigorous variety highly tolerant of heat and humidity; resistant to common root and foliar diseases; long flower spikes
    • ‘Provence’: vigorous, long-stemmed variety; very fragrant
  • Spanish lavender (L. stoechas) and French (fringed) lavender (L. dentata) are typically only winter-hardy in Zones 7 to 9.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Ancient Egyptians used lavender in the embalming process. They wrapped the dead in shrouds that had been soaked in lavender water.
  • The Romans, all the way back in A.D. 77, are documented to have used lavender to repel insects and soothe insect bites. Add a lavender sachet to your towels, sheets, or clothes to repel moths.
  • Interestingly, the name lavender comes from the Latin root lavare, which means “to wash.” Lavender was used in baths to purify the body and spirit, and today, it’s often used in soaps and shampoos. 
  • The herb is also known for its calming effects. If you suffer from insomnia, try slipping a lavender sachet into your pillow. Lavender oil is used to naturally induce sleep.

Learn more about the health benefits of lavender!

Herbs

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Gloria Almen</span> Mon, 07/04/2022 - 14:30
Kate Leino, can you please share your Lavender shortbread cookie recipe? Sounds amazing (love the smell of lavender, and shortbread cookies are my favorite). Where do you recommend I buy Lavender powder (we live in Hawaii, and we don't grow lavender). Thank you! Gloria
<span>Georgia</span> Thu, 04/13/2023 - 17:30
There’s a botanical garden located in Maui that grows Lavender. You should go visit. It’s pretty! Hana Gardens Maui.
<span>Holly Durkin</span> Wed, 05/11/2022 - 09:59
Hello Kate, I am very interested in the Lavender shortbread recipe you recommended. Will you share? It would be delightful with afternoon tea.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 05/13/2022 - 14:50

We don't have a lavender shortbread recipe but as you mentioned tea, though we'd share our lavender scones recipe: https://www.almanac.com/recipe/lavender-scones Enjoy!

 <span>Anarkissed</span> Tue, 06/15/2021 - 20:11
I’ve had 26 English lavender plants at one point. For edibles I use lavender flowers when creaming butter for shortbread cookies, I e used the blooms in lemon muffins, or any muffins, really. Lavender blossoms are great to add to rice pudding, or when making sweet rice with raisins and apricots and slivered toasted almonds. Starting in May I keep a large jug of water in the fridge with lavender blooms, cucumber and lemon slices, and peppermint leaves. Kids love it! I also use lavender for teas and infusions. Black tea is great with lavender blossoms. I also make red clover infusion with lavender and sometimes I add rose petals too.
<span>Karen</span> Fri, 06/04/2021 - 14:10
I live in the Andes, about 5000 feet. Two seasons: ho damp and humid. Typically little to no watering for almost six months. Then hot and dry for a comparable time period. Nearly every day something needs watering. My lavender, with grey leaves, is going into it's 3rd dry season. It is huge, at least 3 x 3.5 ft. It is in a long concrete planter, at one end with a large shrimp plant at the other end. In between are rosemary, a geranium and a sage. The planter was originally filled with mostly raw compost and cedar bark on top. It gets watered when dry and fertilized with compost tea rarely. All of these plans are so healthy and gorgeous, but only the shrimp plant and geranium bloom. Oh and variety of trandescancia - green and cream- that must be hacked brutally twice a year. What are your thoughts of lack of bloom to date for the lavender.
<span>Carrie</span> Thu, 06/03/2021 - 09:46
We're subtropical zone 9S. Not infrequently these days, we can get 10 inches of rain in a weekend in spring/summer. I tried in a pot once, but it died.
<span>Chris</span> Sun, 05/30/2021 - 07:39
Lavender honey lattes have become popular around here. They’re delicious!! I’m going to have to try the lavender lemonade suggestion another commenter made too.
<span>Darlene</span> Mon, 08/10/2026 - 14:48
how do you make the lavender honey latte?
<span>Anne</span> Sat, 04/03/2021 - 10:58
Lavender is a wonderful addition to lemonade, or to lavender/lemonade ice pops or granita. It is also beautiful in French macarons, and of course one can add lavender to homemade soap or hand lotion.