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Botanical Name
Lavandula angustifolia
Grown as
Toxicity
Sun Exposure
Water Needs
Height
Spread
Soil pH
Bloom Time
Resilience
Plant Type
Growing
How to Care for Lavender
- Water once or twice a week after planting until plants are established. Water mature plants every 2 to 3 weeks until buds form, then once or twice weekly until harvest. (Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering.)
- In colder growing areas, plants may need extra winter protection. Cover the plants with a winter mulch of evergreen boughs or straw, insulating them from freezing winds and temperatures. Read more about winter care of lavender plants.
- Another option for cold areas is to grow lavender in a pot, keeping it outdoors in the summer and indoors in winter. While indoors, place the pot in a south-facing window with as much light as possible—water sparingly, as the plant will be dormant at this time.
Pruning Lavender
In cooler climates: Prune established plants in spring when green leaves start to emerge from the base. Remove about one-third of the top to keep the plant from becoming leggy and bare at the base, but do not cut back into old wood, as it will not regrow.
In warm climates: All pruning can be carried out in autumn.
The flowering stems can be harvested while in bloom or snipped off after the flowers fade to keep the plant tidy.
Harvesting
How to Grow New Lavender from Cuttings
- Cut following the plant’s bloom. Choose side shoots for cuttings that have no buds.
- Cut very low near the root, getting several inches of stem. Gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Remove foliage on the bottom 2 inches of the stem.
- Fill a small pot (4 inches or so) with potting mix. Optional: Dip each cutting in the rooting hormone first.
- Insert bare stem into potting soil. Firm the soil and water in. Cover the whole pot with clear plastic or a polythene bag to create humidity. Place pots in a warm, shaded area.
- Allow about 3 weeks for roots to appear. (If you tug gently, the root shouldn’t move.) Then, remove the bag.
- Water when soil is dry an inch down; feed with 1/4-strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week.
- After a few weeks, transplant it into a larger pot.
Harvesting Lavender Flowers
Lavender is a wonderful herb for drying. Here’s how to harvest it:
- Harvest in the morning hours when the oils are the most concentrated.
- Snip off stems when about half of the flower buds have opened, cutting the stems as long as possible.
- Gather them into bundles and secure them with rubber bands.
- Dry the bundles of lavender by hanging them in a sheltered, cool, dark place with good air circulation.
- After a few weeks, the flowers will have dried fully and can be shaken gently from the stems into a lidded jar. Store the flowers in a cool, dark place.
Use your dried lavender to make lavender sachets—a lovely gift. Lavender sachets can help to keep your sheets or towels smelling sweet, repel moths and insects, and even promote a restful night’s sleep.
Storing Lavender
Store lavender flowers in a lidded jar somewhere cool and dark, or pop them straight into a sachet to keep towels, sheets, or clothes smelling sweet and to repel moths. If you suffer from insomnia, try inserting the sachets into a pillow so the calming scent can help you drift off to a restful slumber.
Types
- English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), the most common, is hardy to USDA Zone 5. It’s edible and often blooms twice a season. Hundreds of varieties exist in many colors (blue-violet, pink, purple, and white) and sizes.
- ‘Hidcote’: deep-purple flowers; silver-gray foliage; compact form
- ‘Munstead’: violet-blue flowers; dark-green foliage; compact form
- ‘Miss Katherine’: deep-pink flowers; aromatic foliage; mounding form
- Lavandins (L. x intermedia)—a hybrid of English and Portuguese lavender (L. latifolia)—are generally larger plants that bloom only once yearly, later in the summer.
- ‘Phenomenal’: vigorous variety highly tolerant of heat and humidity; resistant to common root and foliar diseases; long flower spikes
- ‘Provence’: vigorous, long-stemmed variety; very fragrant
- Spanish lavender (L. stoechas) and French (fringed) lavender (L. dentata) are typically only winter-hardy in Zones 7 to 9.
More Like This
I live in zone 6b near Boston. I planted two small (maybe 4") lavenders in pots six weeks ago--one in plastic and one in a fabric grow bag. They came from a greenhouse at a good local nursery, but I put them in full sun gradually after I repotted them. The plants have room to grow in their pots. I amended the potting mix with coarse sand and compost, but no fertilizer because I was told not to for lavender. I top dressed with pea gravel. I've been deathly afraid of over watering and have been giving them small amounts of water when they were dry several inches down and the moisture meter said they were dry. I planted hidcote and munstead. Some of the larger leaves on the hidcote turned yellow with crispy browntips. The roots are fine. There's no fungus or rot and there's new growth near the crown. It's been boiling hot and very sunny here (90+). The soil pH is 7 and I don't think there's excessive nitrogen in the soil, which I read can also cause yellow leaves. I've been trying to figure this out for weeks, but everyone's advice is either incomplete or contradictory.
I thought they looked unhappy after heavy rain so I bring them inside and put them under a grow light if heavy rains are forecasted. I'm sorry to go into so much detail, but I've been going a bit mad trying to figure this out.
Do you think the yellow leaves and crunchy brown tips could be from the shallow watering and letting the soil get very dry? Yesterday I switched to deep watering until the water runs out the bottom and then wait under the top two inches are dry. They don't look thrilled today, slightly more yellow. Is there anything else I should/shouldn't do? Will they just be a little confused until I get them on a better regime of deep waterings and drying out, but not completely dry?
Thank you for reading this novella and any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
I planted one lavender plant weeks ago on my balcony where I grow many potted plants. I think it is a variety of english lavender. I see no sign of blooms or buds. What gives? Thanks.
Do deer avoid lavender plants?
While there's no plant that is off limits to deer, they do not like lavender as much as other plants. See more here: https://www.almanac.com/content/deer-resistant-plants
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