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Peace Lily Care Tips: How to Grow Spathiphyllum Plants

close up of a peace lily flower with greenery and foliage
Image Credit:
Georgina198/Getty Images
Botanical Name
Spathiphyllum spp.
Sun Exposure
Partial Sun
Shade
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Varies
Flower Color
Green
White
Plant Type
Houseplants
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Learn how to care for a peace lily, one of the most popular indoor plants. These beautiful houseplants are fairly easy to grow, but knowing how often to water peace lilies and what to do if their leaves droop or turn yellow is essential. Plus, find tips on how to repot your peace lily to keep it happy!

About Peace Lilies

Peace lilies are not true lilies. They are tropical, evergreen plants in the Arum family, native to tropical Central and South America. These plants thrive on the forest floor, receiving dappled sunlight and consistent moisture and humidity. Replicating these conditions in the home is the key to keeping your peace lily happy and healthy.

With enough light, peace lilies produce white to off-white flowers starting in the early summer and continue to bloom throughout the year in the right conditions. 

Most household varieties of peace lily grow up to 16 inches tall, but larger outdoor cultivars can reach up to 6 feet tall. Peace lilies are not cold-hardy, so they can only be grown outdoors in warm, humid climates (USDA Zones 10, 11).

Peace lily in a white pot
Photo by izzzy71/Getty Images

Planting

How to Plant Peace Lilies

Plant or replant your lilies in a container twice as large as the root ball (typically 6–12 inches in diameter) with well-draining, all-purpose potting soil. The soil should be able to hold moisture and dry out slowly over time (see how much soil you need to fill your pot!). Peace lilies don’t like to dry out entirely, but they also won’t do well if kept in soil that’s constantly wet, as this fosters root rot fungus.

Repotting the peace lily plant every few years in the spring is suitable for the peace lily, as it will appreciate the refreshed soil.

How to Repot a Peace Lily

Eventually, the peace lily may grow too large for its pot, at which point it can be divided. Remove the plant from its pot and split it into smaller plants, being sure to leave several leaves per clump. Peace lilies grow from rhizomes, so they can tolerate a bit of tough treatment during division.

Learn more about repotting houseplants.

How to Propagate a Peace Lily

Propagating a peace lily is a great way to expand your plant collection or share one with a friend. The easiest and most reliable method is division, since peace lilies grow in clumps that can be gently separated into new plants.

Start by removing the peace lily from its pot and gently loosening the soil around the roots. You’ll notice that the plant has several “crowns,” or clusters of leaves, each with its own root system. Identify a healthy section with at least a few leaves and strong roots. Using clean hands or a sharp, sanitized knife, carefully separate it from the main plant—trying to keep as many roots intact as possible.

Once separated, plant the division in a pot with fresh, well-draining potting mix. Water it thoroughly, then place it in a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil lightly moist (but not soggy) for the first few weeks to help the plant establish itself.

Peace lilies typically bounce back quickly after division, and within a few months, your new plant should be thriving. Propagating not only creates more plants but also helps keep older peace lilies healthy by reducing crowding in the pot.

Growing

Peace Lily Care

Perfect for busy plant parents, total beginners, or anyone whose home doesn’t get a ton of sunshine, Spathiphyllum plants are surprisingly easygoing. They don’t mind lower light, and if you forget to water them once in a while, they’ll usually forgive you. These plants look right at home in offices, apartments, or any cozy, shaded corner—bringing fresh green leaves and graceful white blooms without demanding much in return. Once you get the hang of peace lily care, you’ll find they’re the kind of plant that quietly gives back all year long.

Lighting

  • Place peace lilies in indirect but bright sunlight. An east-facing window is perfect, as the plant will be exposed to the bright morning sun. A north-facing window would also be a good choice for a peace lily.
  • Keep peace lilies out of areas where they’ll get direct sunlight all day (such as in a south-facing window), as it may dry them out too much.

Watering

  • The dryness of the soil is what counts. Keep the soil lightly moist to the touch but not overly saturated. Peace lilies can tolerate short periods of dry soil, but their leaves will develop brown tips if they don’t have enough water or humidity.
    • Tip: One nice thing about peace lilies is that they will tell you when they’re thirsty: the plant’s leaves start to droop. When the plant starts to look less “perky” than usual, test the soil with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water again. They can be a bit dramatic; don’t panic if they start to wilt.
  • Peace lilies are sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as fluoride, which may cause brown leaf tips. Use filtered, room-temperature water or distilled water if possible.
  • Learn more about watering houseplants.

Humidity

  • Peace lilies enjoy high humidity. Misting their leaves or placing their pot atop a moistened tray of gravel can help to increase humidity around the plant. 

Fertilizing

  • Peace lilies are not heavy feeders, so fertilize only occasionally. To encourage spring and summer growth, fertilize every 6 weeks or so with a balanced houseplant fertilizer starting in late winter.

Temperature

  • Peace lilies are tropical plants; they do best in temperatures between 65° and 75°F (18 to 23°C) during the day and about 10°F cooler at night.
  • Keep these plants away from the furnace or a drafty window or door.

Other Peace Lily Care Tips

  • The large leaves of peace lilies tend to collect a lot of dust in the home. Gently wipe them down with a wet paper towel occasionally; a thick layer of dust can inhibit photosynthesis.

Peace Lily plant and flower

How to Get Peace Lilies to Flower

  • Most often, if no flowers appear, the plant is not getting enough light. Peace lilies are very tolerant of low light, but “low light” doesn’t mean no light! To encourage flowering, move the plant to a brighter location where it will receive bright, indirect light for at least a few hours each day.
  • Green flowers, weak-looking flowers, or a general lack of flowers can also be caused by improper fertilizing. In the case of green flowers, cut back on fertilizing, as the plant may be getting too much nitrogen. In the case of weak-looking flowers or a lack of flowers, try switching to a fertilizer made for flowering plants. This type of fertilizer will have a higher amount of phosphorus, which plants need for blooming. 

Pests and Problems

  • Brown leaf tips are commonly caused by excessive direct sunlight, over-fertilization, lack of water, and/or low humidity. Keeping the plant on a tray of moistened gravel or misting the leaves can help to increase humidity.
  • Yellow leaves may be caused by overwatering, underwatering, or old age (of the leaf). If the oldest leaves are yellowing and the plant hasn’t been repotted in a while, it may just need more space to stretch its roots.
  • Scale insects and mealybugs will happily take up residence on the plant, if given the opportunity. A thorough wipe-down of leaves with a dish soap and water solution or insecticidal soap can be effective at stopping them, though repeated applications may be necessary. Learn more about how to get rid of scale insects and mealybugs.
  • Droopy or wilting leaves are often the result of too much water. Often, once per week is enough. When you water the plant, wait until the moisture comes out of the drainage holes, but never leave water sitting in the saucer or water the saucer, hoping the moisture moves up the plant. If the water drains too quickly through to the saucer, then your soil is too sandy; your soil needs to be well-draining and porous, containing peat moss, fine bark, or perlite.

FAQ

Is the Peace Lily Toxic to Cats and Dogs?

Yes, peace lilies are mildly toxic. All parts of the peace lily plant contain calcium oxalate, which may cause stomach and respiratory irritation if ingested in large amounts. Keep peace lilies out of reach of small children and pets who might chew on the plant. Common plants containing calcium oxalate also include philodendrons, daffodils, true lilies, and hyacinths.

Learn more about houseplants that are toxic to your pets.

Why is My Peace Lily Drooping?

Peace lilies are drama queens! When their leaves start drooping, it’s usually their way of saying, “Hey, I need something, fast!” The most common reason is thirst; peace lilies quickly wilt when the soil dries out, but they perk back up within hours after watering. Overwatering, however, can also cause drooping by suffocating roots. Other culprits include low humidity, too much direct sunlight, or root-bound conditions. Check the soil first: if it’s dry, give it a drink. If it’s soggy, let it dry out.

Can Peace Lilies be Grown in Water?

Yes, peace lilies can grow in water alone; they are often sold in vases without any soil. Ideally, the base of the plant should be suspended above the water line, either by a specially made vase insert or a layer of small river stones. This allows the roots to grow down into the water but keeps the base of the plant and its leaves from being constantly wet, which can cause rot. 

How Can I Revive a Peace Lily?

If your peace lily is drooping or looking sad, start by checking the soil. If it’s dry as a desert, give it a good soak and watch those leaves start to perk up in just a few hours. On the flip side, if the soil feels soggy or smells funky, you might be overwatering. In that case, carefully trim any mushy roots and repot your plant in fresh, well-draining soil. Find a nice bright spot with indirect light; too much sun can scorch those leaves. Don’t forget to remove any yellow or dead leaves to help your plant focus on new growth. Keep the air a bit humid if you can, and hold off on fertilizers until your peace lily looks healthier. With a little TLC and patience, your peace lily will bounce back and be the star of your indoor jungle again!

Types

Specialty varieties of peace lilies are not very easy to come by in most garden centers, though they have been growing in popularity. You may have more success ordering them from an online source. 

  • Spathiphyllum wallisii is a smaller peace lily, reaching only 12 inches tall.
  • ‘Petite’ is smaller still, at approximately 8–10 inches.
  • ‘Sensation’ is the largest variety available, capable of growing up to 4–6 feet in height and width.
  • ‘Domino’, is a medium-sized variety with attractively variegated leaves.
  • ‘Mojo Lime’, which has lime-green foliage, is another medium-sized peace lily.

Wit and Wisdom

  • The peace lily is said to have gotten its common name from its white flowers, which rise timidly above its green foliage and resemble white flags of peace.
  • Despite the peace lily’s common name, it is not related to true lilies at all.
  • The plant’s attractive blooms are also the source of its Latin name, Spathiphyllum, meaning “spathe-leaf.” The flowers consist of the spathe (the white, sheath-like leaf) and the spadix (the spike of small flowers located within the spathe).
Peace Lily flower
A peace lily’s flower consists of a spathe (white sheath) and a spadix (green or off-white spike of flowers). 
Photo by W. Carter/Wikimedia

Houseplant Guides

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 07/19/2016 - 13:49

The peace lily sometimes seems at war with its caretakers. You did the right thing by repotting it. In the case of this plant, our sources recommend keeping the soil damp (not soaking! avoid standing in water); this goes against your aunt's advice of letting it dry between waterings. (Truth be told, she may be right but our information says otherwise.) Keep it out of direct sunlight and cold drafts. Give it a general houseplant fertilizer monthly.

All that said, you also have to allow for its adjusting into the new plant pot. This can take some time (in fact, all plants need time to get comfortable when transplanted anywhere into anything).

With luck, your plant will recover. Give peace a chance.

 <span>Flesia Cornwell</span> Mon, 07/18/2016 - 11:43
I have apeace lily with a watering ball in it so i have reduces how offten i water the lily and now my leafs are truning yellow what am i doing wrong and why are the leafs truniing yellowplz help
<span>Ashley</span> Sat, 07/16/2016 - 09:46
My peace lily has several yellow leafs and all the white flowers are dead. How can I save it.
<span>Terrie M.</span> Thu, 11/10/2016 - 13:10
My new leaf on my Peace Lily is yellow. Should i cut it off? It has another bud that's come up on the same stalk.
<span>Peggy</span> Wed, 08/10/2016 - 10:51
Replanted now it has yellow leaves!! Help??
<span>Jason</span> Mon, 07/11/2016 - 11:39
I recently repotted my peace lily because it was not doing so well and I noticed that the plant above the dirt has broken away from the big bulb. There is a section of roots still on the plant and I have put them into the soil. The bulb is still in there also. Will this lily survive without being attached to the bulb? Will any more shoots come out of the bulb? Please help.
<span>Jason</span> Mon, 07/11/2016 - 17:00
I planted the roots beneath the soil. The plant is looking pretty bad. It is all yellow and shriveled. It's on life support. The bulb is viable, as in not shriveled or bad looking, but is about 2 inches below the surface of the soil. Can I replant the bulb and get a shoot to grow off of it? I have another pot I could put it in if it will grow. If so, how deep should I plant it, or should it be exposed at the surface? Thanks for all your help!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 07/11/2016 - 15:00

You did the right thing to get the roots buried beneath the soil. If the plant portion has roots, it could grow, though there is no guarantee. Take a look at the bulb to see if it is still viable. If shriveled and seemingly lifeless, discard it. Otherwise, keep up with general care and monitor...you have a little science experiment going!

 <span>Rebecca Mcclellan</span> Sat, 07/02/2016 - 18:08
One of my rose bushes got blackish spots on the leaves. I have tried some flowering plant spray tht is suppose to work to remedy this. It didn't and now I have 2 bushes with this same problem. These are climbers. 1 is lincoln & the other is called angel something. I was told tht once a plant gets this, it can't be cured. Wht 2 do?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 07/11/2016 - 14:52

Your roses have Black Spot--a tremendously difficult disease to treat. It won't kill the plant directly, but it can defoliate all the canes, which compromises the long-term health of the rose. To try to get it under control: Remove all leaves with black spots (even those with just a few) and get any fallen leaves out of the garden. Avoid overhead watering. Ensure a healthy root system with consistent applications of slow-release fertilizer. Continue to remove diseased foliage. When it comes times to overwinter the roses, make sure all canes are completely stripped of foliage, and heavily mulch the crown (be sure you are not mulching over diseased foliage). In the very early spring, after the threat of frost, prune very hard (keep 5 to 6 inches of cane--that's all that should remain. You want to start the season with entirely new growth until the Black Spot is knocked back). If those roses never perform well because they are compromised by the Black Spot, replace them with disease-resistant varieties.