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Ponytail Palm Care Guide: How to Grow This Easy, Long-Lived Houseplant

Poneytail palm indoors by a window. The Beaucarnea Recurvata, also known as Ponytail Palm, or Nolina is a houseplant with a swollen thick brown stem and the long narrow curly, green leaves flow up from this base.
Image Credit:
Renata.Ka/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Beaucarnea recurvata
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Soil pH
Neutral
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Plant Type
Houseplants
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Ponytail palms, or elephant foot palms, are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are straightforward to grow—provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.

About Ponytail Palms

Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true palm. In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).

The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed stump, which tapers off into a thinner stem. As the plant ages, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop from the top of the stem. Indoors, the leaves can reach up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.

In its native environment of eastern Mexico, the plant can reach up to 30 feet in height. However, ponytail palms grown in gardens as landscape plants typically don’t reach more than 10 feet tall. 

Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet. However, as Susan Mahr of the University of Wisconsin-Madison explains, “In containers, ponytail palms will grow slower than if in the ground, and the plants will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Moving your ponytail palm to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. They can be very long-lived and can easily outlive their owners. However, older plants may be difficult to manage because of sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.”

Care of this plant is simple; the most common difficulty is adapting your watering habits to its needs.

Planting

Choosing a Growing Medium and a Pot

  • Use a fast-draining potting mix, such as one for cactuses and succulents. If you already have potting mix, sand, and perlite on hand, you can create your own desert mixture using equal amounts of each
  • Select a pot with a hole in the bottom so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moisture for long.
  • Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the growing medium more quickly (a good thing for cactuses and succulents).

Growing

How to Care for Ponytail Palms

  • Ponytail palms prefer bright indirect light.
  • Keep growing medium fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two to dry out completely before rewatering. During the winter, water only occasionally.
  • To water, soak the potting mix and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.
  • Fertilize in the spring with a cactus/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.
  • Average room temperature is acceptable for most of the year, but to replicate the natural dormancy cycle, keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50°–55°F / 10°–13°C).
  • Don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night during winter, as freezing temperatures can severely damage it.

Repotting a Ponytail Palm

  • Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm needs.
  • Moving the plant to a larger pot will allow it to grow in height and girth. However, older plants may become challenging to manage due to their sheer size and weight if they are not kept at a smaller size.
  • When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the pot’s rim.
  • Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.

Harvesting

Propagation

  • Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a tiny baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply some rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root. 

Pests and Problems

  • Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.
  • Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves, but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.
  • Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of overfertilizing or underwatering, so adjust your practices appropriately. They can also indicate that the plant is getting too much direct light and not enough water.

Wit and Wisdom

  • The plant’s unusual shape and coloration have granted it another strange nickname—elephant’s foot palm.
  • Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach. 

Houseplant Guides

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 04/04/2018 - 12:37

Could the plant have been hit by a cold draft? Perhaps it's near a window? Sudden leaf-drop can be caused by cold damage. If that's not the case, the best you can do is keep it in a warm, partly-sunny place and let the soil dry out as usual. Let the top inch or two of soil dry out before watering again. Without its leaves, the plant can't get rid of excess water as easily, so be careful not to overwater. Avoid fertilizing until leaves appear again. If the trunk and roots aren't rotted, then the plant should recover.

 <span>Jenn</span> Sat, 09/08/2018 - 20:55
Just following up on my post. I left it as is, moved it into better light, and watered it very little but the leaves still haven't grown back. I repotted it, where I noticed the roots were in good condition, gave it some water, and then fertilized a month later but there's still nothing. The base got soft for a few weeks but seems to be returning to normal now. Do you have any more suggestions please? Thanks again.
<span>Stephen Davis</span> Sun, 03/25/2018 - 14:20
I had a friend with a large 4 trunk 15' high specimen that was moved to my backyard last year. It was blown over by Irma and we noticed the root zone was very soft and it progressively got worse till the next wind event broke off the trunks from the base. The upper plants are still green and the trunk is firm a foot or so up from where they broke off. Is it possible to stand up and plant these trunks together to save them?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 03/27/2018 - 12:41

Sorry to hear that your ponytail palm didn't survive the storm. Unfortunately, the bare trunks are very unlikely to grow roots if replanted. However, if the base survived (and is not totally destroyed by rot), then it may produce new growth if replanted in a drier area. 

 <span>Lu Jean Dengler</span> Sat, 03/24/2018 - 16:57
I have a large 30 year old plant. Height about 8', it also has a few shoots growing lower on the stalk. Question: This past winter in Texas we had some severe cold nights. The tip of my plant fronds fell off. The lower ones had some damage but are surviving. Do I cut back this tall stalk and hope it gets new growth? I worry about cutting 6' off. the stalk is firm and solid. Thanks!
<span>Frankie</span> Mon, 03/19/2018 - 19:15
Hello- I am so glad I found this page. I have always wanted a Pony Tail plant and bought one today at Sams Club...it came in a pot with rocks not dirt..and it is pretty much cemented in there....the instructions say to water once its dry an inch or so down....but it is in and cemented in the pot. Also,there is no hole to drain. I am kinda confused how to care for it? Any help would be so appreciated. TY Frankie
<span>Frankie</span> Tue, 03/20/2018 - 12:11
Thank you so much for getting back to me so fast. I appreciate you :)
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 03/20/2018 - 10:33

With the way your plant is currently potted, it sounds like it will be very difficult to know when and how much to water, which will surely end up stressing out both you and the plant. Really, it would be best to repot it entirely. Try carefully removing the rocks to see if there's any way you could get the plant out of the pot. If it's cemented to the bottom of the pot, perhaps you could carefully break the pot apart (assuming it's terracotta). Be careful not to snap the stem of the plant in the process. If you can manage to get the plant out, replant it with a succulent potting mix in a pot with a drainage hole and follow the care instructions outlined above.

If there's absolutely no way to get the plant out, you could create a makeshift dip-stick to tell you when there's no water left in the bottom of the pot. Assuming the rocks are fairly loose, take a straw and feed it down to the bottom of the pot, leaving a bit sticking up from the surface. To check the water level, take a piece of string and feed it through the straw to the bottom of the pot. If the string comes out bone-dry, it's time to water again. Be careful not to water too much at once, as you don't want the base of the plant to sit in water.

 <span>Larry Wilke</span> Wed, 03/14/2018 - 20:00
I have a ponytail palm i got from my mother when she passed and i promissed i would take care of it. This plant is 42 years old, everything was going good until i noticed the leaves are turning dark brown at the top where new groth is starting. It is not in direct light cuz there are heater vents by the windows and the plant will dry out so i try to getit as close to light as i ca n until i can turn off the heat.what can i do to save this beutiful plant? Pleas help.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 03/15/2018 - 11:22

Brown leaf tips are fairly normal for an indoor ponytail palm. They can be caused by over- or underwatering, so make sure that you are following the watering tips outlined above. Ponytail palms don't need much water, especially in the winter, and the soil should dry out almost completely between waterings. Once you've ensured that your watering habits are correct, consider the lighting. Dying leaves could also be caused by the lack of light—ponytail palms do need full sun. Setting up a supplementary indoor light using a full spectrum fluorescent or LED bulb may help keep it happy during the winter months. 

In any case, ponytail palms are hardy plants, so yours should bounce back when spring comes around and it can get more light.