For daily wit & wisdom, get the Almanac newsletter.

Ponytail Palm Care Guide: How to Grow This Easy, Long-Lived Houseplant

Poneytail palm indoors by a window. The Beaucarnea Recurvata, also known as Ponytail Palm, or Nolina is a houseplant with a swollen thick brown stem and the long narrow curly, green leaves flow up from this base.
Image Credit:
Renata.Ka/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Beaucarnea recurvata
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Soil pH
Neutral
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Plant Type
Houseplants
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Ponytail palms, or elephant foot palms, are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are straightforward to grow—provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.

About Ponytail Palms

Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true palm. In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).

The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed stump, which tapers off into a thinner stem. As the plant ages, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop from the top of the stem. Indoors, the leaves can reach up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.

In its native environment of eastern Mexico, the plant can reach up to 30 feet in height. However, ponytail palms grown in gardens as landscape plants typically don’t reach more than 10 feet tall. 

Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet. However, as Susan Mahr of the University of Wisconsin-Madison explains, “In containers, ponytail palms will grow slower than if in the ground, and the plants will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Moving your ponytail palm to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. They can be very long-lived and can easily outlive their owners. However, older plants may be difficult to manage because of sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.”

Care of this plant is simple; the most common difficulty is adapting your watering habits to its needs.

Planting

Choosing a Growing Medium and a Pot

  • Use a fast-draining potting mix, such as one for cactuses and succulents. If you already have potting mix, sand, and perlite on hand, you can create your own desert mixture using equal amounts of each
  • Select a pot with a hole in the bottom so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moisture for long.
  • Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the growing medium more quickly (a good thing for cactuses and succulents).

Growing

How to Care for Ponytail Palms

  • Ponytail palms prefer bright indirect light.
  • Keep growing medium fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two to dry out completely before rewatering. During the winter, water only occasionally.
  • To water, soak the potting mix and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.
  • Fertilize in the spring with a cactus/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.
  • Average room temperature is acceptable for most of the year, but to replicate the natural dormancy cycle, keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50°–55°F / 10°–13°C).
  • Don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night during winter, as freezing temperatures can severely damage it.

Repotting a Ponytail Palm

  • Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm needs.
  • Moving the plant to a larger pot will allow it to grow in height and girth. However, older plants may become challenging to manage due to their sheer size and weight if they are not kept at a smaller size.
  • When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the pot’s rim.
  • Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.

Harvesting

Propagation

  • Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a tiny baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply some rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root. 

Pests and Problems

  • Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.
  • Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves, but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.
  • Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of overfertilizing or underwatering, so adjust your practices appropriately. They can also indicate that the plant is getting too much direct light and not enough water.

Wit and Wisdom

  • The plant’s unusual shape and coloration have granted it another strange nickname—elephant’s foot palm.
  • Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach. 

Houseplant Guides

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

More Like This

Comments

<span>Joshua</span> Thu, 01/04/2018 - 18:41
I've had my ponutail palm succulent for about 2 years now it has 5 strong pulps growing right now and I've always noticed that the leaves that look the most out of shape or bent and unhealthy are either the oldest or lowest leaves on each pulp or in some cases a leaf growing from the backside of the pulp where with multiple pulps things tend to get crowded(competing for light can be tough on the inside). I made a decision on my own to pull the lower most leaves until the stalk was no thinner than the pulps base where it connects to the trunk.( Even if the leaf looks healthy but needed to be removed to get to the next one I removed it but sometimes i had to wait for new growth for an ugly leaf to be pushed down enough) The very base of the remaining leaves will be white! The next day I was blown away!!!! My palm had perked up so much the diameter of the whole plant increased 6-8 inches without a single drooping leaf!! it actually had some leaves sticking straight up almost 2 feet long!!! So By removing the lower messy growth the plant could focus more on supplying nutrients and water the very top of the pulps, within a few days i had a ton of new growth from the center of the pulps, the trunks of each pulp grew 1/2" taller. I do this as often as i need now and my palm couldn't be any more healthy looking here's my email if u would like to see pictures or need help maywreckyaday21 at icloud
<span>Debra Edwards</span> Sun, 11/06/2016 - 11:03
I have a 20 year old ponytail palm. We started going south for the winter 3mo. My question what should I do about the plant. Husband says it goes dormant but 3 mo of no water? Help
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 11/29/2016 - 13:53

Yes, the plants do go dormant in the winter, however they usually need water about once a month.  Water just enough moisture to prevent the roots from drying and dying, but never let the pots stand in water. You may need to have someone come by the house once a month or make other arrangements if you want the plant to live.

 <span>Robin</span> Tue, 10/11/2016 - 13:40
The fronds are turning brown. Any suggestions?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 10/11/2016 - 16:21

It's normal for leaves on the bottom of the plant to turn brown when new leaves grow from the center. Leaves also have a tendency to turn brown at the tips if the soil is too wet (or dry). Also, avoid excessive fertilizer or accumulated salts.

 <span>S Fox</span> Mon, 11/28/2016 - 11:11
Should I trim the tips of the leaves that have turned brown.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 11/29/2016 - 13:49

Yes, the dead parts can be trimmed off to improve the plant’s appearance.

 <span>Gina</span> Mon, 10/10/2016 - 18:18
I have 5 bulbs in one pot. Each is at least 2-2.5" wide, is this why the leaves don't grow up and out?
<span>Christine Eaglebear</span> Mon, 01/16/2017 - 10:38
I just bought a ponytail palm with v in the same pot I've had this plant before but it was an individual and it was bigger I'm wondering if later I can separate them into their own pots. I think they just need to grow a bit. I know they are slow-growing. A house sitter watching my house while on vacation over watered my plants and I couldn't bring it back it died it doesn't need very much water make sure the soil dries first before we watering and they should still grow in bunches I wish I could see a picture of what you have I wish I could send you what I have.
<span>Lili</span> Fri, 10/07/2016 - 17:37
I bought a Ponytail Palm from Lowes that is a ceramic planter covered with little stones - the label says there is soil underneath the little stones so to just water over them....I have beautiful green tendrils (leaves) but a skinny trunk, what should I do to maintain it that way? I mist the leaves each morning and use diluted neem oil as a preventative for mites....should I use the cloth with soap and water on the trunk? I put it outside in the sun in the afternoons, will it help maintain the beautiful foliage?