How old is the plant? If this is its first year (or first full year), it may be just getting settled. Rhubarb is a heavy feeder (likes composted, organic material) but could it be that you have too much of a good thing? Is there soil mixed in with the chicken pellets? If so, do you know the pH of the soil? If the pH is too low (limey/sour), the rhubarb will not thrive. We wouldn’t add any more fertilizer, certainly not liquid at this time. Remember, too, that its season is late spring, so it is past its prime for this year (being late July) and may be in its natural seasonal decline, in preparation for winter dormancy.

We would opt for autumn, Jenny, if you can keep the plants in relatively good condition. They may begin their seasonal decline into dormancy—that is, appear to fail to thrive—but should transplant successfully. (in advance of any problems, you might share your expectations with the company from which you purchased the plants…just in case you need/want a replacement.)

A rhubarb plant can flower for a few reasons–certain varieties flower more often, and the older the plant is, the more often it may flower. Flowering can also be a sign of stress, such as perhaps was the case when you had first planted it (I’m guessing the transplant was a relatively older plant, not a baby). Warm temperatures may also cause it to flower. Many gardeners prefer to remove the flower stalks as they appear so that the plant can focus on developing leaves and leaf stalks. The fact that your plant hasn’t flowered since planting may indicate that it is happy and healthy! As it gets older, you may see some flowers develop again.

The best time to plant rhubarb is in early spring or in the fall. They go dormant in the fall and through winter. See above for additional guidance.

Cut off the flower stalk—not the leaf stalks—at the base (don’t twist the flower stalk; instead, use a knife or pruning shears to make a clean cut on these tougher stalks). This way, the plant can focus its energy on forming leaf stalks (which might be useful to you now!). To help prevent bolting again this year, add mulch to keep roots cool during warm spells. Be sure that the plant is getting enough water, light, and nutrients, and isn’t overcrowded. Add lots of organic matter in fall. You should have many happy harvests in your future!

Because your rhubarb is in its third year, we’ll assume it’s not just a white variety. Perhaps your plant is getting too much sun. If the stalks are the right size for harvesting, try cutting off one to test, then take the rest if it seems ready. If not, let it mature a bit more.

Congratulations on keeping the rhubarb going in the garage. It must be in good soil in a good place. Thin stalks are typical of a first-year plant. As noted above, it is best not to harvest in the first year. You can repot it; this should not harm the plant. Set it in plenty of organic/composted matter and it should thrive. As for how much would you need for a pie, this one requires 2 ½ cups: https://www.almanac.com/recipe/strawberry-rhubarb-pie-coconut-crumb-topping

You can see more rhubarb recipes, using varying amounts, that might appeal to you, too: https://www.almanac.com/content/best-rhubarb-recipes

It’s natural for rhubarb to flower and go to seed. However, you can delay that stage a few ways: Grow Canada Red or Valentine varieties; they are less likely to bolt that “old-fashioned” varieties such as Victoria and MacDonald (these are heavy stalk producers). Older/more mature plants are more likely to bolt than younger ones, although dividing every 4 to 5 years, as it sounds like you did, can essentially rejuvenate mature plants. Applying fertilizer (a balanced type, e.g. 12-12-12) or well composted manure in spring can also delay/discourage bolting. If your plant volts/produces flowers, it is recommended that you remove them, so it will focus its energy on producing leaves.

We are not familiar with rhubarb compared with corn, but the stem and leaf tissue of rhubarb can be damaged by the European corn borer larvae, which as the name indicates is a pest of corn, both sweet and grain.

Hi, Candy. Some varieties of rhubarb are more prone to producing flowers than others. Do not worry about that. The holes, those you should worry about. If the holes are ragged and fairly big, check for a trail of slime–as slugs sometimes like to eat rhubarb leaves. Tiny to moderate holes in the leaves could be beetles, such as the Japanese beetle. Caterpillars, such as the European corn borer and imported cabbageworm, may sometimes attack leaves or stalks. Other pests, such as aphids or rhubarb curculio, make punctures rather than chewing holes. Look underneath the leaves, and at the base of plants in the soil, for any lurking pest. To learn about garden pests and diseases, check out this page.

You can definitely move the plants for a harvest next year, but rhubarb doesn’t grow well in the shade so you will not likely have a good crop this year.

Sounds like you hit the jackpot! If you have nice strong (celery-size) stalks, it’s ready to eat—but not the leaves; they are poisonous. Twist off the stalks at the root or use a knife to slice them off. Take as many as you like/need; it should continue to produce for a few weeks. Leave the smaller stalks…they’ll get bigger. Enjoy!

Is this an established plant, that had been producing fine but then started to be spindly? If so, it could be that the plant is now overcrowded–sometimes the crown needs dividing every 5 to 15 years, ideally in late winter/early spring or in fall when the plant is dormant. Or, if this is a new plant, does it have enough nutrients to establish itself? Avoid harvesting the first year, and only harvest lightly the second. After those years, only remove ⅓ to ½ of the plant, so that there are enough stalks remaining so that the leaves can make food for the plant to keep it healthy. Another problem that sometimes occurs is when the plant is set too deep (more than 1 or 2 inches), sometimes causing weak or delayed growth. You might also check for insects and disease, such as crown rot. Be sure that the plant has enough water (but soil is not waterlogged); if it is growing in part shade, the stems will be more spindly. Hope this helps!