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Planting and Growing Rhubarb

Botanical Name
Rheum rhabarbarum
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
3-6 feet
Spread
3-6 feet
Soil pH
Acidic
Neutral
Special Features
Cut Flower
Low Maintenance
Attracts Pollinators
Deer-resistant
Rabbit-resistant
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

What grows for 10 years or more, suffers from almost no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, cakes, jams, and sauces. Learn how to plant, grow, and pick rhubarb correctly.

Rhubarb is easy to grow but needs a dormancy period to thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF (4°C) in the winter and below 75ºF (24°C) in the summer.

What’s lovely about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: A healthy plant will remain productive for 10 years or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to plant it near their compost piles!

Planting

When to Plant Rhubarb

  • Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or early spring.
    • Plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy has set in in the fall, and you’ll have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
    • In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.

Spacing for Rhubarb

Where to Plant Rhubarb

Rhubarb grows best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded. 

How to Plant Rhubarb

  • Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center or nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimens or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
  • Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
  • Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
  • Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
  • Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant rhubarb:

Growing

Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them. 

  • Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
  • Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days.
  • Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.
  • Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
  • In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.

Rhubarb leaf

Harvesting

Do NOT harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.

  • After a plant’s third year, the harvest period (rhubarb season!) runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
  • Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; the plant’s food reserves are low.
  • Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
  • Always leave at least two stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for well over 10 years without replacing your rhubarb plants.
  • It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant became toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after midsummer (July), it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.

How to Store Rhubarb

Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Cut rhubarb stalks into pieces, place them in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put them in the freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.

Pests and Problems

Pests and diseases are rarely an issue with rhubarb, but it may be affected by the following problems.

Rhubarb Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Botrytis (gray mold)FungusVaries; yellow/ brown/gray spots with water-soaked margins on leaves/flowers; gray mold; buds remain closed; stem lesions; wilt/rot; scorched appearance (“fire”) in some plantsDestroy infected parts/severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; good air circulation/sunlight; avoid overhead watering; prevent plant stress/injury; weed; rotation
Fungal leaf spotFungusVaries; leaf spots on lower leaves enlarge and turn brown/black; fuzzy growth or pustules in lesions; disease progresses upward; leaves dieDestroy infected leaves/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties; good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Phytophthora crown and root rotOomyceteLeaves discolor/ wilt; dieback; oozing cankers near base; reddish brown discoloration of inner bark/wood; roots rot; plants slow-growing/stunted/dieDestroy infected plants and surrounding soil (do
not compost); prune out branch cankers; remove plant debris regularly; plant resistant varieties; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Rhubarb curculioInsectWeevil-like beetle that bores into stalks/crowns; notches on stalks/leaves; holes in stalks leak sap; plants wilt/decayHandpick adults (appear in mid-May); destroy nearby host plants (sunflowers, thistle, dock) in mid-summer (July)
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; young stems “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, in morning lift and dispose of pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container of 1/2 inch of beer or of sugar water and yeast sunk to ground level; apply 1-inch-wide strip of diatomaceous earth

Toxicity
The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.

Types

These common varieties have attractive red stalks and excellent growers: 

  • ‘Canada Red’
  • ‘Crimson Red’
  • ‘MacDonald’
  • ‘Valentine’

In addition to the previous four, there is a reliable, green-stalked cultivar named:

  • ‘Victoria’

Wit and Wisdom

Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America shortly thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens.

Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb. 

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Anonymous</span> Fri, 03/29/2013 - 02:59
My rhubarb has come up for the 7th year in pots on my balcony in Italy!! I am thrilled to have it in this hot climate (and I grew it from seeds!) but this year, one plant has a hard thick stock coming up. What should I do? I know I can't eat that but what about the shoots coming out of it and how do I eliminate the hard stock for next year?
<span>Anonymous</span> Mon, 04/15/2013 - 10:30
Where are you located? I'm in Rome and desperate to find some rhubarb plants but have had no luck.
<span>Anonymous</span> Sat, 05/18/2013 - 05:05
Hi There! I'm in Bergamo which is near Milano. I found seeds in a store (VERY unusual) and started several plants from them. Last week I went into a Consorzio Agricola and found a small new plant and bought that too. If you find any, be sure to keep it well shaded and well watered all summer. It's really a bit too hot in Italy! Good luck!
<span>Anonymous</span> Wed, 01/30/2013 - 19:51
We are a family of 8- I would like to make pies, jelly and have some for summer snacking. How many crowns do you recommend I plant> Thank you!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 02/01/2013 - 17:32
A general rule is to plant 3 to 6 plants for a family of four. (Some families would do OK with even less, depending on how often they harvest.) So, double that to 6 to 12 plants, and you should be all set.
<span>Anonymous</span> Mon, 01/28/2013 - 16:26
I planted rhubarb roots bought at a store in late spring of last year. It never came up. I watered it every couple of days if it didn't rain. I had dug holes and added compost to the hole before planting. What did I do wrong?
<span>Anonymous</span> Sun, 05/12/2013 - 09:09
PLANT ROOT IN THE GROUND NOT DEEPER THEN 2 INCHES
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 01/30/2013 - 16:45
You know that rhubarb needs a winter chill (below 40°F), right? And a moderate summer (75°F-ish, on average). You do not indicate where you are from. One of our editors did the same thing and had the same outcome. Twice. (Not very encouraging, huh?) Actually the third time was the charm. In early spring, she dug a much larger hole (a square yard of space, not merely pot-size, 10 inches down), thus amending the soil (with compost, aged manure, and 5-10-10 fertilizer) in a much larger area. She put the hole in a sunny spot, for full-day exposure. And she made sure that the crowns were near the surface--no more than an inch or so under soil. And she watered to keep it moist, but not soggy. It seemed to work. The pie was delicious! We hope this helps— best wishes.
<span>Anonymous</span> Thu, 01/17/2013 - 23:11
I live inland from Laguna Beach, California. I grew rhubarb very successfully for two years. I had two plants that were in a vegetable garden and planted in the shade of a crepe myrtle tree. Our soil is full of clay. The two plants were Victoria. I did everything wrong. I picked as much as I could the first year and made 4 pies and 4 batches of preserves. I fertilized them with Miracle Grow. The second year I made 7 pies and 4 more batches of preserves. Would have made more but we went out of town in the middle of June for a summer long RV trip. Unfortunately it was SOOO very HOT in Southern California last year that the two plants dried up. They were on a drip watering system but that didn't work when the weather was over 100 for a week at a time. The first of January I tried finding bareroot rhubarb in the nurseries. I found one Canadian Red in a nursery and 2 Victorias at Lowes. Would have loved one more plant but couldn't find one. I am anxious to see what happens this year. Will still pick this year and fertilize because it worked for me.
<span>Rom</span> Thu, 10/24/2013 - 20:17
I live in the mountains above Santa Barbara it also gets very hot through the summer. Last year I bought a six pack of rhubarb at Green Thumb nursery in Ventura. I planted them in a raised bed fairly close together. Five of them grew just like you'd expect, the sixth one just exploded, and we had a hard time keeping up with the amount of rhubarb it produced. Without any exaggeration we got at least ten pies off of the one plant. We never harvested any useable stalks off of the other five, Then, I suppose it was as the weather turned hot all we got were thin stalks and short stalks. The heavy producing one also went to seed. I have just transplanted them and gave them a little more room. You can find it for sale at Whole Foods in season, and also at some Farmer's Markets.