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How to Grow Salvia Plants: Planting and Care

Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Want to grow salvia? Plant it in a sunny spot after the last spring frost. The trick? Water regularly while it settles in, but don’t let the soil stay soggy. Get that balance right, and you’ll be rewarded with colorful flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Whether you’re starting with seeds or a nursery plant, we’ll show you how to get salvia growing, care for it through the season, and coax even more flowers.

Planting

When to Plant Salvia

Spring is the best time to plant most salvias, after the last frost.

  • Potted salvia: Plant outdoors after the last spring frost. Some salvias survive winter and come back year after year. If yours does, you can also plant it in early fall, several weeks before the first frost. Check the plant label or ask your garden center if you’re unsure.
  • Salvia seeds: Start indoors about 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost, depending on the variety. Check your seed packet for timing.

Find your local frost dates with our Frost Dates Calculator.

Where to Plant Salvia

  • Sunny location: Most salvias are happiest with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunshine a day. In hot summers, some lighter-colored annual salvias appreciate a little afternoon shade.
  • Soil: Choose a spot where water doesn’t collect after rain. Salvia doesn’t like sitting in soggy soil! Avoid low spots and areas where water runs off the roof. See our guide to improving soil drainage if needed.
Purple salvia blooming in a garden bed beside rocks and pink flowers
Give salvia a sunny spot and plenty of room to fill out as it grows.
Credit: Mark Herreid

How to Plant Salvia

To plant salvia from nursery plants:

  1. Start by loosening the soil about 12 inches deep. Remove any large stones or roots you come across. If the soil is heavy or compacted, work in a little compost.
  2. Dig a hole about twice as wide as the plant’s pot, but no deeper than the root ball. Gently remove the plant from its pot and set it in the hole, keeping the top of the root ball level with the surrounding soil. If you’re planting several salvias, leave about 1 to 3 feet between plants, depending on the variety.
  3. Carefully fill in around the plant, pressing the soil down gently. Water thoroughly, then add a light layer of mulch, keeping it away from the stems.

Growing salvia in a container? Use potting mix rather than garden soil. Smaller annual salvias can grow in pots about 8 to 10 inches wide, but larger plants need more room—often 3 to 5 gallons or more. Check the mature size on the plant label. Whatever you use, make sure the container has drainage holes!

To grow salvia from seeds:

  1. Fill a seed tray or small pots with damp seed-starting mix. Lightly press the seeds into the mix, following your seed packet’s instructions on whether to cover them.
  2. Keep the mix lightly moist, not soggy, while the seeds sprout. Once seedlings appear, give them plenty of light.
  3. When your seedlings are ready, help them adjust to outdoor life—this is known as “hardening off”—before planting them outside for good after the last spring frost.

Growing

Watering

  • Water newly planted salvias regularly while they settle in and grow roots.
  • After that, water when the soil begins to dry, adjusting for rainfall and the type of salvia you’re growing. Many established salvias don’t mind a dry spell, with the exception of pineapple sage, which prefers more consistent moisture.
  • If your salvia is in a pot, check it for dryness more often since potted plants dry out faster than plants in the garden.

Fertilizing

  • If you’re growing salvias in a container, feed them lightly during the growing season, following the fertilizer label.
  • Salvias grown in the garden usually don’t need any fertilizer. But if yours need a pick-me-up, you can apply a little compost in the spring.
  • Go easy on fertilizer—too much and you’ll get lots of leaves but not many flowers.

Pruning and Deadheading

  • Deadhead salvias (snip off the faded flower spikes) about every 1–2 weeks during the growing season to encourage more blooms and keep your plants looking trim.
  • Prune dead or damaged stems as needed. Just keep in mind that a brown, woody stem isn’t necessarily dead or damaged. Some salvia types develop woody stems as they grow.

Seasonal Care

  • At the end of the season: Leave some faded salvia flower spikes in place. Some varieties produce seeds that birds enjoy, and a few may even reseed themselves!
  • Before winter: Not all salvias survive freezing winters! Check your plant label to see whether yours can stay outdoors. You can grow less-hardy varieties as annuals or bring suitable potted plants into a frost-free spot.
  • Each spring: Remove dead or damaged stems, leaving healthy stems and new growth in place. Freshen up your plants with a new layer of mulch as needed.

Every few years in early spring, you can divide perennial salvias that grow in clumps under the soil. Just lift the plants, gently split them into smaller clumps with roots attached, and replant!

Harvesting

When to Harvest

  • Salvia flowers can be harvested for cut flowers and bouquets as soon as they begin to open.
  • Harvest your salvias in the early morning if you can—flowers harvested then tend to last the longest!

How to Harvest

  • Use sharp, clean pruners to snip the long flower stems free.
  • Keep as many leaves in place as you can so the plants stay healthy.
  • Try not to harvest more than one-third of your plant’s blooms at once. Pollinators like bees and butterflies rely on salvia flowers for nectar, so they need their share, too!
Girl holding bouquet of freshly-cut salvia flowers in garden.
Freshly cut salvia flower spikes make a lovely addition to summer bouquets. Credit: Maples Images

Storage

  • Place your cut salvia flowers in a vase of fresh water as soon as you can, removing any leaves or blooms that would be underwater.
  • Refresh the water daily and keep the flowers out of direct sunlight.
  • Your salvia flowers should look lovely for about 5 to 7 days after harvesting!

Pests and Problems

Salvias are hardy plants that keep away many diseases and pests. Even deer and rabbits usually steer clear! Still, these tough-as-nails beauties can run into trouble if they become stressed.

Here’s how to spot common problems, pests, and plant diseases—and what to do next. 

Salvia Pests and Problems
What You SeeLikely CauseWhat to Do
Floppy or leggy stemsToo little sunlight, overly wet soil, or too much nitrogen fertilizer.Check sunlight and drainage. Move plants to a sunnier spot if needed, let soil dry between waterings, and cut back on fertilizer.
Few or no flowersToo little sunlight, too much fertilizer, uneven watering, or pest damage.Check your salvia’s usual bloom season and sunlight needs. Cut back on fertilizer, adjust watering, and inspect leaves and buds for pests.
Curled or twisted leaves; sticky residue or a black, sooty coating.Aphids feeding on leaves and stems.Check new growth and leaf undersides for clusters of tiny insects. Knock them off with a firm spray of water. If needed, use an organic insecticidal soap, following the label’s instructions; avoid spraying flowers or pollinators. 
Thin webs and pale speckles on leaves, especially in hot, dry weatherSpider mites feeding on your plants.Rinse leaf undersides with water and prevent plants from becoming drought-stressed. If mites persist, use an organic insecticidal soap, following the label’s instructions; avoid spraying flowers or pollinators.
White or gray powdery patches on leaves and stemsPowdery mildew.Remove badly affected leaves. Give plants enough space for air to move freely. 
Brown spots on leaves; browning flowers; fuzzy gray mold Gray mold (Botrytis blight).Remove and discard affected flowers and foliage. Improve airflow, water at the soil line, and disinfect pruning tools between plants.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Ancient Romans considered sage a sacred herb and used it in religious ceremonies.
  • The name salvia comes from the Latin salvere, meaning “to be healthy.”
  • Sage (the common kitchen herb) is a type of salvia, too!
  • Salvia belongs to the mint family (Lamiaceae), making it a cousin of basil and lavender.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Is salvia a perennial?

    Many salvias are perennials, meaning they come back year after year. But some are grown as annuals because they can’t survive cold winters. Check your plant label to see whether yours will return where you live.

  • Should you deadhead salvia?
    Yes—deadheading salvia is a great way to encourage another round of flowers. Just snip off the flower spikes after the flower is past its prime.
  • Do salvias bloom all summer?

    Some salvias flower through much of summer, while others wait until later in the season. Autumn sage has a long flowering season, whereas pineapple sage typically blooms in late summer and fall.

  • Can salvia grow in shade?

    While a few salvias don’t mind a bit of shade, most grow and flower best with lots of sunshine. If your summers are scorching, types like autumn sage might appreciate a little afternoon shade. Before choosing where to plant your salvia, take a peek at how much light it prefers.

  • Is salvia deer resistant?

    Many salvia types are not high on a deer’s menu. Still, when food is hard to find, a hungry deer might nibble on just about any plant, so don’t take “deer resistant” as a promise carved in stone.

  • Does salvia spread?

    Some salvias grow in tidy clumps, while others spread or produce new plants from seed. Check the plant label to see how wide yours will grow, and give it a little elbow room!

Sources
  1. University of Florida Extension — Bird-Friendly Plants
  2. NC State Extension — Salvia Plant Toolbox
  3. University of Minnesota Extension — Salvia Plant Profile

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann