The black walnut tree (Juglans nigra) is one of North America’s most valuable and beautiful native trees, but it does have a “dark side.” Here’s what you should know before planting a black walnut in your yard—and how to harvest and eat the tasty black walnuts too!
Facts About the Black Walnut Tree
The easily worked, close-grained wood of the black walnut has long been prized by cabinet- and furniture-makers for its attractive color and exceptional durability. Black walnut logs are in such demand for veneer that “walnut rustlers” have made off with trees in the dead of night and even used helicopters in their operations.
Early settlers discovered black walnuts growing in mixed forests from Canada to northern Florida and west to the Great Plains. They found that their rich-brown heartwood was exceptionally resistant to decay and used it for fence posts, poles, shingles, and sills.
When surrounded by other trees in the forest, black walnuts grow straight and tall with few, if any, lower branches.
When planted in the open, the tree will branch out closer to the ground, developing a spreading shape that makes it easier to harvest its sweet, round, 2- to 3-inch nuts.
Settlers snacked on the nutritious walnuts out of hand, added them to soups and stews, and ground them into a meal for baking; the hard shells provided a perfect package for storing the nuts over winter.
What Is Juglone?
Although the black walnut has many uses and benefits, the tree does come with a caveat: the black walnut’s roots, which may extend 50 feet or more from the trunk, exude a natural herbicide known as juglone. This substance is also found in the tree’s leaves and fruit husks.
Juglone does serve a purpose, though. It inhibits many plants’ growth under and around the tree, thereby limiting the tree’s competition and leaving more water and nutrients for itself.
Tomatoes, potatoes, apples, pears, berries, and some landscape plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and lilacs may be killed or stunted if grown close to black walnut roots or within the tree’s drip line (i.e., under the tree’s canopy). Plan your landscaping accordingly!
Juglone Plant Susceptibility Chart
Highly Susceptible (Avoid Planting Near Black Walnut)
Tolerant (Safe to Plant Near Black Walnut)
Tomato
Corn
Potato
Beans
Eggplant
Carrots
Peppers
Beets
Apple Trees
Onions
Pear Trees
Cherry Trees (some varieties)
Blueberries
Black Raspberry
Rhododendrons
Pawpaw Tree
Azaleas
Red Maple
Lilacs
Hickory
Mountain Laurel
Oak (most species)
Hydrangea
Dogwood
A Great Shade Tree
Black walnuts make great shade trees for larger properties. They commonly grow to 50 feet or taller and about as wide, but specimens of more than 100 feet have been recorded.
Black walnut’s large, fernlike foliage provides light, airy shade for those grasses and ground covers unaffected by juglone. The leaves turn bright yellow in autumn, contrasting nicely with the tree’s rugged, dark bark.
Black walnuts require deep, fertile soil with a near-neutral or slightly acidic pH. They are pretty much disease-free and are threatened by a few pests.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
Thud! Thud! Most walnut tree owners have a love/hate relationship because of the fruit the tree drops in late summer through October. The fruit is quite heavy, the size of a baseball, and lime green in color. It makes quite a mess and can be viewed as a nuisance.
Walnut tree owners will spend hours picking up the fruit in some years. If you don’t remove the nuts, you’ll trip over them in the dark for the rest of the year (while they rot and mold on your lawn). Hire the kid down the street to pick up those dropped walnuts (just be careful not to pay per nut—you’ll go broke)!
Photo Credit: John A. Anderson
If you’re willing to crack the outer shell, the “meat” inside is edible, as the squirrels will attest; squirrels have little problem chewing through the shells. (Note: Black walnuts are different from English walnuts, which are more commonly sold in stores and shown in the photo above.)
The sweet, earthy nutmeat inside is well worth the effort. Your grandparents may have harvested walnuts, which can be eaten raw or added to baking (cookies and bars). They can also be used as toppings on ice cream and cakes, enjoyed as a sweetened candy nut, or ground into a meal for a unique flour.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
To harvest, collect the nuts as soon as possible to avoid mold and remove the husks immediately.
Wear gloves as the husks stain your hands (and anything they touch). If the nut is too hard, wait a few days, and it will brown and soften up.)
To remove the husk, you can step on them gently with an old pair of shoes. Hose down the nuts in a large bucket to remove any remaining husk.
Dry the walnuts for a couple of weeks on a screen, drying rack, or in a hanging mesh bag. You can store them unshelled for up to a year.
Crack the shell with a hammer to get to the nut meat. (Strike at a 90-degree angle to the seam until the nut cracks). Use pliers to easily clip away the shell to release the nutmeat.
Allow the freshly removed nutmeat to dry for a day before storing.
Do you have a black walnut tree? Please share your comments, questions, and advice!
George and Becky Lohmiller shared their gardening knowledge and enthusiasm with Almanac readers for more than 15 years, writing Farmer’s Calendar essays and gardening articles in previous editions of The Old Farmer’s Almanac.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Mon, 10/02/2017 - 14:25
Prune during the dormant season. Do not apply paint or other sealants to pruning cuts. Wait until walnut trees are 3 to 4 inches in diameter. Trees up to 10 inches in diameter may benefit from pruning.
Do not remove more than 25% of the live crown in a single pruning or prune higher than 50 percent of total tree height. (The "crown" of a tree refers to the branches extending from the trunk or main stems. The "live crown" refers to the part of the crown that has live foliage.)
Prune only branches less than 2 inches in diameter, preferably less than 1 inch. Larger pruning cuts heal slowly and may lead to decay and ring shake. Prune up to 9 feet high; if possible, prune timber trees up to 17 feet in two or more pruning operations. Stem forks, crooks, or large branches may restrict pruning height.
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<span>Kevin</span>Tue, 09/26/2017 - 17:14
I have a 25 ft black walnut tree I've grown from a nut brought from Ontario to Vancouver Island.
There is an apple tree growing within 10 ft of the tree. Will te roots of the walnut kill my apple tree and will they affect the fruit in any way.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 09/27/2017 - 16:47
The only "apple" trees that we can find in our information/sources that tolerates the juglone (the chemical in black walnut tree buds, nut hulls, and roots) are crabapple and mayapple. We checked several, so we would say no, the apple will not survive. Our sources suggests that the highest concentration of juglone is under the canopy but toxicity symptoms can appear on plants that are, on average, 50 to 60 feel from the tree trunk.
BTW, we are in awe of the fact that you grew your 25-foot black walnut from "seed"!
I have about 8 walnut trees on my property, with one being in a clearing. I have noticed these little white worms, quickly invading the green outer shell of the nut on this one particular tree within days of being on the ground. what are these little buggers?
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<span>Lisa</span>Mon, 09/18/2017 - 19:04
The Black Walnuts are very large this year but many the nut isn't ripe it's dried out - what would cause this ?
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<span>Laura Clark</span>Thu, 09/14/2017 - 16:30
They are at least anti-parasitic, for raccoons. (although I have seen black walnut powder listed as an ingredient in various nutritional supplements to detoxify or de-worm humans, too)... Anyway, after discovering a litter of abandoned baby raccoons, I sought out my local nature center, to take them in, and help them out. I was turned away, because they didn't take such animals, but they gave me the phone number of a certified wildlife rehabber, who did. This person was overwhelmed with the critters, so she took them with the condition that I was willing for her to teach me how to do it, and officially sub contract me, and have me do it, myself. This is how I learned that black walnuts are a favorite food of raccoons. Not only is it nutritious, but the walnuts provide a natural anti-parasite property, that helps to prevent or relieve intestinal worm infections. On a side note, let it be known that raccoons do not prefer to eat garbage, and are actually very selective about what they eat, but unfortunately, they don't always have enough areas for foraging for such foods. They actually eat a diet very similar to bears... Just on a smaller scale. I live in the country, where they have plenty to eat, and they've never gotten in my garbage. But similarly, to bears, I suppose some of them get into the habit, out of convenience. Sorry for going off topic, but perhaps this will explain why wild animals are attracted to these trees, on people's yards.
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<span>Laura Clark</span>Thu, 09/14/2017 - 16:07
Not someone who knows much about trees, I was surprised to find out the trees that line my country road, where I wait for my kids at the bus stop, are actually walnut trees. I actually thought they were dropping some kind of apple-like fruit. There is a group of 7 crows that live in one of them, and I have enjoyed watching them eat the walnuts (as I now know them to be), by knocking them off the branches, and then centering them in the dirt road, along the tire ruts, for cars to run over them and crack them open. Crows are smart! It makes even more sense, realizing these are not apple-like fruit, but actually nuts. The walnut trees line a pasture for cattle and corn, alternately. They are very, very tall old trees. And indeed, they do provide a lot of shade. One of them has the remnants of a fort, built into it... a fort that must have been built some time ago... now that fort is at least 15 feet from the ground. Thank you for posting this article so I could learn more about my favorite trees.
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<span>Stacy</span>Tue, 09/05/2017 - 15:14
Hi! I have a very large, tall black walnut tree at the front of my house -near the drive way. It has no signs of disease or that it is dying -- but it is dropping large branches! The branches have green leaves and walnuts and seem to be falling for no reason. Some of the branches have been so large that I have considered taking it down because it is dangerous. Have you ever seen this happen before?
Thanks!
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 09/06/2017 - 13:06
We consulted a cooperative extension for your question: The weight alone of walnuts typically does not cause limbs to crack and fall. There may be an underlying pest or disease problem. How old is the tree? Do you see any yellowing or dying leaves? There is a disease of walnut trees called Thousand Cankers Disease caused by the Walnut Twig Beetle recently spotted in Ohio. Following is a link to an OSU announcement about the Walnut Twig Beetle: https://ag.purdue.edu/aganswers/Pages/archive.aspx?story=229#.U8RE_bFAQrw
Stacy, you can consult a cooperative extension service in your area. Click on your state for details: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services
It may be that you need to consult an arborist.
Good luck!
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<span>E Smith</span>Sun, 09/03/2017 - 21:39
I have a walnut tree that was starting to leaf out this spring, when we received bitter cold weather and heavy wet snow for 3 days. The leaves turned black and crisp. Now it's the first is September and it has no leaves at all. I've been keeping suckers trimmed along base. I fertilized the tree with deep root waterer this summer. It still is green when I knock it. Am I wasting my time? Or may it come back next spring? It was beautiful last year. Also I have bulbs, bleeding hearts, cosmos, California poppies growing underneath. I miss my tree. Thank you
Prune during the dormant season. Do not apply paint or other sealants to pruning cuts. Wait until walnut trees are 3 to 4 inches in diameter. Trees up to 10 inches in diameter may benefit from pruning.
Do not remove more than 25% of the live crown in a single pruning or prune higher than 50 percent of total tree height. (The "crown" of a tree refers to the branches extending from the trunk or main stems. The "live crown" refers to the part of the crown that has live foliage.)
Prune only branches less than 2 inches in diameter, preferably less than 1 inch. Larger pruning cuts heal slowly and may lead to decay and ring shake. Prune up to 9 feet high; if possible, prune timber trees up to 17 feet in two or more pruning operations. Stem forks, crooks, or large branches may restrict pruning height.