The black walnut tree (Juglans nigra) is one of North America’s most valuable and beautiful native trees, but it does have a “dark side.” Here’s what you should know before planting a black walnut in your yard—and how to harvest and eat the tasty black walnuts too!
Facts About the Black Walnut Tree
The easily worked, close-grained wood of the black walnut has long been prized by cabinet- and furniture-makers for its attractive color and exceptional durability. Black walnut logs are in such demand for veneer that “walnut rustlers” have made off with trees in the dead of night and even used helicopters in their operations.
Early settlers discovered black walnuts growing in mixed forests from Canada to northern Florida and west to the Great Plains. They found that their rich-brown heartwood was exceptionally resistant to decay and used it for fence posts, poles, shingles, and sills.
When surrounded by other trees in the forest, black walnuts grow straight and tall with few, if any, lower branches.
When planted in the open, the tree will branch out closer to the ground, developing a spreading shape that makes it easier to harvest its sweet, round, 2- to 3-inch nuts.
Settlers snacked on the nutritious walnuts out of hand, added them to soups and stews, and ground them into a meal for baking; the hard shells provided a perfect package for storing the nuts over winter.
What Is Juglone?
Although the black walnut has many uses and benefits, the tree does come with a caveat: the black walnut’s roots, which may extend 50 feet or more from the trunk, exude a natural herbicide known as juglone. This substance is also found in the tree’s leaves and fruit husks.
Juglone does serve a purpose, though. It inhibits many plants’ growth under and around the tree, thereby limiting the tree’s competition and leaving more water and nutrients for itself.
Tomatoes, potatoes, apples, pears, berries, and some landscape plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and lilacs may be killed or stunted if grown close to black walnut roots or within the tree’s drip line (i.e., under the tree’s canopy). Plan your landscaping accordingly!
Juglone Plant Susceptibility Chart
Highly Susceptible (Avoid Planting Near Black Walnut)
Tolerant (Safe to Plant Near Black Walnut)
Tomato
Corn
Potato
Beans
Eggplant
Carrots
Peppers
Beets
Apple Trees
Onions
Pear Trees
Cherry Trees (some varieties)
Blueberries
Black Raspberry
Rhododendrons
Pawpaw Tree
Azaleas
Red Maple
Lilacs
Hickory
Mountain Laurel
Oak (most species)
Hydrangea
Dogwood
A Great Shade Tree
Black walnuts make great shade trees for larger properties. They commonly grow to 50 feet or taller and about as wide, but specimens of more than 100 feet have been recorded.
Black walnut’s large, fernlike foliage provides light, airy shade for those grasses and ground covers unaffected by juglone. The leaves turn bright yellow in autumn, contrasting nicely with the tree’s rugged, dark bark.
Black walnuts require deep, fertile soil with a near-neutral or slightly acidic pH. They are pretty much disease-free and are threatened by a few pests.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
Thud! Thud! Most walnut tree owners have a love/hate relationship because of the fruit the tree drops in late summer through October. The fruit is quite heavy, the size of a baseball, and lime green in color. It makes quite a mess and can be viewed as a nuisance.
Walnut tree owners will spend hours picking up the fruit in some years. If you don’t remove the nuts, you’ll trip over them in the dark for the rest of the year (while they rot and mold on your lawn). Hire the kid down the street to pick up those dropped walnuts (just be careful not to pay per nut—you’ll go broke)!
Photo Credit: John A. Anderson
If you’re willing to crack the outer shell, the “meat” inside is edible, as the squirrels will attest; squirrels have little problem chewing through the shells. (Note: Black walnuts are different from English walnuts, which are more commonly sold in stores and shown in the photo above.)
The sweet, earthy nutmeat inside is well worth the effort. Your grandparents may have harvested walnuts, which can be eaten raw or added to baking (cookies and bars). They can also be used as toppings on ice cream and cakes, enjoyed as a sweetened candy nut, or ground into a meal for a unique flour.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
To harvest, collect the nuts as soon as possible to avoid mold and remove the husks immediately.
Wear gloves as the husks stain your hands (and anything they touch). If the nut is too hard, wait a few days, and it will brown and soften up.)
To remove the husk, you can step on them gently with an old pair of shoes. Hose down the nuts in a large bucket to remove any remaining husk.
Dry the walnuts for a couple of weeks on a screen, drying rack, or in a hanging mesh bag. You can store them unshelled for up to a year.
Crack the shell with a hammer to get to the nut meat. (Strike at a 90-degree angle to the seam until the nut cracks). Use pliers to easily clip away the shell to release the nutmeat.
Allow the freshly removed nutmeat to dry for a day before storing.
Do you have a black walnut tree? Please share your comments, questions, and advice!
George and Becky Lohmiller shared their gardening knowledge and enthusiasm with Almanac readers for more than 15 years, writing Farmer’s Calendar essays and gardening articles in previous editions of The Old Farmer’s Almanac.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 09/06/2017 - 13:16
This one is beyond our ken, E, but we found some information that may shed some light on your tree's failure to leaf. (Sit down; there's a lot to read.)
This page, from the Oregon State cooperative extension service addresses frost situations and more: http://horticulture.oregonstate.edu/system/files/u1473/em8907.pdf
Purdue says plainly: "Black walnut is very susceptible to light freezes..." See here: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-119.html
You can, and should, consult your local cooperative extension service for local advice. See here and choose your state: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services
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<span>Keith</span>Thu, 08/17/2017 - 08:12
Planted 100 seedlings in 1972, then another 3,500 in 1987, of which over 1,000 (drought year in 1988) are still alive and now growing well. This article says the seeds are sweet and two to three inches. Black walnuts have a strong, bordering on bitter, flavor, and in my experience average about an inch in diameter. Some say that they are a slow growing tree. I've got some second-generation volunteers now approaching 50 feet in height, had to remove one second generation tree last year that measured over 20 diameter at the base, about 40 feet through the crown. The hard shell may well protect the nuts for storage, but they must be protected from mice that will chew right through the shell, even chewing through the walls of a plastic container to get to them. Nuts planted in the fall will often sprout the following year, as the shell opens along the seam. Squirrels will "discover" the new seedlings and pull them to get at the nut, although they are also responsible for burrying more nuts than I've ever planted.
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<span>Dawn</span>Thu, 08/10/2017 - 13:01
Composting: Can you compost the leaves? There was a study that OSU did. That they were safe to compost. They lose the juglone over time of composting.
The one thing is can you put that compost around tomato plants?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Thu, 08/10/2017 - 15:44
As you mention, juglone is the substance in black walnut trees that can cause severe damage and even kill solanaceous crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant). However, not all plants are susceptive to the chemical. Edibles that are tolerant of juglone include corn, beans, onions, beets and carrots.
Other trees that carry juglone include butternut, hickories, and pecan; black walnut has the highest concentration of it.
Walnut leaves can be composted because the juglone toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria. The toxic effect can be degraded in two to four weeks. In the soil, breakdown may take up to two months after the living walnut tree has been removed. Mulch or woodchips from black walnut are not recommended for plants sensitive to juglone. However, composting the woodchips for a minimum of six months allows the chemical to break down to a safe level even for plants sensitive to juglone.
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<span>Leba Miller</span>Thu, 07/20/2017 - 02:17
This article, the comments and your well-stated answers were a joy to read. My question is why does the hard green outer shell have such a pungent citrus smell?
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<span>Michelle</span>Mon, 06/26/2017 - 11:24
I have a larger mature black walnut tree in my garden. I have had wonderful luck with Hostas and most spring bulbs. I have tulips, daffodils, iris and hyacinths. There are several guides for tolerant plants.
Then I tried putting in a KOI POND.....Walnut trees kill fish. Does anyone know if they are safe for frogs????
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 06/28/2017 - 09:28
Hi Michelle,
We're sorry to hear about your koi pond! It's hard to say for sure if the black walnut tree toxins will affect frogs: It is poisonous to dogs and horses, but not to cats. The area of affected soil is usually 50 to 60 feet surround the tree, depending on its age.
this year we have an extreme amount of the green flowering type of powder like strings falling from the trees. Does the increase of this make an increase in the the likely amount of nuts they will produce?
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<span>Marie Rogers</span>Tue, 04/25/2017 - 12:09
Need to know if they will grow by Black walnut trees !!???
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Thu, 04/27/2017 - 15:46
Hi, Marie: Need to tell you nope, not well. Thanks for asking!
This one is beyond our ken, E, but we found some information that may shed some light on your tree's failure to leaf. (Sit down; there's a lot to read.)
This page, from the Oregon State cooperative extension service addresses frost situations and more: http://horticulture.oregonstate.edu/system/files/u1473/em8907.pdf
Purdue says plainly: "Black walnut is very susceptible to light freezes..." See here: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-119.html
You can, and should, consult your local cooperative extension service for local advice. See here and choose your state: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services