Caption
African Violets are delightful houseplants and will brighten up any room with their purple, pink, or white colors.
Planting
How to Plant African Violets
- You can use an African violet–specific potting mix or an all-purpose potting mix, as long as it is well-draining. Here’s how to create your own mix.
- Keep African violets planted in small pots and repot every few years in fresh potting mix. Being a bit pot-bound encourages African violets to bloom more, so don’t be too quick to give them more space.
- The potting mix should be loose and well-draining; high organic matter content is a plus. Learn about organic soil amendments.
- When repotting African violets, don’t plant them any deeper than they were planted previously, and be careful not to bury the crown. African violets‘ stems can be susceptible to rot if kept too moist.
Growing
How to Care for African Violets
- According to Julie Weisenhorn, an Extension educator at the University of Minnesota, “If you are comfortable, your African violet is comfortable.” Optimal room temperature for growing African violets is between 60° and 80°F and ideally 70°F.” However, some are more tolerant of cooler conditions. In any case, keep them away from drafty windows in winter.
- Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow, but keeping African violets slightly root-bound can encourage them to bloom. One sign that your violet needs repotting is wilted leaves.
- The fuzzy leaves have a tendency to collect dust and dirt. Brush them off gently with a small, soft-bristled paintbrush.
For more information on African violets, visit the website of the African Violet Society of America.
African Violet Troubleshooting Chart
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| No flowers | Too little light; too much nitrogen; plant too cold | Move to bright, indirect light; switch to a bloom-boosting fertilizer; keep temps 65°–75°F |
| Leaves turning yellow | Overwatering; poor drainage; old leaves | Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings; use a pot with drainage; remove aging outer leaves |
| Wilting leaves | Root rot or underwatering | Check soil moisture; trim rotted roots and repot in fresh mix; water consistently |
| Mushy or collapsing crown | Crown rot from cold water or water sitting on leaves | Water from the bottom; avoid splashing leaves; keep water lukewarm |
| Brown leaf spots | Cold water; sun scorch | Use room-temperature water; keep out of direct sunlight |
| Pale or stretched leaves | Insufficient light | Move plant closer to a bright window or use grow lights |
| Curled or brittle leaves | Low humidity; cold drafts | Increase humidity with a tray or humidifier; move away from vents |
| White crust on soil | Salt buildup from fertilizer or hard water | Flush soil monthly with distilled water; fertilize lightly |
| Slow growth | Root-bound plant; nutrient deficiency | Repot every 6–12 months; fertilize regularly at low strength |
| Flowers fade quickly | Heat stress; dry air | Keep temperatures moderate; increase humidity |
Use room-temperature water, as chilled water can leave marks on the leaves.
Leaves are susceptible to rot and fungal spots if kept in high humidity, so water African violets from the bottom to avoid getting excess water on the foliage.
Artificial lighting works well, too. Use fluorescent or LED bulbs to supplement natural lighting.
Thin, dark green leaves and leggy stems tell you the plant is getting too little light; light green or bleached leaves indicate too much light.
Overfertilizing is a more common problem than underfertilizing since most potting mixes come infused with plenty of nutrients.
Types
Hundreds of varieties and hybrids exist, from miniature violets to trailing varieties! They differ mainly in the colors of their flowers, which range from white to purple, though some varieties also have variegation in their foliage and flowers.
African violets are typically classified by size, based on how wide they grow:
- Miniature: less than 8 inches across
- Standard: 8–16 inches across
- Large: more than 16 inches across
More Like This
It sounds like you could be describing mealybugs or spider mites. Spider mites create thin webbing on the plant, while mealybugs look like tiny white, cottony spots. In either case, the first thing you should do is separate the infected plant away from others and check the plants around it for signs of the pest. They like to hang out on the undersides on leaves and in the center of the plant, where they feed on new growth. They both spread by crawling from plant to plant, so ensure that the infected plant is sufficiently far from other houseplants.
The pests can be wiped off or squished with a paper towel (or your fingers), but there are likely more than just the ones you are seeing. Try treating the plant with horticultural soap or neem oil. These can be bought at most garden centers or hardware stores, and are organic pesticides. It's important to test the pesticide on a single leaf and wait 24 hours before using it on the rest of the plant, just to make sure that the plant won't react negatively to it.
If this doesn't improve the situation, you may need to dispose of the plant, unfortunately. But preventing a larger infestation should be the #1 priority!
It's not necessary to remove the old leaf, but in theory you could use the same leaf again if you carefully separated it from the new plant. Depending on how young the new plant is, the old leaf may still be supporting it, so it would be wise to wait until the new plant is well rooted and is big enough to sustain itself.
We can't explain the "growth like thing"—at least sight unseen. However, wet leaves or too much water can lead to the brown-edged leaves and softness you describe. It may be that the soil is not draining. The African Violet Society (linked above) may have more detail about these specific conditions here on its "101" pages: http://www.avsa.org/learning
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