Planting
When to Plant Asparagus
- Asparagus is usually grown from 1-year-old plants called “crowns,” planted about 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost date. Many gardeners plant them at about the same time as potatoes.
- We do not recommend growing from seed; it takes about three years to mature enough to harvest. If you plant crowns, you can shorten the wait time by a year and eliminate one year of tedious weeding. However, if you’re truly eager to experiment and have a lot of patience and time, our colleague Robin wrote about planting asparagus by seed.
Where to Plant Asparagus
Given that asparagus is a perennial plant that comes back year after year in the same spot, it’s important to select a proper planting site where it will thrive.
- Choose a site that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight).
- Place the asparagus bed toward the edge of your garden, where it will not be disturbed by the activity of planting and replanting in other areas.
- Ensure the bed will drain well and not pool with water. Asparagus does not like to have its roots get too wet. If you do not have a site with good drainage available, consider growing asparagus in raised beds instead. Learn how to make a raised garden bed here.
- Asparagus thrives in neutral to slightly acidic soil (pH of about 6.5).
- Eliminate all weeds from the planting site, digging it over and working in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost, aged manure, or soil mix. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
- The soil should be loosened to 12 to 15 inches in depth to allow the asparagus crowns to root properly and not be disrupted by rocks or other obstacles.
How to Plant Asparagus
- Plant crowns deeply to protect them from the cultivation needed for annual weed control.
- Dig a trench about 12 to 18 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches deep. If digging more than one trench, space the trenches at least 3 feet apart.
- Soak the crowns briefly in lukewarm water before planting.
- Make a 2-inch-high ridge of soil along the center of the trench. Place the asparagus crowns on top of the mound, spreading out their roots evenly.
- Space asparagus crowns 12 to 18 inches apart (measured from root tip to root tip) within the trench.
Once you get to this point, you can follow one of two planting methods: the traditional “little-by-little” method or the easier “all-at-once” method.
“Little-by-Little” Method:
Once the trenches are dug and the crowns are set out:
- Cover the crowns with compost and topsoil, burying the crowns 2 inches deep. Water in.
- As the season progresses and spears grow to be 2 to 3 inches tall, add 2 more inches of soil to the trench, being careful not to bury the spears completely.
- Once the spears again grow through the layer of soil, add an additional 2-inch layer of soil. Repeat this process until the trench has been filled to ground level. Depending on how deep you dug your trench, you may need to add soil 1 to 2 more times throughout the season.
- After you’ve filled the trench completely, mound the soil slightly to prevent water from pooling around the emerging spears.
“All-at-Once” Method:
- Some gardeners simply fill in the trench with soil and compost all at once. While it’s thought that the traditional method results in stronger plants overall, gardeners don’t typically have any issues resulting from the “all-at-once” method. As long as the soil is fairly loose, the spears won’t have a problem pushing through to the surface.
Learn how to plant and grow an asparagus bed in our video:
Harvesting
- Skip the harvest in the first year and the second year, if possible. Ideally, wait three growing seasons before harvesting in order to allow the crowns to become fully established.
- If you have young plants, the season may last 2 to 3 weeks. However, established plants produce longer—up to 8 weeks.
- Check your plant every other day for harvest-ready spears. Spears grow quickly and may become too woody before you know it! Once an asparagus spear starts to open and has foliage, it’s too tough for eating.
- Harvest spears when they reach 8 to 10 inches in height and between 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick. (Bear in mind that younger, thinner spears will be more tender, so harvest according to your own taste.)
- To harvest asparagus, simply cut the spears with a sharp knife or scissors at ground level.
- Stop harvesting spears when the diameter of the spears decreases to the size of a pencil.
- After harvest, fertilize your asparagus patch in the early summer. You can top-dress with a balanced organic fertilizer or scatter another inch of rich, weed-free compost over the decomposing mulch.
- Do NOT cut down the remaining ferns in summer or you will ruin your asparagus bed. Allow the ferns to grow and mature; this replenishes the nutrients for next year’s spear production. Always leave at least two or three spears on the plant through the growing season.
- Only cut back asparagus ferns AFTER the foliage has died back and turned brown or yellow. This is usually in early winter after several hard freezes. Cut the ferns back to the ground.
- Fertilize the bed with a 1-inch layer of rich, weed-free compost or manure topped with 3 inches of straw, rotted sawdust, or another weed-free mulch. Clean spears will push up through the mulch in spring.
How to Store Asparagus
- Plunge just-cut spears into cold water immediately to preserve their sugar content.
- Asparagus does not keep for very long after it’s picked, so be sure to eat it within 2 or 3 days from harvest.
- To store, bundle the spears together, wrap the stem ends of the spears in a moist paper towel, and place the bundle in a plastic bag. Store in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator.
- If you have enough space in your fridge, you can also store asparagus by placing the spears in a cup of water. Keep about an inch of clean water in the cup.
Types
Asparagus plants are either male or female. Female plants produce berries; male plants do not expend energy on berries, so they can be up to three times more productive than female plants. For this reason, growing male asparagus plants is often preferred.
- Gardeners in Zones 4 to 6 have a wider selection of varieties, including ‘Jersey Giant’, ‘Jersey King’, and ‘Jersey Knight’. Older varieties ‘Mary Washington’ and ‘Martha Washington’ may produce female plants, which are not as productive as the males.
- In colder climates, ‘Guelph Millennium’ and other varieties that emerge late often escape damage from spring freezes.
- In warmer climates, early and heat-tolerant varieties such as ‘Apollo’ and ‘UC-157’ produce well before the weather turns hot.
White asparagus is not a variety but simply asparagus grown in the absence of sunlight to prevent chlorophyll from developing. White asparagus is slightly sweeter but has less fiber than green asparagus.
Purple asparagus is bred to be purple in color but turns green when it is cooked. Purple varieties tend to have thicker spears, but fewer of them. ‘Purple Passion’ is tasty but is not an all-male variety.
Hi, Heather, The fact that you did not cut the fronds should not cause the crop to diminish (althought that should be done after the fronds die back naturally). A couple of things come ti mind:
• did you water sufficiently last year?
• has the plot been weeded?
and perhaps most importantly,
• is the soil a heavily composted bed and is your pH at propoer range (6.0 to 8.0)?
Check these things and "fix," if possible. For local details, you might contact your state cooperative extension (get info via a Web search).
We hope this helps.
Hi, Gloria, So we're on the same page: the "roots" are actually crowns. It's hard to figure the number of spears per crown; we've seen/heard it stated as 1/2 pound per crown and as a measure of mouths your feeding: for example, plant 5 crowns per eater to eat fresh harvested. If you plan to freeze the crop, plant 10 crowns per eater.
Overall harvest volume depends more on the health of the plant's fern growth and your not overharvesting. Overharvesting reduces fern growth and so harvest the next year.
The harvest season in years is typically as follows:
• in 2nd year, harvest for 2 weeks
• in 3rd year, harvest for 4 weeks
• in 4th year, harvest for 6 weeks
• in the 5th year and beyond, harvest for 8 weeks.
More during warm spells, when spears are 5 to 7 inches in length. And all of these presumes that soil and water conditions are optimal.
Stop harvesting when spears are pencil thin, no matter what the week.
So it may be better to say that the older the crop, the more you get.
We hope this helps.
Asparagus is sometimes grown in a container, but it is difficult. One plant needs a deep and wide planter, at least 20 inches by 20 inches (some sources recommend even larger). The container should be placed on wheels for easy transport, and the pot should have drainage holes. Keep in mind that the fronds will grow quite tall (several feet). Also, the first 2 or 3 years, you'll need to avoid harvesting--so it would be just an ornamental early on. But if you are up to a challenge, it certainly is worth a try!
It is possible that the plants are recovering from losing their food-producing ferns from last year. Asparagus will sometimes will grow weak, spindly spears in this case (or if they were harvested too much). Or, it might instead be that the weather in your area is delaying the spears from emerging for a bit and that they will be fine in a few weeks. You might also check for disease, such as crown rot, which can also cause poor production. If crowns appear healthy, and after a while it does look like the plants are not producing, allow them to rest and do not harvest this year. Allow any spears that do emerge to develop fully into ferns so that they can help the plant to make food for the winter. Fertilize over the growing season as needed, and make sure that they get the proper amount of water. Provide mulch and hand weed, being careful around shallow asparagus roots. Next year, harvest very lightly or not at all; allow most spears to produce ferns again, to build up food resources in the crowns.
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