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Botanical Name
Asparagus officinalis
Grown as
Toxicity
Sun Exposure
Water Needs
Height
Spread
Soil pH
Bloom Time
Flower Color
Special Features
Resilience
Plant Type
Planting
When to Plant Asparagus
- Asparagus is usually grown from 1-year-old plants called “crowns,” planted about 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost date. Many gardeners plant them at about the same time as potatoes.
- We do not recommend growing from seed; it takes about three years to mature enough to harvest. If you plant crowns, you can shorten the wait time by a year and eliminate one year of tedious weeding. However, if you’re truly eager to experiment and have a lot of patience and time, our colleague Robin wrote about planting asparagus by seed.
Where to Plant Asparagus
Given that asparagus is a perennial plant that comes back year after year in the same spot, it’s important to select a proper planting site where it will thrive.
- Choose a site that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight).
- Place the asparagus bed toward the edge of your garden, where it will not be disturbed by the activity of planting and replanting in other areas.
- Ensure the bed will drain well and not pool with water. Asparagus does not like to have its roots get too wet. If you do not have a site with good drainage available, consider growing asparagus in raised beds instead. Learn how to make a raised garden bed here.
- Asparagus thrives in neutral to slightly acidic soil (pH of about 6.5).
- Eliminate all weeds from the planting site, digging it over and working in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost, aged manure, or soil mix. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
- The soil should be loosened to 12 to 15 inches in depth to allow the asparagus crowns to root properly and not be disrupted by rocks or other obstacles.
How to Plant Asparagus
- Plant crowns deeply to protect them from the cultivation needed for annual weed control.
- Dig a trench about 12 to 18 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches deep. If digging more than one trench, space the trenches at least 3 feet apart.
- Soak the crowns briefly in lukewarm water before planting.
- Make a 2-inch-high ridge of soil along the center of the trench. Place the asparagus crowns on top of the mound, spreading out their roots evenly.
- Space asparagus crowns 12 to 18 inches apart (measured from root tip to root tip) within the trench.
Once you get to this point, you can follow one of two planting methods: the traditional “little-by-little” method or the easier “all-at-once” method.
“Little-by-Little” Method:
Once the trenches are dug and the crowns are set out:
- Cover the crowns with compost and topsoil, burying the crowns 2 inches deep. Water in.
- As the season progresses and spears grow to be 2 to 3 inches tall, add 2 more inches of soil to the trench, being careful not to bury the spears completely.
- Once the spears again grow through the layer of soil, add an additional 2-inch layer of soil. Repeat this process until the trench has been filled to ground level. Depending on how deep you dug your trench, you may need to add soil 1 to 2 more times throughout the season.
- After you’ve filled the trench completely, mound the soil slightly to prevent water from pooling around the emerging spears.
“All-at-Once” Method:
- Some gardeners simply fill in the trench with soil and compost all at once. While it’s thought that the traditional method results in stronger plants overall, gardeners don’t typically have any issues resulting from the “all-at-once” method. As long as the soil is fairly loose, the spears won’t have a problem pushing through to the surface.
Learn how to plant and grow an asparagus bed in our video:
Harvesting
- Skip the harvest in the first year and the second year, if possible. Ideally, wait three growing seasons before harvesting in order to allow the crowns to become fully established.
- If you have young plants, the season may last 2 to 3 weeks. However, established plants produce longer—up to 8 weeks.
- Check your plant every other day for harvest-ready spears. Spears grow quickly and may become too woody before you know it! Once an asparagus spear starts to open and has foliage, it’s too tough for eating.
- Harvest spears when they reach 8 to 10 inches in height and between 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick. (Bear in mind that younger, thinner spears will be more tender, so harvest according to your own taste.)
- To harvest asparagus, simply cut the spears with a sharp knife or scissors at ground level.
- Stop harvesting spears when the diameter of the spears decreases to the size of a pencil.
- After harvest, fertilize your asparagus patch in the early summer. You can top-dress with a balanced organic fertilizer or scatter another inch of rich, weed-free compost over the decomposing mulch.
- Do NOT cut down the remaining ferns in summer or you will ruin your asparagus bed. Allow the ferns to grow and mature; this replenishes the nutrients for next year’s spear production. Always leave at least two or three spears on the plant through the growing season.
- Only cut back asparagus ferns AFTER the foliage has died back and turned brown or yellow. This is usually in early winter after several hard freezes. Cut the ferns back to the ground.
- Fertilize the bed with a 1-inch layer of rich, weed-free compost or manure topped with 3 inches of straw, rotted sawdust, or another weed-free mulch. Clean spears will push up through the mulch in spring.
How to Store Asparagus
- Plunge just-cut spears into cold water immediately to preserve their sugar content.
- Asparagus does not keep for very long after it’s picked, so be sure to eat it within 2 or 3 days from harvest.
- To store, bundle the spears together, wrap the stem ends of the spears in a moist paper towel, and place the bundle in a plastic bag. Store in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator.
- If you have enough space in your fridge, you can also store asparagus by placing the spears in a cup of water. Keep about an inch of clean water in the cup.
Types
Asparagus plants are either male or female. Female plants produce berries; male plants do not expend energy on berries, so they can be up to three times more productive than female plants. For this reason, growing male asparagus plants is often preferred.
- Gardeners in Zones 4 to 6 have a wider selection of varieties, including ‘Jersey Giant’, ‘Jersey King’, and ‘Jersey Knight’. Older varieties ‘Mary Washington’ and ‘Martha Washington’ may produce female plants, which are not as productive as the males.
- In colder climates, ‘Guelph Millennium’ and other varieties that emerge late often escape damage from spring freezes.
- In warmer climates, early and heat-tolerant varieties such as ‘Apollo’ and ‘UC-157’ produce well before the weather turns hot.
White asparagus is not a variety but simply asparagus grown in the absence of sunlight to prevent chlorophyll from developing. White asparagus is slightly sweeter but has less fiber than green asparagus.
Purple asparagus is bred to be purple in color but turns green when it is cooked. Purple varieties tend to have thicker spears, but fewer of them. ‘Purple Passion’ is tasty but is not an all-male variety.
I am so pleased I planted a new raised asparagus bed with about 15 crowns about 7 years ago north of Denver, CO so I could resemble the bed my grandparents had in upstate NY. I recently retired to a small fixer/upper farm and have a small chicken flock as well as a small equine herd. As a result, I have plenty of composted manure on hand for winter top dressing after the dead stalks and ferns are cut back and before the new shoots appear. I always look forward to those first harbingers of spring and indulge in fresh asparagus for dinner. I have been able to successfully freeze asparagus to use year round in a variety of egg recipes. Quiche makes a terrific meal and is a great way to use up eggs and clean out the freezer to be ready for the new harvest. My chickens adore hiding between the stalks in the summer and help cultivate between the plants when the new top layer is added. The added benefit is they scratch up the ground thereby eliminating weeds, cutworms, and leave their droppings which only aids in fertilizing the ground and has contributed to the bed becoming crowded (it is 5' by 15'). My question is, should asparagus be divided or should I harvest more?
To your question, no; do not try to divide it. Roots could be 6 feet or morel long. It sounds like it's thriving with all of the amendments you It is recommended (above) that trenches be 3 feet apart and crowns be set in them at 12 to 18 inches apart. The plants might be closer in your bed, but if they are producing, enjoy it.
I live in Henderson Nevada. At the end of December I trimmed the brown ferns leaving the stocks approximately two inches above ground and covered them with mulch. To my amazement I have spears that are now growing well beyond the mulch they were covered with. One spear shot up to approximately 18-24 inches the others are 4-6 inches tall. Is this normal for the spears to continue to grow and can you eat them? I thought cutting them back and mulching for winter causes them to go into dormancy. Your advise is appreciated. Thank you
Suburban gardener, I planted 11 feet of Mary Washington, and same of Purple Passion (boring color when cooked) about 17 years ago. It makes me VERY happy!!! Just me to feed, so occasionally my neighbors get some. I was just wondering how long I must wait until I fold down the ferns, but you've given me the answer: I can CUT is short (I don;t know why my habit has been simply to fold it down) and use it for mulch after I put down the compost I have planned for it. (Thank you for THAT tidbit!) Problem with straw is that it never rots..... Many thanks. My initial information came from the Ag department of the U of TEXAS!!! Your outline and suggestions above are better presented and clearer.
What can I use to keep weeds out of the aspargus bed?
Mulch. Or hand pick the weeds.
I am so sorry for the multiple submissions. I didn't think my question was being "saved." Again, my apologies.
I'm wondering if these ferny growths (currently around 3-4 inches high) are new future asparagus plants and if I should allow them to continue growing. Perhaps they are just weeds. Some have emerged on the pathway side of the crowns, so I have removed those. However, some of these little fern-like "things" are growing two feet on the other side of the crowns. I have not removed those yet. I have thirteen crowns in their third year. This is our first year harvesting. We have been pleased with production so far and have enjoyed asparagus side dishes at meals for about 5 weeks. I'm thinking it might be time to stop harvesting. A few stalks got ahead of me and are already 4 feet high and getting the expected ferny foliage.
They may be future stalks; let them be. You're right; it is about time to stop picking. You could lay on some mulch and prepare to set stake poles and string around the bed (like a simple fence) so that when the ferns become top heavy they do not fall to the ground.
I have a wonderful asparagus bed that is 5-6 years old. I have little fern like things coming up around each crown. Separate and very different than the spears of asparagus. Are they weeds or part of the plants ?
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