Caption
Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow.
Planting
When to Plant Blueberry Bushes
- Blueberries can be planted in spring—or also in late fall in all but the coldest regions. In Zones 5 and below, it’s best to wait until early to mid-spring to plant.
- If available, 1- to 3-year-old plants are a good choice. These can be bought in containers or bare-root. In either case, buy from a reputable nursery or website.
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
- Select a sunny, sheltered spot. While blueberries tolerate shade, better crops are obtained in the sun. At the same time, they should not be exposed to harsh, drying winds.
- Don’t plant blueberries too close to trees, as the trees will block out sunlight and suck up any moisture in the soil.
- If planting multiple bushes, it’s best to plant them in a group rather than scattered throughout your garden. This will bolster berry production and quality.
- Blueberries are a shallow-rooted plant. Therefore, they require soil that holds moisture but also drains well and doesn’t stay wet. Don’t plant blueberries in sites with heavy, clayey soils that stay wet.
- Blueberries thrive in soil that is acidic. The soil pH should ideally be between 4.0 and 5.0; soil that isn’t acidic enough will stunt growth. Soil can be acidified by mixing a small amount of granulated sulfur into the soil several months before planting. Peat moss and pine bark or pine needles are also good additions that will help acidify your soil.
- Mix organic matter into the soil before you set your blueberry bushes. (See more about preparing soil for planting.)
How to Plant Blueberry Bushes
- Tip: Be careful not to plant them too deep. The root ball should be just below the surface (¼ to ½ inch).
- Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (or about twice as wide and twice as deep as the plant’s roots).
- Space bushes 4–5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and 1 part oak leaf mold, peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
- Set the bush in the hole with the root ball just below the surface with its roots spread out. Pack the hole tightly with the soil.
- Apply fertilizer 1 month after planting, not at the time of planting. Apply ½ ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6 to 12 inches from the crown.
Harvesting
Warning: Blueberries are a favorite snack of hungry birds, so it’s recommended that you protect blueberry bushes ahead of time by draping bird netting over your plants.
How to Harvest Blueberries
- Blueberries are typically ready for picking between June and August.
- Don’t rush to pick the berries as soon as they turn blue. Wait a couple of days. When they are ready, they should fall off right into your hand.
- If you plant 2-year-old blueberry bushes, they should start to bear within a year or two. (Pick off any flowers that form the first year or two after planting to allow the bush to become established.) Be aware that full production is only reached after about 6 years (depending on variety).
How to Store Blueberries
- Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to freeze. Learn how to freeze blueberries so you can have them all winter long.
Types
There are four types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, hybrid half-high, and rabbiteye.
The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely with regard to cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor.
Blueberries are partially self-fertile, so you will harvest more and larger berries by planting two or more varieties together. Planting more than one variety can also extend the harvest season.
Comments
Here is a good reference article on reasons why a blueberry bush isn't fruiting: http://www.michigangardener.com/growing-blueberries-why-didnt-my-bushes-produce-fruit/
We would really need more information. Where do you live? What varieties? Are you giving them the very acidic soil they need? Blueberries prefer a soil pH between 4.5–5.0. You may want to identify the variety first by sending samples to your local cooperative extension; they can also help you with a soil test so you know how to prepare your soil appropriately.
It depends on the variety, but the berries should start ripening in mid to late July and peak production generally occurs from early to mid August.
Kathleen, you may find this page helpful: http://www.michigangardener.com/growing-blueberries-why-didnt-my-bushes-produce-fruit/
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Some blueberries may take about 6 years to produce fully. However, yellow leaves indicates that something else is going on, and can mean several things. First, check the pH of the soil (you can get a kit at a garden center, or have your soil tested by your county's Cooperative Extension). If your blueberry bush is not in the proper pH soil (between 4 and 5), it has a hard time absorbing nutrients, which causes nutrient deficiencies that can cause yellow leaves and other problems. Also, if you over- or under-fertilize, this again can cause yellowing leaves. Iron deficiency is common and starts with the newer leaves (yellow leaves with green veins), and then spreads to the older ones; it usually means that the soil pH is too high. Nitrogen (leaves and veins yellow) deficiency usually appears on older leaves first.
Also make sure your plant has at least 6 hours of sunlight each day, and good drainage so that the roots don't sit in water, and that the soil is loose, not compacted, which can cause damage to the roots. Check for insects, such as aphids, and diseases (such as blueberry stunt or stem blight).