Caption
Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow.
Planting
When to Plant Blueberry Bushes
- Blueberries can be planted in spring—or also in late fall in all but the coldest regions. In Zones 5 and below, it’s best to wait until early to mid-spring to plant.
- If available, 1- to 3-year-old plants are a good choice. These can be bought in containers or bare-root. In either case, buy from a reputable nursery or website.
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
- Select a sunny, sheltered spot. While blueberries tolerate shade, better crops are obtained in the sun. At the same time, they should not be exposed to harsh, drying winds.
- Don’t plant blueberries too close to trees, as the trees will block out sunlight and suck up any moisture in the soil.
- If planting multiple bushes, it’s best to plant them in a group rather than scattered throughout your garden. This will bolster berry production and quality.
- Blueberries are a shallow-rooted plant. Therefore, they require soil that holds moisture but also drains well and doesn’t stay wet. Don’t plant blueberries in sites with heavy, clayey soils that stay wet.
- Blueberries thrive in soil that is acidic. The soil pH should ideally be between 4.0 and 5.0; soil that isn’t acidic enough will stunt growth. Soil can be acidified by mixing a small amount of granulated sulfur into the soil several months before planting. Peat moss and pine bark or pine needles are also good additions that will help acidify your soil.
- Mix organic matter into the soil before you set your blueberry bushes. (See more about preparing soil for planting.)
How to Plant Blueberry Bushes
- Tip: Be careful not to plant them too deep. The root ball should be just below the surface (¼ to ½ inch).
- Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (or about twice as wide and twice as deep as the plant’s roots).
- Space bushes 4–5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and 1 part oak leaf mold, peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
- Set the bush in the hole with the root ball just below the surface with its roots spread out. Pack the hole tightly with the soil.
- Apply fertilizer 1 month after planting, not at the time of planting. Apply ½ ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6 to 12 inches from the crown.
Harvesting
Warning: Blueberries are a favorite snack of hungry birds, so it’s recommended that you protect blueberry bushes ahead of time by draping bird netting over your plants.
How to Harvest Blueberries
- Blueberries are typically ready for picking between June and August.
- Don’t rush to pick the berries as soon as they turn blue. Wait a couple of days. When they are ready, they should fall off right into your hand.
- If you plant 2-year-old blueberry bushes, they should start to bear within a year or two. (Pick off any flowers that form the first year or two after planting to allow the bush to become established.) Be aware that full production is only reached after about 6 years (depending on variety).
How to Store Blueberries
- Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to freeze. Learn how to freeze blueberries so you can have them all winter long.
Types
There are four types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, hybrid half-high, and rabbiteye.
The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely with regard to cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor.
Blueberries are partially self-fertile, so you will harvest more and larger berries by planting two or more varieties together. Planting more than one variety can also extend the harvest season.
First, I would caution against digging under established evergreen trees; it is very difficult, as they have tremendous root zones that require very aggressive measures to get through, which is not good for the trees, and ultimately not good for your blueberries, as they will be competing for room to grow as well as nutrients and moisture. If you can plant them elsewhere, start with two-gallon pots. Plant them in the fall when the weather is cooler. If they are happy, they should fruit the next summer (in time they will likely produce more fruit than during their first season). You would have to plant a whole lot of shrubs to eat a few pounds weekly! Space depending, five to seven plants will give a reasonable yield.
They can take full sun, but do better with a bit of shade. Two-gallon pots are a common size; you will also find 5-gallon pots. You are looking for container plants that are 2 to 3 years old (you can also buy bare-root blueberry shrubs). They won't necessarily do better planted together but by grouping them you are ensuring they have the same soil conditions, and it makes watering both easier and more uniform. When planting, space the shrubs 4 to 6 feet apart (If you go with bare roots, plant them in early spring while plants are still dormant.)
It sounds like they might have Septoria leaf spot disease. Try to keep the foliage as dry as possible (avoid overhead watering) to limit the spread of spores; also remove the most disease-riddled leaves as well as any that have dropped into the soil. This is a difficult disease to manage once spores are in the soil. If the plants continue to succumb, consider replacing them next year with disease-resistant varieties (start with clean soil, i.e. remove what is there and replace with compost-rich, amended soil).
Are the two bushes the same variety? If not, it could be that the other variety has a different, more sour, taste. Flavor will vary between varieties. If your bushes are the same type, was the bitter plant producing an unusually abundant crop of berries? If so, those berries can be bitter. When your bush overproduces, you'll want to be sure to thin the fruit so that the plant can focus on growing fewer berries, and that can help the sweetness. Perhaps another possibility is that the plant is under stress--mechanical injury, disease, environmental, pests, etc. -- check to see if the plant looks healthy overall, including the base of the trunk (to check for any damage to bark by weed trimmers, etc).
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