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Planting and Growing Cantaloupes: Sweet Summer Melons

Botanical Name
Cucumis melo
Grown as
Annual
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
High
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
6-10 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Yellow
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Fragrant
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Resilience
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Fruit
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Nothing whispers summer like a chilled slice of sweet, orange cantaloupe juice dribbling down your chin. 

Good news: These sun-loving melons are easy to grow—and even easier to devour. Let’s get planting!

Cantaloupes are a type of melon with a tan-green rind. Typically, the rind is covered in a spiderweb-like pattern, though some varieties may also be striped. Inside, the flesh is bright orange and sweet. Their growing requirements are similar to those of other popular melons, such as watermelons and honeydew melons.

Cantaloupes sliced

Planting

Plant in a spot that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day) with well-draining soil that’s a mix between loamy and sandy. (Growing the plants in raised rows—a.k.a. “hills”—ensures good drainage.) Amend the soil with aged manure or compost before planting. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Mulching the planting site with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: It will warm the soil ahead of planting, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.

When to Plant Cantaloupes

This warm-season, very tender crop thrives in heat and hates the cold! It thrives in warmer climates with longer growing seasons.

  • It’s best started directly from seed. If you live in a warmer climate, you may direct sow seeds outdoors after all danger of frost is well past and when the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F (21°C).
  • However, if you’re set on growing cantaloupes in a colder region, you can start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after the last spring frost when the soil is at least 70°F (21°C). 

How to Plant Cantaloupes

  • Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 18 inches apart, in hills (or hilled rows) about 3 feet apart.
  • If you have limited space, vines can be trained up a support, such as a trellis.
  • If you plant indoors, use peat pots or soil blocks to avoid root disturbance. Harden off seedlings before transplanting. 

Cantaloupes growing

Growing

  • If a soil test indicates that nutrients are lacking, fertilize with a standard liquid fertilizer when vines start growing and spreading. Later on, avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers, as too much nitrogen can result in lots of foliage and less fruit.
  • Row covers are a good way to keep pests like squash bugs and vine borers at bay.
  • Watering is key. While the plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need about 2 inches per square foot of water (about 1.5 gallons) per week.
    • Water in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves, as wet foliage encourages fungal and other diseases.
    • If possible, use drip irrigation to keep plants consistently and evenly watered.
    • Mulching around the plants can help to retain moisture.
    • Reduce watering once fruits are growing. Hot, dry weather produces the sweetest melons.
    • If you’ve had an exceptional amount of rainfall during the ripening stage, this can cause bland fruit.
  • Once fruit begins to grow, prune end buds off vines. Your plants may produce fewer melons, but they will be larger and of better quality.
  • Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. (Don’t be discouraged when the first blooms do not produce fruit.)
  • As with other cucurbits, melons have flowers that require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
  • If your muskmelons taste bland, the trouble could be a lack of magnesium in sandy soil. Sweeten the fruit by spraying the vines with this solution: Dissolve 6-1/2 tablespoons of Epsom salts and 3-1/3 tablespoons of borax in 5 gallons of water. Spray the foliage when the vines begin to “run” and again when the fruit is about 2 inches in diameter.

Harvesting

How and When to Harvest Cantaloupes

  • When rinds begin to change from green to tan or yellow, the melon is typically ripe enough to pick. Be careful not to pick too early, however.
  • Look for a crack in the stem where it attaches to the fruit. This is a sign of ripeness as well. The fruit should be easy to separate from the vine, but if the fruits fall off by themselves, they are usually overripe.
  • Harvest melons when vines are dry, and be careful not to damage them.
  • Melons will soften after harvesting but will not continue to sweeten off the vine.
  • Cantaloupe can be stored uncut for 5 or 6 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 3 days, wrapped tightly in plastic.

Pests and Problems

Cantaloupe Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers; leaf drop; sticky “honeydew” (excretion) on leaves; sooty, black moldKnock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; inspect new plants carefully; use slow-release fertilizers; avoid excess nitrogen; encourage aphid pests such as lacewings, ladybugs, spiders.
Cucumber beetlesInsectHoles in leaves/flowers; rasped fruit; plants stunted/die; may transmit bacterial wilt (Bacterial wilt signs: wilting; plants die; ends of cut stems, when pressed together for 10 seconds and pulled apart, release stringy, white sap)Handpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt.
Cucumber mosaic virusVirusStunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruitDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids; use mulch.
Fusarium wiltFungusPlants wilt (sometimes on just one side) in daytime; leaves turn yellow (lower ones first); later, entire plant wilts/dies; stunting; stem cross section reveals brown discolorationDestroy infected plants; avoid excessive nitrogen; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; choose resistant varieties; disinfect tools; rotate crops.
Powdery mildewFungusTypically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue.
Squash vine borers (moth & larvae)InsectLarge, wrinkled larvae become orange-red/black, wasp-like, daytime moths; larvae bore into vines; vines wilt suddenly; plants die; mushy area and/or green to orange-yellow, sawdust-like excrement on/near base of plant stemIf detected early, slit infested stem lengthwise halfway to remove borer(s), then bury the cut in moist soil to encourage rooting; wrap seedling stems in aluminum foil collar; catch moths with yellow sticky traps; use row covers if no pests previously, but uncover before flowering; destroy crop residue; rotate crops.

Types

  • ‘Ambrosia’ – 85 days to maturity. Among the sweetest varieties.
  • ‘Athena’ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety that produces large, 5- to 6-pound fruits.
  • ‘Hale’s Best Jumbo’ – 80–90 days to maturity. Produces 3-pound aromatic melons.
  • ‘Minnesota Midget’ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety well-suited for gardens in colder regions. Produces 1-pound, sweetly flavored melons.
  • ‘Bush Star’ – 90 days to maturity. Bush variety suits gardeners with limited space.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Oddly enough, the melon that is commonly referred to as a “cantaloupe” in North America is not a true cantaloupe, which is more common in Europe. In fact, our “cantaloupes” are a type of muskmelon. (True cantaloupe has a rough, warty rind and is not widely grown or commercially available in the U.S. and Canada.) In North America, the names “muskmelon” and “cantaloupe” are used interchangeably, but we refer to this fruit simply as “cantaloupe” on this page to avoid confusion!
  • Cantaloupe was named for Cantalupo, a former papal villa near Rome.

Fruit

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Dolores Walker</span> Sat, 08/10/2013 - 16:46
A volunteer in my garden turned out to be a cantaloupe. It has vines all over the place and at first two cants appeared and grew large swiftly. Recently a third one died when it was about 4-5 inches. The vines are loaded with flowers, and some of them develop into baby cants, but they too die. We've been having vey hot weather, so I've been watering heavily (and incorrectly), and now I wonder if that's my problem. Is it too late to remedy the situation? I really appreciate this site!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 08/12/2013 - 12:51

High heat might have something to do with it; in high heat, the plant is under a lot of stress. Leaves and fruit may develop sunscald (browning).

 

Another possibility is that there is poor pollination. In heat, bees are less active. Sometimes a poorly pollinated plant may develop small or misshapen fruits, or fruits that brown.

 

Overwatering might also be an issue--although you need to make sure the plant gets enough during high heat, it can not sit in water. Let it dry out about an inch or two deep before rewatering; give about 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Cut back on the watering a bit after the fruits appear, to improve flavor.

 

Check for pests and diseases as well--are there any other signs on the leaves, stems, or roots? Holes, browning, off-color, nodules on the roots, etc.?

 

If it is poor pollination, there is time to remedy it, since you still have lots of flowers--there are male and female flowers. Heat stress--it depends on the vigor of the plant, whether it will recover; provide some shade, such as with burlap screens, if you have high temperatures again, and lay down a thick layer of mulch. If you have signs of pests/disease, you might bring a sample in to your local garden center for ID and control options.

 <span>John Charlton</span> Fri, 07/26/2013 - 07:40
Pine bark mulch: _ _ _ I dug up a large area with a backhoe, and mixed in a few bucketloads of creek sand, a little lime and fertilizer. I then covered this with 8 to 12 inches of composted pine bark mulch (from a logging operation... There was originally a lot of leaves and wood chips in it..) The melon seeds were started indoors. I planted the seedlings in the mulch by making a little hole all the way down to the dirt beneath, and adding in a little potting soil... The seedlings were placed in there. These vines are going nuts! There are zillions of flowers starting to set fruit,. The pine bark may be a good alternative to the 'plastic'. In my past experiences, pine bark supports very little mold or fungus etc. I have not watered this patch at all.
<span>Nick A</span> Sat, 07/20/2013 - 06:58
I have cantaloupe growing from the vine. I heard that you should put the lopes on a flat stone and turn them every so often is that true and at what size should I do that,also should I put more fertilizer in the dirt and can I use manure.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 07/22/2013 - 10:37

Yes, you could gently place ripening fruit on mulch or a stone or flower pot so it isn't on the soil; this may help prevent rot and deter pests. There isn't a rule about "when" -- perhaps wait until it's half-way to harvesting size. After your initial fertilization at planting, we would only side dress with a nitrogen fertilizer (21-0-0) after the vines develop runners. Use one to two tablespoons per plant or mound at least 6 inches away from the plants.

 <span>Pam Duncan</span> Wed, 07/17/2013 - 08:43
Hi, I have the Hearts of Gold muskmelon and the melons are about 3 pounds now; however, they are more football shaped than a ball, the rind is white (not yellow or green), netting is nowhere near pronounced, and the ribbing is very deep. No crack on the stem. They are a little smaller than a kid's sized soccer ball and have been this way for over 3 weeks now. Is this normal? Will they ripen soon?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 07/17/2013 - 12:23

Hearts of Gold melons are normally 3.5 to 4.5 pounds. Odd-shaped fruit is generally caused by growing conditions. Bees must deposit pollen on all three lobes of the female flower’s stigma or a misshapen melon develops. Sometimes cold, rainy, or windy weather affects or reduces bee activity. 
Fortunately, your melons are close to the right size (3.5 to 4.5 pounds).
Have your melons reached their "days to maturity"?
Let the melons fully ripen before you pick them to get that last surge of flavor. Be patient.
You'll know when it's ripe as the stem will start to separate from the fruit--and then separate cleanly.
The rind will change color and the melons will develop a strong scent at the blossom end, and the leaf closest to the fruit will fade to yellow.
Leave your melons on the vine until they are truly ripe!

 <span>Jn_10768</span> Thu, 07/11/2013 - 12:37
if the runners from one vine are wrapping around and grabbing one of the other cantaloupe plants ,will that choke the plant out (so to speak)or do any harm. also is it causing TOO MUCH damage if u pinch the lil grabber vine off
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 07/15/2013 - 10:11
We generally do not prune cantaloupe vines at all. The grabber vines are there for the melon to support itself. Let nature take its course.
<span>Dee H</span> Sun, 07/07/2013 - 21:41
We landed a lot of muskmelon seeds in a small area, they are growing up very close , should we thin them,? Or will they all grow ok?