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Growing Corn
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Sweet Corn
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Sweet Corn
Pixabay
Sweet corn is an annual crop with yellow, white, or bi-colored ears. A long, frost-free growing season is necessary. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest corn in your garden.
Sweet corn is wind-pollinated, so it should be planted in blocks, rather than in single rows. Early, mid, and late-season varieties extend the harvest, but be mindful: if you miss the optimal harvest time, the corn’s flavor will go downhill fast, as sugars convert to starch.
Planting
When to Plant Corn
- Plant seeds outdoors approximately two weeks after the last spring frost date. Consult our Planting Calendar (above) to see suggested planting dates for your region.
- It’s important to get corn planted as soon as possible, since it requires a fairly long growing period with warm weather. If you live in an area with a shorter growing season, choose an early variety that will mature well before the first fall frost.
- Make sure the soil temperature is above 60°F (16°C) for successful germination. (Up to 65°F/18°C for super sweet varieties.) In colder zones, the ground can be warmed by a black plastic cover, if necessary. Plant seeds through holes in the plastic.
- A couple weeks after planting your first round of corn, plant another crop to extend the harvest.
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
- Corn plants are picky about their soil. Work in aged manure or compost the fall before planting and let it overwinter in the soil.
- The soil should be well-draining, but must be able to hold some moisture. Corn tends to use a lot of water.
- For sufficient pollination, plan your plot right. Instead of planting two long rows of corn, plant “blocks” of corn at least four rows deep. This ensures that the corn—which is pollinated by wind—has a greater chance of producing viable ears.
How to Plant Corn
- Starting corn seeds indoors is not recommended. It’s best to start them directly in the garden so that their roots aren’t disturbed due to transplanting.
- Plant seeds 1.5 to 2 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
- Rows should be spaced 30 to 36 inches apart.
- You may choose to fertilize at planting time; corn is meant to grow rapidly. If you are confident that the soil is adequate, this can be skipped.
- Water well at planting time.
Care
How to Grow Corn
- When your plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them so they are 8 to 12 inches apart.
- Be careful not to damage the roots when weeding.
- In dry conditions, be sure to keep corn well watered due to its shallow roots. Water at a rate of 5 gallons per sq. yard.
- Mulch helps reduce evaporation.
Pests/Diseases
Corn plants are susceptible to several common garden pests:
- Raccoons
- Deer
- Spotted Cucumber Beetles
- Flea Beetles
- Cutworms
Harvest/Storage
How to Harvest Corn
- Harvest when tassels begin to turn brown and cobs start to swell. Kernels should be full and milky.
- Pull ears downward and twist to take off stalk.
- Sweet corn varieties begin to lose their sweetness soon after harvesting, so use them as soon as possible.
- Prepare for eating or preserving immediately after picking.
How to Store Corn
- Sweet corn freezes well, especially if removed from ears before freezing. Learn how to properly freeze corn.
- Corn kernels can also be harvested for other purposes, like corn-filled therapy packs.
Recommended Varieties
There are three types of sweet corn: Normal, sugar-enhanced, and supersweet. Each one contains a different level of sucrose, changing the flavor and texture of the corn. Sweeter varieties will stay sweeter for longer after harvest.
- ‘Iochief’: midseason, normal-sugar variety. Yellow.
- ‘Silver Queen’: normal sugar-variety. Resistant to some bacterial diseases. White.
- ‘Sweet Sunshine’: supersweet variety, disease resistant, high yield. Yellow.
- ‘Argent’: sugar-enhanced variety, good taste. White.
Corn can be a feast for the eyes, too! Look for these ornamental varieties:
- ‘Glass Gem’: Sporting multi-colored, semi-transparent kernels, this is a favorite for kids.
- ‘Painted Mountain’: Looking for the classic “maize” colors? This variety has a great diversity of natural tones.
Wit & Wisdom
- Baby corn is produced from regular corn plants that are harvested early, while the ears are immature. Regular sweet corn, sugar-enhanced sweet corn, and supersweet corn varieties can be used, along with a few varieties that are specific for baby corn.
- If your corn shucks harder than usual, prepare for a cold winter.
- Corn is one of the Three Sisters; its growing style pairs perfectly with beans and squash. Learn more about companion planting.
- Corn is great for eating but also has so many other uses including medicinal. Learn more about corn for natural health.
- Learn more fun, witty facts about corn.
Recipes
Cooking Notes
- If too much hot pepper or spice has been added to a soup or stew, adding a can of sweet corn can help.
- Popcorn is also a favorite snack if you have leftover kernels. Learn how to make homemade popcorn here.
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Reader Comments
Leave a Comment
Overwintering corn?
My husband and I have grown corn for over 5 years now, and we always miss a few ears of corn that end up overwintering in our garden. Without fail, each year in the springtime, the corn kernels on the ears of corn that overwintered begin to grow plants of their own. The plants begin growing much earlier than what we would normally plant our own corn, and the plants seem to be much healthier (thicker stalks, greener leaves, etc.). My question is this: Have you ever heard of farmers planting corn kernels in the late fall/early winter for a crop the following summer? Given what you know of corn, do you think there is merit to planting in this manner?
Growing zone
I forgot to mention - we live in Growing zone 3-4 (right on the border of the two zones).
Too Late for this Year?
Hi! I live in the Shenandoah Valley, I think my zone is 6b. I wanted to direct sow some corn weeks ago, but of course things came up and I waited and now I feel like it may be too late. The variety I have is Ashworth, and it says on the packet it takes 69 days. Does that mean that if I plant it tomorrow, I'd have corn by August 4? Or just a decent-sized plant? Or is it too late to plant them? My grandma used to say that when the oak leaves are as big as a squirrel's ear, that's when you plant your corn...the squirrels would have very large dumbo ears at this point in time. Secondary question: I have black walnut trees around my house, and I think corn is supposed to be resistant to the toxin they produce. But would I be better off planting in containers? Thanks for the help!
Planting Corn
Generally, you’d want to plant corn between mid-April and mid-May, depending on how the weather is in spring. The soil should be warmed to around 60°F, in any case. The days to maturity is just that: the days it takes for the plant to reach maturity and start producing. If you start it now, you should expect harvestable corn by the end of August. So, in your case, it’s not too late to plant, and you may even be able to sneak in a second harvest before frost if you plant another round of seeds in a week or so. (Find your frost dates here.)
As for your second question, you are correct: corn is resistant to juglone, the toxic substance produced by black walnut trees. Feel free to plant it in the ground!
Corm Pests
One pest not mentioned is squirrels. Last year, they got more corn than I did! I tried taping mouse traps to the ears and laying traps around the corn, but they managed to get past them. finally, (and I know the animal rights wackos won't like this) but, I borrowed some live traps from a neighbor and caught over twenty. That turned out to be a pain; they had to be driven out of town and released or shot; or drowned at home in a trash can full of water. I ended up getting a .22 cal. pellet gun and started shooting them at the bird feeders. Easy and effective.
Wackos Indeed
Fortunately most of us who garden are not Animal Rights Wackos as Billybob suggests- but we do respect nature and part of nature is wildlife. We try not to get so obsessed with every little creature that wanders into our gardens. So what if the squirrels eat a little of your corn or a few insects devour some greenery, just plant a little extra for them. Running around with a BB Gun shooting everything that approaches your garden seems a little wacko to me.
Pollination
I've planted corn a few times, here and there, and had not luck. Last year, I tried again after doing some research. As the article mentions, corn is wind pollinated and I don't have enough space to plant in large blocks. It is necessary to pollinate by hand. To do this, carefully slip a small paper bag over the tassels and secure with a binder clip or some such thing. Leave over night. The next day, carefully remove the bag, so as not to spill the pollen that has accumulated, inside. Using an artists brush, transfer the pollen to the silk of each ear. Do this when the ears begin to form and silk has appeared.
pollination bagger
Everyone has their methods, but as you mentioned, corn is wind pollinated and in my honest opinion bagging and painting pollen is not necessary and a complete waste of time. All one needs to do in Billyboy Baggins case is walk/reach into your corn patch and shake the darn things, which is precisely what the wind does. Best of luck!
Volunteer corn and beans
I recently put St. Augustine sod in an small area of yard behind my house that is fenced off from our dogs. About a week after laying the sod I noticed three corn stalks beginning to grow as well as three bean sprouts along the border on each side of the sod. Two of the corn stalks are right up next to a concrete block and the other right next to some large rocks I have bordering grape vines. The corn stalks are about eight to ten inches tall now and I'm wondering if I should try to move them to a place where they will have more room to grow. I would like to see if they actually produce corn but don't want to damage them. Do you have any suggestions?
Corn
You can transplant at that stage. Better before now - so protect it from the sun and water well.
You must live a lot further
You must live a lot further south than do I!
Duh, now I see your comment
Duh, now I see your comment is from last year!
Concerning yard lights and the effects it may have on my garden
It's May of 2018 and we just moved into a new house. I'm very determined to have a vegetable garden this year as I have always been raised to have one but new environments present new problems. My neighbor has a giant yard light on the pole that sits directly between our back yards as well as one in the front near our street. The red lighting covers every inch of my property and I was just wondering will the lighting have any kind of effect on my corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, and speckled beans? The spot where I plan on putting my rows will be roughly 50 to 60 ft away from the source of light. Any feedback will be much appreciated thanks.
Red Lights
Don’t fret! It’s unlikely that the light is strong enough to have any real effect on your garden, as long as the garden is getting full sun otherwise. And even if it were strong enough to have an effect, light that’s in the red wavelength promotes blooming and fruiting in plants, which is a good thing for crops.
I think I messed up
OK I bought corn kernels to plant and just did it today but I must have misread the label and planted my corn at 6 inches will it survive and germinate on time, die, or survive but not germinate on time. Not just this but the label on the bag says sell by December 2017 and now its April 23 2018 will it be ok and does the label even matter to me or just the seller.
Corn Planting Depth
Six inches is too deep for corn—2 inches is generally the best depth to plant the kernels at. Since you only planted them yesterday, there’s still time to dig them up and replant them a little shallower. They shouldn’t have any trouble germinating after being replanted.
As for the Sell By date, don’t worry about that! Corn kernels can remain viable for years if stored properly (in a freezer), so a few months past their Sell By date won’t affect them at all.
Eating mature sweet corn that has been "frosted"
I've been told that humans cannot eat corn once the frost has hit in the fall. Is this true and if so, why?
The Effects of Frost on Corn
Hi Janell,
That is not true. If the corn has not matured by the time a late-season frost hits, the plants and cobs can be damaged and result in the death of the plant or poor-tasting corn. You can still eat it, but it may not taste very good.
corn
Hi - this is my 1st time growing corn, and have run into a problem. The leaves look "rusty" and the stalks have some rusty looking spots. What to do, and are the ears, that are almost ripe, be saved? Thanks!
Rust-Infected Corn
Hi Sandy,
It sounds like your corn is infected with rust, a fungus disease that can greatly reduce the yield of your crops. There’s not much you can do at this point in preventing the rust, but the ears of corn can be eaten safely, though they may be poor-tasting depending on if the rust infected the ears specifically.
growing corn
I have shoots coming up on outside of corn stalks. Why and what should I do about it?
Secondary Corn Stalks: "Tillers"
Small shoots that appear alongside the base of a primary corn stalk are known as “tillers.” These secondary stalks are actually a good sign; they mean that your plant is healthy and your soil is well-conditioned. Tillers are not an issue and generally won’t compete significantly with the central stalk, but if you’d like to be sure, you can simply cut them off at their bases.
Pruning Sweet Corn
I am thinking about planting corn and I have done enough research to allow me to speak pidgeon corn.
After much of the research I have done on sweet corn, I have found that a stalk will produce between one and two usable cobs, in the variety I am planting. And may produce other non-usable cobs.
I was wondering, If I trim off all but two baby cobs as the stalk is growing, will the plant put more energy into the two remaining cobs giving me a better chance of producing two good cobs per plant.
Or would it not make a difference and I may actually trim off what would become one of my two good cobs?
Thank You for any help you can offer.
an ear for corn
David, We must be perfectly honest with you: After the research you say you have done, you have much more knowledge about corn than we do! But we will concur with you, based on the (il)logical comparison to peaches, with which we have some knowledge (but, it must to said, not much luck). Peach growers are advised to remove/prune small fruits to allow a smaller but better harvest. We think that the same would apply to corn. And it seems to apply to other plants, such as melons and pumpkin. After all, if the plant puts its energy into the remaining “fruit” (or ears, in this case), wouldn’t it be as good as it can be?! Assuming every other aspect of the growing conditions are favorable, of course. We say, trim the ears off those stalks! And, if you feel it might be of value, leave a few stalks alone; don’t trim them, and see, come fall, which method seems most productive.
And let us know how this goes, would you?
Crows and critters ate the seed Corn
I know it's not Recommended to start Sweet Corn indoors, but in recent years I have seen it in market pack for sale as transplants And questioned why at the time. BUT Last year the crows got most of my seed. Would planting seed in the netted expanding peat disks 2-3 weeks before time to plant outdoors stunt the plants? I have an adequate light setup for tomatoes and peppers, etc. I think it would at least let them germinate, Could I plant them at 4 inches high without problems, or will I fail to get corn if I do?
transplanting corn
The success of transplanting corn depends on several factors, including temperature, light, soil fertility, variety, container depth (to allow the seedlings to grow deep roots), giving seedlings time to harden off, not allowing them to grow too much before transplanting (2 to 3 weeks is likely OK), etc. However, it has been done with success. You may find the following article, by the Vermont Cooperative Extension, helpful, about one commercial grower’s experience.
http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/transplantingsweetcorn.html
Good luck!
Crows stealing corn seeds
At one time, I used a product called "Stanley's Crow Repellent" which came in a small tin can and it resembled a thin tar-like substance. You coated the seed with it and the crows wouldn't touch it. I found it at Agway. It had an EPA registration number, but it was cancelled in 1986 from what I can find.
I use "Bill's Crow Repellent"
I use "Bill's Crow Repellent". I comes in 12 gauge and 20 gauge! :)
Crow repellant
We run a string over the top of the corn rows until the corn is several inches high. The birds won't go under the string to get the plants.
Transplanting corn
Hello, I've grown sweetcorn on my UK alottment for the last two years with the following slightly different methods:
Year 1: Sowing seeds in small hand made paper pots approx 1.5inch diameter, germinating in dark very warm cupboard. Out onto window sill, to get the light, as soon as the shoot shows through the compost. Keep on the window sill until about 2 inches tall. Transplant into 3 inch pots and back to the window sill until about 5-6 inches tall. Then out to small 'cold frame' in the garden until 16 or so inches tall. Then the weather was warm enough for them to go out into the ground on the alottment.
Year 2: Sowing seeds in 3 inch pots, germinating in dark very warm cupboard. Out onto window sill to get the light as soon as the shoot shows through the compost. Keep on the window sill until about 5-6 inches tall. Then out to small 'cold frame' in the garden for a couple of weeks to get them used to the cooler temperatures. Then out to our 'poly tunnel' at the alottment (very warm enclosure) for a few weeks. Then, when they were 16 inches or so and the weather was warm enough, they went into the ground on the alottment.
Windows in the back of the house have light until mid-day, ones in the front have sun later in the day so no more than 50% daylight for each set - I wonder what they would be like if they had sun all day. (temps 15-20 C)
Cold frame in the garden has direct sunlight for only 2/3 day with direct sunlight the temp rises to 30 C+. (I hope I don't forget to open the top when it's sunny - it got to 54 C one day just a month ago and I almost lost my tomatoes...)
Lots of indoor growing for us due to lower temps earlier in the year. Plenty of corn both years - first year we grew 40 plants, year 2 was 70 plants, this year we're going for a round hundred.
A lot of varying info but I wanted to show you how hardy they can be with temps and transplanting. I still have sweetcorn in the freezer from last year and I have just potted my first seeds for this year. Good luck, Rob.
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