Get a Free Garden Planner Trial!
Try out our Garden Planner with a free 7-day trial—ample time to plan your dream garden!
Growing Corn
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Sweet Corn
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Sweet Corn
Sweet corn is an annual with yellow, white, and bi-colored ears. A long, frost-free growing season is necessary. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest corn in your garden.
Sweet corn is wind-pollinated, so it should be planted in blocks, rather than in single rows. Early, mid, and late-season varieties extend the harvest. If you miss the optimal harvest time, the corn’s flavor will go downhill fast, as sugars convert to starch.
Planting
How to Plant Corn
- Corn plants are picky about their soil. Work in aged manure or compost the fall before planting and let it overwinter in the soil.
- Starting corn seeds indoors is not recommended.
- Plant seeds outdoors two weeks after the last spring frost date.
- Make sure the soil temperature is above 60°F (16°C) for successful germination. (Up to 65°F/18°C for super sweet varieties.) In colder zones, the ground can be warmed by a black plastic cover if necessary. Plant seeds through holes in the plastic.
- Plant seeds 1.5 to 2 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. Rows 30 to 36 inches apart.
- For sufficient pollination, plan your plot right. Don’t plant two long rows, rather, plant corn blocks of at least four rows.
- You may choose to fertilize at planting time; corn is meant to grow rapidly. If you are confident that the soil is adequate, this can be skipped.
- Water well at planting time.
Care
How to Grow Corn
- When your plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them so they are 8 to 12 inches apart.
- Be careful not to damage the roots when weeding.
- Soil must be well drained and able to keep consistent moisture.
- In dry conditions, be sure to keep corn well watered due to its shallow roots. Water at a rate of 5 gallons per sq yard. Mulch helps reduce evaporation.
Pests/Diseases
Corn plants are susceptible to several common garden pests:
- Raccoons
- Deer
- Spotted Cucumber Beetles
- Flea Beetles
- Cutworms
Harvest/Storage
How to Harvest Corn
- Harvest when tassels begin to turn brown and cobs start to swell. Kernels should be full and milky.
- Pull ears downward and twist to take off stalk.
- Sweet corn varieties lose their sweetness soon after harvesting.
- Prepare for eating or preserving immediately after picking.
- Sweet corn freezes well, especially if removed from ears before freezing. Learn how to properly freeze corn.
- Corn kernels can also be harvested for other purposes, like corn-filled therapy packs.
Recommended Varieties
There are three types of sweet corn: Normal, sugar-enhanced, and super sweet. Each one contains a different level of sucrose, changing the flavor and texture of the corn. Sweeter varieties will stay sweeter for longer after harvest.
- ‘Iochief’: Midseason, normal-sugar variety. Yellow.
- ‘Silver Queen’: normal sugar-variety. Resistant to some bacterial diseases. White.
- ‘Sweet Sunshine’: supersweet variety, disease resistant, high yield. Yellow.
- ‘Argent’: sugar-enhanced variety, good taste. White.
Wit & Wisdom
- Baby corn is produced from regular corn plants that are harvested early, while the ears are immature. Regular sweet corn, sugar-enhanced sweet corn, and supersweet corn varieties can be used, along with a few varieties that are specific for baby corn.
- If your corn shucks harder than usual, prepare for a cold winter.
- Corn is one of the Three Sisters; its growing style pairs perfectly with beans and squash. Learn more about companion planting.
- Corn is great for eating but also has so many other uses including medicinal. Learn more about corn for natural health.
- Learn more fun, witty facts about corn.
Recipes
Cooking Notes
If too much hot pepper or spice has been added to a soup or stew, adding a can of sweet corn can help.
Popcorn is also a favorite snack if you have leftover kernels. Learn how to make homemade popcorn here.
What do you want to read next?
FREE BEGINNER'S GARDEN GUIDE!
BONUS: You’ll also receive our Almanac Companion newsletter!
Reader Comments
Leave a Comment
Corm Pests
One pest not mentioned is squirrels. Last year, they got more corn than I did! I tried taping mouse traps to the ears and laying traps around the corn, but they managed to get past them. finally, (and I know the animal rights wackos won't like this) but, I borrowed some live traps from a neighbor and caught over twenty. That turned out to be a pain; they had to be driven out of town and released or shot; or drowned at home in a trash can full of water. I ended up getting a .22 cal. pellet gun and started shooting them at the bird feeders. Easy and effective.
Pollination
I've planted corn a few times, here and there, and had not luck. Last year, I tried again after doing some research. As the article mentions, corn is wind pollinated and I don't have enough space to plant in large blocks. It is necessary to pollinate by hand. To do this, carefully slip a small paper bag over the tassels and secure with a binder clip or some such thing. Leave over night. The next day, carefully remove the bag, so as not to spill the pollen that has accumulated, inside. Using an artists brush, transfer the pollen to the silk of each ear. Do this when the ears begin to form and silk has appeared.
Volunteer corn and beans
I recently put St. Augustine sod in an small area of yard behind my house that is fenced off from our dogs. About a week after laying the sod I noticed three corn stalks beginning to grow as well as three bean sprouts along the border on each side of the sod. Two of the corn stalks are right up next to a concrete block and the other right next to some large rocks I have bordering grape vines. The corn stalks are about eight to ten inches tall now and I'm wondering if I should try to move them to a place where they will have more room to grow. I would like to see if they actually produce corn but don't want to damage them. Do you have any suggestions?
Corn
You can transplant at that stage. Better before now - so protect it from the sun and water well.
You must live a lot further
You must live a lot further south than do I!
Duh, now I see your comment
Duh, now I see your comment is from last year!
Concerning yard lights and the effects it may have on my garden
It's May of 2018 and we just moved into a new house. I'm very determined to have a vegetable garden this year as I have always been raised to have one but new environments present new problems. My neighbor has a giant yard light on the pole that sits directly between our back yards as well as one in the front near our street. The red lighting covers every inch of my property and I was just wondering will the lighting have any kind of effect on my corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, and speckled beans? The spot where I plan on putting my rows will be roughly 50 to 60 ft away from the source of light. Any feedback will be much appreciated thanks.
Red Lights
Don’t fret! It’s unlikely that the light is strong enough to have any real effect on your garden, as long as the garden is getting full sun otherwise. And even if it were strong enough to have an effect, light that’s in the red wavelength promotes blooming and fruiting in plants, which is a good thing for crops.
I think I messed up
OK I bought corn kernels to plant and just did it today but I must have misread the label and planted my corn at 6 inches will it survive and germinate on time, die, or survive but not germinate on time. Not just this but the label on the bag says sell by December 2017 and now its April 23 2018 will it be ok and does the label even matter to me or just the seller.
Corn Planting Depth
Six inches is too deep for corn—2 inches is generally the best depth to plant the kernels at. Since you only planted them yesterday, there’s still time to dig them up and replant them a little shallower. They shouldn’t have any trouble germinating after being replanted.
As for the Sell By date, don’t worry about that! Corn kernels can remain viable for years if stored properly (in a freezer), so a few months past their Sell By date won’t affect them at all.
Eating mature sweet corn that has been "frosted"
I've been told that humans cannot eat corn once the frost has hit in the fall. Is this true and if so, why?
The Effects of Frost on Corn
Hi Janell,
That is not true. If the corn has not matured by the time a late-season frost hits, the plants and cobs can be damaged and result in the death of the plant or poor-tasting corn. You can still eat it, but it may not taste very good.
corn
Hi - this is my 1st time growing corn, and have run into a problem. The leaves look "rusty" and the stalks have some rusty looking spots. What to do, and are the ears, that are almost ripe, be saved? Thanks!
Rust-Infected Corn
Hi Sandy,
It sounds like your corn is infected with rust, a fungus disease that can greatly reduce the yield of your crops. There’s not much you can do at this point in preventing the rust, but the ears of corn can be eaten safely, though they may be poor-tasting depending on if the rust infected the ears specifically.
growing corn
I have shoots coming up on outside of corn stalks. Why and what should I do about it?
Secondary Corn Stalks: "Tillers"
Small shoots that appear alongside the base of a primary corn stalk are known as “tillers.” These secondary stalks are actually a good sign; they mean that your plant is healthy and your soil is well-conditioned. Tillers are not an issue and generally won’t compete significantly with the central stalk, but if you’d like to be sure, you can simply cut them off at their bases.
Pruning Sweet Corn
I am thinking about planting corn and I have done enough research to allow me to speak pidgeon corn.
After much of the research I have done on sweet corn, I have found that a stalk will produce between one and two usable cobs, in the variety I am planting. And may produce other non-usable cobs.
I was wondering, If I trim off all but two baby cobs as the stalk is growing, will the plant put more energy into the two remaining cobs giving me a better chance of producing two good cobs per plant.
Or would it not make a difference and I may actually trim off what would become one of my two good cobs?
Thank You for any help you can offer.
an ear for corn
David, We must be perfectly honest with you: After the research you say you have done, you have much more knowledge about corn than we do! But we will concur with you, based on the (il)logical comparison to peaches, with which we have some knowledge (but, it must to said, not much luck). Peach growers are advised to remove/prune small fruits to allow a smaller but better harvest. We think that the same would apply to corn. And it seems to apply to other plants, such as melons and pumpkin. After all, if the plant puts its energy into the remaining “fruit” (or ears, in this case), wouldn’t it be as good as it can be?! Assuming every other aspect of the growing conditions are favorable, of course. We say, trim the ears off those stalks! And, if you feel it might be of value, leave a few stalks alone; don’t trim them, and see, come fall, which method seems most productive.
And let us know how this goes, would you?
Crows and critters ate the seed Corn
I know it's not Recommended to start Sweet Corn indoors, but in recent years I have seen it in market pack for sale as transplants And questioned why at the time. BUT Last year the crows got most of my seed. Would planting seed in the netted expanding peat disks 2-3 weeks before time to plant outdoors stunt the plants? I have an adequate light setup for tomatoes and peppers, etc. I think it would at least let them germinate, Could I plant them at 4 inches high without problems, or will I fail to get corn if I do?
transplanting corn
The success of transplanting corn depends on several factors, including temperature, light, soil fertility, variety, container depth (to allow the seedlings to grow deep roots), giving seedlings time to harden off, not allowing them to grow too much before transplanting (2 to 3 weeks is likely OK), etc. However, it has been done with success. You may find the following article, by the Vermont Cooperative Extension, helpful, about one commercial grower’s experience.
http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/transplantingsweetcorn.html
Good luck!
Crows stealing corn seeds
At one time, I used a product called "Stanley's Crow Repellent" which came in a small tin can and it resembled a thin tar-like substance. You coated the seed with it and the crows wouldn't touch it. I found it at Agway. It had an EPA registration number, but it was cancelled in 1986 from what I can find.
I use "Bill's Crow Repellent"
I use "Bill's Crow Repellent". I comes in 12 gauge and 20 gauge! :)
Transplanting corn
Hello, I've grown sweetcorn on my UK alottment for the last two years with the following slightly different methods:
Year 1: Sowing seeds in small hand made paper pots approx 1.5inch diameter, germinating in dark very warm cupboard. Out onto window sill, to get the light, as soon as the shoot shows through the compost. Keep on the window sill until about 2 inches tall. Transplant into 3 inch pots and back to the window sill until about 5-6 inches tall. Then out to small 'cold frame' in the garden until 16 or so inches tall. Then the weather was warm enough for them to go out into the ground on the alottment.
Year 2: Sowing seeds in 3 inch pots, germinating in dark very warm cupboard. Out onto window sill to get the light as soon as the shoot shows through the compost. Keep on the window sill until about 5-6 inches tall. Then out to small 'cold frame' in the garden for a couple of weeks to get them used to the cooler temperatures. Then out to our 'poly tunnel' at the alottment (very warm enclosure) for a few weeks. Then, when they were 16 inches or so and the weather was warm enough, they went into the ground on the alottment.
Windows in the back of the house have light until mid-day, ones in the front have sun later in the day so no more than 50% daylight for each set - I wonder what they would be like if they had sun all day. (temps 15-20 C)
Cold frame in the garden has direct sunlight for only 2/3 day with direct sunlight the temp rises to 30 C+. (I hope I don't forget to open the top when it's sunny - it got to 54 C one day just a month ago and I almost lost my tomatoes...)
Lots of indoor growing for us due to lower temps earlier in the year. Plenty of corn both years - first year we grew 40 plants, year 2 was 70 plants, this year we're going for a round hundred.
A lot of varying info but I wanted to show you how hardy they can be with temps and transplanting. I still have sweetcorn in the freezer from last year and I have just potted my first seeds for this year. Good luck, Rob.
Corn
I grow corn in Qld Australia. Late summer (Feb) to early summer (Dec). Temps can range from summer 20 min to 34 max to winter 4-10 min to 22-25 max in winter. No frosts. I sow direct into damp soil with a light watering and do not water for 3-4 days, then only a light sprinkle. Corn grows really quickly. I use to plant corn seedlings between 2-6" high and would have to pull the plants apart to plant them - many bare rooted - no soil around the roots. Plant late afternoon. Good watering the first week and away they went.
In response to CarolinaGardener
Hi! I too am from the Carolina and have been toiling in the garden for over 20 years. I always get my crops up in a rather unconventional way. I use the method of indoor to outdoor transplanting on beans, corn, tomatoes, etc. by getting them up in 16 FL. Oz Styrofoam cups using a mixture of 50% Jiffy Seed Starter soil and 50% Bacto Soil. I use a toothpick and poke plenty of holes in the bottom as well as the sides. Not only are the many tiny holes for water drainage but they also provide ample amounts of excess oxygen to the roots ( something the conventional means of planting does not provide ). Once everything is sprouted and growing good at around 7 to 8 inches ( given there's no fear of another frost ) I go ahead and transplant them outside. When transplanting plants or for that matter anything you need to make sure to not damage the roots which will sometimes stunt the plants growth. To do this simply water the the cups and let them soak up the water ensuring that the grow medium isn't too dry in turn resulting in a compact cup shaped plug of root and soil. Never transplant in the middle of the day. Best to do this process either early on in the day or later in the evening but regardless of the time always, always, always remember to adequately water the plants once they're in the ground. Transplanting has always been my method of choice because you take away all the unexpected variables that nature can throw at you. Hope this was helpful!
Corn
Just leave the corn plants alone. The size of the cobs will depend on how fertile the soil is and the water you apply. I plant my corn in good rich soil. I apply some fertiliser down each side of the row when plants are about 12-18" high and I then hill the soil up the plant. A good watering each second day. Cobs 8-9" long. Qld Australia.
First time garden
I'm going to plant a 2 by 6 foot block. I'm going to grow peas around the stalks and zucchini at the base. Does this make sense? Do you have any recommendations or tips?
Corn
Grow each crop in separate areas. Over cropping will deplete the soil nutrients. Tall plants will shade the smaller plants and stunt them. Plants need sunlight.
corn and potatoes
I have a big potato patch on the north side my garden, about 10'x10'. Can I plant corn in this patch in between my potato rows, or does corn need more space? I've tried growing corn three summers now, and never get good results. I don't want to devote so much space to a crop that might not grow, so I want to plant it where I've already got something going (in case its another failed experiment). But will it hurt my potatoes?
corn and potatoes
As far as companion plants, corn and potatoes do fine, although corn is a heavy feeder, while potatoes are medium feeders and do better without as much nitrogen (which encourages foliage rather than tuber formation). However, the other thing to keep in mind is the height of the corn. Plant them on the north side of the garden, so that they don’t shade the shorter potato plants too much. Also, corn, which is wind pollinated, does nicely in the garden when planted in blocks rather than rows.
Pages