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How to Grow Figs: A Beginner’s Guide to Planting, Caring for, and Harvesting Fig Trees

fig fruit on a table, one cut open
Image Credit:
Katrin Shine
Botanical Name
Ficus carica
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
8a
8b
9a
9b
10a
10b
11a
11b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
10–20 feet
Spread
10-20 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Alkaline
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Low Maintenance
Attracts Pollinators
Attracts Songbirds
Resilience
Drought-Tolerant
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Fruit
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Fig-get about fussy fruit trees—figs are surprisingly easy to grow! With their lush leaves and candy-sweet fruit, fig trees bring a taste of the tropics to your backyard, patio, or even sunny windowsill. 

Whether you’re in a warm zone or bracing for winter chills, we’ll show you how to grow this ancient superfruit right at home. Let’s get figgy with it!

Figs thrive in areas with long and hot summers (Zones 8 and warmer), though they can also be grown in colder zones if properly insulated from freezing temperatures or grown in containers and brought indoors.

The common fig tree (Ficus carica) is the most popular fig species for home gardeners because its flowers do not require pollination to yield figs. Many varieties of the common fig tree exist, including hardy cultivars that can be grown outdoors in slightly cooler climates (Zones 6 and 7).

Planting

Figs can be planted outdoors without much trouble in Zone 8 and warmer. In zones where winter temperatures get colder than 10°F (-12 °C) for periods of time, be sure to choose a hardy fig variety.

When to Plant Fig Trees

Plant fig trees outdoors in the early spring or late fall when they are dormant. Alternatively, figs can be grown in large containers and brought inside for the winter.

How to Plant Fig Trees

  • For container fig trees, grow them in a soil-based potting mix and add fine bark chips to improve drainage. Keep the tree in full sun in the summer. In the spring and summer, be sure to add a high-nitrogen fertilizer every 4 weeks and water the tree moderately. In the winter, move the tree indoors and keep the soil moist.
  • For outdoor fig trees, plant the tree in the spring or early fall in full sun. Fig trees can grow in most types of soil as long as the soil is well-draining and contains plenty of organic material. (Learn more about organic soil amendments.)
  • Space fig trees at least 20 feet away from buildings or other trees.
  • If given the chance, fig trees put down deep roots, so bear that in mind when choosing a planting spot.
  • To plant container-grown trees in the ground:
    1. Remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
    2. Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
    3. Plant the tree 2 to 4 inches deeper than it was originally in the pot (check the color of the trunk to see the original soil line).

Fig tree and fig fruit

Growing

Caring for Fig Trees

  • Water young fig trees regularly to help them become established. In areas with dry climates, water fig trees deeply at least once a week.
  • Unless grown in containers, most fig trees do not require regular fertilization. However, if your fig tree is not growing much (less than 12 inches in one growing season), you can add 1/2 to 1 pound of nitrogen supplement. Divide up the nitrogen into 3 to 4 feedings. Start applying the nitrogen in late winter and end in midsummer.
  • You can also apply a layer of mulch around the tree to help prevent weeds and keep moisture in the roots.
  • Fig trees require little pruning. During the dormant season, be sure to remove all dead, diseased, or weak branches to encourage growth.
  • If you have an abundant growth of figs, you can thin the fruit to encourage larger figs.
  • In colder regions, bring container-grown fig trees indoors for the winter. Keep the soil moist.
  • If your area experiences a particularly cold winter, fig trees planted outdoors may die back to the ground. If the tree is of a hardy variety, its belowground areas will likely be unaffected. Remove all dead wood while the tree is still dormant, and watch for new growth in the spring. 

Harvesting

Harvesting Figs

  • You should harvest figs only when they are fully ripe, as they will not continue to ripen off the tree. The figs should be fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • You may need to invest in netting to protect your crop; figs are a favorite of birds and squirrels.
  • When picking figs, wear gloves or long sleeves because the sap from the fig tree can irritate your skin.
  • Figs are very perishable. Store figs in the refrigerator; they will keep for 2 to 3 days.
  • For long-term storage, you can freeze figs whole for later use. Another storage method is to dry the figs. You can also can your own figs.
how to harvest figs

Pests and Problems

  • Root-knot nematodes
  • Leaf spots
  • Rust
  • Thrips
  • Twig dieback

Types

  • ‘Brown Turkey’ produces abundant medium to large figs. This type works best in warm climates but is fairly tolerant of cooler temperatures, too.
  • ‘Celeste’ produces small, sweet, purplish figs. It is one of the more winter-hardy varieties.
  • ‘Hardy Chicago’ is a winter-hardy variety that produces purple, medium-size figs.
  • ‘King’ is well adapted for the cooler conditions found in the Northwest. It produces medium figs that are sweet and rich in flavor.
  • ‘Kadota’ vigorously produces small to medium fruit. Its figs are rich and sweet, and it is the most commonly canned fig.

Wit and Wisdom

  • A fig can be eaten fresh from the tree, dried, or used in cooking. A single fig is only 50 calories and provides higher mineral and fiber content than most fruits, nuts, or vegetables. 
  • Figs soak up cholesterol, promote healthy bowel movements, reduce heart disease, regulate kidney and liver functions, lower blood pressure, and even inhibit some cancers. Plus, figs are packed with calcium, which reduces the risk of developing osteoporosis. They also contain phosphorus, which helps bones regrow.
  • “You can’t grow figs from thistles.”

Fruit

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Jessica Martin</span> Tue, 03/24/2015 - 14:27
What do fig trees eat and what eat them? What are their adaptions?
<span>Msoto</span> Sat, 03/21/2015 - 12:58
Hi, I live in southern California, have plenty of sunshine, and have a Fig tree in a small container that I would like to plant in my lawn on the west side of my house. I have 30 feet of lawn between my house and the street is that enough room for the roots to grow without it being destructive to my house or the curb? Thanks for your help!!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 03/23/2015 - 11:57

Yes, that is enough room. However, you should not plant the tree within 25ft of a septic tank or its drainage field.

 <span>Tsj</span> Fri, 03/13/2015 - 10:09
Hi, i was given a fig tree/bark. well it look like a stick, no roots, just a few plant leaves on it, so i know it still living, my question do i leave it in water so it coulds root, then plant in soil, or do i plant in soil right now so the stick/bark could start rooting. thanks Tricia
<span>Kellie Brown</span> Sun, 03/08/2015 - 13:07
hello, I brought my dwarf fig indoors (garage/basement)this winter. This year Connecticut had the coldest winter in recorded history! when do I start placing it outside? there are already new leaf buds on the branches. until last frost i assume I am bringing it indoors overnight.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 03/09/2015 - 15:04

Hi, Kellie: It sounds like it's so far, so good with your fig -- congratulations! One thing about figs is that in finicky ways they can be just as fragile as they are hardy, so it's always best to take things slowly in springtime when hardening them off. Use the Frost Dates calculator under Gardening above to find the likely date of your last frost. Start putting it outside on mild days, out of the wind, for 1 hour a day during the fourth week before frost. Two hours during the third week before. Three hours during the second week before. Four hours during the last week. You don't have to do it every day -- just when it's nice out. If you just sense that it's too cold, keep it inside -- don't "go by the book." Thanks for asking!

 <span>Clemis Jamison</span> Wed, 12/31/2014 - 03:55
How long does it take for a fig tree to die if you destroy the roots?
<span>Gail Vance</span> Wed, 06/21/2017 - 17:53
Not wanting to destroy a fig tree, I love figs. It was discussed in Bible class when Jesus cursed the fig tree.
<span>Georgewilson</span> Wed, 12/31/2014 - 10:55

Hard to say. A fig tree will keep sending out new roots and suckers. They root easily. Too bad you can't give the tree to someone. I hate seeing good trees killed. If you need to get rid of a fig tree, cut it down. You'll need to cut it down to a stump about three feet tall and rock the stump loose. Or, you can drill holes in the stump, fill them up with the stump killer and then the tree will stop trying to grow back. But if you want to avoid chemicals, cut the tree to ground level and cover the stump with leaves and water and plastic and the stump will crumble within the year.

 <span>Sr-L</span> Wed, 11/05/2014 - 11:25
I have a 4-5 yr old,in the ground 2-3 years Fig tree which was an air-root tree off the Mother tree in same community garden in SF, CA. It was in a bucket about 1 1/2 yrs before being given to me. The community garden wants me to remove the tree, as it shades the neighbor garden in morning. It is a spectacular Brown Fig/maybe Mission Fig producer which I started Espellier training 1 yr ago but it just wanted to grow up toward sun, no matter how I had pruned it, in years past. HOW CAN I PRUNE IT AND EVENTUALLY TRANSPLANT IT WITHIN NEXT 4 MONTHS? Especially how to prepare roots for the inevitable transplant? The garden is about 200' elevation on Potrero Hill in SF.