Plant garlic in fall, after the weather has cooled but before the ground freezes. In colder climates, a useful rule of thumb is to plant about 1 to 2 weeks after the first killing frost, giving the cloves time to develop roots before winter.

Garlic needs a period of cold temperatures for good bulb development. Fall-planted garlic receives this chilling naturally over winter. If you plant garlic in spring, chill the cloves in the refrigerator for about 8 weeks beforehand, then plant as soon as the soil can be worked.

In many areas, garlic goes into the ground around the same time as spring-flowering bulbs, generally from September through November. Gardeners in mild-winter climates may plant later, but spring-planted garlic often produces smaller bulbs.

Where to Plant Garlic

Plant garlic in full sun, with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day, and in fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting, work compost or other well-rotted organic matter into the soil to improve its structure and fertility.

Good drainage is especially important. Garlic can rot in soil that stays wet, so if you have heavy clay or poorly drained soil, consider planting in a raised bed.

How to Plant Garlic

Plant garlic as individual cloves, 2 to 3 inches deep and about 4 to 6 inches apart, with the pointed end facing up. Separate the cloves from the bulb just before planting, and leave the papery skins intact.

Start with healthy seed garlic. Choose large, firm, disease-free bulbs from a reputable nursery, garden center, or seed supplier.
Separate the bulb into cloves just before planting. Use the largest healthy cloves and keep their papery skins on. Larger cloves generally produce larger bulbs.
Plant each clove 2 to 3 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.
Space cloves about 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, leave enough room between rows for weeding and tending the plants.
Water after planting to settle the soil around the cloves.

Planting garlic cloves in the soil — Credit: YuriyS/Getty Images

Growing

Watering

Keep garlic evenly moist during active spring growth, especially as the bulbs begin to form. Garlic generally needs about 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation during dry weather, but avoid keeping the soil soggy.

As the lower leaves begin to yellow and harvest approaches, reduce and then stop watering. Too much moisture late in the season can delay curing and increase the risk of bulb problems.

Fertilizing

Garlic benefits from nitrogen while it is producing vigorous leafy growth in spring. Side-dress plants with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer when active growth resumes. In lower-fertility soils, a second light feeding may be helpful before the bulbs begin to enlarge.

Avoid heavy fertilizing once bulb formation is underway. A soil test is the best guide to whether your soil needs additional nutrients.

Pruning or Maintenance

Keep garlic beds weeded throughout the growing season. Garlic has shallow roots and does not compete well with weeds for water and nutrients.

If you are growing hardneck garlic, cut off the flower stalks, called scapes, after they emerge and begin to curl. Removing scapes helps the plant direct more energy into producing larger bulbs. The tender scapes are edible, too.

Seasonal Care

In cold-winter areas, a layer of straw or chopped leaves helps protect fall-planted garlic from repeated freezing and thawing. As growth resumes in spring, loosen or pull back heavy, matted mulch so the shoots can emerge easily.

A lighter layer of mulch can remain through the growing season to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Types

Garlic comes in two main types: hardneck and softneck. The best choice depends largely on your climate and whether you value scapes, large cloves, or longer storage.

Hardneck garlic is generally more winter-hardy and is a good choice for colder climates. It produces a stiff central stalk and edible scapes, with fewer but typically larger cloves. Hardneck garlic does not store as long as softneck types. Popular varieties include ‘Chesnok Red’ and ‘German Red’.
Softneck garlic is well suited to many milder climates and generally stores longer than hardneck garlic. It usually produces more, smaller cloves and has flexible stems that can be braided after curing. Popular varieties include ‘California Early’ and ‘Inchelium Red’.

Harvesting

When to Harvest Garlic

Harvest garlic when about one-third to one-half of the leaves have turned yellow or brown, while several upper leaves are still green. Don’t wait until all the foliage has dried, or the bulbs may begin to split apart and won’t store as well.

Garlic planted in fall is typically ready to harvest the following summer, usually from June through August depending on your climate and the variety. If you’re unsure, carefully dig up one bulb to check it. Mature bulbs should have plump, well-defined cloves covered by several layers of papery skin.

If you’re growing hardneck garlic for scapes, harvest the scapes earlier in the season when they begin to curl.

How to Harvest Garlic

Loosen the soil around each bulb with a garden fork or shovel, taking care not to pierce or bruise it. Lift the whole plant from the soil rather than pulling hard on the stem.

Gently brush away large clumps of soil, but leave the leaves and roots attached while the garlic cures.

Storage

Garlic can be used fresh from the garden, but bulbs intended for storage should be cured first.

Place freshly harvested garlic in a warm, dry, shady location with good air circulation for about 2 to 4 weeks. Garlic is fully cured when the outer skins are papery, the neck and roots are dry, and the cloves feel firm.

After curing, gently brush away loose soil. Trim the roots and cut the stems to about 1 to 2 inches above the bulb, unless you’re growing softneck garlic and want to braid the tops.

Store cured garlic in a cool, dry, dark place with good air circulation. Softneck garlic generally stores longer than hardneck garlic.

Save a few of your largest, healthiest bulbs if you’d like to plant your own garlic again in fall.

Harvested garlic bulbs laying on a table in the sun — Photo by Nikolaeva Elena/Getty Images

Gardening Products

Pests and Problems

Common Problems

Bulbs are small or undersized: Crowding, low fertility, dry soil during active growth, planting too late, or leaving scapes on hardneck garlic can all limit bulb size. Give plants adequate space, steady moisture, and nutrients while they are actively growing.
Bulbs are splitting apart: Garlic may begin to separate into individual cloves when it is left in the ground too long. Harvest when the lower leaves have browned but several upper leaves are still green.
Leaves are turning yellow: Some yellowing is normal as garlic approaches harvest. If leaves yellow or wilt earlier in the season, check soil moisture and look closely for pest or disease symptoms before adding fertilizer.

Common Pests

Plants suddenly yellow or wilt, and bulbs have holes: Onion maggots may be feeding on the roots and bulbs. You may find small, cream-colored, legless maggots inside damaged bulbs. Remove badly affected plants, rotate garlic and other alliums to a different part of the garden, and use floating row covers where onion maggots have been a recurring problem.
Leaves develop whitish or silvery streaks and may become distorted: Check between the leaves for tiny onion thrips. Small infestations usually cause little damage in home gardens. Keep weeds under control, use mulch, and knock thrips from the foliage with a strong spray of water if needed.

Plant Diseases

Leaves yellow and wilt, and the base of the bulb develops fluffy white growth: These are signs of white rot. Small black, poppy-seed-like structures may also appear around the bulb. Remove infected plants and avoid moving contaminated soil or bulbs to other parts of the garden. Plant only clean, disease-free garlic in unaffected soil. White rot can survive in soil for more than 20 years, so crop rotation alone will not eliminate it.

Recipes

Sauteed Spinach with Shallots and Garlic

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Garden Patch Potato Salad

Creamy Garlic Dressing

Basil & Garlic Stuffed Quail

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

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Comments

Add a Comment

Howard Mon, 10/09/2017 - 19:28

I have a number of garlic cloves which I took the hard skins off.... can I still plant them? I'm going to plant deep and leaf mulch Oct. 14th near Seattle.

Bakht Zeb Sat, 03/10/2018 - 08:46

I have planted garlic about two acres.now i want spry on garlic leaves to grow it better my garlic is less weak. Now if i gave it some pertalizer it swell up and will be going wrong . So please give information about to spry on garlic. And what type of spry can i prepar in home for garlic growing well

Laura Sat, 10/07/2017 - 09:58

I planted the cloves last weekend, 10/1/17 which should be about the right time before the first killing frost. The unusually warm fall has boosted my garlic to sprout inches through the mulch. I don't see in the forecast that it will get cold soon. I am worried that the crop will be lost once it does finally get cold. Are they doomed?

Petula Mon, 10/09/2017 - 15:54

I think you Garlic should be just fine. The frost will likely kill the leaves and then your garlic will be forced to wait till spring. I had some of my garlic lose all the leaves in summer and in fall but I harvested it just fine. This weather is really crazy around Canada too, but the cold season is a week away.

Nguyen Vo Hoang Tue, 10/10/2017 - 03:51

You can cut leaf of fern tree and covering in bag, and then when its grow about 20-30cm you can cover between 2 rows in order to keep leafs don't fall , because if leafs ò garlic is falling then garlic can't have bulb. good look your plant.

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 10/09/2017 - 15:25

If you keep the garlic sprouts mulched (add more if the sprouts pop through it) they should be ok. You do not say where you are, so we can not comment on the weather, but you can get a 7-day forecast here by plugging in your zip code: https://www.almanac.com/weather/forecast

Laura Mon, 10/09/2017 - 19:11

Thank you. I am in northern Indiana. I will add more mulch. What is the preferred mulch for garlic? I've actually used the daylily spent browned leaves from my other gardens. No seeds and similar texture to straw. Good instinct or bad choice. Will need to add a different mulch on top. Open to suggestions. Really didn't think the little buggers would jump out of the ground like that in a week. :). Again, thank you.

Kristen Thu, 11/02/2017 - 15:42

Last fall/ early winter, my garlic also sprouted around November due to the warm weather. I was very concerned that I would lose my entire crop. I put down about an inch of mulch, as recommended. All of my garlic sprouts came up strong in the spring, and we successfully harvested our crop in July/ August. Hopefully, your crop will survive without a problem as well. This year, I waited a little longer to plant (I still haven't done it), now I'm worried that I've waited too long! But, it will probably come out just fine.

Lisa Fri, 09/29/2017 - 10:32

I have a raised garden ( old feed bunker approximately 10-11 inches deep, with good soil n compost mixed in) can I plant garlic in this?

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 09/29/2017 - 15:28

It sounds fine to us, assuming it's loose, good-draining soil. Garlic likes compost (which you have mixed in) and especially likes raised gardens to avoid wet feet.

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Planting and Growing Garlic: From Cloves to Harvest

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