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Planting
When to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic in fall, after the weather has cooled but before the ground freezes. In colder climates, a useful rule of thumb is to plant about 1 to 2 weeks after the first killing frost, giving the cloves time to develop roots before winter.
Garlic needs a period of cold temperatures for good bulb development. Fall-planted garlic receives this chilling naturally over winter. If you plant garlic in spring, chill the cloves in the refrigerator for about 8 weeks beforehand, then plant as soon as the soil can be worked.
In many areas, garlic goes into the ground around the same time as spring-flowering bulbs, generally from September through November. Gardeners in mild-winter climates may plant later, but spring-planted garlic often produces smaller bulbs.
Where to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic in full sun, with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day, and in fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting, work compost or other well-rotted organic matter into the soil to improve its structure and fertility.
Good drainage is especially important. Garlic can rot in soil that stays wet, so if you have heavy clay or poorly drained soil, consider planting in a raised bed.
How to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic as individual cloves, 2 to 3 inches deep and about 4 to 6 inches apart, with the pointed end facing up. Separate the cloves from the bulb just before planting, and leave the papery skins intact.
- Start with healthy seed garlic. Choose large, firm, disease-free bulbs from a reputable nursery, garden center, or seed supplier.
- Separate the bulb into cloves just before planting. Use the largest healthy cloves and keep their papery skins on. Larger cloves generally produce larger bulbs.
- Plant each clove 2 to 3 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.
- Space cloves about 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, leave enough room between rows for weeding and tending the plants.
- Water after planting to settle the soil around the cloves.
Types
Garlic comes in two main types: hardneck and softneck. The best choice depends largely on your climate and whether you value scapes, large cloves, or longer storage.
- Hardneck garlic is generally more winter-hardy and is a good choice for colder climates. It produces a stiff central stalk and edible scapes, with fewer but typically larger cloves. Hardneck garlic does not store as long as softneck types. Popular varieties include ‘Chesnok Red’ and ‘German Red’.
- Softneck garlic is well suited to many milder climates and generally stores longer than hardneck garlic. It usually produces more, smaller cloves and has flexible stems that can be braided after curing. Popular varieties include ‘California Early’ and ‘Inchelium Red’.
Harvesting
When to Harvest Garlic
Harvest garlic when about one-third to one-half of the leaves have turned yellow or brown, while several upper leaves are still green. Don’t wait until all the foliage has dried, or the bulbs may begin to split apart and won’t store as well.
Garlic planted in fall is typically ready to harvest the following summer, usually from June through August depending on your climate and the variety. If you’re unsure, carefully dig up one bulb to check it. Mature bulbs should have plump, well-defined cloves covered by several layers of papery skin.
If you’re growing hardneck garlic for scapes, harvest the scapes earlier in the season when they begin to curl.
How to Harvest Garlic
Loosen the soil around each bulb with a garden fork or shovel, taking care not to pierce or bruise it. Lift the whole plant from the soil rather than pulling hard on the stem.
Gently brush away large clumps of soil, but leave the leaves and roots attached while the garlic cures.
Storage
Garlic can be used fresh from the garden, but bulbs intended for storage should be cured first.
Place freshly harvested garlic in a warm, dry, shady location with good air circulation for about 2 to 4 weeks. Garlic is fully cured when the outer skins are papery, the neck and roots are dry, and the cloves feel firm.
After curing, gently brush away loose soil. Trim the roots and cut the stems to about 1 to 2 inches above the bulb, unless you’re growing softneck garlic and want to braid the tops.
Store cured garlic in a cool, dry, dark place with good air circulation. Softneck garlic generally stores longer than hardneck garlic.
Save a few of your largest, healthiest bulbs if you’d like to plant your own garlic again in fall.
Gardening Products
Your first instinct is probably the wisest: You aren't supposed to plant store bought—better to say, actually, that it often has been treated so as not to grow. You know how sometimes an onion, if left sitting around will send up greens? These are edible. Well, even store-bought garlic does the same thing if you wait long enough, and this is what it sounds like yours did. Transplanting will do nothing but weaken it; it would have to start (whatever it's doing) all over again. Put it outdoors, if you like. But consider it purely as an experiment. In the fall, get a locally grown fresh garlic head at a farmer's market and plant its cloves in a pot or in the soil. Just give it some winter and it should be ready to harvest in summer. For details, see above.
Scapes are a good sign. Cut them off to use in cooking (or just discard; the point is, if you leave the scape on, it will use the energy that would have gone into the head). Wait until the greens/foliage dies back then uproot it to see if the clove you planted produced a head.
For edible garlic (not the ornamental type), some gardeners like to trim off the scapes for eating just as they finish curling in their first loop, before the flower bud develops and opens. This way, the plant focuses on bulb growth rather than using that energy for producing flowers and seeds. But other gardeners prefer to let their garlic flower. Since yours are blooming, the scapes are likely too tough now for eating; you can remove the flower scape (not leaves) now, or just leave them be. As to harvesting the bulbs, you can dig them up when the lower 3 to 5 leaves are turning brown--the upper ones will still be green. Don't wait until all leaves are brown. If you aren't sure about timing, gently dig up a bulb to check on its size. Hope this helps!
Although it's best to plant in fall, sometimes the bulbs do sprout in storage over winter. Plant these in spring as soon as the ground can be worked. The bulbs may not be as large, and they may not develop cloves, but they can still be tasty.
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