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Planting
When to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic in fall, after the weather has cooled but before the ground freezes. In colder climates, a useful rule of thumb is to plant about 1 to 2 weeks after the first killing frost, giving the cloves time to develop roots before winter.
Garlic needs a period of cold temperatures for good bulb development. Fall-planted garlic receives this chilling naturally over winter. If you plant garlic in spring, chill the cloves in the refrigerator for about 8 weeks beforehand, then plant as soon as the soil can be worked.
In many areas, garlic goes into the ground around the same time as spring-flowering bulbs, generally from September through November. Gardeners in mild-winter climates may plant later, but spring-planted garlic often produces smaller bulbs.
Where to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic in full sun, with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day, and in fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting, work compost or other well-rotted organic matter into the soil to improve its structure and fertility.
Good drainage is especially important. Garlic can rot in soil that stays wet, so if you have heavy clay or poorly drained soil, consider planting in a raised bed.
How to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic as individual cloves, 2 to 3 inches deep and about 4 to 6 inches apart, with the pointed end facing up. Separate the cloves from the bulb just before planting, and leave the papery skins intact.
- Start with healthy seed garlic. Choose large, firm, disease-free bulbs from a reputable nursery, garden center, or seed supplier.
- Separate the bulb into cloves just before planting. Use the largest healthy cloves and keep their papery skins on. Larger cloves generally produce larger bulbs.
- Plant each clove 2 to 3 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.
- Space cloves about 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, leave enough room between rows for weeding and tending the plants.
- Water after planting to settle the soil around the cloves.
Types
Garlic comes in two main types: hardneck and softneck. The best choice depends largely on your climate and whether you value scapes, large cloves, or longer storage.
- Hardneck garlic is generally more winter-hardy and is a good choice for colder climates. It produces a stiff central stalk and edible scapes, with fewer but typically larger cloves. Hardneck garlic does not store as long as softneck types. Popular varieties include ‘Chesnok Red’ and ‘German Red’.
- Softneck garlic is well suited to many milder climates and generally stores longer than hardneck garlic. It usually produces more, smaller cloves and has flexible stems that can be braided after curing. Popular varieties include ‘California Early’ and ‘Inchelium Red’.
Harvesting
When to Harvest Garlic
Harvest garlic when about one-third to one-half of the leaves have turned yellow or brown, while several upper leaves are still green. Don’t wait until all the foliage has dried, or the bulbs may begin to split apart and won’t store as well.
Garlic planted in fall is typically ready to harvest the following summer, usually from June through August depending on your climate and the variety. If you’re unsure, carefully dig up one bulb to check it. Mature bulbs should have plump, well-defined cloves covered by several layers of papery skin.
If you’re growing hardneck garlic for scapes, harvest the scapes earlier in the season when they begin to curl.
How to Harvest Garlic
Loosen the soil around each bulb with a garden fork or shovel, taking care not to pierce or bruise it. Lift the whole plant from the soil rather than pulling hard on the stem.
Gently brush away large clumps of soil, but leave the leaves and roots attached while the garlic cures.
Storage
Garlic can be used fresh from the garden, but bulbs intended for storage should be cured first.
Place freshly harvested garlic in a warm, dry, shady location with good air circulation for about 2 to 4 weeks. Garlic is fully cured when the outer skins are papery, the neck and roots are dry, and the cloves feel firm.
After curing, gently brush away loose soil. Trim the roots and cut the stems to about 1 to 2 inches above the bulb, unless you’re growing softneck garlic and want to braid the tops.
Store cured garlic in a cool, dry, dark place with good air circulation. Softneck garlic generally stores longer than hardneck garlic.
Save a few of your largest, healthiest bulbs if you’d like to plant your own garlic again in fall.
Gardening Products
Do not cover the garlic with plastic, Tony. Give is a blanket of mulch several inches deep (fallen leaves are great!). If you plant in well composted, well draining soil (see also above re pH and other requirements), you should not have to fertilize. Water occasionally; more if local conditions—drought to any degree—indicate. Garlic really does not ask for much, if you give it good soil.
Hi, Claudia, It would be fine to water the garlic. Certainly if it were to rain it would get wet. So that should be no problem. Good luck with it! Garlic is one of the easiest crops!
Clay is not your friend, in this case (in most cases). You could dig a hole, maybe about a foot deep and, depending on how many garlic you're going to plant, a few feet by a few feet and replace the clay with good composted material, and then plant the garlic. They need to be a couple inches deep and apart (see above). They do not set deep roots, so that would be a suitable bed. Alternately you could put the good composted material into pots and plant the garlic in there (with/at the suggested depth) and then put the pots into holes in the ground. That way, they are more protected from the elements than if in the pots above ground, where freeze/thaw/refreeze conditions could hurt the bulbs. We hope this helps!
You can still plant the garlic cloves, but without their individual protective layer (sometimes called a "tunic"), they might be more susceptible to diseases. Before planting, some gardeners soak their cloves (usually unpeeled, but sometimes peeled) in a solution of 1 gallon water to 1 tablespoon baking soda overnight (some add a little liquid seaweed to the solution). Then just before planting, soak them in rubbing alcohol for about 4 minutes. This helps to prevent disease. You might try that with some of your cloves to see if it might help. Good luck!
Hi, Jill: Often this is caused by the garlic not having been planted deep enough. Sounds like you're a veteran and know what you're doing, but do be sure that they are down about 3 inches or so, depending on variety. Thanks for asking!
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