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Planting
When to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic in fall, after the weather has cooled but before the ground freezes. In colder climates, a useful rule of thumb is to plant about 1 to 2 weeks after the first killing frost, giving the cloves time to develop roots before winter.
Garlic needs a period of cold temperatures for good bulb development. Fall-planted garlic receives this chilling naturally over winter. If you plant garlic in spring, chill the cloves in the refrigerator for about 8 weeks beforehand, then plant as soon as the soil can be worked.
In many areas, garlic goes into the ground around the same time as spring-flowering bulbs, generally from September through November. Gardeners in mild-winter climates may plant later, but spring-planted garlic often produces smaller bulbs.
Where to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic in full sun, with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day, and in fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting, work compost or other well-rotted organic matter into the soil to improve its structure and fertility.
Good drainage is especially important. Garlic can rot in soil that stays wet, so if you have heavy clay or poorly drained soil, consider planting in a raised bed.
How to Plant Garlic
Plant garlic as individual cloves, 2 to 3 inches deep and about 4 to 6 inches apart, with the pointed end facing up. Separate the cloves from the bulb just before planting, and leave the papery skins intact.
- Start with healthy seed garlic. Choose large, firm, disease-free bulbs from a reputable nursery, garden center, or seed supplier.
- Separate the bulb into cloves just before planting. Use the largest healthy cloves and keep their papery skins on. Larger cloves generally produce larger bulbs.
- Plant each clove 2 to 3 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.
- Space cloves about 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, leave enough room between rows for weeding and tending the plants.
- Water after planting to settle the soil around the cloves.
Types
Garlic comes in two main types: hardneck and softneck. The best choice depends largely on your climate and whether you value scapes, large cloves, or longer storage.
- Hardneck garlic is generally more winter-hardy and is a good choice for colder climates. It produces a stiff central stalk and edible scapes, with fewer but typically larger cloves. Hardneck garlic does not store as long as softneck types. Popular varieties include ‘Chesnok Red’ and ‘German Red’.
- Softneck garlic is well suited to many milder climates and generally stores longer than hardneck garlic. It usually produces more, smaller cloves and has flexible stems that can be braided after curing. Popular varieties include ‘California Early’ and ‘Inchelium Red’.
Harvesting
When to Harvest Garlic
Harvest garlic when about one-third to one-half of the leaves have turned yellow or brown, while several upper leaves are still green. Don’t wait until all the foliage has dried, or the bulbs may begin to split apart and won’t store as well.
Garlic planted in fall is typically ready to harvest the following summer, usually from June through August depending on your climate and the variety. If you’re unsure, carefully dig up one bulb to check it. Mature bulbs should have plump, well-defined cloves covered by several layers of papery skin.
If you’re growing hardneck garlic for scapes, harvest the scapes earlier in the season when they begin to curl.
How to Harvest Garlic
Loosen the soil around each bulb with a garden fork or shovel, taking care not to pierce or bruise it. Lift the whole plant from the soil rather than pulling hard on the stem.
Gently brush away large clumps of soil, but leave the leaves and roots attached while the garlic cures.
Storage
Garlic can be used fresh from the garden, but bulbs intended for storage should be cured first.
Place freshly harvested garlic in a warm, dry, shady location with good air circulation for about 2 to 4 weeks. Garlic is fully cured when the outer skins are papery, the neck and roots are dry, and the cloves feel firm.
After curing, gently brush away loose soil. Trim the roots and cut the stems to about 1 to 2 inches above the bulb, unless you’re growing softneck garlic and want to braid the tops.
Store cured garlic in a cool, dry, dark place with good air circulation. Softneck garlic generally stores longer than hardneck garlic.
Save a few of your largest, healthiest bulbs if you’d like to plant your own garlic again in fall.
Gardening Products
Spring garlic usually comes up around March or April. If you can not find any bulbs, perhaps a squirrel or other animal has gotten to them?
Yes, Dave, what were you thinking? Hang on, it may not be so bad.
As we're sure you know: "To everything there is a season," and garlic, too, must have its own. We can find no substantiation for garlic growing/maturing faster in a greenhouse; most growers indicate that they remove it from the greenhouse to the outdoors in warm weather. If your "greenhouse setup" is a temporary cover, that would mean lifting if off the garlic.
It seems that you have a few options: Leave the garlic, harvest it, and sell, trade, or give away heads as starter cloves for next season. Trades might get you the fresh produce you seek, in this case from neighbors' beds. Sales of garlic heads for growing, especially unusual varieties, seems to be a booming business. It's easy to grow and (almost) everyone uses it. You could, depending on space and what else you want to grow, plant around the garlic. Shallow-root plants, like lettuce greens, might do. Possibly peas. You could enlarge your bed. Start a new one. Or plant in containers. Finally, we regret to suggest that you could pull some garlic up early to make space.
Just trying to help, Dave. Best wishes—
Check the soil moisture: too much or too little water may turn leaf tips yellow. Also, too little nitrogen (garlic likes soil rich in nitrogen when it starts to grow; less so as it matures). Temperature fluctuations can also cause yellowing tips. There are also a few pests and diseases that may cause yellowing leaves, such as onion maggots, nematodes, and various fungal rots. If there are just a few leaves that have yellow tips, then most likely you don't need to worry. If the situation progresses, however, probably something more serious is going on. For more information, see:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/vegetable/garlic/leaveswilt.html
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/fruit-vegetable/growing-garlic-in-minnesota/#soils
http://www.southernexposure.com/growing-guides/allium-guide-web.pdf
In terms of planting, it really depends on where you live in Kentucky. The state is mostly in plant hardiness zone 6a. If you're looking for planting dates for your zip code, see our Best Planting Date chart by crop here:
http://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates
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