Growing Hydrangea

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Hydrangea Shrubs

Deep Blue Hydrangea Bloom

With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Colors also beguile with clear blues, vibrant pinks, frosty whites, lavender, and rose—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!

The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.

Unrivaled in the shrub world, these elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce flowers in mid-summer through fall (when little else may be in bloom). Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers.


  • Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
  • They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas (see Recommended Varieties below).
  • Plant in spring or fall.
  • Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
  • Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
  • Water thoroughly.
  • Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.


  • For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
  • If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
  • In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder it’s confusing! It depends on the variety of hydrangea. 

Common Hydrangea Shrubs

  • The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, H. macrophylla). One type of Bigleaf is the “Mophead” with the big snowball-size blooms. The other type of Bigleaf is the “Lacecap” with the pretty flowers almost hanging down from a flat center of tiny blooms. 
  • The Bigleaf variety, or H. macrophylla, as well as H. paniculata and H. quercifolia, are pruned AFTER the flowers fade. 
  • Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1. 
  • Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
  • To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness. 
  • If the plant is old or neglected or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also renovate the plant for future years.
  • It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.

Other Hydrangeas

  • Oakleaf, panicle, and smooth hydrangeas are treated differently. They blossom on the current season’s wood. They should be pruned in the later winter when the plant is dormant BEFORE bloom. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, they will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms. 
  • In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush. 

Read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties.


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Try drying hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:

  • Harvest the heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
  • Remove leaves from stems, and hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
  • When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
  • To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted Rit dye.

Recommended Varieties

Wit & Wisdom

Changing the Color of a Hydrangea

It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. It is easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting.

  • Start with the Hydrangea macrophylla variety. Have your soil pH tested.
  • To get blue flowers, you need to lower the pH, which you can do by adding sulfur or peat moss to the soil. To get pink to light red flowers, add ground limestone only around the plant; a pH above 7.5 will result in poor growth.
  • Note that hard water can affect the flower color, turning blue flowers more pinkish, so use rainwater to water your hydrangeas.
  • In the fall, hydrangea flowers will naturally fade, often to a combination of pink and green. This is simply the aging process which cannot be reversed. Next year, the flowers will return to their original color.

Planting Times

Growing Hydrangea

Botanical Name


Plant Type Shrub
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Part Sun
Soil Type Any
Soil pH Acidic, Neutral, Neutral to Slightly Alkaline, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer, Fall
Flower Color Blue, Pink, Purple, White
Hardiness Zones 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
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