Hydrangea Care
Watering
- For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water.
- Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. It’s better to deeply water 3 times a week than sprinkle water in a shallow manner. This encourages root growth.
- Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture.
- Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry, and flowering will be hampered by a lack of water.
- Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves.
- It’s best to water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
- Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.
Fertilizing
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.
Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May and June.
- Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
- Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.
Winter protection
- In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)
How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers
It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.
It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.
Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.
Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.
| Hydrangea Type |
When to Prune |
Where Flowers Appear |
|---|
| Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Panicle (H. paniculata) |
Late winter, before spring growth |
On new growth |
| Smooth (H. arborescens) |
Late winter, before spring growth |
On new growth |
| Mountain (H. serrata) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).
- Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
- Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
- To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
- If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
- It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
- When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.
Other Hydrangeas
Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).
- Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
- In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.
Reader Comments
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hydrageans that do not bloom
I also have four hydrageans plants next to one another. I've had them for four years. We live in the Phila. area. Only one of them blooms, but only two flowers. I've heard that this plant blooms better when plant by itself. Any truth on this and what am I doing wrong? All were bought at garden centers.
Hydrangea Macrophylla Paris Rapa - Please Help
We have two of these in the front of our house next to one another. Both are two tears old. One blooms with quite a few flowers and the other is taller ( leafier) with healthy looking leaves and had one weak bloom which died off quickly, and nothing else. Same soil. Thanks
PLEASE HELP...??
My hydrangea (oak leaf, just planted this spring) accidentally got run over by the lawn mower, sliced it right to the ground. I'm sick about it. If I were to leave it (the roots) in the ground, is there any chance it will live to be a viable shrub? Should I dig it up a start over with a new plant?
Hydrangea
Hi Nick,
Hydrangea are hearty plants that will grow back when cut (even to the ground) during dormancy. However, a young, recently planted hydrangea like yours will not have as strong of a root system developed yet as a several year old plant would. Try waiting a while to see what happens during this summer: The plant might bounce back and start growing new shoots! If by next spring it’s still not doing well, plant another in its place. Good luck!
Hydrangea growth
I planted 5 hydrangea (mophead) last summer and they have not gotten any bigger than they were when I planted them. They died back over the winter and then came back, but have not continued to grow (they did bloom). They are in a shady spot of the yard and they have bloomed. Too much shade? Can they be transplanted?
Hydrangea Growth
Hi Karen,
Hydrangeas like some, but not full shade; it sounds like they could not be getting enough sun. You can transplant them, but wait until the fall to do it. Once all of the blooms have died and almost all of the leaves have dropped, transplant the hydrangeas into a slightly sunnier location with well-draining soil. Layer some compost around the base to give them an extra boost in the spring.
White blooms
I have a Harlequin macrophylla hydrangea that last year and this year had a few solid white blooms on one branch instead of the bicolor bloom that is normally seen. Is this a frequent occurrence? If the branch is rooted is it likely to continue to produce white blooms?
white hydrangea
When hydrangea flowers begin with a color and fade to white, it’s usually an older bloom and past its prime for pollination. However, you’re saying the flower was white from the very beginning? Our guess is that your plant was hybridized using a white blooming hydrangea with a pink/blue blooming hydrangea, and some of the plant is showing its original white. In this case, yes, it will stay white. White flowers can not be changed.
No blooms
My hydrangea never seem to bloom. We have healthy green leaves, but no flowers. We have one plant in the front of the house and one in the back. One gets full sun in the morning, one in the afternoon. Same problem with both plants :-(
hydrangeas have healthy foliage but no blooms
Do you know if you have lace cap or mophead hydrageas? The lace cap produce “flowers” that consist of teeny, tiny flowers surrounded (more or less) by substantially larger, usually four-petal flowers. Mopheads have the large balls of same-size flowers. If that’s not what you’re dealing with, we can only suggest this: It could be as simple as too much shade or too much sun. It could be too much fertilizer, esp high nitrogen fertilizer, which will result in beautiful foliage but few if any flowers. It could be too much moisture—or too little moisture. And, how is the pH of the soil?? Have they got enough compost? Also, the blooming of hydrangeas is affected by how they have been pruned, which depends on the type of hydrangea. Some bloom on second-year wood, others on the current year’s growth.
hydrangea
Lots of blooms, But they are all Bright Green. Is that the nature of the beast? I have never seen one like this I live in British Columbia. It is planted with a group of Hostas.Any suggestions to turn this to Blue?
Hydrangea
Sounds like you have the variety called "Limelight". That bright lime green is their color. Doesn't change.
new white-flowered blossoms are turning brown
Plants have been well-watered and get morning only direct sunlight. New buds bloomed, but plants now appear to be dying. Blossoms are turning brown, but leaves still look fine. Do Hydrangea bloom more than once a season?
failing to thrive
There are so very many brands of hydrangea available today, it is hard to keep up. Do they bloom more than once…? Well, they bloom and hold the flowers, typically. But there may be “new” plants that do more. You say it get only morning sun. Is that enough? Do you have a care tag? Some need more sun. Is the water standing under the plant or is it draining off? It is best to water deeply every 5 to 7 days. Mulch will help the soil to retain moisture during that period. Bud failure can also be caused by frost or the soil may lack basic trace elements. Do a soil test and amend accordingly. Finally, the problem could also be insects or disease.
hydrangea bush.
The leaves on some of my hydrangea bush are drying & curling. What would cause this to happen?
Hydranges 2 bushes, on the south side of the ouse new this yr, a
They look bad, leaves curling, brown parts on the leafs, and little br spots on the outside of the leaf, look like bugs I put some seven on them but don't look healthy at all, Please help with this problem.
Thank You
Carol K
Hydrangea
I bought 6 hydrangea s.have potted them in saner compost and fed them the same 5 are doing well and coming into bloom , but one has a lot of foliage but non flower buds , can you tell me why X for
Everblooming Hydrangea
We have everblooming hydrangeas. They had a lot of buds at the tips this year but we used moss out on our roof and the drippings from the roof fell on to the hydrangea. Buds are now brown and some of the leafs on the plants went limp do you think they will bounce back? Any suggestions what I can give them?
hydrangea blossom but never open up hardly at all to bloom.
hydrangeas blossom but never open up hardly at all to bloom....what am I doing wrong? Plants look healthy but blossoms don't open, the plants are probably 6 years old, moved them last spring to get more sun and still no blooms.
blooms do not open...
Do you know if you have lace cap or mophead hydrageas? The lace cap produce “flowers” that consist of teeny, tiny flowers surrounded (more or less) by substantially larger, usually four-petal flowers. Mopheads have the large balls of same-size flowers. If that’s not what you’re dealing with, we can only suggest this: It could be as simple as too much shade or too much sun. It could be too much fertilizer, esp high nitrogen fertilizer, which will result in beautiful foliage but few if any flowers. It could be too much moisture—or too little moisture. And, how is the pH of the soil?? Have they got enough compost? There may not be a good, solid explanation, but moving them to a different “environment” will at least give you a point of comparison. Also, the blooming of hydrangeas is affected by how they have been pruned, which depends on the type of hydrangea. Some bloom on second-year wood, others on the current year’s growth. Not knowing the type you have or how it has been pruned, I can’t say for sure why it isn’t blooming.
HYDRANGEA
WILL SPRAYING HYDRANGEAS WITH EPSON SALT & WATER MAKE THEM BLOOM MORE?
Plant disease
Just bought two plants on markdown. Both have tiny black spots on stems. I sprayed with dish soap and vinegar. What can I do to save them?
black spots
This has come up; here is our suggestion from below: There are a few different fungal diseases that can cause spotting on hydrangea leaves, including black spot, powdery mildew, and cercospora. They will not kill the shrub, but it is good to try to control spread. Treating any of them includes removing diseased leaves from the plant and the soil. Once the soil surface is clean, put down (and maintain) a very thick layer of compost mulch to suppress disease spores, which are airborne. Then, follow instructions on how and when to apply neem oil.
Hydrangea
My new leaves are browning on the ends. Some of the older leaves too. What am I doing wrong? Help?
brown spots on hydrangea leaves
Usually, this is a moisture issue. Sometimes, the plant can be root-bound, too. Gently dig the plants early in the morning to check for both conditions. If needed, lightly loosen the roots with your hand. You can also soak the root ball in water until it’s moistened through. Make sure you maintain uniform moisture for your hydrangeas.
Location can also be an issue. If they’re getting sun burnt, they’d do better with light shade.
Hydrangeas
A landscaper planted 12 Hydrangeas for me last June 2016.....beautiful most of last summer..... and now they are not showing much life {only few green leaves at base of plant}...just all bare sticks.....It looks as if they were not planted all the way into the ground... .could that be the problem? By now they should be full of green leaves and buds and getting ready to bloom.....Suggestions??
Stick-y hydrangeas
How unfortunate! One question is whether your hydrangea is alive. Do the “scratch test.” If you scratch a stick with your fingernail and it’s green underneath, it’s still alive; if it’s brown, it’s dead. We also suggestion that you direct your question to the landscaper. Ask him what variety these plants are and what you should expect. Did he make a one-year guarantee of the plants? Some nurseries have a replacement policy of one year, if the plant/s appear to have failed for some reason.
hydrangias that are too large for the space
I planted 4 hydrangia "bushes" about 7 years ago, not realizing that the size would grow to be 5-6 ft tall ( they are the large drooping white kind of flowers). I would like to move them as they are too large for the space. How deep are the roots usually and how difficult would that process be?
transplanting hydrangia
Yes you can move your hydrangea though it’s not easy. It’s best to transplant large specimens in the fall on a cool, cloudy day once the plant has dropped its leaves and has gone dormant. To reduce shock, root-prune the plant before transplanting. Using a spading shovel, dig a shovel-deep ring just outside of the leaf line of the plant at a 45-degree angle. Make only a single cut, disturbing the roots as little as possible. Keep the plant watered thoroughly the next few days so the roots have time to recover.
Before you transplant, prepare the new planting hole, mixing in a good planting soil mix. Ensure it’s big enough and deep enough so that the rootball is 1 inch higher than the depth of the hole. You’ll need to dig a very deep trench around the rootball, and cut deep enough under it that you only sever the small feeder roots, not the large old ones. This could require using a shovel and digging iron and a lot of hard work.
Never lift or move the plant by the branches; always touch and move the plant by the root ball. Some gardeners prefer to secure the plant’s branches gently with burlap and twine to reduce the chance of damaging the plant before removing it from the ground.
To re-plant the root ball, you’ll need to tilt on its side and place it on a tarp or in a wheelbarrow and transport it to its new location quickly. Place the plant in its new home. Backfill the hole with a mixture of fresh planting mix and existing soil leaving no gaps, water thoroughly and mulch. Mulch will keep the plant’s roots cool, help prevent weeds and keep the soil moist. Keep the mulch at least 2 inch away from the trunk of the plant.
Newly transplanted plants need some tender care and especially need to be watered regularly until winter so the roots don’t try out but do not overwater as root rot could occur. Fertilize your hydrangea the following summer when you see the plant growing again.
my hydrangea
I have 2 bushes next to my house with azaleas in front of them. We planted them when we first moved here 10 years ago, they have never bloomed! I am thinking to moving them where they would get more sun and there are no other plants. Any suggestions?
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