Planting
Where to Plant Peaches
For the best fruit production, peach trees should be planted in an area that receives full sun all day long. The morning sun is especially crucial because it helps to dry morning dew off the fruit and keeps it from rotting. Be sure to avoid planting in low areas, too, as cold air and frost can more easily settle there and affect the quality of your peaches.
Choose a site with well-draining, moderately fertile soil. Peach trees won’t do well in areas where the soil is compacted or remains constantly wet. Soil pH should be on the slightly-acidic side, between 6 and 6.5.
When to Plant Peach Trees
- Peach trees should be planted while they are dormant—typically in late winter or early spring (depending on climate).
- In regions where the ground freezes during winter, hold off on planting until the soil has thawed and the ground is no longer waterlogged from snowmelt or heavy spring rains.
- It’s best to plant the trees the same day that you get them (if possible) to reduce stress on the seedling or sapling. Potted trees can tolerate not being planted for a little while, but bare-root trees should be planted as soon as possible.
- Select a tree that is about 1 year old and has a healthy root system. Older trees tend not to be as productive or vigorous overall.
How to Plant Peach Trees
- Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
- For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using clean shears to cut through the offending roots. (Keep root pruning to a minimum, overall.)
- For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
- Tip: Especially for dwarf or semi-dwarf grafted trees, the graft union must be 2 to 3 inches above the soil surface. If it’s any lower, the grafted tree (called the scion) may start to put out its own roots and grow into a standard-size tree.
- Do not fertilize at the time of planting.
- If you are planting standard-size trees, space them 15 to 20 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 10 to 12 feet apart.
- Most types of peach trees are self-fertile, so planting one tree is all that’s needed for fruit production.
Check out our video to learn more about how to plant a bare–rooted fruit tree.
An Alternative Planting Method
If your circumstances are suitable, you might want to try a technique practiced in England. It involves planting a peach tree—ideally a dwarf variety—on the south side of the home (or other structure), directly under the eaves. Over time, the gardener prunes and trains the peach tree to espalier in a fan shape against or very near to the wall of the house.
Plastic sheeting is attached to the eaves and draped to cover but not touch the tree, similar to a lean-to tent. This keeps the tree dry in winter, and the tree enjoys the warmth of the sun—directly and reflected off the house—year-round. The plastic should be opened or lifted during bloom time to welcome pollinating insects and on hot, sunny days to ventilate the tree and prevent foliage burn.
Harvesting
- Peaches are harvested when they are fully ripe from late June through July and August.
- With peaches, it’s especially important to harvest at the RIGHT time.
- Though this timing depends on what type of peach variety, you can generally go by the color of the fruit. When peaches are fully ripe, the ground color of the fruit changes from green to completely yellow. No green should be left on the fruit. They should come off the tree with only a slight twist. The fruits found on the top and outside of the tree usually ripen first.
- Be careful when picking your peaches because some varieties bruise very easily.
- Tip: Peaches ripen faster in a closed paper bag at room temperature.
How to Store Peaches
- You can store peaches in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. They should keep for about 5 days.
- You can also make use of fresh peaches by making peach jam or peach butter.
- Peaches can also be canned or frozen for storage.
Types
- ‘Redhaven’, which is the standard and most popular choice. These peaches are medium-size, but can be small if the tree is not properly thinned. Its skin is tough and firm and red in color.
- ‘Reliance’, which is a hardy variety. It produces small and soft fruits.
- ‘Harmony’ (‘Canadian Harmony’), which is winter hardy and moderately resistant to bacterial leaf spot. It produces medium to large fruit and freezes well.
- Some zone favorites are:
| Zone | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
| Variety | Hale | Madison | Saturn | Contender | Frost | Topaz | Florida Beauty |
Downstate NY, such as around NYC or Long Island, is in Zones 6 and 7. Other southern regions of NY state, such as in the Binghamton area, are more in Zone 5. The donut peach has been bred to grow as far north as Zone 5, but sometimes has difficulty in the coldest zone. But Zones 6 and warmer should be OK. Make sure that the peach tree is receiving full sun. Ideally, peaches like moist, well-drained, sandy loam. Check for diseases such as peach leaf curl. You can ripen peaches that have already been picked by placing them in a paper bag on a counter, and storing them for a few days at room temperature (putting them in the refrigerator will stop ripening). Hope this helps!
Peach trees, unlike apple and pear and plum trees, do not require a pollinator. They are self-pollinating. That said, most expert still recommend planting another variety in your yard for optimum fruit production. Make sure you ask a tree nursery which types of peach trees pollinate each other.
And remember that climate is the most important factor. Make sure that the tree is recommended for your hardiness zone. Peach trees tend to grow best in zones 5 to 8, but there are also cold-hardy types for the cooler climates in parts of the north (Zone 4) and heat-tolerant varieties for the warmer climates in parts of the south and west (Zone 9).
Most container plants need protection in winter—indoors, even if it's a garage. Roots (on anything) in a container have greater exposure than those in the ground. And size is container size is relative; usually a 5-gallon container is minimum recommended, but a 15- to 20-gallon container is better.
Your local cooperative extension may be able to give you better/more specific advice re the local weather, your container, and the variety of peach. Find your state and then the service here: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services
For yellow leaves that are falling off, this indicates you need more water applied each time you water.
If the soil is covered with a 3 to 4-inch layer of mulch on the surface, then you should be able to squeeze two to three days between irrigations, provided enough water is applied.
Make sure the applied water is wetting the soil 18 to 24 inches deep. Use a metal rod, rebar or long screwdriver to judge the depth of the watering. Push it into the soil after watering and see when it is hard to push any more.
Peach trees that are 7 feet tall and 7 feet wide should receive about 90 gallons of water each week. This can be applied with drip irrigation or a level basin built around the tree about 6 feet in diameter and 4 inches deep.
It is virtually impossible to keep squirrels out of fruit trees because of their superb climbing and jumping ability. You can protect the crop by netting it. While squirrels can readily gnaw through the plastic netting, they may not persist if enough alternative food is easily available. Another idea is to leave one tree un-netted and sacrifice it to the squirrels who will avoid the other trees.
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