Planting
Where to Plant Peaches
For the best fruit production, peach trees should be planted in an area that receives full sun all day long. The morning sun is especially crucial because it helps to dry morning dew off the fruit and keeps it from rotting. Be sure to avoid planting in low areas, too, as cold air and frost can more easily settle there and affect the quality of your peaches.
Choose a site with well-draining, moderately fertile soil. Peach trees won’t do well in areas where the soil is compacted or remains constantly wet. Soil pH should be on the slightly-acidic side, between 6 and 6.5.
When to Plant Peach Trees
- Peach trees should be planted while they are dormant—typically in late winter or early spring (depending on climate).
- In regions where the ground freezes during winter, hold off on planting until the soil has thawed and the ground is no longer waterlogged from snowmelt or heavy spring rains.
- It’s best to plant the trees the same day that you get them (if possible) to reduce stress on the seedling or sapling. Potted trees can tolerate not being planted for a little while, but bare-root trees should be planted as soon as possible.
- Select a tree that is about 1 year old and has a healthy root system. Older trees tend not to be as productive or vigorous overall.
How to Plant Peach Trees
- Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
- For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using clean shears to cut through the offending roots. (Keep root pruning to a minimum, overall.)
- For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
- Tip: Especially for dwarf or semi-dwarf grafted trees, the graft union must be 2 to 3 inches above the soil surface. If it’s any lower, the grafted tree (called the scion) may start to put out its own roots and grow into a standard-size tree.
- Do not fertilize at the time of planting.
- If you are planting standard-size trees, space them 15 to 20 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 10 to 12 feet apart.
- Most types of peach trees are self-fertile, so planting one tree is all that’s needed for fruit production.
Check out our video to learn more about how to plant a bare–rooted fruit tree.
An Alternative Planting Method
If your circumstances are suitable, you might want to try a technique practiced in England. It involves planting a peach tree—ideally a dwarf variety—on the south side of the home (or other structure), directly under the eaves. Over time, the gardener prunes and trains the peach tree to espalier in a fan shape against or very near to the wall of the house.
Plastic sheeting is attached to the eaves and draped to cover but not touch the tree, similar to a lean-to tent. This keeps the tree dry in winter, and the tree enjoys the warmth of the sun—directly and reflected off the house—year-round. The plastic should be opened or lifted during bloom time to welcome pollinating insects and on hot, sunny days to ventilate the tree and prevent foliage burn.
Harvesting
- Peaches are harvested when they are fully ripe from late June through July and August.
- With peaches, it’s especially important to harvest at the RIGHT time.
- Though this timing depends on what type of peach variety, you can generally go by the color of the fruit. When peaches are fully ripe, the ground color of the fruit changes from green to completely yellow. No green should be left on the fruit. They should come off the tree with only a slight twist. The fruits found on the top and outside of the tree usually ripen first.
- Be careful when picking your peaches because some varieties bruise very easily.
- Tip: Peaches ripen faster in a closed paper bag at room temperature.
How to Store Peaches
- You can store peaches in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. They should keep for about 5 days.
- You can also make use of fresh peaches by making peach jam or peach butter.
- Peaches can also be canned or frozen for storage.
Types
- ‘Redhaven’, which is the standard and most popular choice. These peaches are medium-size, but can be small if the tree is not properly thinned. Its skin is tough and firm and red in color.
- ‘Reliance’, which is a hardy variety. It produces small and soft fruits.
- ‘Harmony’ (‘Canadian Harmony’), which is winter hardy and moderately resistant to bacterial leaf spot. It produces medium to large fruit and freezes well.
- Some zone favorites are:
| Zone | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
| Variety | Hale | Madison | Saturn | Contender | Frost | Topaz | Florida Beauty |
Comments
Peach trees experience something called "June drop," which is when they naturally thin our their fruits and drop most of the weakest ones in late spring or early summer. However, if your peach tree dropped all of its fruit, it could be due to a weak pollinating season, lack of water or nutrients, a late frost, or some sort of pest or disease. Or, like you said, it could have been squirrels and birds! It's hard to know for sure. Next year, it certainly wouldn't hurt to place netting over the tree once fruits start developing.
Hi, Darrel: Thank you for such an extensive description of your situation! It sounds like you have a handle on the watering situation, which is not to. Even though your new tree is high in the ground, it is still basically sitting on a pan of clay, which will keep water around. But to us the key here is "it produced [for] a couple of years." If you don't have/can't see any disease/pests and if there is not too much water, then this tells us that your soil may have become deficient, particularly in nitrogen and/or potassium. So get a soil test kit from your local home or garden supply store or your USDA county extension and test both at the base of the tree and about 4 feet out. If necessary, amend the soil slowly and carefully to bring it to what your peach needs (do online research on this). If your soil is OK, then it is still a water issue and deeper drainage solutions may be necessary. Remember that while unlikely, it is possible that the top of your clay-y subsoil layer is not horizontal. You could actually be watering a surface that is even with or sloping away from the tree, but at the same time the clay layer underneath could be sloping toward the tree. Complicated, but the key thing is that it did well once, so let's hope that it's the soil. Thanks for asking and good luck!
Hi, George: Wow -- we know somebody in Katy named George! Listen, it sounds as though your tree still has a chance, especially if you don't see black or brown dead tissue. The buds are supposed to protect the green flower parts underneath, so hopefully this is exactly what they've done. Thanks for asking and good luck!
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There are a number of reasons why this might be happening; scientists do not know for certain.
Here are a few theories:
• cultural/environmental factors that effect pollination, flower fertilization and fruit set.
• foliage damaged by diseases (scab, for example) and/or insects (stink bug or curculio have been suggested)
• fruit drop can be heavier on young, vigorous trees
• rainfall, esp after a dry period can cause fruit drop
• some scientists think competition for water and nutrients causes fruit drop (are they getting enough?)
You might want to contact your local cooperative extension service (find it here: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services ). These folks are quite knowledgeable and may have experience with this or know someone who has...and can provide more insight.