Pumpkins are sensitive to transplanting and cold weather, so it’s best to sow seeds directly outdoors well after the danger of frost is past and soil has warmed to around 65° to 95°F (18° to 35°C). Make sure to check seed packets for “days to harvest” information if you want to harvest pumpkins in time for Halloween. Different varieties mature at different rates; however, planting seeds by late May in northern climates or as late as early July in the deep south should ensure most varieties have enough time to mature before frost.

If you’re working with a very short growing season, you can also sow seeds indoors about 2 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost. Just make sure to use biodegradable pots to minimize root disturbance and harden the seedlings off before transplanting them outside when the weather warms.

Where to Plant Pumpkins

Compared to other crops, pumpkins are particularly demanding about space, so always ensure that you provide enough space for the varieties you’d like to grow. Ideally, you’ll want around 1,000 square feet per plant for giant types, 50 to 100 square feet for regular-size varieties, and about 15 to 36 square feet for miniature types. That said, you can keep small varieties like ‘Baby Boo’ or ‘Small Sugar’ in 20 to 25-gallon containers and use a small trelllis to train their trailing vines.

Aside from space constrants, full sun and fertile, moist, and well-draining soil is a must for growing pumpkins. I always recommend blending plenty of compost or aged manure about 12 to 15-inches deep into the soil before planting seeds. You can also plant pumpkins atop simple “melon pits” to fuel their growth.

How to Plant Pumpkins

Pumpkins can either be planted in rows, in hills, or solo in pots depending on your space.

In hills, plant 4 to 5 seeds per hill, space hills 4 feet apart, and thin the seedlings to 2 to 3 plants per hill once their true leaves form. If you’re short on space, direct the vines to the outer edge of the garden bed. Hills can either be mounded or flat, but mounding soil helps it warm up faster in spring and drain better!
In rows, sow seeds 6 to 12 inches apart and then thin the seedlings to one plant every 18 to 36 inches when they’re a few inches tall. Individual rows should be spaced 8 feet from each other.
In pots, select containers that are 20 to 25-gallons in size and small varieties of pie or miniature pumpkins. Installing a trellis at planting time can help you avoid damaging delicate vines later on.

To plant, set the seeds 1 inch deep in rich soil or seed starting mix and keep the seeds good and moist until they germinate.

In this video, Ben shows us his method for growing pumpkins!

Growing

Watering

Pumpkins need about 1-inch of water per week, either from your hose or rainfall. For best results, water plants deeply in the morning and on very hot afternoons — especially during fruit set — and do your best to direct water straight to the plant roots. Keeping pumpkins leaves dry is one of the best ways to avoid rot and common diseases like powdery mildew.

Fertilizing

Blending compost or aged manure into the soil before planting helps pumpkins grow better and encourages larger fruit production. After that, side-dress plants with additional aged manure or compost mixed with water as needed and feed with a high nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are about 1-foot tall and the vines are just about to run. When flower buds form, switch to a high phosphorus fertilizer to fuel rapid pumpkin growth.

Pruning or Maintenance

Covering pumpkins with row covers early in the season can reduce some pest problems, but covers need to be removed before flowering to allow for pollination. Bees and other pollinators are essential for pumpkin growth, so avoid using pesticides whenever possible and consider growing flowering companion plants near pumpkins to increase pollinator activity. Placing a bee house in your garden is an effective way to draw bees in too.

Careful pruning can reduce disease, increase fruit size, and is key if you want to grow prize winning pumpkins. To do this, pinch off the fuzzy ends of pumpkin vines after a few pumpkins form to stop vine growth and focus the plant’s energy on fruiting. Once the fruit develops, remove all but the best 1 to 3 pumpkins per plant as well as all late blooming flowers, prune the main and secondary vines to 10 to 15 feet, cut away the smaller, tertiary vines, and bury the cut vine tips in the soil to optimize fruit development.

As the fruit matures, turn pumpkins carefully to encourage even growth. Placing a thin board, stone, or piece of tile under pumpkins can protect fruit from rot and pest damage as well.

Tip: If your first flowers aren’t forming fruits, that’s normal. Both male and female blossoms need to open for pollination to occur. Patience is key!

Seasonal Care

Maintaining a regular watering and fertilizing regimen is essential if you want to grow the best pumpkins. It’s also a good idea to add mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds. When needed, weed carefully to avoid damaging delicate pumpkin roots and vines.

If you’re growing pumpkins on a trellis, support developing fruit with a hammock or old nylon stocking to prevent vine breaks.

Harvesting

When to Harvest

Pumpkins should be harvested when they’re fully ripe and reach the mature size of the variety of pumpkin you’re growing. Most pumpkins take 90 to 120 days to mature; however, it’s best to use visual cues to determine if pumpkins are ready to pick or not.

Color. Pumpkin rinds should turn a deep, solid color as the fruit ripens. This is orange for most varieties, but can vary.
Stem. Stems will harden and take on a brown, woody appearance or detach from the vine all on their own.
Sound. Thump the pumpkin with a finger. If it sounds hollow, the pumpkin may be ready.
Fingernail test. Press a fingernail into the pumpkin’s skin. If it’s hard and resists puncturing, it’s ripe!

How to Harvest

Ideally, pumpkins should be harvested on a sunny day when the weather is dry.

To harvest, cut the fruit from the vine with a sharp knife or pair of pruners and leave about 3 to 4-inches of stem attached to each fruit. Handle pumpkins gently to reduce brusing and never carry them by their stems to avoid accidental falls.

Storage

Before storage, carving, or use, pumpkins should be cured by placing them in a protected, sunny spot for 10 days. During this time, temperatures should stay between 80º to 85ºF and humidity levels should hover around 80 to 85%. This process toughens pumpkin rinds so they store better, helps minor abraisions heal over, and intensifies pumpkin flavor.

After curing, store pumpkins in a cool, dry cellar or root cellar at 50º to 55ºF for 2 to 3 months. If you’re carving pumpkins, carve them no more than 3 days before Halloween or the pumpkin will begin to rot.

Check out this video for tips on curing and storing pumpkins.

Pests and Problems

Environmental factors like poor lighting, inclement weather, and reduced pollinator activity can result in poor fruit set and other issues. No matter what types of pumpkins you’re growing, here are some common problems to be on guard for and what to do about them.

Common Problems

Poor fruiting or flower drop may indicate pumpkin flowers aren’t being properly pollinated. Growing flowering companion plants and avoiding pesticides can naturally invite bees and other beneficial bugs in!
Blossom-end rot can produce sunken spots on the blossom end of developing fruit. This is usually caused by irregular watering, buy may also indicate pumpkins are craving extra calcium

Common Pests

Aphids are sap-sucking insects that can cause pumpkins to develop distorted leaves or coat plants with a sticky “honeydew” residue. Companion planting can naturally reduce aphid activity, while active infestations can be managed by spraying plants with your hose or regular applications of an organic insecticidal soap spray.
Cucumber beetles target plants in the Curcurbit family, and pumpkins are no exception. Installing row covers at the beginning of the season can help keep these wee, striped beetles from munching holes in pumpkin leaves, while hand-picking is the best way to reduce active problems.

Plant Diseases

Anthracnose is a fungal issue that causes spotting on pumpkin leaves and sunken lesions on fruit. The best way to control its spread is to destroy infected plants, purchase disease resistant varieties, and avoid overhead watering.
Powdery mildew and downy mildew are also caused by fungal spores and can cause spotting on pumpkin leaves or stunt pumpkin growth. Watering plants at the soil line and spacing pumpkins well apart should naturally reduce mildew issues, or you can preventatively spray plants with a mixture of 40% milk and 60% water.

Types

Pumpkins come in different sizes and colors and can be used for different purposes. Athough all pumpkins are technically edible, some are better for carving or display, while others are ideal for cooking. Knowing how you’d like to use pumpkins will help you select the very best varieties for your goals!

Miniature pumpkins like ‘Jack Be Little’ and ‘We-B-Little’ are great for ornamental use and small spaces. They’re also super productive and easy to grow.
Carving pumpkins like ‘Autumn Gold’ or ‘Merlin’ are the pumpkins you want for jack-o-lanterns.
Pie pumpkins like ‘Sugar Treat’ and ‘Peanut Pumpkin’ are prized for their sweet flesh and can be used for pies, soups, curries, and purees.

a green pumpkin turning orange on the vine — *Image: Arina P Habich/Shutterstock*

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

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Comments

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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 07/24/2012 - 11:26

It's best to create a grass-free plot for pumpkins. Grass competes with pumpkins. Mulch the plot to prevent grass growth, but keep mulch away from root area. Once the grass grows in, it's very difficult to pull because pumpkins do not like the soil near them to be disturbed and it is easy to break vines.

Anonymous Sun, 07/22/2012 - 11:03

After I have harvested my pumpkins I give them a water and splash of bleach bath. Do not get top of pumpkin/ stem wet. I use a rag and wipe them down,then dry. This makes your pumpkins clean and polished. Mine last through the winter into spring here in central valley, CA. Then I create a pumpkin graveyard where I watch them break down, collect seeds, or bury pumpkin and watch it grow again! It's a beautiful cycle to watch. When the graveyard produces orange pumpkins by July it just gets me excited to plant more for October deadline. Oh, and the park walkers on my block love to watch them transform and grow!

Anonymous Thu, 07/19/2012 - 12:22

I had planted the seeds this June and now the plant has vines which is climbing on a stick I put in the ground. I see lots of yellow flowers which have bloomed. Am i close to getting a pumkin soon :) the vine is about 6 ft long now. and still continues to grow and climb up. Flowers open and close. I have put the garden dust to stop pests. Also watering the pumpkins generously. It rained a lot here yesterday as well in Long Island , NY Any help is appreciated Thanks Deno

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 07/20/2012 - 11:45

If the plants are getting pollinated (by bees), you'll get fruit! A couple of tips: 1. At this stage, take care not to overfertilize; too much nitrogen can cause a plant to flower but not fruit. 2. If you use any insecticides, only apply in late afternoon or early evening when the blossoms have closed for the day or the bees won't be able to visit and pollinate.

Anonymous Fri, 07/27/2012 - 15:12

first time pumpkin grower, thank goodness I did not grow too many other plants. The Pumpkins are taking over in a good way. The Bee count seems to be low in central CA. so I'm worried about pollination. Thanks for advice. p.s. what about self pollination with a Q-tip or something like that.

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 07/30/2012 - 16:33

If you're worried about bee activity (or lack of), you can hand pollinate. Tansfer the pollen from the male to the female flowers by using a small artists paint brush when the flowers are open in the morning. Be sure that you do not use any pesticides which kill the pollinators (bees).

Anonymous Tue, 07/17/2012 - 01:33

What sort of special considerations would you need to make when growing pumpkin vines in buckets instead of the ground?

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 07/18/2012 - 11:47

You may wish to consider a pumpkin variety that's more compact. Suggestions are: Autumn Gold Hybrid, Bushkin, Jack Be Little, Small Sugar, and Baby Boo. Use a 5-gallon container with drainage holes. We're not sure where you live, but here's a good link with basic container guidelines: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1645.html

Anonymous Thu, 07/12/2012 - 12:14

In our first attempt at planting pumpkins, we may have started too early. We already have orange, large pumpkins. Approximately how long with they last after harvesting, if we store them in a cool garage? We grew these to donate to our school for the Fall decoration scene, but Fall seems so far away. I want them to last. Any suggestions?

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Sat, 07/14/2012 - 22:11

Store pumpkins in a cool, dry, dark place (not inside). If you store in a dry place between 50 and 55 degrees, the pumpkins should last about 6 months. When storing, do not stack them or let them touch each other. They are best stored sitting on a board or cardboard or straw about 2 inches apart. Not a cement floor. One of our readers shared a tip: Wash the pumpkins in a very mild chlorine solution (one cup of chlorine to one gallon of water. This gets rid of bacteria which causes rot. Then thoroughly dry.

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How to Plant and Grow Pumpkins