Roses (Rosa spp.) are popular garden shrubs, and with the right conditions, they are easier to grow than many gardeners expect.
Understanding a few basic growing needs—such as space, sunlight, and blooming habits—can make a big difference in how well your roses perform.
What Roses Need to Grow Well
Space and Mature Size
Roses vary in size, so it’s important to know how large a plant will be at maturity. Some roses stay compact at under 3 feet tall, while others grow much larger and need more room.
Giving roses enough space improves air circulation, reduces disease problems, and helps plants bloom more reliably.
Sunlight
Most roses grow best with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. More sun generally means stronger growth and better flowering.
Some roses tolerate partial shade, but flowering may be lighter in less sun.
Blooming Habits
Roses differ in how often they bloom. Some flower once per season, while others bloom repeatedly from spring through fall.
For continuous color, look for roses labeled repeat-blooming or continuous bloom.
While roses vary in size and bloom habits, most garden roses share the same basic growing needs, making them easier to care for than many gardeners expect.
Types
Roses can feel overwhelming when you’re new to them. No need to learn the whole rose universe right away—or start with the fussy types. Let’s begin with sturdy, low‑maintenance roses that give you the best chance of success.
Botanically, roses fall into three broad groups (species, old garden, and modern), but beginners will find it most helpful to choose by growth habit: shrubs, climbers, hybrid teas, or miniatures.
Choosing Your First Rose
If you’re new to roses, start with a shrub rose. They’re the toughest, most low‑maintenance roses you can grow.
Shrub Roses (Rose Bushes)
Shrub roses form rounded, bushy plants and are the most reliable, low‑maintenance roses for new gardeners. They bloom generously, resist disease, and need very little pruning.
Examples:
- Knock Out Roses — continuous bloom, excellent disease resistance; hardy in Zones 5–10
- Flower Carpet Roses — groundcover style, nonstop flowers; hardy in Zones 4–10
- Rugosa Roses — incredibly hardy, fragrant, and tough; many varieties (like ‘Jens Munk’) hardy to Zone 2
If you’re just starting out, shrub roses are your safest, easiest choice. See 3 easy roses for beginners!
Climbing Roses
Climbers send out long canes that need support from a trellis, fence, or arbor. They’re stunning but require training and a bit more attention, so many beginners add them after they’ve grown a shrub rose or two.
Examples:
- ‘Gertrude Jekyll’ (David Austin) — repeat‑blooming, fragrant; hardy in Zones 4–11
- ‘New Dawn’ — hardy, forgiving, blush‑pink; Zones 5–9
- ‘Don Juan’ — deep red, sweet fragrance; Zones 6–9
- ‘Iceberg’ — white, heat‑tolerant, disease‑resistant; Zones 4–9
Hybrid Tea Roses
These are the classic long‑stemmed roses you see in bouquets. They produce beautiful, elegant blooms — and they’re also the fussiest. Hybrid teas often need more pruning, feeding, and disease prevention, so they’re usually not a beginner’s first rose.
Examples:
- ‘Pink Peace’ — large, fragrant blooms; hardy in Zones 5–10
- ‘Sunsprite’ (‘KORresia’) — compact yellow floribunda; fragrant and disease‑resistant; Zones 5–9
Miniature Roses
Small, compact roses that stay tidy in containers or small gardens. They bloom repeatedly and are surprisingly tough, but need extra care if grown in pots. Most varieties fall within Zones 5–9.
See also our list of disease-resistant rose varieties.
More Like This
It's best to hold off on fertilizing your newly planted bareroot roses until after they have finished blooming. At that time, test the soil again: the dried cow manure and miracle gro soil may have contributed to the nitrogen and other nutrients. If the soil is still low in nitrogen, you might add a little to the area if needed, according to manufacturer's directions.
Also, keep up with the watering to help the plants establish themselves.
Do not plant until after the last frost is safely behind you and the ground has thawed so that you can dig a hole, but before the hot summer weather arrives. The roots grow well in cool weather.
Before you pull them, look carefully:
• are there any buds (tiny raised reddish nubs) anywhere on the canes?
• are there green or deep red sems at the base of the plant?
• scratch the cane with a fingernail; is there green tissue under the surface? If not, the cane is dead.
• using clean pruning shears, cut the dead cane/s back to any green wood and remove any canes that crowd in the center
• in a week or two, check for nubs (beginning buds) or new shoots; allow more time, if the plant is old
• if all else fails, gently unearth the base of the plant and check to see if it has light-colored, strong roots. If it does not, it has not survived.
It sounds like your Tiffany and Tropicana roses suffered freeze damage, which can blacken the stems. Once the threat of frost/freeze/snow is over, then prune them back to healthy wood, just above an outward facing leaf bud. Pruning them too soon will encourage new growth that is more susceptible to cold temperatures.
If you haven't already, you might consider winter protection. Even after spring has arrived, but you are expecting temperatures around freezing, you might want to offer the more tender roses some cover. For winter protection ideas, you might be interested in: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/roses/winter.cfm
Hope this helps!
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