Caption
African Violets are delightful houseplants and will brighten up any room with their purple, pink, or white colors.
Planting
How to Plant African Violets
- You can use an African violet–specific potting mix or an all-purpose potting mix, as long as it is well-draining. Here’s how to create your own mix.
- Keep African violets planted in small pots and repot every few years in fresh potting mix. Being a bit pot-bound encourages African violets to bloom more, so don’t be too quick to give them more space.
- The potting mix should be loose and well-draining; high organic matter content is a plus. Learn about organic soil amendments.
- When repotting African violets, don’t plant them any deeper than they were planted previously, and be careful not to bury the crown. African violets‘ stems can be susceptible to rot if kept too moist.
Growing
How to Care for African Violets
- According to Julie Weisenhorn, an Extension educator at the University of Minnesota, “If you are comfortable, your African violet is comfortable.” Optimal room temperature for growing African violets is between 60° and 80°F and ideally 70°F.” However, some are more tolerant of cooler conditions. In any case, keep them away from drafty windows in winter.
- Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow, but keeping African violets slightly root-bound can encourage them to bloom. One sign that your violet needs repotting is wilted leaves.
- The fuzzy leaves have a tendency to collect dust and dirt. Brush them off gently with a small, soft-bristled paintbrush.
For more information on African violets, visit the website of the African Violet Society of America.
African Violet Troubleshooting Chart
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| No flowers | Too little light; too much nitrogen; plant too cold | Move to bright, indirect light; switch to a bloom-boosting fertilizer; keep temps 65°–75°F |
| Leaves turning yellow | Overwatering; poor drainage; old leaves | Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings; use a pot with drainage; remove aging outer leaves |
| Wilting leaves | Root rot or underwatering | Check soil moisture; trim rotted roots and repot in fresh mix; water consistently |
| Mushy or collapsing crown | Crown rot from cold water or water sitting on leaves | Water from the bottom; avoid splashing leaves; keep water lukewarm |
| Brown leaf spots | Cold water; sun scorch | Use room-temperature water; keep out of direct sunlight |
| Pale or stretched leaves | Insufficient light | Move plant closer to a bright window or use grow lights |
| Curled or brittle leaves | Low humidity; cold drafts | Increase humidity with a tray or humidifier; move away from vents |
| White crust on soil | Salt buildup from fertilizer or hard water | Flush soil monthly with distilled water; fertilize lightly |
| Slow growth | Root-bound plant; nutrient deficiency | Repot every 6–12 months; fertilize regularly at low strength |
| Flowers fade quickly | Heat stress; dry air | Keep temperatures moderate; increase humidity |
Use room-temperature water, as chilled water can leave marks on the leaves.
Leaves are susceptible to rot and fungal spots if kept in high humidity, so water African violets from the bottom to avoid getting excess water on the foliage.
Artificial lighting works well, too. Use fluorescent or LED bulbs to supplement natural lighting.
Thin, dark green leaves and leggy stems tell you the plant is getting too little light; light green or bleached leaves indicate too much light.
Overfertilizing is a more common problem than underfertilizing since most potting mixes come infused with plenty of nutrients.
Types
Hundreds of varieties and hybrids exist, from miniature violets to trailing varieties! They differ mainly in the colors of their flowers, which range from white to purple, though some varieties also have variegation in their foliage and flowers.
African violets are typically classified by size, based on how wide they grow:
- Miniature: less than 8 inches across
- Standard: 8–16 inches across
- Large: more than 16 inches across
More Like This
1. Yes, the pot should have a drainage hole in the bottom to allow excess water to drain away, helping to prevent root rot.
2. If the flowers themselves are brown and droopy, the flowers have already started to die, which is entirely natural. Snip off the dead flowers and care for the plants according to the advice above; they should eventually bloom again.
3. During winter, houseplants should generally be watered less often, so it's advised to allow them to dry out a bit between waterings. Come spring, when the plants will be in active growth, a self-watering bulb could be useful for keeping the soil moist. African violets are quite susceptible to rot, however, so if your home is particularly humid, you may not want to use the bulb.
We would suggest that you contact Holtkamp Greenhouses Inc., the largest producer of African violets in the world. They are a private company based our of Nashville. Suffice it say, it's a multi-million dollar business.
According to the African Violet Society, plastic pots are preferred by growers. Clay pots allow too much evaporation adn the soil will go dry at the top, probably because the moisture is evaporating out the sides. Select pots which were designed with rolled edges. That said, there are times when a clay pot is desirable-- most especially in hot climates or greenhouse growing. The evaporation from the clay works as a cooling device and actually keeps the roots cooler. Since many growers are in climate-controlled environments, this feature seems to be less important these days.
It's normal for violets to grow with a tight crown that spreads out over time, but it sounds like your plants' new growth could be stunted, which would cause a "traffic jam" of sorts in the center of the plant. Stunted growth can be caused by a number of things, but because you've tried adjusting your care in multiple ways already, you may want to try treating the plants for pests, specifically cyclamen mites. Cyclamen mites are tiny, nearly-invisible mites that attack new growth and can cause stunted growth if their numbers get out of control. Other symptoms of mites include grayish leaves and twisted leaves in the center of the plant.
First, you should isolate the affected plants away from other plants, then try a few rounds of treatment with an insecticidal soap spray, which you can find in most garden or hardware stores. Make sure it's meant for mites and other houseplant pests. Before you treat the whole plant, try the pesticide on a leaf or two, then wait about a day to make sure that there is no adverse reaction.
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