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Planting and Growing Bell Peppers

green bell peppers and red bell peppers on a plant in the garden
Image Credit:
D. Leonis/Getty Images
Sponsored Article:
Cummins
Botanical Name
Capsicum annuum
Grown as
Tender Perennial
USDA Zones
10a
10b
11a
11b
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Long Blooming
Attracts Pollinators
Resilience
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Whether you’re stuffing them, slicing them raw, or grilling them to perfection, growing your own bell peppers is an easy way to add color to your garden — and your dinner plate. 

In this guide, we’ll teach you how to grow your own bell peppers from seed or starter plants and how to help these sunshine-loving veggies produce their very best!

Planting

When to Plant Peppers

Peppers are slow-to-grow plants that take about 60 to 90 days to mature when grown from seed. To work around this long growing season, many gardeners purchase starter pepper plants from nurseries, which can be planted outside 2 to 3 weeks after the last spring frost or when soil temperatures have warmed to around 65°F (18°C). That said, if you have the patience, you can also start pepper seeds indoors in pots about 8 to 10 weeks before your last spring frost date and then move the transplants outside when the weather warms.

Where to Plant Peppers

Peppers are full sun plants that should be planted in a well-draining spot that receives at least 6 hours of light per day and has rich and moist (but not wet) soil. Mixing some compost into the soil before planting will help peppers grow better, while northern gardeners may want to warm the soil with black plastic for a few weeks before planting to speed up planting times. You can also grow peppers in a well-draining pot that’s at least 3 to 5-gallons in size.

Due to the risk of disease transmission, it’s best to avoid planting peppers in an area where you’ve recently grown other nightshade family members—such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants.

How to Plant Peppers

  • To start peppers indoors: Plant 2 pepper seeds per seedling cell or 3 per pot by burying the seeds 1/4-inch deep in seed starting mix. For faster germination, maintain soil at 70°F (21°C) or above with a heat mat. Move the seeds under bright grow lights, keep them well-watered until they sprout, thin out the weakest seedlings with fingernail scissors leaving just 1 plant per cell or 2 per pot, and repot the seedlings into bigger containers as needed until it’s time to move them outdoors.
  • To plant peppers outside: Wait until the weather warms and then harden indoor started plants or nusery starts off over the course of 1 to 2 weeks. Plant the seedlings in prepared soil at the same depth they were growing in their nursery pots or slightly deeper if their stems are leggy by burying the stems to the lowest set of leaves. If possible, transplant peppers on a cloudy day to reduce the risk of planting shock, plant peppers in their own pots or 12 to 18-inches apart in rows spaced 2 to 3-feet from each other, water well, and consider adding stakes or tomato cages to avoid disturbing plants later on.

Growing

Watering

Peppers should be watered regularly with about 1 to 2-inches of water per week. For best results, allow peppers to nearly dry out between waterings, then water them deeply, low and slow, and add a layer of mulch to lock in soil moisture levels. Make sure to keep up with a regular watering practice as irregular watering can lead to plant stress and issues like blossom end rot.

Fertilizing

Adding compost to the soil at planting time makes pepper plants more productive. After that, feed peppers regularly with an organic tomato fertilizer or other high potatssium fertilizer from the time the plants begin to produce flower buds. Bell peppers also do well with organic, balanced or low nitrogen, slow-release granular fertilizers.

Pruning or Maintenance

Bell peppers don’t need major pruning but they will grow bushier and produce more fruits if you pinch out the growing points at the top of the plant once the plants are about 8-inches tall.

Seasonal Care

Peppers are extremely heat-sensitive and may drop their blossoms if it’s too hot (above 85° to 90°F in daytime) or cold (below 60°F at night) or if water is inadequate. To avoid this fate, use shade cloth or row covers to protect bell peppers from heat stress or sunscald and cover plants with cloches or frost blankets if a cold snap passes through. Make sure to weed regularly to keep weeds from competing with bell peppers too!

 

Harvesting

When to Harvest

Begin harvesting bell peppers as soon as the plants begin fruiting and the peppers reach a usable size. You can harvest bell peppers when they’re green or when they reach their mature color, which may be red, orange, yellow, or even purple depending on the variety. Harvesting regularly prompts pepper plants to produce more fruit and safeguards harvests from pest damage; however, bell peppers get sweeter the longer they stay on the plant.

How to Harvest

To harvest bell peppers, hold the pepper stem and snip the stem off the plant with a clean pair of pruners, scissors, or a sharp knife. Don’t pull bell peppers off the plant as this can cause significant damage and make peppers less productive.

Storage

After harvesting, bell peppers should stay fresh in the cripsper drawer of your fridge for up to 10 days. For longer storage, you can also chop and freeze bell peppers, or wash, de-seed, chop and dry them in an oven or dehydrator set at 140°F for 4 to 6 hours.

Green and red bell peppers on plant

Pests and Problems

Just like other veggies, peppers can develop problems due to environmental stress, pests, or disease. Here are some of the most common complications you may encounter when growing bell peppers and what to do about it!

Common Problems

  • Flower drop and poor fruiting. Pollination can be reduced if temperatures fall below 60°F (16°C) or rise above 90°F (32°C), which can result in flower drop. Low humidity, lack of pollinators, and watering stress can also cause this issue, so it’s important to provide the care pepper plants need and encourage pollinators with companion planting.
  • Blossom end rot. Peppers may develop soft mushy sections on their ends if they don’t receive enough calcium or are watered irregularly. This is known as blossom end rot and can be corrected by adjusting watering schedules.
  • Sunscald. Sun damaged peppers may turn yellow or white on their upper margins and they can get mushy too. This usually results from overpruning plants and can be remedied with shade cloth and reduced pruning.
  • Yellowing leaves. Overwatering is the leading cause of yellow leaves in pepper plants, but leaf yellowing can also result from certain plant diseases and underwatering.

Common Pests

  • Aphids may leave a sticky coating on pepper plant leaves and cause leaf deformation. Usually aphids can be dislodged with a strong blast from your hose, but you can also treat them with weekly applications of organic soap spray.
  • Slugs and snails often chew ragged holes in developing peppers. Slug traps are the best way to manage these pests, but you can also remove them with hand-picking.
  • Spider mites also feed on plant sap and can leave peppers feeling sticky or cover them with tiny spider-like webs. Increasing watering and treating plants with organic soap spray should reduce mite issues quickly.
  • Deer typically leave peppers alone, but they may take big bites out of bell peppers if they get hungry enough. Growing deterrent plants and using motion-activated sprinklers or flood lights should keep these garden mauraders at bay,

Plant Diseases

  • Blight. A fungal issue, blight can leave lesions on plant stems and lead to rapid wilt. If this occurs, your best bet is to destroy infected plant parts, add mulch to reduce water splashing, and move peppers into a new section of your garden next season.
  • Mosaic virus. Commonly transmitted by aphids, mosaic virus can leave pepper leaves with a mottled yellow and green patterning, reduce fruit yields, and stunt plants too. There is no remedy for this disease, just destroy infected plants, sanitize the area, and grow peppers in a new part of your garden next time.

Types

Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!

  • Green peppers that turn Red: ‘Lady Bell’, ‘Gypsy’, ‘Bell Boy’, ‘Lipstick’
  • Orange: ‘Milena’, ‘Orange Sun’
  • Yellow: ‘Golden California Wonder’

Group of green bell peppers

Wit and Wisdom

  • Sweet bell peppers do not contain capsaicin, which is the compound that gives hot peppers their pungency and heat.
  • The green and red bell peppers we commonly see in supermarkets are the same pepper — the red bell peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer, which gives them more color, a sweeter taste, and a higher vitamin C content.
  • A popular myth states that pepper fruits can be either male or female—the difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, a sweeter taste, and more seeds. However, this is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender and differences between them are simply the result of growing conditions or variety.

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Antoinetterys</span> Fri, 09/05/2014 - 22:25
My dog got into the garden and the stem broke. It did not break all the way but it is severely cracked near the base of the plant. The plant already had a lot of vegetables and flowers growing on it. I added a pot to the side to help it stand and covered the crack with dirt. Is there a chance that the plant will survive or is it pretty much done for.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 09/08/2014 - 10:44

Only time will tell. If the injury left some of the vascular system intact, so that the plant juices and nutrients can still flow between the roots, stem, leaves, and fruit, then there might be a chance it will muddle through to the end of the season. But, the plant is now more susceptible to disease and insects, and may possibly go into shock. Providing support is good--do anything else that you can to coddle the plant so that it is under the least stress possible. Good luck!

 <span>Marlee</span> Sat, 08/23/2014 - 10:15
I put all my veggies in tires and they are doing great. Pepper plants are staring to lean do I need to build cages around them?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 08/29/2014 - 09:57
Your peppers will greatly appreciate some extra support.
<span>Karen Wingo</span> Sat, 08/09/2014 - 14:47
I have four or five organic red, yellow and orange sweet pepper plants. On only one plant, all the small peppers have black around the part of the plant closest to the place where the pepper began...and as they grow, they are turning black. Is this a disease and, if so, do I need to pull it up so my other pepper plants won't get it?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 08/11/2014 - 11:28

Do you mean the stem end or the bottom of the pepper? Black areas starting at the bottom of the pepper might be due to blossom end rot. This is caused by a calcium deficiency which can show up in dry weather or uneven watering. It might also happen if there is root damage, a lot of salts in the soil, or lots of nitrogen. In this case, you don't need to worry about other plants getting the disease, since it is a cultural problem. Mulch to maintain moisture, and water consistently. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer.

 

If the black area is at the stem end, it might be bacterial soft rot. This is caused by bacteria that causes watersoaked areas on the fruit, which rots. Leaves will wilt. Discard any affected fruit, and give your plants plenty of spacing so that they have good air circulation; keep up with pests; and mulch to keep the bacteria in the soil from splashing onto plants.

 

Or, perhaps the variety was mislabelled and it is actually a black sweet pepper? In which case it is just part of the ripening process.

 <span>Karen Wingo</span> Tue, 08/12/2014 - 08:35
It's right around the stem area of each pepper on this plant. It's brownish black, looks like some kind of accumulation of material and as soon as the peppers start growing about 3/4 of an inch, they start having these dark stripes in them. I pulled one off and cut it open but didn't see anything inside except seeds.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 08/12/2014 - 10:48

Hmm. Stripes can sometimes mean a virus (unless it is a natural feature of the fruit), especially if there are other signs, such as curling, mottled, or yellowing leaves; or misshapen fruit.

 

We'd suggest that you take a sample of the fruit and any other affected plant part to your local Cooperative Extension agent, or to a horticulturist at a local garden nursery. They might be able to identify the problem. For your Cooperative Extension contact information, see:

 

http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services

 

 <span>Phil And M</span> Sun, 08/03/2014 - 13:38
Hi, we're in Montreal, first time gardeners, and we planted three kinds of tomatoes, cucumbers, Anaheim peppers, Cubanelle peppers, leek, and red bell pepper; all were purchased as young plants and transplanted into the same garden on the same day (late May). Everything has worked great, notably due to advice on this site, with the exception of the leek plant (which appears to have just suddenly withered and died) and all five red bell pepper plants, which appear to be thriving but have yet to bear a single fruit, now early August. I understand from the comments here that the culprit here is usually non-optimal temperature, but I find it strange that all the other plants are producing extremely plentiful fruit. Any theories? Thank you!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 08/04/2014 - 13:51

Hot peppers can tolerate heat better than bells. Perhaps at the time of flowering, it was too hot for sufficient pollination for the bells, but the hot peppers came through? (That wouldn't explain the Cubanelles, though.) Too much nitrogen can also cause lack of flowering/fruiting, but the other plants seem to be OK. Are all plants getting the same amount of soil nutrients, sunlight, water, etc? If not, perhaps the area where the bells are is different enough to cause a problem.