Broccoli is a cool-season vegetable planted in spring. The deliciously tender spears of garden-grown broccoli are also incredibly good for you—the “crown jewel of nutrition.” See our guide (and new video) on growing broccoli from planting to harvest!
The common type of broccoli we see in grocery stores is “Calabrese broccoli” (named after Calabria in Italy). Planted in mid-spring, this variety produces big green heads on thick stalks.
Closely related to cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, and kohlrabi, this cole crop is worth growing for its nutritional content alone. It’s rich in vitamins and minerals as well as a good source of Vitamin A, potassium, folic acid, iron, and fiber.
Broccoli takes a long time to mature, so be patient! Once you harvest the main head of a broccoli plant, it will often keep producing smaller side shoots that can be enjoyed for months to come.
Broccoli should be planted in a site that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day). Lack of sunlight may produce thin, leggy plants and subpar heads.
Plant in a bed of moist, fertile soil that drains well. To increase fertility before you plant, in early spring, work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost (humus) or a thin layer of manure. The soil pH should ideally be slightly acidic, between 6.0 and 7.0.
When to Plant Broccoli
Broccoli is cool-season crop, so it should be started in early- to mid-spring (depending on your climate) for an early summer crop, or in mid- to late summer for a fall crop. High temperatures will affect development of the broccoli head (the harvestable part), so the goal is to get broccoli to mature before or after high temperatures are expected.
Broccoli seeds are capable of germinating in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C), but warmer soil is preferred and will greatly speed up development.
For spring plantings, broccoli may be started indoors or outdoors a few weeks ahead of your last spring frost date. Consult our Planting Calendar to see recommended dates for your area. Generally speaking:
Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.
Sow seeds outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost date, or as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring.
For fall plantings (best in warm climates), sow seeds outdoors 85 to 100 days before the first fall frost, when soil and ambient temperatures are high.
How to Plant Broccoli
If starting seeds outdoors, sow seeds 1/2-inch deep and 3 inches apart.
Once seedlings reach a height of& 2 to 3 inches, thin them so that plants are 12 to 20 inches apart.
If you started seeds indoors, plant transplants that are 4 to 6 weeks old (and have 4 or 5 leaves) outdoors, 12 to 20 inches apart, in holes slightly deeper than their container depth.
Space rows of broccoli 3 feet apart. (Closer spacing yields smaller main heads, but more secondary heads.)
Water well at the time of planting.
Video Demo of Sowing Broccoli
For those who wish to start sowing in pots, watch Ben in this video show you how it’s done! See the whole process from sowing to transplanting to broccoli care and harvesting.
Plants thrive in temperatures between 65° and 70°F (18° and 21°C).
Fertilize broccoli three weeks after transplanting seedlings into the garden. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula.
Thin when young plants reach 2 to 3 inches tall. Plants should be between 12 and 20 inches apart.
Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Water at least 1 to 1 1/2 inches per week.
Do not get developing broccoli heads wet when watering, as it can encourage rot.
Roots are very shallow, so try not to disturb the plants. Suffocate weeds with mulch.
Mulching around plants will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
Use row covers to minimize pests.
To promote the growth of a second head after the first has been harvested, maintain an active feeding and watering schedule.
‘Calabrese’ is an heirloom broccoli (from Italy) with large heads and prolific side shoots that will mature for harvesting. Great for fall planting, too.
‘Flash’ is a fast-growing, heat-resistant hybrid with good side-shoot production once the central head is cut. Great for fall planting, too.
‘Green Goliath’ is heat-tolerant with giant heads and prolific side shoots.
‘Green Duke’ is heat tolerant and an early variety that’s especially good for Southern gardeners.
‘Green Magic’ is heat tolerant; freezes well.
‘Paragon’ has extra-long spears; excellent for freezing.
Harvest broccoli in the morning, when the buds of the head are firm and tight, just before the heads flower.
If you do see yellow petals, harvest immediately, as the quality will decrease rapidly.
Cut heads from the plant, taking at least 6 inches of stem. Make a slanted cut on the stalk to allow water to slide away. (Water can pool and rot the center of a flat-cut stalk, runing the secondary heads.)
Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks, in some cases, from spring to fall, if your summer isn’t too hot.
Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of water and dish soap (no additives) every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects (such as ladybugs).
Large, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrement.
Handpick off plants; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; spray larvae with insecticidal soap or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)—a natural, bacterial pesticide; use row covers; remove plant debris at end of season.
Destroy infected plants; solarize soil; maintain soil pH of around 7.2; disinfect tools; rotate crops.
Yellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation.
Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering.
Bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant.
Supplement with a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Yellow/white blotches on leaves; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersides.
Destroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall.
Chalk-white blisters mainly on leaf undersides; small, yellow-green spots or blisters, sometimes in circular arrangement, on upper leaf surfaces; possible distortion or galls; flowers/stems may also be infected. More common with warm days and cool/moist nights.
Sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/ silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit viruses.
Remove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch.