Growing Bell Peppers

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Bell Peppers

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Sweet bell peppers are a tender, warm-season crop and a relative of the tomato. Here’s how to plant and grow bell peppers in your garden!

Peppers resist most garden pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet, or hot; and a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. On this page, we focus on growing sweet bell peppers.

Unlike their spicy brethren, bell peppers do not contain capsaicin, which is the compound that gives hot peppers such as jalapeño peppers their pungency and heat.

Common Bell Pepper Questions

Do different-colored peppers come from different plants?

Surprisingly enough, the green and red bell peppers that we commonly see in supermarkets are actually the same pepper; the red bell peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer, which changes their color and lets them develop a higher Vitamin C content. More mature peppers also tend to be sweeter than their greener counterparts.

However, there are quite a few varieties of bell peppers out there, including purple, yellow, orange, white, and brown ones.

Are there male and female peppers?

There is a popular myth which states that pepper fruits can be either male or female—the difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, have more seeds, are sweeter, and are better for eating raw. This is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender and any obvious difference between fruits is simply the result of growing conditions or variety.

Planting Dates for BELL PEPPERS

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

When to Plant Peppers

Peppers are a tender, warm-season crop, so they typically need to be started indoors if grown from seed. Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your last spring frost date.
Bell peppers require a fairly long growing season (60 to 90 days), which is another reason to start them indoors: they get a nice headstart!
If growing from nursery-bought transplants, plant them outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed. Be sure to harden young plants off prior to planting outdoors, as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

Pepper plants require full sun to produce the largest and healthiest fruit, so pick a site that won’t get shaded out by trees or other garden plants.
Soil should be well-draining and rich in organic matter. Peppers don’t like to have “wet feet,” so avoid planting them in locations that get too wet.
A soil consistency somewhere between sandy and loamy will ensure that the soil drains well and warms quickly.
Soil pH should be on the slightly acidic side—6.0 to 7.0, ideally.
A week before transplanting peppers into the garden, introduce fertilizer or aged compost into your garden soil. Alternatively, mix in a slow-release fertilizer.
Avoid planting peppers in places where you’ve recently grown other members of the nightshade family—such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants—as this can expose peppers to disease.

How to Plant Peppers

In most cases, we recommend starting seeds indoors rather than in the garden. However, if you live in a warm, frost-free area, peppers may be direct-seeded in the garden.
The soil temperature should be at least 70°F (21°C) for optimal seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results. Use a heat pad under the seed tray, if necessary.
Plant seeds about ¼-inch deep (or refer to the seed packet).

Transplanting Young Plants into the Garden

Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting outdoors, which should be done 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed in the spring.
Once nighttime temperatures reach at least 60°F (16°C), transplant seedlings outdoors, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart.
Plant the transplants no deeper than they were already planted in their pots; otherwise, the stems may become more susceptible to rot.
The soil temperature should be at least 60°F (16°C) at the time of planting (though warmer is better), as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures. Speed up the warming of the soil by covering it with black plastic or a dark mulch about a week before you intend to plant.

Check out this video to learn how to plant bell peppers:

Care

How to Grow Peppers

Soil should be well draining, but be sure to maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering. Read more about using mulch.
Water one to two inches per square foot per week, but remember that sweet peppers are extremely heat sensitive. They are also susceptible to blossom-end rot if watering is not adequate. If you live in a warm or desert climate, or are simply experiencing a hot, dry summer, watering everyday may be necessary.
Fertilize with a low-nitrogen fertilizer after the first fruit set. (Too much nitrogen can cause the plant to produce foliage instead of flowers and fruit!)
Weed carefully around plants to avoid disturbing roots.
If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.

Green bell peppers on plant

Pests/Diseases

Pest/Disease	Type	Symptoms	Control/Prevention
Anthracnose	Fungus	Yellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and fruit; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, plants rot	Destroy infected plants; choose resistent varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost for nutrition; use mulch; practice crop rotation. Find images and more information about anthracnose here.
Aphids	Insect	Misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement produced by aphids); sooty, black mold that forms on honeydew; large presence of ants on plants	Grow companion plants to either attract aphids away (nasturtiums) or repel them outright (basil, rosemary, strong-scented plants); knock aphids off plants with water spray, apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peel around plants; wipe leaves with a 1-2% solution of liquid dish soap and water every 2-3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to attract aphid predators. Find images and more information about aphids here.
Blossom-end Rot	Nutrient Deficiency	Caused by lack of sufficient calcium uptake. Symptoms: dark, water-soaked spots on blossom end of fruit (the side opposite the stem) may enlarge and become sunken, leathery, rotted	Remove affected fruit; plant at proper soil temperature; water deeply and evenly; use mulch; maintain proper soil pH (6.5) and nutrient levels; avoid excessive nitrogen; provide good drainage; avoid damaging roots. Find more images and information about blossom-end rot here.
Colorado Potato Beetles	Insect	Yellow-orange eggs laid in clusters on leaf undersides; larvae and adults chew holes in foliage	Remove eggs/larvae/beetles by hand; use straw mulch; weed around plants; use row covers; destroy plant matter at end of season; practice crop rotation
Flea Beetles	Insect	Numerous tiny holes in leaves (as if they had been hit by a tiny shotgun)	Use row covers to physically block flea beetles; mulch heavily; add native plants to attract beneficial insect predators. Find more information and images of flea beetles here.
Mosaic Virus (Cucumber)	Virus	Symptoms vary, but may include: stunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruit	Often spread by aphids. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect gardening tools after each use; keep garden weed-free; use mulch. Find images and more information about mosaic viruses here.
Root-knot Nematodes	Insect	Roots become “knotted” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wilted	Destroy affected plant matter (especially roots); choose resistant varieties; expose soil to sun (solarize); add aged manure/compost; disinfect gardening tools between uses; till soil in autumn; practice crop rotation
Tomato Hornworms	Insect	Chewed leaves (initially toward top of plant); rapid defoliation; black/green excrement; gouged fruit	Check undersides of leaves for hornworms, remove by hand and dispose of hornworms. (If you encounter hornworms that have white, ricelike cocoons on their backs, relocate them instead; the cocoons belong to beneficial parasitic wasps.) Till soil in autumn and spring; companion plant with dill/basil/marigolds to attract (and trap) or repel hornworms; spray plants with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Find images and more information about hornworms here.

Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60°F (16°C) and above 90°F (32°C).
Too much nitrogen in the soil can produce healthy foliage growth but discourage fruit from setting.

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Peppers

Harvest as soon as peppers reach desired size or color.
The longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their vitamin C content.
Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant.

How to Store Peppers

Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
Bell peppers can be dried, and we would recommend a conventional oven for the task:
- Wash, core, and seed the peppers. Cut into one-half-inch strips. Steam for about ten minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven at 140°F (or the lowest possible temperature) until brittle, stirring occasionally and switching tray positions. When the peppers are cool, put them in bags or storage containers.

Recommended Varieties

Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!

Green peppers that turn Red: ‘Lady Bell’, ‘Gypsy’, ‘Bell Boy’, ‘Lipstick’
…Orange: ‘Milena’, ‘Orange Sun’
…Yellow: ‘Golden California Wonder’

Wit & Wisdom

Recipes

Cooking Notes

To learn how to make pickled bell peppers, watch this video!
Get more tips on cooking with peppers.

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Reader Comments

Depending on where you live,

Depending on where you live, it is a little too cold now to grow peppers outdoors (they like warmth). In general, mini sweet bell peppers can grow in a 5-gallon pot, about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. One plant per pot. You can certainly grow them in a greenhouse. If you do not have a greenhouse, but have a location that will be about 70F to 80F or so in temperature consistently, then you can grow them indoors over winter. They will need about 14 to 16 hours of daylight or fluorescent grow lights (1 cool bulb type, 1 warm) per day. Set the plant lights about 4 to 6 inches above the plants. You will need to hand pollinate the flowers to encourage fruiting. Keep up with the watering. Good luck!

HI, Do you have a list of

HI, Do you have a list of effects of climate change in bell pepper? like high temperature and precipitation

I would like to overwinter my

I would like to overwinter my yellow bell peppers, but don't have enough space or light in the house. So I bought a portable Greenhouse (56 x 56 x 77 inches). The peppers are in air pruning pots and I live in zone 8b.
Will they make it alright through the winter in there as is, or do I need to provide a heat source? How low can the temperature get, before it hurts them?
If I need to heat the greenhouse, what would you suggest as heat source that is not too expensive?

It depends on how cold it

It depends on how cold it gets in the winter. You may be OK with a couple of seedling heat mats under the pots or you can get a couple of heating lamps and turn them on before a cold front approaches. A small space heater with a fan will also work.

For 2 years I have planted

For 2 years I have planted green peppers in the spring with my other plants and I don't harvest any peppers until mid-September.The plants are healthy and leafy but flowers don't appear until august , what can i change to harvest them in the summer.

Peppers like warm soil, above

Peppers like warm soil, above 65F. Cold soil may slow the flowering process. You might try choosing an early-maturing variety, and placing black plastic over the soil a week or two before planting (see above for recommended planting times) and leaving it there after sowing seeds or transplanting. The black plastic will help to keep the soil warm. In colder climates, start the seeds indoors. Hope this helps!

Use miracle grow potting soil

Use miracle grow potting soil if u havnt already. It will make your flowers blume earlier and faster. While at the same time u will have a healthier plant that will produce flowers sumtimes within a week or two uwill have small peppers come out wen the accuall flower falls off. Just like the regular process but a lil faster. Ive harvested a numbrr of really greally great peppers starting in august an im still pulling off more and more

Yes mirical grow is very

Yes mirical grow is very helpful with gardens last year we used it and our garden was a great success

I've been planting green and

I've been planting green and red peppers. I am wondering how late they can stay outside and cover up at night. I live in Maine. Just need some guideline. I have a tons of green peppers, but need to grow a little bit more and new buds coming.

Peppers love warm soil and

Peppers love warm soil and sun. They are not going to be growing much more when the temps. drop. If you cover the plants at night you can keep them in the garden for another few weeks. If you have room you can dig a few plants to bring indoors. Plant them in containers and place them in a sunny window.

I have tried to find info on

I have tried to find info on peppers in colorado that are almost ready for harvest- but no quite. We have an early frost/freeze(32) and snow headed in. Do I need to harvest or can I leave them on the plant. Most websites talk about early spring damage.
I also have cucumbers, corn, squash, and all the usual backyard vegetables.

Try to cover your peppers

Try to cover your peppers with old sheets or towels. You may also want to cover the cucumbers and squash plants.

I've asked partially about

I've asked partially about this before. I have one sweet pepper plant where the peppers started out green, then turned black...now they're turning green again. I've left them on the plant hoping they would turn yellow, orange or red. Is this normal for them to go black and then back to green?

Yes, the black stage is

Yes, the black stage is normal, Karen (assuming the plant is healthy). The red color should follow—or you can eat them black.

Are there any sweet pepper

Are there any sweet pepper varieties that might do better with climate change? I have grown Califirnia Goldens and a red easily up until the last two seasons in Piedmont NC where the temperatures are no longer favorable.

My dog got into the garden

My dog got into the garden and the stem broke. It did not break all the way but it is severely cracked near the base of the plant. The plant already had a lot of vegetables and flowers growing on it. I added a pot to the side to help it stand and covered the crack with dirt. Is there a chance that the plant will survive or is it pretty much done for.

Only time will tell. If the

Only time will tell. If the injury left some of the vascular system intact, so that the plant juices and nutrients can still flow between the roots, stem, leaves, and fruit, then there might be a chance it will muddle through to the end of the season. But, the plant is now more susceptible to disease and insects, and may possibly go into shock. Providing support is good--do anything else that you can to coddle the plant so that it is under the least stress possible. Good luck!

I put all my veggies in tires

I put all my veggies in tires and they are doing great. Pepper plants are staring to lean do I need to build cages around them?

Your peppers will greatly

Your peppers will greatly appreciate some extra support.

I have four or five organic

I have four or five organic red, yellow and orange sweet pepper plants. On only one plant, all the small peppers have black around the part of the plant closest to the place where the pepper began...and as they grow, they are turning black. Is this a disease and, if so, do I need to pull it up so my other pepper plants won't get it?

Do you mean the stem end or

Do you mean the stem end or the bottom of the pepper? Black areas starting at the bottom of the pepper might be due to blossom end rot. This is caused by a calcium deficiency which can show up in dry weather or uneven watering. It might also happen if there is root damage, a lot of salts in the soil, or lots of nitrogen. In this case, you don't need to worry about other plants getting the disease, since it is a cultural problem. Mulch to maintain moisture, and water consistently. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer.

If the black area is at the stem end, it might be bacterial soft rot. This is caused by bacteria that causes watersoaked areas on the fruit, which rots. Leaves will wilt. Discard any affected fruit, and give your plants plenty of spacing so that they have good air circulation; keep up with pests; and mulch to keep the bacteria in the soil from splashing onto plants.

Or, perhaps the variety was mislabelled and it is actually a black sweet pepper? In which case it is just part of the ripening process.

It's right around the stem

It's right around the stem area of each pepper on this plant. It's brownish black, looks like some kind of accumulation of material and as soon as the peppers start growing about 3/4 of an inch, they start having these dark stripes in them. I pulled one off and cut it open but didn't see anything inside except seeds.

Hmm. Stripes can sometimes

Hmm. Stripes can sometimes mean a virus (unless it is a natural feature of the fruit), especially if there are other signs, such as curling, mottled, or yellowing leaves; or misshapen fruit.

We'd suggest that you take a sample of the fruit and any other affected plant part to your local Cooperative Extension agent, or to a horticulturist at a local garden nursery. They might be able to identify the problem. For your Cooperative Extension contact information, see:

http://www.almanac.com/content...

Hi, we're in Montreal, first

Hi, we're in Montreal, first time gardeners, and we planted three kinds of tomatoes, cucumbers, Anaheim peppers, Cubanelle peppers, leek, and red bell pepper; all were purchased as young plants and transplanted into the same garden on the same day (late May). Everything has worked great, notably due to advice on this site, with the exception of the leek plant (which appears to have just suddenly withered and died) and all five red bell pepper plants, which appear to be thriving but have yet to bear a single fruit, now early August. I understand from the comments here that the culprit here is usually non-optimal temperature, but I find it strange that all the other plants are producing extremely plentiful fruit. Any theories? Thank you!

Hot peppers can tolerate heat

Hot peppers can tolerate heat better than bells. Perhaps at the time of flowering, it was too hot for sufficient pollination for the bells, but the hot peppers came through? (That wouldn't explain the Cubanelles, though.) Too much nitrogen can also cause lack of flowering/fruiting, but the other plants seem to be OK. Are all plants getting the same amount of soil nutrients, sunlight, water, etc? If not, perhaps the area where the bells are is different enough to cause a problem.

This is the 2nd year I have

This is the 2nd year I have purchased red bell pepper plants from the nursery, planted them in my garden, and they grow several green peppers that never turn red. The green peppers have been on the plant at least a month and never turn. What am I doing wrong?

Hi, Elizabeth: Well, it's not

Hi, Elizabeth: Well, it's not really a "wrong," but what you're not doing enough of is being patient. They will turn color eventually. Sometimes, once you start to see a little color, you can speed up the final ripening by putting them in a paper bag with a ripe tomato. The ethylene gas it emits will help things along.

We have small bell peppers

We have small bell peppers coming on, but they are clumped together. Should we prune some of them off to allow more room for larger peppers to grow.

On one pepper plant, you may

On one pepper plant, you may get 1 or 2 peppers to form or you may 6 to 8. It depends on the pepper variety and your garden/weather conditions. If you pick the pepper before it's fully mature, you will spark your plant into producing more peppers because the plant wants its "babies" to succeed, though many gardeners say the pepper tastes better if it's fully mature. One idea is to harvest early on some plants and let others mature. Try this experiment and see what works for you!

I live in Denver CO. My

I live in Denver CO. My pepper plants look great but as they get bigger they thin and brown in spots. Any suggestions?