Growing Peas

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Pea Plants

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Peas are one of the first crops we plant in the spring. The taste of garden-grown peas is nothing like what you find in grocery stores; they are nature’s candy off the vine. Plant seeds as soon as the ground can be worked—even if snow falls after you plant them! Here’s our complete guide to planting, growing, and harvesting peas.

This early spring vegetable is so easy to grow. There are three kinds of peas commonly seen in home gardens:

English peas, aka shelling peas (Pisum sativum ssp. sativum), produce inedible pods from which large, edible peas are harvested.
Snow peas (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon) produce edible flat pods with small peas inside.
Snap peas (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon ser. cv.) produce tender, edible pods with full-size peas.

As with other legumes, peas will fix nitrogen in the soil, making it more available for other plants. In return, they require little extra fertility to grow and produce pods. This makes them a great companion plant, too.

Pea plants do have limited growing season, however. Furthermore, peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy them while you can!

The key to growing peas is to plant them early enough in spring so they mature while the weather is still cool. This means planting in February, March, or April in most parts of the United States and Canada. They can even be grown as a fall or winter crop in warm areas of the U.S.

Planting

When to Plant Peas

Generally speaking, plant peas as soon as the ground thaws and can be worked in the spring—even if more snow is in the forecast.
For a more measured approach, plan to sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost date, when soil temperatures reach at least 45°F (7°C). Here are some more tips on when to start planting peas.
- Traditionally, St. Patrick’s Day (March 17) signaled that it was time to plant peas.
Don’t plant if your soil is soaked from snowmelt or spring rains. It’s a delicate balance of proper timing and weather conditions. If your garden tends to stay too wet, consider investing in raised garden beds.
A blanket of snow won’t hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens could. Be prepared to plant again if the first peas don’t make it. Alternatively, try starting your peas in a cold frame.
A second round of peas can be planted in the late summer or early fall, approximately 6 to 8 weeks before your first fall frost date. Fall plantings are typically not as productive as spring-grown peas, but they make for a nice fall snack nonetheless!

Pea pods on plant

Preparing the Planting Site

Select a sunny location. While peas can grow in part shade, they won’t be as sweet or productive as those grown in full sun.
Soil must drain well. One of the few downfalls of growing peas is seed rot. Don’t plant in wet areas where the cool soil is conducive to the pea seeds rotting before they germinate. If necessary, raise the beds 6 to 8 inches high to provide a well-drained planting site.
To give your plants the best head start, turn over your pea planting beds and add 2 to 3 inches of compost or manure to the soil in the fall prior to planting the following spring.
Add wood ashes and bonemeal to the soil before planting. Peas need phosphorus and potassium, but excess nitrogen will encourage foliage growth instead of flowers or pods.
- Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
For tall and vining pea varieties, set up poles or a trellis at the time of planting. The young tendrils need to have something to climb on immediately after emerging from the soil. Learn how to build supports here.

How to Plant Peas

For improved germination, soak peas overnight in water before planting.
Plant seeds 1 inch deep (slightly deeper if soil tends to dry out quickly) and about 2 inches apart. Plant in rows spaced 12–24 inches apart.
Poke in any seeds that get washed out of the soil. (A chopstick is an ideal tool for this.)

Check out this video to learn how to plant peas early while soil is cold:

Care

How to Grow Peas

Once germinated, peas will climb a fence or trellis to anywhere between 2 and 8 feet tall, depending on the variety. Prepare supports ahead of time, taking into consideration the mature height of the pea variety (which should be listed on the seed packet).
Water sparsely unless the plants are wilting. If the weather is dry, water them periodically. Do not let plants dry out, or no pods will be produced.
Keep the pea bed well weeded, but be careful using weeding tools such as hoes because peas are shallow rooted. To avoid disturbing fragile roots, gently remove intrusive weeds by hand.
It’s best to rotate pea crops every year or two to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases. In between pea plantings, plant other vegetables to take advantage of the nitrogen-rich soil that peas leave behind (they are a nitrogen-fixing legume).
Peas are best grown in temperatures below 70°F (21°C). Once temperatures get above 80°F (27°C), peas tend to stop producing pods or the pods become tougher.

Pests/Diseases

Pest/Disease	Type	Symptoms	Control/Prevention
Aphids	Insect	Misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement produced by aphids); sooty, black mold that forms on honeydew; large presence of ants on plants	Grow companion plants to either attract aphids away (nasturtiums) or repel them outright (basil, rosemary, strong-scented plants); knock aphids off plants with water spray, apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peel around plants; wipe leaves with a 1-2% solution of liquid dish soap and water every 2-3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to attract aphid predators. Find images and more information about aphids here.
Fusarium Wilt	Fungus	Plants wilt (sometimes on just one side) in daytime; leaves turn yellow (lower ones first); later, entire plant wilts/dies; growth is stunted; stem cross section reveals brown discoloration	Destroy infected plants; avoid excessive nitrogen in soil; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; choose resistant varieties; disinfect tools between use; practice crop rotation
Downy Mildew	Fungus	Yellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation	Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Mexican Bean Beetles	Insect	Lacey, skeletonized leaves; dark holes on pods	Remove by hand; purchase and release beneficial wasp Pediobius foveolatus when beetle larvae are observed; destroy severely infested plants. Find images and more infomation about Mexican bean beetles here.
Powdery Mildew	Fungus	Typically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowers	Destroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 tsp baking soda dissolved in 1 qt water; remove infected plant matter from garden and destroy (don’t compost). Find images and more information about powdery mildew here.
Root-knot Nematodes	Insect	Roots become “knotted” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wilted	Destroy affected plant matter (especially roots); choose resistant varieties; expose soil to sun (solarize); add aged manure/compost; disinfect gardening tools between uses; till soil in autumn; practice crop rotation
Wireworms	Insect	Pest affects newly planted seeds and young plants. Seeds hollowed; seedlings severed; stunting/wilting; roots eaten	Sow seeds in warm soil for quick germination; provide good drainage; remove plant debris at end of season; practice crop rotation. If infestation is bad enough, trap by digging 2- to 4-inch-deep holes every 3 to 10 feet, fill with mix of germinating beans/corn/peas or potato sections as bait, cover with soil or a board, in 1 week uncover and kill collected wireworms.

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Peas

Most varieties of peas are ready to harvest 60 to 70 days after planting.
Peas mature quickly, so check daily once you see the flowers in bloom. Keep your peas well picked to encourage more pods to develop.
Pick peas in the morning after the dew has dried. They are crispiest then.
Always use two hands when you pick peas. Secure the vine with one hand and pull the peas off with your other hand to avoid damaging the plant.
Pea pods that have hardened or turned a dull color are over mature.
If you missed your peas’ peak period, you can still pick, dry, and shell them for use in winter soups.

Shelled peas

How to Store Peas

Peas can be kept in the refrigerator for about 5 days or be frozen for longer. Place in paper bags, then wrap in plastic.

Recommended Varieties

English Peas: Also known as garden or shelling peas, these are the most common type of peas available. Some good varieties to try include:

The classic ‘Wando’ (good for freezing)
‘Thomas Laxton’ (high sugar content)
‘Progress No. 9’ (good disease resistance)
‘Little Marvel’ (grows only 15 inches tall)
‘Lincoln’: 2- to 3-foot vines; no support required; tolerant of mildew and Fusarium wilt
‘Green Arrow’: 2- to 3-foot vines; no support required; high yields; tolerant of mildew and Fusarium wilt

Snap Peas: You eat the entire tender pod of snap peas. Some good varieties to try are:

The original (Calvin’s) ‘Sugar Snap’: Just brought back in 2020! Superior taste and quality. Carried only by Johnny’s Selected Seeds.
An early-maturing version called ‘Early Snap’ (produces peas 10 to 14 days earlier than ‘Sugar Snap’)
‘Sugar Ann’ (grows only 2 feet tall, no support required)
‘Super Sugar Mel’ (produces 4-inch-long, very sweet pods)

Snow Peas: Common in Chinese cooking, these flat-podded peas have edible pods. Some good varieties to try include:

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’: grows only 2-½ feet tall
‘Mammoth Melting Sugar’ (wilt tolerant): 4- to 5-foot vines; stringless pods
‘Snowbird’: resistant to fusarium wilt

Wit & Wisdom

If a girl finds nine peas in a pod, the next bachelor she meets will become her husband.
St. Patrick’s Day is a traditional day for growing peas. Find out how to grow peas when there’s still snow on the ground with this humorous video.
Legend has it that the phrase “green thumb” orginated during the reign of King Edward I of England, who was fond of green peas and kept six serfs shelling them during the season. The serf who had the greenest thumb won a prize!

Recipes

Reader Comments

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Sugar Ann

I’m planning to plant Sugar Ann this season for the first time. Can anyone offer any additional info about them?

Saint Patrick's Day

Here in South Australia Saint Patrick's Day is also a good time to plant peas even though our seasons are the reverse of the northern hemisphere. March 17 is early Autumn for us, so hopefully peas planted then will not be flowering during the periods of heavy frost. We grow peas as a winter crop here as even in spring the preferred temperature for peas can be exceeded, Saint Patrick's Day would be about the earliest you'd want plant peas here, but it's the time to get organised! For me it's usually tomatoes out, Sugarsnap peas in.

Planting peas

Trying to plant peas 2" apart is just plain foolish. The late Jim Crocket said words to the effect it doesn't matter one bit of the peas' shoulders touch each other. Not all peas are going to germinate anyway. This is from my experience of growing peas of all types (but primarily snap peas lately) for 38 seasons. I put down five pounds of seed in a 65 foot row that's about a foot wide...and they touch and love it! I cover them with State of Maine lobster compost. I have tremendous harvests from plants that grow almost to seven feet. They grow between two rows of soft nylon mesh trellis and pipe supports. When they're done, down they come. I drag them out as if the trellis mesh was a fisherman's net. Where they were becomes the main walkway for the middle of the garden. Try 2" apart with five pounds of seed. Good luck!

how far to space peas

You have certainly got a system that works. As it happens, the matter of space between peas when sowing can vary, depending on whom you ask. We suggest “about” 2 inches. Cornell University (an .edu that we consult often) suggests 1 to 4 inches apart. Other edu’s fall more in the 1 to 2 inch range. In local gardens, we’ve seen (and done) it with 2 inches and less. Sometimes when too close, we’ve seen some sprouts fail to thrive. Of course, lots more is at play here, including soil (we’ve heard the lobstah compost is terrific), sun, and water, among the considerations. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Growing Peas

Jim Crockett was a little before my time, but my Dad watched him and he gave me Jim's book a few years ago. I love that part of the book because he does essentially say he's been planting peas like that since he was a little boy. I follow his rule, the more seeds the merrier. I dig my 4" wide trench and just scatter them in there. I always have a great crop and it's a lot easier on the back and the rest of the body. He also mentions using sticks for pea brush.
Love Jim Crockett. I wish I could find copies of his old show somewhere.

watering

how many times a week should i water my plant?

Watering

That depends on a lot of factors, including the age of your plant (Are they seedlings or fully grown?), the weather (Has it been rainy or dry recently? Sunny or cloudy?), and your garden (Does the soil drain well or does it hold onto water?). Read our article on watering your vegetable garden for more information!

Pea watering

Peas require one inch of water per week which they generally receive with spring rains. If your area is dry, this regimen will be the easiest and best guide to follow. One can over water, but about an inch per week once pods set and flowers start to appear is reliable.

your Guidance for growing vegetables in Pune, India

I came across you recently and find it very useful and enjoyable. however I am located in Pune, india. Our weather Cycle is completely different from yours so is it possible for you to
give suggestions related to our weather? will appreciate your reply.
mrs. Rajul Kambuj.

Snow pea regrowth

I planted several snow pea seeds in the spring and each produced several pods. Shortly before the original vines turned yellow, they started producing new vines off of the original. Is this normal and should I cut off other dead vines and leaves that are not producing new vines?

snap peas

I just harvested peas from my terrace,beautiful. When I cooked them,ALL were very tough& stringy& inedible. The peas inside were good but the entire pod was to be eaten. What did I do wrong?

snap pea harvest

It might be that you harvested them too late. For snap peas, you don’t want the peas inside to develop quite so large as garden (English) peas, or the pods sometimes get tough. Some gardeners like to harvest them when the peas are about ½ mature size.

Peas, please!

My daughter begged me to buy some pea seeds at the dollar tree and add them to our garden this year since we expanded and added a larger raised bed after the very successful season we had last year for first time gardening, so I obliged and did a planting along with my bush beans. I have to admit that I didn't look into how they grow, but I staked them based on an experience with one snap pea plant I bought to test last year, and I'm so glad I did! Now they're growing so strong that I had to attach more stakes together and rig an arch/DIY trellis on the fly for them! I have my first pod growing so hopefully that will continue our success! 9+ plants for a 25 cent pack of seeds is probably the best bargain I've found all year! Possibly this decade!

Yellowing leaves on pea plants

Help! I just moved my seedlings into the ground about two weeks ago and have noticed the plant and leaves are turning yellow! We have had a pretty hot streak this week, so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. Any suggestions? I'm in Coarsegold, California.

yellow leaves

Pea leaves can turn yellow for several reasons. Most likely, however, it is the stress of establishing themselves in hot weather (they like cool). You might provide a little partial shade, such as shade cloth, during the hottest time of day to help them recover, and make sure they have a proper amount of water. Also check for any pests, such as aphids, that might be attacking.

Peas finished or not producing?

I'm in the Dallas area and planted peas the last week of March. Full growth, some pods, then the army of aphids. I resorted to the insecticide method for control and won. Very few flowers and pods now. Is my season over or did the aphids steal my crop?

Peas & beans not germinating

I've been gardening for many years.
The past couple of years I am suddenly having an issue where my legumes, peas & beans, are not germinating. I am growing in a large raised bed. I always use nitrogen innoculant with legumes. I've planted several varieties of each, fresh seed. I think sometimes they may be rotting in the soil as no sprouting & if I dig them up often the seed is gone. Watering normally etc.
Very odd, I'm totally puzzled add too what is going on and how to resolve it.
Any suggestions?

seed troubles

Could an animal, such as a mouse or vole, be eating the sown seeds? Sometimes they are known to eat pea seeds and others in the garden. To control, here are some suggestions:
http://www.almanac.com/pest/mice
http://www.almanac.com/pest/voles
Birds and squirrels may also be a problem.
Make sure that the seeds are planted at the correct depth and optimum conditions are provided. Also check to make sure that the soil is not too cold; if planted too early, beans, for example, will not germinate well. They like soil temperature at least 60F, and on up to about 85F. Peas like it around 75F, but can germinate at between 40 and 85F; at less optimum temperatures, they’ll germinate more slowly.
Hope this helps!

No sign of pests

The soil is totally undisturbed, no signs of digging, holes in the ground, nothing. I only plant peas & spinach in cool spring weather. The beans have to wait till it's warmer. Planted peas 2.5c weeks ago, 2 different kinds, followed depth instructions. Spinach germinated just fine. Not a single pea plant or sprout. Just bizarre

peas being cut off

my peas were being cut off and we found that a rabbit was eating them.

rabbits in the peas

Our best recommendation is chicken wire fencing. It may be too late for the peas, but it’s not too late to secure your later crops (greens? lettuce?). Dogs, cats, red/black pepper, garlic powder, even human hair are suggested many times, but the fence may be the most effective.

Snow peas

My snow peas are being cut off after emerging. They are less than an inch tall. What could be doing that and what can I do to prevent it? Thank you!

rabbit defense

Luscious vines, no peas

I have a beautiful 5' fence in the middle of my garden, which is thick and full of pea vines, but very few peas. They have always produced well in winter (in Arizona), organic, heavily composted soil. Last year I added about 300 lbs. of coffee grounds to the soil and did not solarize during the summer, as usual. Would either of these affect the production of peas? It looks like every seed germinated and flourished.

peas, please

Peas do not need—or usually want—”good” soil, which is to say the kind of soil that so many other plants love—composted soil. Peas perform best with little attention. The coffee grounds, especially such a quantity may have upset the balance of your soil, adding nitrogen which encourages leaf/foliage growth. Sounds like a little too much of a good thing. In future, compost the coffee grounds and use the results on other plants.

Oregon Sugar Pod II

I am currently germinating my peas (don't ask why, it's science-related) and I very stupidly put them in a water temperature of 102 degrees Fahrenheit. Do you think I should restart or is there a chance that the peas could sprout?

Peas in hot water

Hmm. 102F is lukewarm water. I’m not sure if the seeds will be happy, but if they were not in the warm water for long, some may still sprout. However, I think you might get reduced germination rates. Peas do not germinate well above 85F soil temperature. Being exposed to overly warm temperatures may also cause other physiological changes. For the sake of a science experiment, it might be better to start over. You could still test these as well, too, to compare (might be an interesting experiment in itself). Good luck!

how big

i have a small pea plant growing in a small pot and i am wondering if they get really big so i know to transplant it soon.

Transplanting Peas

Although peas don’t like their roots disturbed, and therefore usually are planted directly in the garden, gardeners have had success growing them indoors and then transplanting out when weather is more cooperative. To do this, there are several methods, one of the most common being starting the seeds in peat pots which can then be transplanted, pot and all, into the garden; the pot will disintegrate over time, which lessens the disturbance to plant roots. Another method is described here:
http://www.almanac.com/video/get-growing-early-peas

How big a pot you’ll need and when you’ll need to transplant will depend on the variety of pea, the size of the current pot, and whether you plan to grow your peas outside or if they will be completely container-grown. In general, bush peas can grow about 18 or so inches high. There are also those that grow up to about 24 or 30 inches. Pole types can grow 4 to 6 feet, or more, and will need support. You can transplant peas into the garden any time after they are 4 inches tall; or about 4 to 6 weeks after starting seeds. Place in the garden no earlier than 4 weeks before the last expected spring frost.

OLD PEAS

Do older peas or beans germinate better in warmer soils?, soaked ? inoculated?
Have had some luck with warmer soils on non soaked or inoculated beans and peas.

Growing Peas

Botanical Name	Pisum sativum
Plant Type	Vegetable
Sun Exposure	Full Sun, Part Sun
Soil Type	Loamy
Soil pH	Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time	Spring, Fall
Flower Color	Varies
Hardiness Zones	2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Pea Plants

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Planting

When to Plant Peas

Preparing the Planting Site

How to Plant Peas

Care

How to Grow Peas

Pests/Diseases

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Peas

How to Store Peas

Recommended Varieties

Wit & Wisdom

Recipes

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Growing Peas

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