Pea leaves can turn yellow for several reasons. Most likely, however, it is the stress of establishing themselves in hot weather (they like cool). You might provide a little partial shade, such as shade cloth, during the hottest time of day to help them recover, and make sure they have a proper amount of water. Also check for any pests, such as aphids, that might be attacking.

Our best recommendation is chicken wire fencing. It may be too late for the peas, but it’s not too late to secure your later crops (greens? lettuce?). Dogs, cats, red/black pepper, garlic powder, even human hair are suggested many times, but the fence may be the most effective.

Peas do not need—or usually want—”good” soil, which is to say the kind of soil that so many other plants love—composted soil. Peas perform best with little attention. The coffee grounds, especially such a quantity may have upset the balance of your soil, adding nitrogen which encourages leaf/foliage growth. Sounds like a little too much of a good thing. In future, compost the coffee grounds and use the results on other plants.

Hmm. 102F is lukewarm water. I’m not sure if the seeds will be happy, but if they were not in the warm water for long, some may still sprout. However, I think you might get reduced germination rates. Peas do not germinate well above 85F soil temperature. Being exposed to overly warm temperatures may also cause other physiological changes. For the sake of a science experiment, it might be better to start over. You could still test these as well, too, to compare (might be an interesting experiment in itself). Good luck!

Although peas don’t like their roots disturbed, and therefore usually are planted directly in the garden, gardeners have had success growing them indoors and then transplanting out when weather is more cooperative. To do this, there are several methods, one of the most common being starting the seeds in peat pots which can then be transplanted, pot and all, into the garden; the pot will disintegrate over time, which lessens the disturbance to plant roots. Another method is described here:
http://www.almanac.com/video/get-growing-early-peas

How big a pot you’ll need and when you’ll need to transplant will depend on the variety of pea, the size of the current pot, and whether you plan to grow your peas outside or if they will be completely container-grown. In general, bush peas can grow about 18 or so inches high. There are also those that grow up to about 24 or 30 inches. Pole types can grow 4 to 6 feet, or more, and will need support. You can transplant peas into the garden any time after they are 4 inches tall; or about 4 to 6 weeks after starting seeds. Place in the garden no earlier than 4 weeks before the last expected spring frost.

I’m not sure if an inoculant would help the seed to sprout; it’s my guess that it is more to help the plant once it forms roots (which is where the nitrogen-fixing bacteria make their home). However, soaking and warmth often can encourage older seeds that are still viable to sprout. You might try soaking the seeds overnight in warm (not hot) water, and then planting in warm soil. Beans especially like soil temps around 80 to 85F. Peas like soil temps around 75F. Good luck!

“The Old Farmer’s Almanac” is the author. This article is constantly updated so you could use the current year as the retrieval date. This is a Web site so you wouldn’t follow the traditional reference style.  Use the article title in double quotes, and then add the URL (link) of this page. 

The best time to plant depends on your location. Go to our planting calendar (click here) and enter your location to find the best months for you for snap peas and green beans.

Peas like cool temperatures. When sown in the heat of summer, the plants will take longer to mature, and sometimes you won’t get as good a yield. Yet, some gardeners have had success. Check the days to maturity for the variety that you’d like to grow, and add about 1 to 2 weeks to that amount of days; count that amount backward from your first expected fall frost. Choose varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew, as that can be more of a problem with later crops. Keep the plants out of direct blazing summer sun, by providing shade cloth or similar. Add compost and mulch to retain moisture. Good luck!

If the varieties that you have planted are similar (same color, height, habit), then try bending a pod on each: snap pea pods are crisp and snap when bent, while snow pea pods are more flexible and not easily snapped. The snow pea pod may also be a bit more translucent.

Hi Ruth, In your area, peas are not common but they can be planted in mid-January through mid-February. Hope this helps.

Is it the same variety as last year? Check the seed package for days to maturity. That said, weather can cause delay in blooms. If the plants are healthy you just need to be patient. When the time is right blooms develop very quickly and you may have blooms and pods in just a couple of days.

No, it is not too late. Good luck!

You should be fine. Peas planted in March are ready to harvest in May.They grow most of this time and don't flower. Once they flower, it only takes about 10 days to harvest.

It's best to let the chicken manure age over the season and over winter, leaving the area to lie fallow, then use that area for planting next year. Fresh chicken manure might burn plants or carry disease. Some chicken manure in your recently vacated chicken plot might be appropriately aged, but more recent samples would not be.
 
The Cooperative Extension has these recommendations to reduce risk of disease: "If you must use raw manure in the garden, apply it according to the 90/120 day rule. If the manure touches the edible plant part, like watermelons, apply it at least 120 days before harvest. If edible parts are high above the soil, like corn, apply it at least 90 days before harvest."
 
As to peas, they do not need very much nitrogen. If they grow in high-nitrogen soil, they may produce more leaves and less pods, and may be more susceptible to frost. Heavy nitrogen feeders include cucumbers, melons, squash, corn, cole crops, greens, and onions.

Mid-April will not be too late. And as an added bonus, if you are gardening by the Moon signs, mid-April is the perfect time to plant peas.

Lucky you, Micky! Pea season will be late here in New Hampshire.
You probably did sow them too close together. And, yes, you might damage the sprouts if you pull them out (pea roots a relatively shallow).
So instead of pulling the roots, cut the seedlings' stem at ground level with scissors. Any little bit of growth, if any, that ensues is not likely to survive.
Good luck with the harvest!

Hi Linda,
We envy you. Here in NH we still have 3 feet of snow on the ground. Just keep the soil moist. Do not overwater.

Hi, Clara: As you surmise, this could be any number of things, from worms to mice/rats/squirrels to deer. Assuming that you have looked for tracks from the bigger critters and found none, you might also consider other suspects: birds, such as sparrows and finches. If it's possible in your garden, identify some still good plants where you can carefully smooth the soil. Sprinkle a dusting of powder or flour and just see if any tracks show up, just to check. At the same time, set yourself up a little scarecrow and be prepared to use some hardware mesh or perhaps bird netting, as the case may be. If necessary, you need to bury your mesh or old screening at least 6 inches deep, but hopefully some anti-air-craftiness will prove simpler, cheaper, and just as effective.

We love peas off the vine! They are so sweet we can barely get them in the house. Perhaps garden peas are the most different than supermarket peas?
First, you may have noticed that peas taste wonderfully sweet off the vine but turn to starch very quickly. You want to eat peas quite quickly. Once peas are shelled they rapidly lose their sweet flavor, and it's best to shell then pop them directly into the pan! Another option is to freeze them right away.
You would not plant this sprouted pea right in the ground. However, you can harvest peas for replanting. The trick is to grow them on the vine for a few weeks longer than you would if you were going to eat the peas. Let them dry out. When the pods are brown, remove the seeds and place in a dry, cool place until completely dry and no moistness is left. Put in a bag and save to replant in the spring!

Peas are cool-season crops. You can try planting in the fall and they'll grow when temperatures are between 60 F to 75 F. It's just that spring crops usually have a greater yield; sometimes the fall temps get surprising warm!

Hi, William: Overnight is fine, but a few days is really not necessary at this time of year ... get 'em in the ground, and they'll grow great!

The days for green peas to grow depends on the variety and the 'days to maturity' will listed on your seed packets or any online seller. However, soil temperature will also greatly influence your timing. If the is 40 degrees F., pea seeds may take more than a month to sprout, while at 60 degrees F. or above, they take about a week. 

Peas will tolerate chilly nights but the beans need a bit warmer weather. If you have no more frosts or cold nights transplant the peas and the beans can follow in a week or two.

They may produce a few more peas. Pod set always proceeds from the bottom of the plant to the top. When only pods at the stems tips remain there will be no more peas. It's always a good idea to plant a row of peas every two weeks in the spring to have a longer harvest.

By now you probably know if the vine grew more new shoots. It depends on where the vine snaps if it is going to survive.

The days of maturity for a pea plant depend on the variety chosen but it will range from 55 to 70 days from seeding to harvest.

You need to identify the pest.  Go out very late at night or very early in the morning with a flash light and look for slugs, a common culprit. if you see slugs, you can put slug pellets and crush eggshells around the base of the plant. If it's not slugs, look carefully at the plant. Are the leaves being eaten? Large holes or small holes?  Describe the damage as different pests chew plants in different ways.

Yes, Pick your peas often (every other day) and they'll produce more!

The usual reasons for pods and seeds appearing shriveled are Stink Bugs and Pea Leafminers – These insects,like the aphids, suck the juices out of the developing pods. However, you should properly identify before treating; some stink bug species and their
close relatives are beneficial insects; call the Texas AgriLife Extension Service at 854-9600 for more information.

If you already picked the peas you need to store or preserve them. Fresh peas don't keep long at room temperature. Here are your option. Find a friend who has room in her/his freezer. Borrow a dehydrator and dry the peas or can the peas. Good luck!

Snow peas are annuals, so they will not grow back again next year; you'll need to sow more seeds next year for a new crop.

When you are through with this year's harvest, you can cut the pea plants back down to the ground and then compost the tops. Because the peas are legumes, they have nitrogen-fixing bacteria within their roots. Once a plant dies and decays, the nitrogen in the roots will return to the soil, allowing it to become available to other plants.