Types
There are both “spring” and “winter” radishes. Note: The small, round varieties do not tolerate heat as well as the longer types, so plant the small types first in early spring. In general, we find that smaller radishes are milder in flavor and the larger varieties are spicier.
- ‘Burpee White’: spring variety; small type; heirloom radish with white crisp flesh; mild flavor
- ‘Champion’: spring variety; small type; bright scarlet with firm, crisp white flesh; mild flavor
- ‘Cherry Belle’: small type; round, red with white flesh; heirloom radish; crisp, light flavor
- ‘Daikon’: winter radish; grows to 14 inches long; best grown in cooler climates or during the cooler ends of the growing season; crisp and snappy taste
- ‘French Breakfast’: spring, late-maturing type can tolerate moderate heat; heirloom radish with 3-inch red roots, oblong shape, mild flavor
- ‘German Giant’: spring variety, red baseball-size; never gets too hot; sweet and mild
- ‘Spanish Black’: winter radish; large 3- to 4-inch turnip-shaped globes have crisp, pungent, spicy, pure-white flesh; great for storage
- ‘Watermelon’: winter radish; an heirloom Daikon radish variety with striking white skin and bright red insides; mild flavor with a light peppery tang.
- ‘White Icicle’: late spring, cylindrical white roots up to 5 inches long; can tolerate moderate heat; heirloom; mild-flavored with hints of peppery taste
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Comments
A couple of things could be at play here: Raised bed soil tends to heat up sooner than ground soil. Radishes are a cool season—and soil—crop, and you may have gotten them in after the soil warmed. Soil is often the culprit when vegetables/edibles fail to thrive. Radishes prefer sandy loam with a pH ot 6.6–7.0; below 6.5 lime should be added. Too-low pH (for turnips) can also result in clubroot, a fungus that causes cruciferous crops (of which turnip is one) to fail to form. Warm soil, high soil moisture, and acidity (low pH) favor the presence of the fungus. Spores can live in the soil for up to 20 years—but can also become inactive/nonviable after a 2-year respite from the host crop. This points to the importance of rotating crops, or, at least not planting the same thing in the same place year after year.
We hope this helps!
You're on the right track. Nine times out of ten (an unofficial statistic ;-)) the failure of plants to thrive is due to unsuitable soil conditions. In this case, fertilizer is not rhe solution. The soil pH is likely too low. Radishes like neutral pH, betw 6 and 7. See more about this and how to correct it: https://www.almanac.com/content/soil-ph-levels
And the soil may be too wet, possibly too cold.
All of these circumstances lead to plant/seed failure via a fungal disease.
Before you plant anything else, you should have a soil test (why experience more failure?). See here: https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/soil-testing-better-garden
It's possible that, this early in the season, you could correct the soil and try again. Or at least have a plan B (containers, for example).
We hope this helps!
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Hi, Burppee, Your question is answered above. "Though the soil needs to be rich in organic matter, it can not be compacted. If your soil is more clay-like, mix in some sand to loosen it and improve drainage. And till your garden bed to remove any rocks before planting. If your soil isn't rich in organic matter, incorporate a few inches of aged compost or all-purpose fertilizer (see packaging for amount) into the planting site as soon as the soil is workable."