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Growing Arugula: How to Plant and Grow Arugula | The Old Farmer's Almanac

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Arugula

Photo Credit
vaivirga/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Eruca sativa
Plant Type
Vegetable
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time
Spring
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
White
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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Arugula

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Also known as “rocket” or “roquette,” arugula is a fast-growing, cool-season leafy green that adds a tangy, mustard-like flavor to salads. Here’s how to plant and grow arugula in your garden!

About Arugula

Arugula stems from the warmer parts of Europe—namely Italy and along the Mediterranean, through Turkey and into western Asia. A member of the mustard family (Brassicaceae), it’s a relative of other common garden plants such as cabbage, broccoli, and kale. 

Arugula is often found in mesclun seed mixes, as it grows quickly and has a bolder flavor than most greens. Plant in early spring or early fall and you will be able to harvest young leaves 6 to 8 weeks after sowing. The seeds will germinate quickly in cool soil and seedlings are capable of tolerating a light frost, but consider protecting plants with cloches or row covers nonetheless! 

Planting

Arugula does best in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil, but will tolerate a wide variety of conditions, making it a great choice for containers, raised beds, or traditional garden beds. It prefers slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6 and 7.

Plant in a spot that gets full sun (6 or more hours of sunlight) for the best results. Arugula will grow in partial sun, but not as well.

Avoid planting arugula in areas where its relatives (other Brassicas) have recently been planted, as pests and disease may persist. 

When to Plant Arugula

  • Arugula seeds will germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C), so sow them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. See local frost dates.
  • Sow in late summer or early fall for a fall or winter harvest.

How to Plant Arugula

  • Sow seeds ÂŒ-inch deep and about 1 inch apart in rows 10 inches apart. Alternatively, broadcast arugula seeds alone or mix with other salad greens.
  • Seeds germinate in about a week (or slightly longer in cold soil). Speed up germination by soaking seeds in water for a few hours prior to planting.
  • Sow new seeds every 2 to 3 weeks for a continuous harvest later on!
Growing
  • Keep soil evenly moist, especially in warmer weather when bolting may occur. (Bolting is when the plant skips right to producing flowers and seeds without developing much foliage first.)
  • Thin seedlings to about 6 inches apart, using the thinnings for salads.
  • To reduce heat stress and prevent bolting, provide some shade for warm-season plantings.

Arugula salad greens

Recommended Varieties
  • ‘Runway’ – Very fast growing plant with large-lobed leaves.
  • ‘Garden’ – Fast growing plants produce leaves with a mild, radish-like flavor.
  • ‘Italian Rocket’ – Also known as ‘Wild Italian Rocket’. Finely cut leaves with sharp flavor.
  • ‘Sylvetta’ – Small-lobed leaves. Slow growing and slow to bolt.
  • ‘Astro’ – Fast growing with a mild flavor.
Harvesting
  • The leaves taste best when young. Older leaves can be tougher and will have more of a bite!
  • Harvest leaves when they are about 2-3 inches long.
  • Pull up the whole plants or cut individual leaves as needed.
  • The white flowers are also edible. 
Wit and Wisdom
Pests/Diseases

Arugula Pests and Diseases
Pest/Disease Type Symptoms Control/Prevention
Cabbage worms Insect

Leaves have large, ragged holes or are skeletonized; dark green excrement; yellowish eggs laid singly on leaf undersides by white butterflies with two or three black spots on each wing

Handpick; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; grow companion plants (especially thyme); spray Bacillus thuringiensis (a beneficial bacterium)
Downy mildew Fungus

Yellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation

Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Flea beetles Insect

Numerous tiny holes in leaves, as if leaves have been hit by birdshot

Use row covers; mulch heavily; add native plants to invite beneficial insect predators
White rust Fungus

Chalk-white blisters mainly on leaf undersides; small, yellow-green spots or blisters, sometimes in circular arrangement, on upper leaf surfaces; possible distortion or galls; stems may also be infected

Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; weed; destroy crop residue; rotate crops
Recipes
Roasted Beets and Arugula
Cooking Notes

Packed with vitamins and minerals, arugula is often used fresh or in cooked dishes. Toss arugula into…

  • Salads
  • Soups
  • Omelettes and eggs
  • Sandwiches
  • Grains
  • Pizza toppings (Dress arugula lightly in a lemony vinaigrette.)

pizza-711662_1920_full_width.jpg

Vegetables
Lettuce

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Comments

Michele (not verified)

7 months ago

I live in Billings, Montana and every year for the past 5 years, I have been unable to find Arugala seeds or plants.
Any suggestions for finding them here? If not, then I have to order online again.
I like that you included the names of some types of Arugala to get.
Thanks!

Christine Mac Millan (not verified)

7 months 1 week ago

Hi, I would like to plant in pots. How big a pot should I use? Can I put other items in the same pot? Thanks

Lettuce greens, which include arugula, are fairly shallow rooted; they do not need but a couple or few inches of depth. More is fine but not necessary. See here for examples: https://www.almanac.com/how-grow-your-own-salad-greens

So you can use any size container but if you are growing other things, you might want depth to satisfy their root needs. You can search for individual vegetables on this web site (go to the top of this page for the search box) and learn more about each one’s needs.

Cheryl (not verified)

1 year 2 months ago

Responding to Mary's question about harvesting seeds. I just finished this about 2 minutes ago! When one of my arugula beds was determined to bolt, I let it. I let the seeds dry in the pods on the plant. Tonight I went and cut them off and captured the tiny seeds on white paper and saved in an envelope. I left out the ones that were still a little green for fear they might mold the dry ones. Waiting for slightly cooler weather to replant.

Mary (not verified)

1 year 3 months ago

I would like to grow my Arugula again and have let some seed pods grow on a flowered plant. At present the seeds inside are green. What is the quickest way to dry them to brown so I can plant again this season? Or will I need to wait till next season?