Growing Bell Peppers

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Bell Peppers

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Sweet bell peppers are a tender, warm-season crop and a relative of the tomato. Here’s how to plant and grow bell peppers in your garden!

Peppers resist most garden pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet, or hot; and a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. On this page, we focus on growing sweet bell peppers.

Unlike their spicy brethren, bell peppers do not contain capsaicin, which is the compound that gives hot peppers such as jalapeño peppers their pungency and heat.

Common Bell Pepper Questions

Do different-colored peppers come from different plants?

Surprisingly enough, the green and red bell peppers that we commonly see in supermarkets are actually the same pepper; the red bell peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer, which changes their color and lets them develop a higher Vitamin C content. More mature peppers also tend to be sweeter than their greener counterparts.

However, there are quite a few varieties of bell peppers out there, including purple, yellow, orange, white, and brown ones.

Are there male and female peppers?

There is a popular myth which states that pepper fruits can be either male or female—the difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, have more seeds, are sweeter, and are better for eating raw. This is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender and any obvious difference between fruits is simply the result of growing conditions or variety.

Planting Dates for BELL PEPPERS

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

When to Plant Peppers

Peppers are a tender, warm-season crop, so they typically need to be started indoors if grown from seed. Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your last spring frost date.
Bell peppers require a fairly long growing season (60 to 90 days), which is another reason to start them indoors: they get a nice headstart!
If growing from nursery-bought transplants, plant them outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed. Be sure to harden young plants off prior to planting outdoors, as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

Pepper plants require full sun to produce the largest and healthiest fruit, so pick a site that won’t get shaded out by trees or other garden plants.
Soil should be well-draining and rich in organic matter. Peppers don’t like to have “wet feet,” so avoid planting them in locations that get too wet.
A soil consistency somewhere between sandy and loamy will ensure that the soil drains well and warms quickly.
Soil pH should be on the slightly acidic side—6.0 to 7.0, ideally.
A week before transplanting peppers into the garden, introduce fertilizer or aged compost into your garden soil. Alternatively, mix in a slow-release fertilizer.
Avoid planting peppers in places where you’ve recently grown other members of the nightshade family—such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants—as this can expose peppers to disease.

How to Plant Peppers

In most cases, we recommend starting seeds indoors rather than in the garden. However, if you live in a warm, frost-free area, peppers may be direct-seeded in the garden.
The soil temperature should be at least 70°F (21°C) for optimal seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results. Use a heat pad under the seed tray, if necessary.
Plant seeds about ¼-inch deep (or refer to the seed packet).

Transplanting Young Plants into the Garden

Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting outdoors, which should be done 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed in the spring.
Once nighttime temperatures reach at least 60°F (16°C), transplant seedlings outdoors, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart.
Plant the transplants no deeper than they were already planted in their pots; otherwise, the stems may become more susceptible to rot.
The soil temperature should be at least 60°F (16°C) at the time of planting (though warmer is better), as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures. Speed up the warming of the soil by covering it with black plastic or a dark mulch about a week before you intend to plant.

Check out this video to learn how to plant bell peppers:

Care

How to Grow Peppers

Soil should be well draining, but be sure to maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering. Read more about using mulch.
Water one to two inches per square foot per week, but remember that sweet peppers are extremely heat sensitive. They are also susceptible to blossom-end rot if watering is not adequate. If you live in a warm or desert climate, or are simply experiencing a hot, dry summer, watering everyday may be necessary.
Fertilize with a low-nitrogen fertilizer after the first fruit set. (Too much nitrogen can cause the plant to produce foliage instead of flowers and fruit!)
Weed carefully around plants to avoid disturbing roots.
If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.

Green bell peppers on plant

Pests/Diseases

Pest/Disease	Type	Symptoms	Control/Prevention
Anthracnose	Fungus	Yellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and fruit; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, plants rot	Destroy infected plants; choose resistent varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost for nutrition; use mulch; practice crop rotation. Find images and more information about anthracnose here.
Aphids	Insect	Misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement produced by aphids); sooty, black mold that forms on honeydew; large presence of ants on plants	Grow companion plants to either attract aphids away (nasturtiums) or repel them outright (basil, rosemary, strong-scented plants); knock aphids off plants with water spray, apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peel around plants; wipe leaves with a 1-2% solution of liquid dish soap and water every 2-3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to attract aphid predators. Find images and more information about aphids here.
Blossom-end Rot	Nutrient Deficiency	Caused by lack of sufficient calcium uptake. Symptoms: dark, water-soaked spots on blossom end of fruit (the side opposite the stem) may enlarge and become sunken, leathery, rotted	Remove affected fruit; plant at proper soil temperature; water deeply and evenly; use mulch; maintain proper soil pH (6.5) and nutrient levels; avoid excessive nitrogen; provide good drainage; avoid damaging roots. Find more images and information about blossom-end rot here.
Colorado Potato Beetles	Insect	Yellow-orange eggs laid in clusters on leaf undersides; larvae and adults chew holes in foliage	Remove eggs/larvae/beetles by hand; use straw mulch; weed around plants; use row covers; destroy plant matter at end of season; practice crop rotation
Flea Beetles	Insect	Numerous tiny holes in leaves (as if they had been hit by a tiny shotgun)	Use row covers to physically block flea beetles; mulch heavily; add native plants to attract beneficial insect predators. Find more information and images of flea beetles here.
Mosaic Virus (Cucumber)	Virus	Symptoms vary, but may include: stunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruit	Often spread by aphids. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect gardening tools after each use; keep garden weed-free; use mulch. Find images and more information about mosaic viruses here.
Root-knot Nematodes	Insect	Roots become “knotted” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wilted	Destroy affected plant matter (especially roots); choose resistant varieties; expose soil to sun (solarize); add aged manure/compost; disinfect gardening tools between uses; till soil in autumn; practice crop rotation
Tomato Hornworms	Insect	Chewed leaves (initially toward top of plant); rapid defoliation; black/green excrement; gouged fruit	Check undersides of leaves for hornworms, remove by hand and dispose of hornworms. (If you encounter hornworms that have white, ricelike cocoons on their backs, relocate them instead; the cocoons belong to beneficial parasitic wasps.) Till soil in autumn and spring; companion plant with dill/basil/marigolds to attract (and trap) or repel hornworms; spray plants with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Find images and more information about hornworms here.

Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60°F (16°C) and above 90°F (32°C).
Too much nitrogen in the soil can produce healthy foliage growth but discourage fruit from setting.

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Peppers

Harvest as soon as peppers reach desired size or color.
The longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their vitamin C content.
Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant.

How to Store Peppers

Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
Bell peppers can be dried, and we would recommend a conventional oven for the task:
- Wash, core, and seed the peppers. Cut into one-half-inch strips. Steam for about ten minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven at 140°F (or the lowest possible temperature) until brittle, stirring occasionally and switching tray positions. When the peppers are cool, put them in bags or storage containers.

Recommended Varieties

Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!

Green peppers that turn Red: ‘Lady Bell’, ‘Gypsy’, ‘Bell Boy’, ‘Lipstick’
…Orange: ‘Milena’, ‘Orange Sun’
…Yellow: ‘Golden California Wonder’

Wit & Wisdom

Recipes

Cooking Notes

To learn how to make pickled bell peppers, watch this video!
Get more tips on cooking with peppers.

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Reader Comments

Sun burn on bell peppers

i have a consistent problem with growing peppers. I live in northern CA not too far from the bay. My peppers tend to get sunburned - they get burn spots on them where the sun hits them. I haven't been able to find a way to keep this from happening - if I try to shade the plant, it stops growing. If anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Cool spell

I may have planted too soon this year. We just had a few nights that were in the cold side (35-45 F) and my peppers look stressed. I covered them for the last few nights and they are in warm straw bale gardens, but a friend of mine said that they may comeback but likely won’t bear much fruit. Is this true? Does cold stress reduce production even if the plant looks okay?

tomatoes--peppers

The companion gardening section says tomatoes and peppers help each other if grown together. The planting section says don't plant peppers where tomatoes have recently grown-or potatoes or eggplants. If you plant both plants at the same time, together, do they help each other? But if you take out tomatoes and replant with peppers, it is no good for the peppers?
Confusing.

Bringing pepper plants indoors for the winter

I live in zone 6b and have very acidic soil, so I grew my tomato and pepper plants in self-wicking containers this year. I have heard that bell pepper plants in containers can be brought indoors to overwinter. What steps should be followed to do this successfully?

peppers indoors

Your peppers are annuals, so under the best conditions, they are going to cease to thrive before too long. They are, essentially, outdoor plants, so if you bring them indoors and expect to keep them going even a while, or start new ones, you need to replicate ourdoor conditions. That would mean light, heat, and whatever nutrients. You can learn more about lighting here https://www.almanac.com/content/best-grow-lights-growing-vegetables and about hydroponics (although it is not exactly your system) here: https://www.almanac.com/what-hydroponics-basics-hydroponics

Red bell peppers

Some of my red bell peppers have a couple of scars on the bottom. The scars do not cause a hole.

May I know why there are some

May I know why there are some yellow between leave vein? Is it a pepper disease?

1st time gardener

i bought 2 peppers 3 months ago to make stuffed peppers with,for the hell of it, i saved the seeds....i had an empty 2 foot high square planter....1 bag of Miracle Grow, 1 bag of playground sand....and about 100 seeds.....i planted about 25 seeds in 4 holes in the planter....then i forgot about it for 3-4 days....when i went to check on it, all 4 holes had sprouts coming up....UPDATE to today.....the green peppers are comin thru on the plants, i have found 4 of them about the size of a silver dollar on 3 out of the 4 plants.....the plants are 2 feet high in the planter....not bad for a 1st timer(im 55 y.o.).....i think ill buy another planter and soil and sand.....maybe this time.....tomatoes

growing peppers

i like the video, it is very informative. my favorite type is scotch bonnet pepper and sweet pepper. i lived in jamaica where the climate is hot all year long is this agood climate for growing peppers?

Pepper growing? Is it too cold?

I live in New Hampshire and I used to help out with a garden that had both hot peppers, bell peppers, and banana peppers. However I am now starting a garden of my own. I do not know what peppers I should avoid and which I can grow. I am hesitant to grow any of the peppers that I have some experience with because they say they need warmer climates and the climate here is usually between 20 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Could you shed some light on this. I am also wondering about protecting peppers during the winter if I grow them in a raised garden or garden box.

peppers in NH?

You should be able to grow a number of pepper varieties in most parts of New Hampshire during the summer growing season, which is any time now until around Labor Day or possibly September 24, potentially the date of the first fall frost, for a growing season of about 127 days. Check you plants for the growing days to maturity. 20°F is not a summer temp anywhere outdoors in the state that we know of. Peppers would not likely survive in winter as you describe in a raised bed or box.

green peppers

Store in paper bags not plastic. Not only are they more environmentally friendly but the peppers will not go bad for much longer than they do in the plastic. True story.

Sweet Peppers

How do you protect your sweet pepper plants from the extreme heat during the summer months in NW Kansas?

I used to live in NW Kansas

The 2 things I remember about living there is the lack of rain during July and August and the very hot winds. The hot winds in my opinion are the biggest problem. Growing in the country was a bigger challenge than in the city. There are many wind blocks in the city. Also you can find shade. These two items can be at a premium in the country. I would first mulch the soil well to help keep the soil moist and cool. Second I would look for a partially shaded site. What you want is a good SE facing spot for the peppers. Measure the sunlight to be sure you are getting 4-6 hrs of sunlight. The SE sun is much gentler on the plants than the SW sun. Hopefully you also have a good wind break out in the country so those plants can survive the dry, hot winds that as I remember were averaging 20-30 mi/hr. Our winds came mostly from the SW to W direction. So finding a way to break the wind on that side would be very helpful. Buildings and cedar fences are great for this.

Mixed up pepper plants

I planted one green, one red, and Longfellow bell pepper. Apparently the markers in the plants I purchased were wrong as I have one plant producing long sweet peppers of some sort, and now I'm unsure what the other two plants are. I don't k,ow if one is red and we are picking them too soon thinking they are green bells? I read in another comment here that they are the same plant and you just leave the green ones on longer to get red? Is that correct? So these peppers can be picked green if you want green peppers, and if you want red you just leave them on the vine longer? I guess I thought I needed one of each to get the different colors/flavors

Typo

This should read one red, one green, and one yellow....not Longfellow

planting calendar

Will I get this information for all vegetables or only peppers?

Thank you.

Skinny bell peppers

This is my first time growing bell peppers and all of mine are long and skinny. I started with plants and have each one in a 15 inch diameter pot. I also live in west central Indiana. I did not know about the match sticks. Can this be the problem?

skinny peppers

This is a tough one. Match sticks may not exactly be the problem but it may be a hint: we are thinking that something about the soil is inadequate, is not providing the nutrients the plant needs or allowing it to absorb them. Did you check the pH of the soil? Do you fertilize? Something with not too much nitrogen (the first number in the set of three, e.g. 5-10-5)? Is the plant getting enough water? Containers famously dry out before/quicker than the ground. Is the pot outdoors in the sun?

Still and all, it might be the soil. Don’t want to snow you with info but here’s a list of the “invisible” but so-important nutrients plants need and are often evaluated in soil tests: http://hortipm.tamu.edu/ipmguide/nutrient/diagnosi.html “Fruit” is not mentioned but once, but as the ultimate product, it could be affected.

Weird growth

My peppers are growing pointing up instead of down. It is strange and they are growing large and strong. Does anyone know the reason for this? Just have never seen it before.

Peppers

What kind of peppers are they? Thai chilie peppers grow upward and Serreno peppers look like Thai chilies but are round at the bottom and grow down. Usually bigger.

Why can't my peepers plants

Why can't my peepers plants grow,dang it
They flower and start but don't grow,
I'm just north of Toronto 73-86f average
This will be the second year they didn't do well, but three years ago did very well

bell peppers

after a couple weeks in the ground I trimmed my peppers back to four leaves .the stalks quadroupled in size and tons of new foliage.Plants are about 18 inch now ,,flowers forming at top.Should I be pinching them off for bigger crop later?

pinch the peppers?

That’s the theory, Chuck: that pinching off the early flowers (and small fruit) encourages more fruit production.

match sticks

instead of match sticks at the bottom of plants, I bought chemical grade flower of sulfur, which seems to float and not mix with water. will this work just the same? thanks

flower of sulphur

We have no experience with this product so can not comment but a little searching (of .edu’s) turn up this page that may or may not be helpful to you: https://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/080818.html

Huge leaves?

My pepper plants have very large leaves on them mainly the bottom leaves. Will these large leaves take away any energy from the fruit? Heard of trimming them, Just don't really know? Any suggestions? Thanks!

Large Leaves

No, large leaves won’t take away from the fruit. Provided the plant is adequately fed and watered, the large leaves should be beneficial (more surface area for photosynthesis = more energy).

Once the plant is established in the ground, it’s important not to use a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, which promotes foliage growth rather than flower and fruit production.

1st timer w/Bell Peppers

So i grew out some bell peppers which I transplanted in to 1 gallon pots.
Situation is this: I live in an apt, & I only had a couple gallons so I transplanted the best 16 plants into 4 pots of a gallon thinking I could transplant when they got bigger BUT the started to bloom flowers now.
I never thought they would get so tall & have such big leaves (sorry 1st timer on this). So the thing is they started blooming flowers but the flowers are drying up after 2 days or so.
They are getting at least 4hrs of direct sunlight, they are watered & well drained, also I helped with pollination process since they are kept inside, so I have no idea whats going on. could it that they are crowded? , Could you shed some light?

early blossoms

Early flowering in peppers sometimes happens. Some gardeners leave the flowers alone, but others prefer to pinch the early blossoms so that the plant can focus on developing a good root system before focusing on fruit production. Blossoms may drop if the plant is stressed, such as too hot (above 85F or 90F day) or cold (below 60F night), or not enough or too little water. Peppers are particularly sensitive to temperature, and like daytime temps of around 70 to 80F. Transplanting may also stress the plant for a little while, but they should recover. Petals of a successfully pollinated flower will drop after a few days–look just near the area of the petals to see if a little fruit is forming. Hope this helps!