For daily wit & wisdom, get the Almanac newsletter.

Planting and Growing Cantaloupes: Sweet Summer Melons

Botanical Name
Cucumis melo
Grown as
Annual
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
High
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
6-10 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Yellow
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Fragrant
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Resilience
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Fruit
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Nothing whispers summer like a chilled slice of sweet, orange cantaloupe juice dribbling down your chin. 

Good news: These sun-loving melons are easy to grow—and even easier to devour. Let’s get planting!

Cantaloupes are a type of melon with a tan-green rind. Typically, the rind is covered in a spiderweb-like pattern, though some varieties may also be striped. Inside, the flesh is bright orange and sweet. Their growing requirements are similar to those of other popular melons, such as watermelons and honeydew melons.

Cantaloupes sliced

Planting

Plant in a spot that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day) with well-draining soil that’s a mix between loamy and sandy. (Growing the plants in raised rows—a.k.a. “hills”—ensures good drainage.) Amend the soil with aged manure or compost before planting. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Mulching the planting site with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: It will warm the soil ahead of planting, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.

When to Plant Cantaloupes

This warm-season, very tender crop thrives in heat and hates the cold! It thrives in warmer climates with longer growing seasons.

  • It’s best started directly from seed. If you live in a warmer climate, you may direct sow seeds outdoors after all danger of frost is well past and when the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F (21°C).
  • However, if you’re set on growing cantaloupes in a colder region, you can start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after the last spring frost when the soil is at least 70°F (21°C). 

How to Plant Cantaloupes

  • Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 18 inches apart, in hills (or hilled rows) about 3 feet apart.
  • If you have limited space, vines can be trained up a support, such as a trellis.
  • If you plant indoors, use peat pots or soil blocks to avoid root disturbance. Harden off seedlings before transplanting. 

Cantaloupes growing

Growing

  • If a soil test indicates that nutrients are lacking, fertilize with a standard liquid fertilizer when vines start growing and spreading. Later on, avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers, as too much nitrogen can result in lots of foliage and less fruit.
  • Row covers are a good way to keep pests like squash bugs and vine borers at bay.
  • Watering is key. While the plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need about 2 inches per square foot of water (about 1.5 gallons) per week.
    • Water in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves, as wet foliage encourages fungal and other diseases.
    • If possible, use drip irrigation to keep plants consistently and evenly watered.
    • Mulching around the plants can help to retain moisture.
    • Reduce watering once fruits are growing. Hot, dry weather produces the sweetest melons.
    • If you’ve had an exceptional amount of rainfall during the ripening stage, this can cause bland fruit.
  • Once fruit begins to grow, prune end buds off vines. Your plants may produce fewer melons, but they will be larger and of better quality.
  • Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. (Don’t be discouraged when the first blooms do not produce fruit.)
  • As with other cucurbits, melons have flowers that require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
  • If your muskmelons taste bland, the trouble could be a lack of magnesium in sandy soil. Sweeten the fruit by spraying the vines with this solution: Dissolve 6-1/2 tablespoons of Epsom salts and 3-1/3 tablespoons of borax in 5 gallons of water. Spray the foliage when the vines begin to “run” and again when the fruit is about 2 inches in diameter.

Harvesting

How and When to Harvest Cantaloupes

  • When rinds begin to change from green to tan or yellow, the melon is typically ripe enough to pick. Be careful not to pick too early, however.
  • Look for a crack in the stem where it attaches to the fruit. This is a sign of ripeness as well. The fruit should be easy to separate from the vine, but if the fruits fall off by themselves, they are usually overripe.
  • Harvest melons when vines are dry, and be careful not to damage them.
  • Melons will soften after harvesting but will not continue to sweeten off the vine.
  • Cantaloupe can be stored uncut for 5 or 6 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 3 days, wrapped tightly in plastic.

Pests and Problems

Cantaloupe Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers; leaf drop; sticky “honeydew” (excretion) on leaves; sooty, black moldKnock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; inspect new plants carefully; use slow-release fertilizers; avoid excess nitrogen; encourage aphid pests such as lacewings, ladybugs, spiders.
Cucumber beetlesInsectHoles in leaves/flowers; rasped fruit; plants stunted/die; may transmit bacterial wilt (Bacterial wilt signs: wilting; plants die; ends of cut stems, when pressed together for 10 seconds and pulled apart, release stringy, white sap)Handpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt.
Cucumber mosaic virusVirusStunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruitDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids; use mulch.
Fusarium wiltFungusPlants wilt (sometimes on just one side) in daytime; leaves turn yellow (lower ones first); later, entire plant wilts/dies; stunting; stem cross section reveals brown discolorationDestroy infected plants; avoid excessive nitrogen; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; choose resistant varieties; disinfect tools; rotate crops.
Powdery mildewFungusTypically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue.
Squash vine borers (moth & larvae)InsectLarge, wrinkled larvae become orange-red/black, wasp-like, daytime moths; larvae bore into vines; vines wilt suddenly; plants die; mushy area and/or green to orange-yellow, sawdust-like excrement on/near base of plant stemIf detected early, slit infested stem lengthwise halfway to remove borer(s), then bury the cut in moist soil to encourage rooting; wrap seedling stems in aluminum foil collar; catch moths with yellow sticky traps; use row covers if no pests previously, but uncover before flowering; destroy crop residue; rotate crops.

Types

  • ‘Ambrosia’ – 85 days to maturity. Among the sweetest varieties.
  • ‘Athena’ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety that produces large, 5- to 6-pound fruits.
  • ‘Hale’s Best Jumbo’ – 80–90 days to maturity. Produces 3-pound aromatic melons.
  • ‘Minnesota Midget’ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety well-suited for gardens in colder regions. Produces 1-pound, sweetly flavored melons.
  • ‘Bush Star’ – 90 days to maturity. Bush variety suits gardeners with limited space.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Oddly enough, the melon that is commonly referred to as a “cantaloupe” in North America is not a true cantaloupe, which is more common in Europe. In fact, our “cantaloupes” are a type of muskmelon. (True cantaloupe has a rough, warty rind and is not widely grown or commercially available in the U.S. and Canada.) In North America, the names “muskmelon” and “cantaloupe” are used interchangeably, but we refer to this fruit simply as “cantaloupe” on this page to avoid confusion!
  • Cantaloupe was named for Cantalupo, a former papal villa near Rome.

Fruit

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

More Like This

Comments

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 04/18/2016 - 15:43

Correct. Put nothing but the canteloupe vine on the black plastic mulch for the reasons given above. See below, for another option. One reader uses pine bark instead. (Many sources say that the pine mulch will have little to no effect on pH of the soil...but it doesn't hurt to check it before planting again.)

 <span>Dave Kraemer</span> Tue, 01/26/2016 - 07:54
could you please send me a catologe thankyou. im a new gardener and don't know what im doing. please help me
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 01/26/2016 - 10:46

Hi Dave, Click here for a page that lists garden catalogs. Many of them are free and many of the information is now available online, too.  We do not sell seeds or plants but this list has many of the best suppliers and can at least give you a sense of what is available. Hope this is helpful!

 <span>Dave Matthews Graves</span> Mon, 08/17/2015 - 19:25
I live in middle US my canelloph are going crazy 4 plants and like 25 melons taking over everything. Can I cut some of the vines and still have them grow and freshen the fruit already started?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 08/18/2015 - 16:05

To save space, you can try training the vines on trellises. Be sure to support the developing fruit, with a cloth sling.

Pruning the melon vines can make them susceptible to disease and insects, and the more leaves a vine has, the sweeter the melons might be. But if they are outgrowing the space, you can try pinching the growing tips of the main runner(s). This will sometimes encourage the growth of lateral vines that branch off the runner(s) and produce most of the fruit. Some gardeners do trim the lateral vines back as well and/or remove all but 1 or 2 fruit per lateral. This can help the plant to focus on developing larger fruit. To prune the lateral vines, one method is to: Select those that are developing fruit; cut them back to about 3 or 4 sets of leaves further beyond where the last healthy developing fruit is that you want to keep. Remove all but 1 or 2 fruit per lateral. Remove non-fruiting laterals, but be sure that you have at least four laterals on the main vine, with a healthy amount of leaves. About 50 days before first fall frost, pinch off developing flowers, leaving the remaining fruit to mature.

 <span>Davi Rodrigues</span> Thu, 08/06/2015 - 13:18
I am in Sacramento CA. We have a 9 foot long by 8 foot tall trellis that is supporting about 13 cantaloupe plants, and has just under 60 melons. The first 40 or so have been on the vine for well over the stated period. They have not turned yellow or produced the aroma of ripe fruit yet, and the plants are now at about 104 days, give or take. They seem to have stagnated as far as maturity. I've been watering with a line of drip emitters on each side. each emitter is 1 gallon per hour, and there's about 1.5 emitters per plant, with a watering cycle of 13 minutes twice a day. I recently cut back to hand watering to see if there would be any change, but as of yet there isn't. Don't know why they are taking so long to ripen. there mulch and compost around the base, it's not soggy by any means, and only recently have we seen the beginnings of aphids on one section. They look healthy otherwise, some are small and some are large and medium size, as well as some newer ones that came later still forming. Any ideas, or should I keep patient. The fruits are still greenish on the background and the exterior is properly rough. No sine of cracking around the vine
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 08/11/2015 - 12:03

If the vines and melons look healthy they are still growing. Leave the melons on the vines until you see signs that the vines are starting to dry out or that the melons are ripe. You may have too many melons on the vines and that can cause some of the delay. Remove any new flowers and small melons that you don't think will mature.

 <span>Mugabo Dieudonne</span> Sat, 06/20/2015 - 01:17
I leave in tropical zone of Africa. We have many months of raining season. Can I grow melons by open field?
<span>Eze Otah</span> Sat, 08/08/2015 - 20:08
How is cantaloque seed preserved and can it grow in tropical Africa?.
<span>Rida Hashim</span> Wed, 06/10/2015 - 06:20
i want to ask that how much light do cantaloupe need?low or high? and how much humidity cantaloupe need?