Growing Hydrangeas

How to Plant, Grow, and Prune Hydrangeas

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With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Unrivaled in the shrub world for beautiful flowers, the elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce abundant blooms. Colors beguile with clear blue, vibrant pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!

Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers. Varieties abound (every year, it seems, breeders present us with more options!), and gardeners’ expectations of bloom size and color are boundless. To know how your hydrangea will grow, pay attention to the types, defined below. When you know what to expect, delights will be magnified.

“How to change hydrangea flower color” is a common question from Almanac readers. Yes, the flowers of Bigleaf hydrangeas can change color based on the soil pH! Blues are best grown in acidic soil; pinks and reds do best in alkaline or neutral soil. We get into more detail below.

Planting

Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the Bigleaf hydrangeas.
Plant in spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly.
Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.

Pink hydrangea flowers

How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings

Hydrangeas can easily be grown from cuttings. They root readily and the process makes for a great lesson in propagation. Here’s how to do it:

On a well-established hydrangea, find a branch that is new growth and that has not flowered. New growth will appear lighter in color than old growth, and the stem will not be as rigid.
From the tip of the branch, move 4 to 5 inches down and make a horizontal cut. Make sure that there are at least 3 to 4 pairs of leaves on your cutting.
Remove the lowest pair of leaves from the cutting, trimming them flush to the stem. Roots grow more easily from these leaf nodes, so if you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Be sure to keep at least 2 pairs of leaves at the tip end of the cutting, though.
If the remaining leaves are quite large, cut them in half, removing the tip-half. This prevents the leaves from hitting the sides of the plastic bag you will place over the cutting later on (to keep the humidity up).
(Optional) Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone and an anti-fungal powder for plants (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will encourage rooting and discourage rotting.
Prepare a small pot and fill it with moistened potting mix. Plant the cutting in the soil, sinking it down to the first pair of remaining leaves. Water lightly to get rid of any air gaps around the stem.
Cover the entire pot loosely with a plastic bag. Make sure the bag isn’t touching the leaves of the cutting, otherwise the leaves can rot. (Chopsticks or something similar can be used to prop up the bag and keep it off the leaves.)
Place the pot in a warm area that’s sheltered from direct sunlight and wind.
Check on your cutting every few days to make sure that it isn’t rotting and only water again once the top layer of soil is dry. With luck, the cutting should root in a few weeks! (Check by gently pulling on the cutting; if you feel resistance, roots have formed.)

Care

How to Care for a Hydrangea

For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)

How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers

It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.

It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.

Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.

See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.

Hydrangea colors

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea.

Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.

Pruning Common Hydrangeas

The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)

Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), as well as Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).

Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.

Pruning Other Hydrangeas

Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties blossom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).
Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.

Read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties.

Pests/Diseases

Click links for common pest pages:

Gray mold
Slugs
Powdery mildew
Rust
Ringspot virus
Leaf spots

Harvest/Storage

How to Cut and Store Dried Flowers

Use dried hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:

Cut the flower heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
Remove leaves from stems, and hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted fabric dye.

Bigleaf Hydrangea (mophead)

How to Use Hydrangeas in a Bouquet

Place the freshly cut hydrangea stems immediately into cold water to avoid wilting.
Recut the woody stems at a slant under water. Remove lower leaves on the stems.
Arrange the stems in a vase and place in a cool spot.
Check the water in the vase daily and mist the blooms with water.
Soak wilting blooms in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes to revive them.

Recommended Varieties

For a more detailed overview of the many types of hydrangeas, check out Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

There are two main groups of hydrangeas:

Group 1: Plants that bloom on new growth (this year’s stems)

The following hydrangeas, which form their buds in early summer on new growth, will flower reliably each year, requiring no special care.

Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)
- ‘Grandiflora’ is a big, old-fashioned, floppy variety, ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Moth’, and ‘Pee Wee’ fit the scale of small gardens. ‘Limelight’ produces cool-green flowers and grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet.
Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
- Look for the cultivars H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘Annabelle’, which produce many large (up to 14 inches across), tight, symmetrical blooms in late summer.

Bigleaf hydrangea lacecap
Image: Lacecap hydrangea

Group 2: Plants that bloom on old growth (last year’s stems)

If you live in Zone 8 or warmer, choose plants from this group. Gardeners in cool climate zones will find many of them a challenge, because they set flower buds in the fall. Although hardy to Zones 4 and 5, the buds are prone to damage by an early frost in fall, a late frost in spring, or excessively cold temperatures when dormant in winter. This, along with untimely pruning, can result in inconsistent flowering or no flowering at all.

Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- You can expect exceptional fall color from ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Snow Flake’, and ‘Alice’.
Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
- We love ‘All Summer Beauty’ (Mophead), which has profuse, dark blue flowers—turning more pink in soils with near neutral pH. If its buds are winter-killed, the plant will form new ones in spring and still bloom.
- ‘Nikko Blue’ (Mophead) is vigorous, with large, rounded, blue flowers.
- ‘Blue Wave’ (Lacecap) produces rich blue to mauve or lilac-blue to pink flowers.
- ‘Color Fantasy’ (Mophead) has reddish or deep purple flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. It grows to about 3 feet tall.
Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata)
- Examples are ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’. In acidic soil, ‘Preziosa’ produces blossoms of an extraordinary blend of pale shades of blue, mauve, violet, and green.
Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala ssp. Petiolaris)
- ‘Firefly’ is a newly-patented variety exhibiting variegated foliage.

For more about hydrangea varieties, see Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.

Wit & Wisdom

The name hydrangea is derived from the Greek words hydor meaning water and angeion meaning vessel, referring to the plant’s seed pods, which look like small water jugs.

In the language of flowers, hydrangeas symbolize gratitude for being understood, or frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.

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Reader Comments

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Hydrangea in Zone 5

Can i plant my hydrangea now in September?
We have had our first hard frost,and the plant has been outside since May. It has big leaves and pink flowers,thats all i know about the plant.
I have sandy soil .I would just plant it without taking anything off,and mulch with pine needles.
I purchased it last year from a grocery store,and kept it on a shelf in front of window, now its to big and heavy pot for that,could i plant it now ie keep it in my garage? Thank you from Wisconsin

plant in Sept?

We think that the best place for this plant is in the garage or basement for the winter. Occasionally give it a few spoonfuls of water.

In the spring, improve your soil with compost and peat moss. Check the pH (see above for the desirable range). Your sandy soil will let water run through it, leaving the plant to dry out in all likelihood).

No blossoms

I have had my hydrangeas for three years now and no blossoms. The plant it self grows very big and green. I don't know what to do.

no blossoms

Without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. Then there was this that I read in a recent Boston Globe edition: The question was similar to yours and the answer was, in sum, that some varieties are forced to flower by growers, shipped, then purchased by people in areas/communities where the plants would not normally flower anyway. Know at least that you are not alone in the dilemma.

HYDRANGEAS

HELP - i HAVE COME HOME FROM HOLIDAY TO FIND MY BEAUTIFUL HYDRANGEAS HAVE TAKEN OVER MY GARDEN!!!!!! CAN SOMEONE PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF IT IS SAFE TO CUT BACK SOME OF THE STEMS AT THIS TIME OF YEAR. WE ARE HOPING TO MOVE NEXT YEAR AND DESPERATELY WANT TO TAKE SOME OF MY HYDRANGEAS WITH ME - ANY HELP ON THAT PLEASE

pruning tips

Try this: https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/when-prune-differe...

You should be able to lift and move them.

Hydrageas

I have two plants that have not bloomed since first year. One beside them blooms fantastic. Any suggestions to get "lazy ones" back on track?

no blossoms

Rather like the writer two Qs up, without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. It’s a common dilemma.

Hydrangea look diseased

I have a row of hydrangea that may get more sunlight than needed. By August they usually look pretty dried out with the flowers brown and plant looking pretty sad. But this year almost all the leaves are gone and it looks like the plant is more than dry but diseased. I'm thinking I may need to remove the hydrangeas as they are getting to much sun. Do you think its too much sun or could it be a disease?

dry or diseased?

Being in the hot sun all day is probably taking its toll. Above (and below) we suggest that most hydrangeas do best in morning sun and afternoon shade/partial shade. You don’t mention water. Are they getting water? Lack of it would take a toll on any plant. Dig down with your hands/fingers and see how deep you have to go before you feel damp soil; that might be an indication of whether they are dry. As for disease, it’s hard to know from this vantage point.

My hydrangea in my garden is

My hydrangea in my garden is quite old but still produces a lot of white flowers every year however last year and this year the flowers turned brown and looked dead, what do you think this happened?

dead-looking flowers

Most of the times this happens it’s due to too hot sun, not enough shade and waaaay too little water. You should water deeply. It will not brig the brown flowers back but it will relieve the plant.

Honeysuckle

when should I cut them down from my trellis as they are getting out of hand now and one side of the trellis did not have any flowers - why?

Limelight Hydrangeas Tree

My tree has beautiful flowers on it but it is drooping. Is this because of the heavy flowers or, could there be another reason?

Drooping

That is the most likely reason for drooping branches, especially if it has been raining recently. If it has been unusually dry in your area and the leaves themselves are drooping, you ought to give your hydrangea a bit of water at the base of the plant to perk it back up.

Cannot see the blooms

I have a beautiful bush with huge flowers, however my problem is, I cannot see the blooms as the leaves have grown over and taller than the blooms. Can I trim it up a bit?

blooms are buried in the leaves

Without knowing more about the type of hydrangea it is hard to say whether pruning would be wise. See above; pruning now alter next year’s bloom season.

scorching of leaves

Recently I planted Hydrengea in a pot. plant is established but the leaves have been scorching from the edges. some of the leaves are half burnt (dried). We have rainy season and weather is cloudy. Will you please tell me how to overcome this problem so that leaves remain green and don't dry up.

scorched leaves

We can’t be certain. but it could be Cercospora leaf spot which is a disease caused by the fungus Cercospora hydrangeae. This occurs in warm weather with frequent rain. Make sure that the soil is well draining and the plant is in a place in which the air circulates well. Consult a nursery about a fungicide for ornamental plants. If possible, bring the plant into the nursery and see if they identify the problem as something else.

Hydrangeas

How do you get hydrangeas to bloom? Mine rarely blooms. Do you think it is a pruning issue?

Hydrangeas not blooming

There are several reasons why hydrangeas won’t bloom. First, they do need some sunlight to set flowers—so if yours are in total shade, that could be limiting flowering.

Also, many people prune hydrangeas incorrectly, cutting down the old stems which is where some varieties set buds! See our article on when to prune different hydrangeas: https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/when-prune-different-kinds-hydrangeas

Finally, in any year with a late frost, hydrangea buds can get frozen; that means no blooms for the year. Hope this helps.

Planting hydrangeas

I bought a hydrangea & started it in a pot. It is growing & I was wondering if it would be wise to plant in ground in the fall in zone 8

hydrangeas

Is it best to just use mulch around the plants or also use plastic first? If so, how big should the opening be to allow for watering and feedling? Can it be against the plant?
Thank you!

Planting hydrangea seeds

I have hydrangea seeds, what is the right time to sow 7 what procedure is to be followed. we live in northern india & its monsoon time here. When not raining the temp goes very high. Will they survive?

hydrangea from seed

The best advice we have is to open this link and scroll to page 6, top left: https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB1840-A.pdf

We hope this helps!

Watering Hydranges

I just planted two hydranges out front for morning sun. Can you over water hydranges? What are the signs of overwatering verses signs of too much heat? Where does the plant like to be watered? At base or all over?

Thanks for your help.
tracy

when to water

Most plants prefer to dry out between waterings. Floppy leaves/foliage under a hot sun can appear to be a sign of needing water but is not always. Often the leaves recover in the evening/overnight. Water at the base. See here for more information re care: https://www.almanac.com/plant/hydrangeas

glowing ember hydrangeas..

Do I need to prune and if so when...i have morning morning sun and then shade is this good for them.

Hydrangea gardening in the Phils

Hi . Just bought 3 pots of hydrageas in blue , pink and maroon. Should I plant them in containers or on the ground and how do keep them thriving? Thanks

plant and then what?

Hi, Jean, We have just about all of the guidance you need in the notes above, from planting to caring, etc. Take a look. As for containers vs ground, containers will need to be watered more often (water in the containers evaporates more quickly) and if they are in the ground, you will not have to transfer them to a larger container. But it really all depends on your situation (ground space, deck, sunlight/shade, etc.) and what you want to do.

We hope this helps!