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Growing Hydrangeas
How to Plant, Grow, and Prune Hydrangeas
How to Plant, Grow, and Prune Hydrangeas
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With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Unrivaled in the shrub world for beautiful flowers, the elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce abundant blooms. Colors beguile with clear blue, vibrant pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers. Varieties abound (every year, it seems, breeders present us with more options!), and gardeners’ expectations of bloom size and color are boundless. To know how your hydrangea will grow, pay attention to the types, defined below. When you know what to expect, delights will be magnified.
Enjoy this ode to the beautiful of hydrangeas and learn how to plant and grow hydrangeas below.
Planting
- Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
- They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the Bigleaf hydrangeas.
- Plant in spring or fall.
- Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
- Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
- Water thoroughly.
- Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings
Hydrangeas can easily be grown from cuttings. They root readily and the process makes for a great lesson in propagation. Here’s how to do it:
- On a well-established hydrangea, find a branch that is new growth and that has not flowered. New growth will appear lighter in color than old growth, and the stem will not be as rigid.
- From the tip of the branch, move 4 to 5 inches down and make a horizontal cut. Make sure that there are at least 3 to 4 pairs of leaves on your cutting.
- Remove the lowest pair of leaves from the cutting, trimming them flush to the stem. Roots grow more easily from these leaf nodes, so if you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Be sure to keep at least 2 pairs of leaves at the tip end of the cutting, though.
- If the remaining leaves are quite large, cut them in half, removing the tip-half. This prevents the leaves from hitting the sides of the plastic bag you will place over the cutting later on (to keep the humidity up).
- (Optional) Dust the leafless part of the stem with rooting hormone and an anti-fungal powder for plants (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will encourage rooting and discourage rotting.
- Prepare a small pot and fill it with moistened potting mix. Plant the cutting in the soil, sinking it down to the first pair of remaining leaves. Water lightly to get rid of any air gaps around the stem.
- Cover the entire pot loosely with a plastic bag. Make sure the bag isn’t touching the leaves of the cutting, otherwise the leaves can rot. (Chopsticks or something similar can be used to prop up the bag and keep it off the leaves.)
- Place the pot in a warm area that’s sheltered from direct sunlight and wind.
- Check on your cutting every few days to make sure that it isn’t rotting and only water again once the top layer of soil is dry. With luck, the cutting should root in a few weeks! (Check by gently pulling on the cutting; if you feel resistance, roots have formed.)
Care
How to Care for a Hydrangea
- For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
- If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
- In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)
How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers
It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.
It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.
Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.
Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.
| Hydrangea Type | When to Prune | Where Flowers Appear |
|---|---|---|
| Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Panicle (H. paniculata) | Late winter, before spring growth | On new growth |
| Smooth (H. arborescens) | Late winter, before spring growth | On new growth |
| Mountain (H. serrata) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).
- Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
- Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
- To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
- If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
- It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
- When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.
Other Hydrangeas
Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).
- Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
- In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.
Pests/Diseases
Click links for common pest pages:
- Gray mold
- Slugs
- Powdery mildew
- Rust
- Ringspot virus
- Leaf spots
Harvest/Storage
How to Cut and Store Dried Flowers
Use dried hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:
- Cut the flower heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
- Remove leaves from stems, and hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
- When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
- To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted fabric dye.
How to Use Hydrangeas in a Bouquet
- Place the freshly cut hydrangea stems immediately into cold water to avoid wilting.
- Recut the woody stems at a slant under water. Remove lower leaves on the stems.
- Arrange the stems in a vase and place in a cool spot.
- Check the water in the vase daily and mist the blooms with water.
- Soak wilting blooms in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes to revive them.
Recommended Varieties
For a more detailed overview of the many types of hydrangeas, check out Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.
There are two main groups of hydrangeas:
Group 1: Plants that bloom on new growth (this year’s stems)
The following hydrangeas, which form their buds in early summer on new growth, will flower reliably each year, requiring no special care.
- Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)
- ‘Grandiflora’ is a big, old-fashioned, floppy variety, ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Moth’, and ‘Pee Wee’ fit the scale of small gardens. ‘Limelight’ produces cool-green flowers and grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet.
- Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
- Look for the cultivars H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘Annabelle’, which produce many large (up to 14 inches across), tight, symmetrical blooms in late summer.
Image: Lacecap hydrangea
Group 2: Plants that bloom on old growth (last year’s stems)
If you live in Zone 8 or warmer, choose plants from this group. Gardeners in cool climate zones will find many of them a challenge, because they set flower buds in the fall. Although hardy to Zones 4 and 5, the buds are prone to damage by an early frost in fall, a late frost in spring, or excessively cold temperatures when dormant in winter. This, along with untimely pruning, can result in inconsistent flowering or no flowering at all.
- Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- You can expect exceptional fall color from ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Snow Flake’, and ‘Alice’.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
- We love ‘All Summer Beauty’ (Mophead), which has profuse, dark blue flowers—turning more pink in soils with near neutral pH. If its buds are winter-killed, the plant will form new ones in spring and still bloom.
- ‘Nikko Blue’ (Mophead) is vigorous, with large, rounded, blue flowers.
- ‘Blue Wave’ (Lacecap) produces rich blue to mauve or lilac-blue to pink flowers.
- ‘Color Fantasy’ (Mophead) has reddish or deep purple flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. It grows to about 3 feet tall.
- Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata)
- Examples are ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’. In acidic soil, ‘Preziosa’ produces blossoms of an extraordinary blend of pale shades of blue, mauve, violet, and green.
- Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala ssp. Petiolaris)
- ‘Firefly’ is a newly-patented variety exhibiting variegated foliage.
For more about hydrangea varieties, see Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.
Wit & Wisdom
The name hydrangea is derived from the Greek words hydor meaning water and angeion meaning vessel, referring to the plant’s seed pods, which look like small water jugs.
In the language of flowers, hydrangeas symbolize gratitude for being understood, or frigidity and heartlessness. See more flower meanings.
Growing Hydrangeas
| Botanical Name | Hydrangea spp. |
|---|---|
| Plant Type | Shrub |
| Sun Exposure | Full Sun, Part Sun |
| Soil Type | Any |
| Soil pH | Acidic, Neutral, Neutral to Slightly Alkaline, Slightly Acidic to Neutral |
| Bloom Time | Summer, Fall |
| Flower Color | Blue, Green, Pink, Purple, Red, White |
| Hardiness Zones | 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 |
| Special Features |
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Reader Comments
Leave a Comment
Hydrangea
I was late getting cuttings of a hydrangea. They seem to root well but it is now Nov. 27 th. and they are still in their starter pots. They seem to be dying off. Should I have hardened them off sooner, meaning I should have rooted them earlier. I am in P.E.I. Canada, in a 5a zone. What can I do to save them or is it too late? Help!!!
Mop head hydrangeas
I have 3 and only one blooms. The 3 are all planted in the same area. They are all the same size and beautiful green plants. Why don’t the other two flower.?
Blooming hydrangeas
I have four plants which were planted from Easter flowers. They grow back every year (three years) but I only get one or two flowers on two of the plants. ( zone 5). The others have not bloomed. How can I get more flowers and on all the plants?
What to do
I have a beautiful pink hydrangea that I bought a couple of years ago. I planted it next to a white hydrangea that blooms profusely every spring but the pink one has only ever produced one head. It otherwise is doing very well. What am I doing wrong? I don't know whether to cut it back or leave it alone. Unfortunately, I lost the card that came with it telling what kind of hydrangea it is.
Growing hydrangeas
Can hydrangeas be grown in pots and brought inside during winter. I live in southern New Jersey.
potted hydrangeas
We tend to plant potted hydrangea in the garden as they prefer to be in the ground but you could grow indoors with the right steps. Pinch back the shoots no later than July. Keep the pots outdoors as long as possible in the fall, but bring indoors before a hard freeze. Allow the plant to retain its leaves until about November 1st. Then, pick off all the leaves by hand or put the plant in total darkness until all leaves drop naturally. The leafless plant must be vernalized (exposed to cool temperatures) in order to induce subsequent flowering. This involves keeping it at temperatures from 35 to 40 degrees F for about six weeks. During this time, the plant can be kept dry since it has no leaves. After the cooling period, move the plant to a sunny, cool room, with night temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. Water it well and fertilize about every two weeks. It should flower in about four months.
If you wish, you could then plant potted hydrangeas in the garden for years of enjoyment. Wait until the danger of frost has past and make sure to water the plant regularly until it is established in the garden.
Hydrangea color
My hydrangea started the season with large dark blue flowers It is a mop head and probably 10 + years old The flowers are no longer turning any color They are big and in good shape but no color Do you have any idea what may be causing this ?
blue hydrangea color
Nearly all mopheads considered to have the ability to change bloom color. The color is determined by aluminum availability, which in turn is based on the soil pH. When the soil/substrate pH is acidic (4.5 – 5.5), the color can be expected to be blue because aluminum is generally highly available in a low pH. When the soil/substrate pH ranges from 5.5 to 6.5, flowers may be pink, blue or lavender, or a mixture of pink and blue flowers may be present on the same plant. The flower color is not permanent. The color will ultimately be dependent on the soil pH of the landscape into which they are eventually planted.
Hydrangea
Thank you so much for your helpful reply.
white snowball hydrangeas in Florida
I live in Orlando, Florida (zone 9) and am wondering if white snowball hydrangeas from my father's home in Delaware will grow and thrive if I transplant them. They have bloomed prolifically for the past 40 years or more. Last fall they were cut back to the ground, but new little ones are coming up now (June). I am visiting, and would to take some back to Orlando with me.
hydrangea hardiness
Hi, Michelle. If the hydrangea is an ‘Annabelle’ snowball, then there is a good chance it will survive in zone 9.
Rhizomes Spread Uncontrollable
When we bought our house there was a very large, old hydrangea in the front flower bed. The rhizomes spread terribly and had overtaken the garden as well as growing underneath our sun porch. We decided to pull the plant out last summer and start over. I was recently gifted with a Hydrangea Mycrophylla. Will this variety do the same thing?
Hydrangeas
Nothing was said about when or if you can move a adult plant, I am moving my flower bed this year and I have been wondering when its safe to move my Hydrangea. Its about 4 years old. Do you have the answer for me?
Transplanting Hydrangeas
Transplanting is best done when the plant is dormant, so either in the early spring or in the fall. If you live in an area with harsh winters, spring is best.
Transplanting can also be done in the summer, but you will need to provide the plant with plenty of water and it is almost guaranteed to wilt, but should recover with time.
Plant zones
What zone is 39470 in
Planting Zones
You are in Zone 8b. See the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones map here: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/
Hydragenas
I live in So California, do these plants die off for the winter? I planted 3 plants and 1 seems to have died off. The other 2 still have some leaves but are looking bad.
So. Cal. hydrangeas
We live in Manhattan Beach and planted three 5 gallon hydrangeas years ago in partial sun. First problems showed up in a little time with wilted and stunted leaves/stems - looking really bad. I didn't know that hydrangeas (and azaleas and gardenias and fuchsias and others) do best in acidic soil - which is NOT Manhattan Beach. So I dug a large 6"-8" wide ditch around the hydrangeas to the bottom (and lower) of the root ball, and add an acid enhanced planting mix (that I can't find anymore, btw). That helped, and repeated monthly feeding with Miracid also helped. But the biggest gain was when I pruned back the stems severely last fall - now they are lusciously growing. I keep feeding Miracid monthly.
Hydrangea in Zone 5
Can i plant my hydrangea now in September?
We have had our first hard frost,and the plant has been outside since May. It has big leaves and pink flowers,thats all i know about the plant.
I have sandy soil .I would just plant it without taking anything off,and mulch with pine needles.
I purchased it last year from a grocery store,and kept it on a shelf in front of window, now its to big and heavy pot for that,could i plant it now ie keep it in my garage? Thank you from Wisconsin
plant in Sept?
We think that the best place for this plant is in the garage or basement for the winter. Occasionally give it a few spoonfuls of water.
In the spring, improve your soil with compost and peat moss. Check the pH (see above for the desirable range). Your sandy soil will let water run through it, leaving the plant to dry out in all likelihood).
No blossoms
I have had my hydrangeas for three years now and no blossoms. The plant it self grows very big and green. I don't know what to do.
no blossoms
Without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. Then there was this that I read in a recent Boston Globe edition: The question was similar to yours and the answer was, in sum, that some varieties are forced to flower by growers, shipped, then purchased by people in areas/communities where the plants would not normally flower anyway. Know at least that you are not alone in the dilemma.
HYDRANGEAS
HELP - i HAVE COME HOME FROM HOLIDAY TO FIND MY BEAUTIFUL HYDRANGEAS HAVE TAKEN OVER MY GARDEN!!!!!! CAN SOMEONE PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF IT IS SAFE TO CUT BACK SOME OF THE STEMS AT THIS TIME OF YEAR. WE ARE HOPING TO MOVE NEXT YEAR AND DESPERATELY WANT TO TAKE SOME OF MY HYDRANGEAS WITH ME - ANY HELP ON THAT PLEASE
pruning tips
Try this: https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/when-prune-differe...
You should be able to lift and move them.
Hydrageas
I have two plants that have not bloomed since first year. One beside them blooms fantastic. Any suggestions to get "lazy ones" back on track?
no blossoms
Rather like the writer two Qs up, without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. It’s a common dilemma.
Hydrangea look diseased
I have a row of hydrangea that may get more sunlight than needed. By August they usually look pretty dried out with the flowers brown and plant looking pretty sad. But this year almost all the leaves are gone and it looks like the plant is more than dry but diseased. I'm thinking I may need to remove the hydrangeas as they are getting to much sun. Do you think its too much sun or could it be a disease?
dry or diseased?
Being in the hot sun all day is probably taking its toll. Above (and below) we suggest that most hydrangeas do best in morning sun and afternoon shade/partial shade. You don’t mention water. Are they getting water? Lack of it would take a toll on any plant. Dig down with your hands/fingers and see how deep you have to go before you feel damp soil; that might be an indication of whether they are dry. As for disease, it’s hard to know from this vantage point.
My hydrangea in my garden is
My hydrangea in my garden is quite old but still produces a lot of white flowers every year however last year and this year the flowers turned brown and looked dead, what do you think this happened?
dead-looking flowers
Most of the times this happens it’s due to too hot sun, not enough shade and waaaay too little water. You should water deeply. It will not brig the brown flowers back but it will relieve the plant.
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