Growing Tomatoes

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Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
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Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

green_zebra_tomatoes_v_zaitsev_gettyimages_full_width.jpg
Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Start Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop; it’s common after rainfall or in humidity. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive.
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.

See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

roma_tomatoes_ben185_getty_images_full_width.jpg
Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

yellow_tomato_johnnyseeds_0_full_width.jpg
Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

black-krim-label_mighty_mato_full_width.jpg
Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

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Reader Comments

Leave a Comment

no Tomatoes

Submitted by Tammy Winkler on June 30, 2010 - 3:26pm

I have large tomatoes bushes but when the blossom comes on it drys up and dies with no tomatoe on the end What do I need to do?????

Tammy, I think we are in the

Submitted by Roberta on June 30, 2010 - 5:46pm

Tammy, I think we are in the same boat when it comes to raising tomatoes. I think I am going to take a chance on setting them out earlier next year, even before the last frost. We don't have much of a Spring here in the part of Texas I am in. Winter to Summer and that's about it. I heard and it's only hear-say, that if it stays above 72 degrees at night, the blossums would drop. I hope someone comes aboard and tells us what could be wrong with our Tomatoes.

Tomato Plants

Submitted by Roberta on June 29, 2010 - 11:19am

My tomatoe plants are beautiful but all my blossums disappear before the fruit sets. I have been sprinking sevin-dust over plants, to ward off any insects. I live in Texas and it's hot here. Could that be the culprit? They get enough water.

blossums

Submitted by dwhiteboy_672002 on May 21, 2011 - 5:28pm

I'm using Tomato & Peper Set on my tomato's and they are doing good, I've also heared that sugar water doe's well I don't know for sure.

Tomatoes

Submitted by Edith Delome on June 28, 2010 - 6:15pm

I have had the best tomatoe plants yet this year. But they won't get real red I have to pick them early so they won't get rotten. I have some sort of little flying bugs on the tomatoe themselves when I go out to work in the garden. I live i southeast TX can u help with this problem

Hi Edith, it sounds like it

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 30, 2010 - 9:42am

Hi Edith, it sounds like it may be too hot in southeast Texas! Once tomatoes begin to turn pink, bring them indoors to finish ripening (it sounds like you've already been doing this). The plant cannot carry out its normal functions in excessive heat. The bugs you described sound like aphids. See tips here: http://www.almanac.com/content/aphids

tomatoes cracking

Submitted by rcain on June 10, 2010 - 2:29pm

I live in Tucson. My Celebrity tomatoes are cracking. They are in raised beds and I water the same time every day with a drip hose. They get 4 hours of sun in the a.m. and 5 hours in the p.m. The rest of the day the sun screen shades them.
Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated.

Hi rcain, it sounds like you

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 10, 2010 - 3:19pm

Hi rcain, it sounds like you are taking good care of your tomatoes, but here are a few more tips to try: Add 2-4 inches of mulch around your plants. This will help provide uniform moisture throughout. Also, make sure you aren't over pruning. While 'Celebrity' is semi- crack resistant, next year, go for varieties that are crack resistant such as 'Avalanche' or 'Show Me'.

Thanks for the information.

Submitted by rcain on June 10, 2010 - 3:40pm

Thanks for the information. I will try it and see if it works and change varieties next year. My Stupice tomatoes are working out just fine.

Tomato Plant Question

Submitted by Jim50665 on June 9, 2010 - 10:09am

My tomato plants have healthy green leaves and robust growth. However there are very few blossoms or tomatoes set. How do I best encourage tomato growth rather than foliage growth? Plants have been fertilized with liquid seaweed (foliage), a liquid fertilizer and compost tea.

Hi Jim, Here are some tips to

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 9, 2010 - 11:48am

Hi Jim, Here are some tips to encourage tomatoes: Make sure you water adequately. The plant needs enough moisture to produce the fruit--which is mostly water itself! Make sure your plant is getting 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, but don't expose it to high temperatures for long periods. You may have over-fertilized with nitrogen. Nitrogen causes foliage growth, but does little to encourage fruit set. You can try pruning off a few of the leaves. Finally, make sure you have a variety that is adapted to your Zone. Good luck, Jim!

Too much nitrogen

Submitted by Garden Gal on January 21, 2013 - 11:29am

I would cut back on the nitrogen for a bit.
Nitrogen gives more leaves.

spotty tomatoes

Submitted by nighttrain50 on May 28, 2010 - 8:38am

im trying "hanging plants" for the first time. i used a good potting soil and it keeps drying out to fast. i re-water and the fruit has brown spots. where am i going WRONG on this

adding calcium

Submitted by Cindy Dufrene on April 16, 2010 - 10:14am

I wonder if placing one Tum's tablet under each tomato would do the trick? They are calcium tablets.

adding calcium

Submitted by hkvaughn51 on May 31, 2010 - 12:15pm

I have a book that says take eggs shells (cleaned)break up and put into soil around tomatoes. Another suggestion was to put eggshells in a water bottle or can and let set overnight and then use water on certain plants. I've tried the egg shells in the soil when planting. But not sure if helps yet; will see.

Soil acidity

Submitted by David Gray on April 15, 2010 - 9:32am

My soil is pretty base (7.0 +), what is the most natural way to make it more acidic especially with tomatoes?

Soil acidity...

Submitted by kmsgirl30 on April 15, 2010 - 12:08pm

Espoma Organic Traditions Soil Acidifier
http://www.espoma.com/p_consum...
It is carried at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

Natural Acidity

Submitted by Garden Gal on January 21, 2013 - 11:32am

You can add leaf mulch or pine needles that have fallen from the trees.

pH Tomatoes

Submitted by Ptoe on April 15, 2010 - 7:39am

Simply stating "acidic" doesn't help the average gardener very much.
Tomatoes like a somewhat acidic soil: 6:2 - 6:8 w/6:5 probably the best, they do adapt though to some variance.

Tomatoes and eggs

Submitted by Nancy Capshaw on March 18, 2010 - 2:43pm

Iv'e heard if you put a raw egg in the hole before you plant tomatoes It will help them. Is this true? Thanks Nancy

re: tomatoes and eggs

Submitted by Thymey on March 20, 2010 - 2:55pm

I would think that it would be beneficial if your soil is in need of nitrates and calcium; like adding a whole fish under a three sister's plot?

adding calcium

Submitted by Cindy Dufrene on April 16, 2010 - 10:16am

I wonder if adding a Tums tablet under each plant would help with the calcium? They break down easily and are basically all calcium.

Tums

Submitted by Kathy Keith on April 25, 2010 - 3:19pm

Any Calcium based antacid will work. I have had to resort to this method a couple of times. I also found out you have to re-apply in a couple of weeks. Had not heard of the egg shells untill today. Makes sense though. I will be using that idea this year.

I'm not sure about the raw

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 15, 2010 - 11:43am

I'm not sure about the raw egg, but Thymey's right about the fish.
The Native American tribes thought it was a great idea to bury fish with their corn seeds; they thought it helped grow healthier plants. Fish is a great fertilizer, and it probably works for tomato plants, too.

Tomatoes and Eggs...

Submitted by kmsgirl30 on April 15, 2010 - 12:11pm

Crushed up egg shells in the planting holes (approx. 2 tbls.) is good for blossom end rot, which is caused by lack of calcium.

Calcium

Submitted by Garden Gal on January 21, 2013 - 11:37am

One could add crushed Oyster shell (fed to chickens to help harden shells on eggs). But if your calcium is locked up in the soil due to an imbalance this won't help. You could try epsom salts to add magnesium first. There must be magnesium in the soil to help the plants take up calcium.

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Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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