Growing Tomatoes

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Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
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Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

About Tomatoes

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

green_zebra_tomatoes_v_zaitsev_gettyimages_full_width.jpg
Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Starting Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop. In July, the risks of blight increase, due to the combination of high humidity and warm days and nights. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive. The best defense for outdoor tomatoes is good ventilation and stripping off the lower leaves as the fruits develop helps this, as well as helping the ripening tomatoes have maximum exposure to sun. 
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. Unfortunately, once your tomato has late blight, there’s really no solution. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
  • See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

roma_tomatoes_ben185_getty_images_full_width.jpg
Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

yellow_tomato_johnnyseeds_0_full_width.jpg
Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

black-krim-label_mighty_mato_full_width.jpg
Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

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Reader Comments

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tomato seeds

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on January 14, 2020 - 3:55pm

It seems that this hybrid tomato was featured in catalogs back in 2012 and 2013 but mostly discontinued for some reason.
We see that a UC Davis cooperative extension adviser recommended this tomato variety for CA zones: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=7018
Here’s the author’s contact info if you wish to ask her about the variety: http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/?facultyid=767
Sorry we couldn’t be of more help. Hope this points you in the right direction.

Very good post. I am going

Submitted by marcelo193226475 on December 31, 2019 - 3:04am

Very good post. I am going through some of these issues as well..

Tomato die fro the bottom up

Submitted by Jim on October 28, 2019 - 8:50am

We live in coastal SC and our soil is very fine sandy soil. Our tomatoes grow to full size and have tomatoes on them when they start turning yellow at the bottom and start dying from the bottom up. cannot figure out what the problem is.

yellow at the bottom

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on October 28, 2019 - 4:57pm

Hi, there. It sounds like it could be blossom end rot. See pics here and advice (basically, your soil needs to be amended, but read on): https://www.almanac.com/pest/blossom-end-rot

Hope this helps. Let us know if it seems like your problem. Thanks!

Not blossom end rot

Submitted by Jim on October 28, 2019 - 5:30pm

Definitely not blossom end rot. Tomatoes are fine, the plants turn yellow from the bottom up, wilt and die.

yellowing...

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on October 30, 2019 - 3:02pm

Well, that’s the good news. Because a picture is worth — well, you know —I am going to suggest you look here to see if these plant pics look like yours: https://ucanr.edu/sites/UrbanAg/files/263164.pdf

If that yields no clue, try this: http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomLeaf/TomLea...

and that’s all we’ve got at this time. You might inquire at your local cooperative extension, found here https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services

We hope something helps. Let us know what it is, please.

tomatoes

Submitted by Dave Duke on August 10, 2019 - 6:59pm

My plants are growing like crazy,But they getting so tall.6foot plus. if I don't tied them to the
stake they fan out.4 ft across. It don't matter if I grow by the stakes the still get 6 ft.If I grow
in a cage and they still grow 6ft and try to fan out over the cage.I have put stakes in the cage
and they grow even taller.And have seen tomatoes all long the stem and they are still growing with new blooms on top of these long stems.Doing great here in Kansas

Tomatoe Questions

Submitted by Brenda on July 22, 2019 - 6:01pm

The sun is scorching my tomatoes also I'm getting bad spots on the outside, because of this I have decided to go ahead & pick before the tops turn, the base of the tomatoes is orange to red they have been dusted with 7 dust once. Is it best to wash now or wait till I'm ready to eat & the tops have turned red, no bad spots on these they are beautiful & I don't want to loose them. Thanks for your help Brenda

early harvest

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 23, 2019 - 2:58pm

Hi there. There are two schools of thought on whether to wash or not. Some gardeners wash their just-picked tomatoes in water, rub the skin gently to remove dirt etc., rinse, and then dry them carefully with a paper towel. This helps to remove pathogens on the surface of the tomato. Other gardeners prefer not to wash until just before eating the tomatoes, because the water may encourage disease if it is left on the tomato or gets inside via the stem scar or any wound or crack. There is also the slight risk of causing injury to the fruit when washing it. Whichever method you choose, avoid ripening tomatoes in direct sunlight, which can also encourage disease. Refrigeration, on the other hand, can ruin flavor. Room temperature (above 55 F) is best; stored in a single layer (no stacking).

Fully grown plant and tomatoes

Submitted by Neal Hanchey on July 17, 2019 - 3:48pm

tomatoes are still green. When I cut tomatoes in half they are green throughout. Very hard

Green Tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 18, 2019 - 1:30pm

Make sure the plant is getting enough sun and water. Other than that, more time is what’s needed!

Young struggling plant with green tomaotes

Submitted by Hannah Bunek on June 25, 2019 - 7:27pm

Hello,
I bought a young New Girl tomato plant at a farmers' market. I kept it in its little pot for a few days, and it began to grow tomatoes. I then transplanted it to my garden. It hasn't seemed to grow much and is very dry by the end of the day. Should I pluck the tomatoes off to let the plant grow more instead of putting its energy into growing the tomatoes?

Reply to your question regarding your tomato plant

Submitted by Melissa Neal on July 22, 2019 - 4:35pm

I am fairly new to gardening but what I have learned through my own experience and research is that before transplanting a tomato plant pick off the all the tomatos, flowers and the bottom leaves. This has helped my plants tremendously! I left a tomato on one plant just to see what happened and it stunted the growth of the whole entire plant. My plant nor my tomato would grow, so after a few weeks I plucked the tomato off and it's finally growing now. On 22 of my plants that I have on my porch I had to pluck off leaves due to leaf spot and and the new leaves are growing back bigger and brighter. My garden plants have grown so tall and bushy and need plucked again. When you pluck them they do look a little sad and I was very worried that what I was told would be the end of my plants, but it wasn't! It just took time for them to grow better. Also, anytime your leaves start to discolor or get holes im them then pluck them off. The plant will spend way too much time trying to correct bad leaves that it takes away from the rest of the plant which in turn does not allow it to grow properly. I hope this helps you and that your plant starts growing good! Good luck!

Tomatoes plant shock

Submitted by Sheila on May 19, 2019 - 2:37pm

I planted my flowering plant in a garden box. It was cool the first couple of nights so I covered it with a sheet but this morning when I removed the sheet all the leaves were wilted. Will it come back or have I lost it.

lost it?

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 20, 2019 - 4:27pm

You do not provide many details—where you are, how cool, even more about the sheet (a bed sheet? cotton or something else? these can be heavy on a plant of any size)—but if the plant is still standing and the leaves have some natural green color (not black), you might be ok. Black leaves are a sign of frost bite and almost always certain death of a tomato plant. Give it a couple of (warm) days and see if it appears to have growth. If there is no change in a week or so it is probably time to start again…when the weather warms up consistently.

tomato plants

Submitted by Rick Miras on July 8, 2019 - 4:05pm

top leaves curled and wilted on some plants and some plants the tomatoes will be curled in at the top and cracked some others will be rotted on the bottom in a circle

Tomato plants

Submitted by Tom Amann on July 9, 2019 - 2:17pm

Top leaves are wilted on some of my tomato plants. ????

fusarium wilt tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 11, 2019 - 9:29am

It sounds like a case of fusarium wilt. You will need to pull up and discard (but do not compost!) your tomato plants ASAP. It will be a good idea to sterilize any garden equipment you used in the area and with the plants. The disease can survive in the soil so do not plant potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, or peppers in that area of your garden. You can try disease resistant varieties of tomatoes if this is your only space for growing. Both ‘Celebrity’ and ‘Big Beef’ are resistant to fusarium wilt.

Maters

Submitted by Jeff State on May 14, 2019 - 7:11pm

Make sure you are planting Heirlooms. Forget the hybrids.

My plants grow, but arent producing fruit.

Submitted by Roxanne on May 14, 2019 - 1:54pm

My tomato plants seem to do well. they grow tall, but dont produce any fruit. Been in ground since March and no blooms. They get really tall, taller than me and I'm 5'7.

no fruit

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 20, 2019 - 4:36pm

Are there pollinators around? Are the plants in a breezy environment? Sometimes a bit of wind, even shaking, will help. Did you fertilize? Potassium (or potash) will encourage flowering and then fruiting. Nitrogen, on the other hand, encourages foliage. Also, too high temps and even high humidity will slow or stop fruit production. Does anything here sound like something that might be the solution?

Tomatoes

Submitted by Hurdle on July 5, 2019 - 10:15am

More plants very little tomatoes.

Pee on your Tomato Plants

Submitted by Mark on May 14, 2019 - 11:51am

Human urine works remarkably well as a fertilizer for tomatoes. Plants fertilized with a mixture of stored human urine and wood ash produces 4.2 times more fruit than plants without pee. Healthy human urine is rich in nutrients like nitrogen, potassium, and phosphate, all key ingredients for healthy plants.

New to Gardening

Submitted by Linda on March 22, 2019 - 11:21am

What a wealth of information, guides and how-to’s. Thank you!!

appreciation

Submitted by ebong dan on March 12, 2019 - 7:33am

i just want to give a word of thanks because the site was so useful to me and it has helped me in my research

Best tomato seed

Submitted by Saeed on October 14, 2018 - 11:35am

Hi.
I looking for the best tomato seed for my farm. I loking for Comodoro tomato seed.whats your opinion about my selection?
We have cool spring and hot , dry summer.
Thanks.

tiny brown things that pop up from tomato on window sill

Submitted by Terry Stockelman on September 8, 2018 - 12:50pm

We have noticed these tiny brown things that kinda pop out of tomato as it sits on window sill. Does anyone know what they are? They are not bugs. Definitely not alive. Thanks

tomato spots

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 10, 2018 - 4:40pm

It is possible, if these are not entrance holes for insects, that they are symptoms of a disease. There are several that can cause spotting on the fruit, but one that comes to mind in particular is bacterial speck, which can appear as small raised spots on the fruit (sometimes with a yellow halo around them), which can sort of look like freckles. In the early stages, this disease only affects the skin, so you can peel it off before eating. More advanced stages will travel deeper into the tomato, so you might want to cut any discolored parts out, although a tomato affected with bacterial speck is still safe to eat. This disease likes moisture to grow, so make sure to store you fruit in a dry location. Bacterial spot and bacterial canker may be similar on fruit, but the halo is white rather than yellow (bacterial spot halos disappear in later stages). Green fruit are most susceptible to the introduction of these diseases (which also affect the leaves). Hope this helps!

Keeping plants.

Submitted by Amanda on September 6, 2018 - 8:53pm

This is a true beginner's question, but is it possible to cut a plant down to the stemm and regrow it again next year? I have a cherry tomato plant in a container by my window, and it has a pretty good root system going. However it's slowly dying as it gets less and less sun, so I was wondering if I could cut it to the stem (like a raspberry plant) and have it grow back, or do I have to plant new seeds come spring?

Tomatoes as Perennials

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 7, 2018 - 9:47am

Don’t worry, it’s a good question! In their native tropical habitat, tomatoes are perennial plants, meaning that they live and produce for more than one season. In North America, tomatoes are treated as annuals because it’s hard to keep them alive through the cold part of the year (unless you have a greenhouse). If you were to cut the plant back to the roots, it’s unlikely that the roots would survive to spring, as tomatoes aren’t designed to go into that kind of dormancy. 

If you have your heart set on keeping this plant, you could try bringing it inside your home, though you’ll need to keep it above 65°F at all times (the warmer, the better) and it will need as much light as you can give it. A strong grow light will most likely be needed to keep it from withering away if you can’t give it full sun.

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Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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