Growing Tomatoes

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Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
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Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

About Tomatoes

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

green_zebra_tomatoes_v_zaitsev_gettyimages_full_width.jpg
Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Starting Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop. In July, the risks of blight increase, due to the combination of high humidity and warm days and nights. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive. The best defense for outdoor tomatoes is good ventilation and stripping off the lower leaves as the fruits develop helps this, as well as helping the ripening tomatoes have maximum exposure to sun. 
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. Unfortunately, once your tomato has late blight, there’s really no solution. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
  • See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

roma_tomatoes_ben185_getty_images_full_width.jpg
Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

yellow_tomato_johnnyseeds_0_full_width.jpg
Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

black-krim-label_mighty_mato_full_width.jpg
Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

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Reader Comments

Leave a Comment

Harvesting Tomato in Green Color

Submitted by Hyacinth on August 6, 2018 - 12:49am

Is it possible to ripen the tomato when it is harvested in green color?

Asking for help from well wishers especially tomatto growers

Submitted by Elvis gardner on August 3, 2019 - 12:19pm

Am writing from southern part of Africa Zambia in particular. I developed interest in tomato growing but our area does not really support this type of farming it is sandy and very hot. please am asking from well wishers to help me with a green house. Thanks in advance

about tomatoes

Submitted by yash on July 26, 2018 - 1:11am

you have written very well I appreciate your blog about a tomato. Its very helpful.

damaged tomato plants

Submitted by Debra K on June 24, 2018 - 3:42pm

I have removed the hornworms from my plants but they have munched away. Just wondered if I should trim the branches off? Or will the plants recover.

Damaged by Hornworms

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 26, 2018 - 4:01pm

Leave the branches; they could still put out flowers and fruit.

Broken Tomato Plants

Submitted by Gail S. on June 15, 2018 - 12:49pm

I was given a tomato plant when school closed. It was about 5ft tall with a few leaves at the top, in the middle and at the bottom of the stem.
I broke it into 3 pieces, making breaks at joints. I was told, that because I broke the plant, it will grow but not produce tomatoes.
Is this true? There are plenty of blooms...
Thank you for your thoughts on this!
Gail

Tomato Plants

Submitted by Ann Fore on June 1, 2018 - 1:05pm

Why is my tomato plant not producing blossoms?

no tomato blossoms

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 8, 2018 - 10:03am

If no flowers form at all, then it could be that the plant received too much nitrogen, which encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowering. Also check whether the plants are getting enough sun; they should receive about 8 to 10 hours of direct sunlight. Be sure that the plant is getting enough water–too little can deter flowering. If flowers form but soon drop off, that could be due to high daytime temperatures. Hope this helps!

Harvesting tomatoes

Submitted by AB on June 10, 2018 - 10:32am

Hi,
I read your article but still have no idea how to harvest the tomatoes. Maybe a novice question, but should I cut the stem/individual vine with the tomatoes on it or should I pull each tomato off the vine? When I buy tomatoes from the store, the package sometimes has the vine and the tomatoes still attached; other times the tomatoes are just loose. Any advice on how I should remove the tomatoes from my plant?

Thanks,
Andy

Harvesting Tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 13, 2018 - 4:02pm

When tomatoes are fully matured and ready to be harvested, they will fall right off the vine without much effort at all. Simply give them a little tug and twist and they’ll let go if they’re ready.

If they’re not quite ripe, but you’d still like to harvest (because of impending bad weather, pests, etc.), then you should leave a bit of the stem on the fruit in order to encourage them to finish ripening. The tomatoes on the vine that you see at the store are likely harvested before they’re fully ripe so that they don’t go bad in transit.

Growing tomatoes

Submitted by Mike Hardy on May 24, 2018 - 11:19am

Hi, you mention water well and water for a few days. No one really explains the correct way to plant. The tomatoes or other vegetable plants should be watered well by watering the hole before the plant is put in and covered up. Once the plant is covered and watered most of the water runs off. If you fill the hole with water and cover the plant will establish well and not need any for at least two weeks.

Watering tomatoes

Submitted by Ruth on May 10, 2018 - 11:21pm

Your article says water tomatoes with 2 inches of water consistantly. How often should I water, once a week, 2x a week, more? What do you mean by 2 inches of water? I am trying to grow one plant in a pot in Northern California. It gets plenty of sun, but doesn't rain in the summer, so am concerned about the amount of water it gets.

watering tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 11, 2018 - 11:27am

Hi there! When we say 2 inches of water per week, that is the total amount that the ground receives during that time. An easy way to measure this, and monitor how much you are giving your plants, is to place an empty (clean) tuna can near your plants. The water from rain, hose, watering can, or irrigation system will collect there, and you can take a ruler and measure the depth of the water over time (taking into consideration evaporation on a hot day). Especially while tomatoes establish, water deeply about three times per week unless it rains. Fluctuations in water can lead to blossom end-rot and cracks in fruit. On the other hand, cutting back on water a little when the fruit is close to ripe can enhance flavor. Self-watering containers help keep moisture consistent, as does mulch.

For more information, you might like the following article:
https://www.almanac.com/content/when-water-your-vegetable-garden-watering-chart

 

watering tomatos

Submitted by gary brown on July 23, 2018 - 11:19pm

Any fool that says tomatos or any other plant takes water into their system at a certain time of day is a total moron! Has anyone ever seen it rain exactly at a particular time of day and repeat it over and over? The answer is no ,, it rains when it rains and all plants take water as they get it ,, which has been going on for millions of years ,,, watering any time of day or night is correct and keep it up when there is no rain for extended periods of time. Let your plants tell you if they need water ,,, they will not look right when dehydrated even a little! Never use city water since it has clorine in it ,, this is very bad for lawns and gardens.

Planting directional

Submitted by Jada Kraft on May 1, 2018 - 12:35am

This might seem like a dumb question but does it matter if plants are planted north to south or east to west?

Tomato Directions

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 1, 2018 - 4:42pm

There are no dumb questions when it comes to gardening! Generally, it’s best to plant in rows that go north-south. This way, the plants won’t block each other from getting morning, afternoon, and evening sun. 

It’s also recommended to plant your shortest plant varieties in the southern part of the row and the tallest in the north, so the tall plants won’t shade out the short ones. However, if you’re growing all of one variety, it doesn’t matter, as they should all reach roughly the same height.

Diseases

Submitted by Musaazi Richard on April 27, 2018 - 5:35am

How do I fight certain infections that attack tomatoes

tomatoes/peppers

Submitted by Donna Palermo on April 24, 2018 - 10:05am

I've been told that you shouldn't plant tomatoes and peppers close to each other. Is that true? Also, I've been told not to plant hot peppers next to sweet peppers as they can cross-pollinate causing the sweet peppers to become hot. Is there truth to this?

What kind of spray should I buy for tomatoes.

Submitted by A. Jenkins on May 22, 2018 - 12:53pm

My husband said they get cut worms etc. which will kill them.

All that you have told are

Submitted by Onencan Alexander on November 29, 2018 - 6:49am

All that you have told are true but they can be avoided just follow the correct procedures.

Started too soon!

Submitted by Bob on April 19, 2018 - 7:01am

I started germinating my tomatoes too early and we've had a run of cool weather (I'm in SE NY). So I'm looking at seedlings that are too big for their containers but can't put them out for a week to 10 days and they are showing some signs of stress (some wilting). Is it a bad idea to repot given that they are going out in 10 days or less? I use grow lights....is there another way to relieve that stress instead of repotting?

Thanks

repotting tomato plants

Submitted by Nichole on April 19, 2018 - 10:39pm

Many people repot tomato plants several times before transplanting outside to help build stong roots. You would be fine to replant them into bigger pots.

blossom rot on my tomatoes

Submitted by Barbara C Smith on September 1, 2017 - 6:22pm

I have a Roma plant which producing a lot of fruit but some of the fruit has developed blossom rot . I remove the affected fruit every day and wonder if the unaffected fruit is safe to eat, I would hate to throw the good fruit away it is a firm,nice shape and red,please tell me it is safe to eat.

blossom rot remains...

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 6, 2017 - 12:21pm

We would cut off the blossom rot and use the tomato in whatever way you would, sure.

While you’re enjoying that succulent tomato, plan now to avoid blossom rot again. Read here: https://www.almanac.com/pest/blossom-end-rot

Vegetable?

Submitted by Sarah on August 17, 2017 - 12:19am

Tomatoes aren't a vegetable they are a fruit!!!!

Tomato

Submitted by RENE A ARANA on August 2, 2017 - 7:44pm

With all due respect, the tomato is a fruit, not a vegetable.

Golden Pear Tomatoes Going Dormant

Submitted by Brian on July 25, 2017 - 1:24pm

Last year (2016) I planted golden pear tomatoes for the very first time. I started them from seeds in mid-march. Early Fall the golden pear tomatoes started producing/well. This year I started them from seeds in house at the end of January with all my other plants. After the last frost, I planted them outside.
I live in Nashville TN, and I container garden. All is going well with my 70 plants (a variety of tomatoes and peppers) with the exception of my golden pears. Two weeks ago my pear tomatoes plants are five feet tall with the first tomatoes starting to ripen and more flowers appearing. Then the heat wave hits. The heat index of 105 degrees hits Nashville. My Golden pears wilt and have started to die. I have cut off all the dead leaves trying to save the plants. My plants are in five gallon container and I water them twice a day. I do not allow them to dry out.
I have heard golden pear tomatoes go dormant in extreme July/August heat. Is this true? If it is true should I pinch all the remaining flowers and tomatoes off and hope the plant will rebound will a fall crop? Do you know of any websites dedicated to these plants? Any help will be appreciated.
Brian

tomatoes in hot weather

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 26, 2017 - 4:34pm

Although there are some heat-tolerant varieties, tomatoes in general do not like temperatures over 90F. They may drop flowers or have other pollination/fruiting problems. It helps to relieve the stress of the plant by providing some shade during the hottest part of the day, such as with shade cloth. It is good that you have kept up with the watering–they need extra water to help them survive the heat. However, it is very important that the water is draining properly, or it will encourage rot. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer. Picking fruit can also help the plant redirect its energies to maintaining itself. Heat stress can make the plants more susceptible to disease, signs of which can sometimes be wilting. Check for spots on the leaves, discoloration within the stem, etc. If it is not a disease, it is possible that your plant might recover for a fall crop, but it is hard to predict. Good luck!

buds & type

Submitted by Curtis McKinley on July 20, 2017 - 1:47pm

I've read each of the blog/"garden journal" and the tomatoes page concerning care/gardening/soil. It doesn't address my problem of having buds/blossoms, but they don't pollinated. Also, they are only about 2' tall, how I determine whether they are indeterminate or determinate at this stage?

flowers but no fruit

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 21, 2017 - 12:18pm

If you have lots of tomato flowers but no fruit, it might be caused by inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too hot/cold (temps above about 75F night/90 day), or not enough pollinators. Too low humidity can also affect pollination; ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is too low, misting the plant can help pollen to stick. As to indeterminate/determinate: If you don’t know the name of the variety, take a look at the flower clusters. Determinate varieties form flower clusters at the tips of the shoots (a flower cluster will also eventually form at the top of the plant, at which point plant growth stops). Indeterminate plants form flower clusters along the stem.

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Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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