Growing Tomatoes

SPONSORED

Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
Helios4Eos/Getty Images

Share: 

Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

About Tomatoes

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

green_zebra_tomatoes_v_zaitsev_gettyimages_full_width.jpg
Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Starting Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop. In July, the risks of blight increase, due to the combination of high humidity and warm days and nights. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive. The best defense for outdoor tomatoes is good ventilation and stripping off the lower leaves as the fruits develop helps this, as well as helping the ripening tomatoes have maximum exposure to sun. 
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. Unfortunately, once your tomato has late blight, there’s really no solution. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
  • See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

roma_tomatoes_ben185_getty_images_full_width.jpg
Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

yellow_tomato_johnnyseeds_0_full_width.jpg
Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

black-krim-label_mighty_mato_full_width.jpg
Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

Vegetable Gardener's Handbook

vegetable_gardeners_handbook_spring_ad.png

What do you want to read next?

Reader Comments

Leave a Comment

tomato plant leaves turn yellow

Submitted by Barbara Lang on July 19, 2016 - 6:38pm

What would make the plant leaves turn yellow?

Yellow Leaves on Tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 20, 2016 - 3:39pm

Hi Barbara,

Yellow or “chlorotic” leaves on tomato plants is most commonly a sign of a nutrient deficiency. The only way to know for sure is to have your soil tested by your local Cooperative Extension agency.

Tomatoes

Submitted by Patty Hartigan on June 21, 2016 - 5:19pm

Plants are in 5 gallon buckets on deck and small tomatoe growths already but Squirrels and birds pecking at them...Anything I can do to prevent this from happening?

squirrel- and bird-proofing tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 24, 2016 - 9:10am

Bird-netting placed around the tomatoes (but not resting on them) will help to prevent birds from pecking. You can attach the netting to a homemade wooden frame shaped like a cube. Squirrels can sometimes chew through the netting–in that case, construct a cage with chicken wire. Make the cage light enough, though, so that you can easily lift it (or have an access panel) when you need to tend to your plants. As for size, allow for the growth of the tomato plant – indeterminate tomatoes can grow quite large. Hope this helps!

tomatoes

Submitted by Maggie Owens on June 15, 2016 - 2:50pm

I live in a suburb of Los Angeles California. I'm late in growing my vegetables this year but I was wondering if I could still plant tomato plants.

planting tomatoes late

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 17, 2016 - 9:56am

Some people plant tomatoes in the Los Angeles area in early June, although tomatoes may not produce as much fruit if temperatures are higher than 90F (blossoms drop). You may get tomatoes late summer, though, if temperatures behave. See the planting calendar below and put in your location for a recommended planting schedule:

https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar

Tomatoes not turning red

Submitted by RSmith on June 14, 2016 - 5:46pm

I live in the deep south, tomato plants are for heat in this area. Plants are loaded with tomatoes, good size but they are not turning red. Previous years the tomatoes have turned red by now. I don't know what to do.

Tomatoes Not Turning Red

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 15, 2016 - 1:41pm

It could be that the soil temperature is not optimal (below 80 degrees F); if hotter, the plant puts energy into root development, which deters ripening. Try removing some of the smaller tomatoes–that will put less stress on the plant and might help speed up the ripening process.

 

Growing tomatoes under insect cloth

Submitted by Kristin Thompson on May 21, 2016 - 2:46pm

I've grown tomatoes in large pots for years, with great success. Live in Albuquerque, NM; lots of sun; very low humidity. The last 2 years, I've had disastrous crops - problems w/bugs, end rot, curly leaf - you name it. Bought new pots, all new potting soil (always), bought tomatoes from Connecticut to try to not have local pests to start. The county extension experimented with 'row cloth' and grew 70% more tomatoes. So, I've covered each plant with very lightweight 'row cloth' - plants are growing very nicely, and I already have a few tomatoes on one plant. Dumb question - do I need to uncover plants for a period each day or are the plants what is called self-pollinating? I've had past success without knowing what really made it work, other than sun, food and water! Thanks so much!

Tomatoes are “self

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 24, 2016 - 2:58pm

Tomatoes are “self-pollinating” plants. Each flower has both a stamen and a stigma (male and female parts). Tomatoes don’t need pollinators to bear fruit but the plants do need help to release the pollen. Wind can shake the pollen loose or you can shake the plants gently by hand. 

Blooms steam turning yellow and falling off

Submitted by Virginia Willis on May 12, 2016 - 10:17am

I'm not sure what is happening. Or the cause of it. After the bloom opens and then the bloom ready to form the tomato the steam at the head if the bloom turns yellow and then black then falls off.

blossom drop

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 12, 2016 - 4:43pm

Tomato blossoms may drop prematurely for several reasons. These include if the plant is, over several days, subjected to high daytime temperatures over 85, or nighttime temps over 70 or below 55. Low or high humidity may also cause it. These conditions all affect pollination. Other factors: lack of pollinators, or too much or too little nitrogen. Diseases or not enough water might also create the problem.

possible tomato disease?

Submitted by liz rhodes on April 28, 2016 - 11:22am

I live in South Texas (San Antonio). I am trying several varieties of tomatoes in containers. I have one patio tomato one Cherokee purple and one other; all my tomatoes have all gotten a large crack in the main stem of the plant. I cant seem to find any information on this. A friend told me it was probably a disease and to throw them out but they are all bearing fruit but I hate to toss them out if I don't need to! Thank you for any tomato tips.

any siggestions/ideas?

split, or cracked, stem

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 29, 2016 - 2:00pm

This is a tough one, and we went outside for guidance. It could be a few things and none sound good, unfortunately; here’s what we found (click through)

• https://agdev.anr.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=2164

• look really closely here: http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomWlt/TomWilt...

• maybe this: https://extension.umd.edu/growit/fusarium-wilt-tomato-vegetables

We hope this helps—

want to learn more

Submitted by EMMANUEL MOONGA on March 18, 2016 - 7:08am

THANKS ALOT FOR THE INFORMATION AND KNOWLEDGE I HAVE GAINED FROM YOUR SITE.
I WILL BE VERY HAPPY IF YOU COULD RECOMMEND GOOD BOOKS TO READ FOR A HOPEFUL SMALL SCALL FARMER.

Compatible growing companions

Submitted by Ron Antos on February 17, 2016 - 10:52am

What can you grow to next to tomatoes and what should you not plant next to them??

companions to tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on February 22, 2016 - 1:26pm

You are referring to “companion plants”—things that grow well together. We compiled a list of the 10 most common/popular vegetables and their “friends” and foes” here: http://www.almanac.com/content/plant-companions-list-ten-common-vegetables You will certainly find tomatoes on the list; it’s probably the number one most popular plant!

Pls understand that companion plants are traditionally favorable to success but there are other factors that can put the kibosh on even the best efforts: Make sure your soil is the proper pH and is suitably composted. Plant your tomatoes in sun and water as needed. Tomato horn worms seem to resist the best companions, so keep an eye out for these finger-size (at maturity) green worms or they will destroy your crop. (Drown ‘em, of you find ‘em.)

Best wishes for a fabulous harvest!

 

 

Growing plants in containers

Submitted by ken on January 6, 2016 - 12:42pm

If I plant veggies in pots, can I plant them outside at the time I should be planting them inside, if I bring them in every night?

inside out

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on January 6, 2016 - 3:23pm

You do not indicate specific conditions or locale, but in general, we would not recommend it. Seeds need TLC in order to sprout and become seedlings. These are tender times best passed in a caring and safe envonment, protected from too much sun, wind, rain, or the errant shoe that just might knock over the pot. Later, when the seedlings have established some size and stand on their own, you should put them out or a few hours per day (depending on conditions) to ease them into the outdoors. Eventually, when soil and air temps are suitable, you can leave them out—but not untended.

Tomato imports

Submitted by angel spiteri on December 2, 2015 - 8:14am

Apart from growing tomato's do you also import them ?

Be sure to have an accurate

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 16, 2015 - 10:03am

Be sure to have an accurate soil test done to determine exactly what your pH level is and how much you need to lower it. Many vegetables do just fine with soil as sweet as 7.5. If you live where limestone in the soil is constantly dissolving and raising pH, try applying elemental sulfur. It works best when the soil is warm but still is a slow fix, taking months to have any effect. It is a process that should not be rushed. Apply it 2-3 times over the season 6-8 weeks apart, testing between applications to be sure you don't go overboard. To acidify a small area, try watering with leftover coffee diluted 50% with water. Acidic mulches like shredded pine bark, pine needles, or peat moss can slowly lower pH over time. Let your soil test be your guide.

how do I lower my soil pH to

Submitted by MINENHLE on September 15, 2015 - 9:36am

how do I lower my soil pH to favour the growth of my tomatoes ?

I just finished cleaning 4

Submitted by E. Schultz on September 12, 2015 - 2:49pm

I just finished cleaning 4 Bushels of tomatoes for canning. Can the seeds form these tomatoes be used for re-growing next year, if so what do I have to do? I also discarded the seeds from early canning into an old flower bed and covered them with soil, will these turn into tomato plants?

Appreciate your help.

ESF Shelton CT

In many cases, the seeds will

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 14, 2015 - 12:35pm

In many cases, the seeds will be viable, and you can grow tomatoes the next year. However, if your seeds came from a hybrid variety, they will likely not produce fruit of the same type as the mother plant (they may have certain characteristics that differ, such as taste, size, color, resistance). Some seeds may even be sterile. To have seeds come true (be the same as the original plant), then you need to save from open-pollinated or heirloom varieties. For more information about this, the basics of seed saving, as well as specific directions on how to prepare and save seeds for tomatoes, you might be interested in the following.
http://www.almanac.com/content...

(video)
http://www.almanac.com/video/s...

http://www.almanac.com/content...

This is the first time I have

Submitted by Mamanorton on August 22, 2015 - 10:18am

This is the first time I have ever tried to grow anything. I started with a small starter kit from dollar general. lol. I got two plants out of it. (for me i was shocked I got anything out of it, lol) I have watched it bloom and get big and have become very proud of my efforts. My one plant has become taller than I am at 5'3" which i was very surprised at, my neighbors are lower to the ground and bushier. I had a cage around mine but now my neighbor helped put metal stakes and twine around it to help hold it up and keep the top which has become quite heavy from breaking off. I am very excited to say that just a few days ago some of the very first tomatoes to bloom have now begun to ripen and turn. My 6 yo daughter noticed first and got excited. I did this so I could see if i could grow something. Now that I see it is possible even under my care i plan on starting other plants. Hopefully herbs and definitely more tomatoes next year. Mine are Big cherry tomatoes. Can't wait to try them.

Congratulations! Enjoy them,

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on August 24, 2015 - 10:11am

Congratulations! Enjoy them, and once this year is done, start planning for more next year.

Hi 1st time farmer here and

Submitted by Kathy in CT on August 21, 2015 - 3:14pm

Hi
1st time farmer here and my Roma and San Marazano plants (17 Total)are loaded with fruit. Some are starting to turn red but the majority are green. All the plants are still growing and setting new flowers. Should I pinch back the new flowers so the fruit ripens? Each plant has about 8 clusters of 6-8 tomatoes. This is more than enough for us and will be wildly happy to just reap the 50 or so tomatoes on each plant. I don't want to shock them. I am in CT and it is late August. Thank you

Hi, Kathy, Nice going! • Yes,

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on August 24, 2015 - 10:21am

Hi, Kathy, Nice going!
• Yes, prune off new blossoms. And clip vigorous new shoot, too—bu do not remove an excess of foliage, as these help to provide nutrients to the fruit. Ripening a lot of fruit takes a lot of energy and may slow the ripening of the entire crop.
• Check your earliest frost date ( http://www.almanac.com/content... ) an in the weeks prior, begin to remove the most mature fruit to ripen in doors. Because the red tomato pigments lycopene and carotene are not produced at temps about 85°F (but not belw 50°F), the cooler weather that usually comes at end of summer should help to bring on the red color.
• In later Sept, as night time temps run to around 50°F, you can cover the plants if there are tomatoes still trying to turn red and give them a few more days. But at this time (or sooner, if you prefer), remove green ones to ripen indoors.
Your local weather conditions and specific plants are your key determinants here. Better to bring them in to ripen than risk losing even one.

I purchased a dozen Heirloom

Submitted by Eugene Roberts on July 6, 2015 - 3:52pm

I purchased a dozen Heirloom plants from Burpee.This is only my second attempt.I turned the soil and mixed in mushroom soil before plantimg.Now here in SE Pennsylvania my plants are growing like mad.I did something different by using 1 1/2 inch PVC schedule 40 to make a frame that would be six feet high centered over the plants.From the top I hung tomato rollers one for each plant and dropped the string to the center stalk of each plant.No instructions were given and simple pictures however they showed the branches 'clipped' with the plastic supports that they provide with the rollers and attached to the vertical string.That didn't make sense to me since the entire plant would be squeezed together making pruning impossible.I decided to let out excess line and make loops every foot.Then I used the clips that were provided to each branch and clipped to the loops.This provided plenty of width for the plant to grow while making it each to prune.Sufficient sunlight and plenty of air have produced an amazing amount of tomatoes on each plant...I am talking about over thirty per plant.Unheard of by anyone that plants them.NOW my question.With so many tomatoes growing on each plant should I sacrifice some small ones to let the others grow larger or let them all grow?
I would be more than glad to supply photos
Gene

Wow! That's a lot of

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 8, 2015 - 3:10pm

Wow! That's a lot of tomatoes! There is no need to thin the tomatoes. Fruit thinning may instead increase problems like fruit cracking on the tomatoes left on the vines.
Enjoy your tomato harvest!

Pages

Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
Special Features

FREE BEGINNER'S GARDEN GUIDE!

Sign up for our email newsletter by entering your email address.

BONUS: You’ll also receive our free Beginner Gardening Guide!

The Almanac Webcam

Almanac Headquarters Cam

Visit the Almanac HQ Webcam

Chosen for You from The Old Farmer's Store

Sign up for our email newsletter by entering your email address.

BONUS: You’ll also receive our Almanac Companion newsletter!