Growing Tomatoes

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Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
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Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

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Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Start Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop; it’s common after rainfall or in humidity. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive.
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.

See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

roma_tomatoes_ben185_getty_images_full_width.jpg
Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

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Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

black-krim-label_mighty_mato_full_width.jpg
Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

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want to learn more

Submitted by EMMANUEL MOONGA on March 18, 2016 - 7:08am

THANKS ALOT FOR THE INFORMATION AND KNOWLEDGE I HAVE GAINED FROM YOUR SITE.
I WILL BE VERY HAPPY IF YOU COULD RECOMMEND GOOD BOOKS TO READ FOR A HOPEFUL SMALL SCALL FARMER.

Compatible growing companions

Submitted by Ron Antos on February 17, 2016 - 10:52am

What can you grow to next to tomatoes and what should you not plant next to them??

companions to tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on February 22, 2016 - 1:26pm

You are referring to “companion plants”—things that grow well together. We compiled a list of the 10 most common/popular vegetables and their “friends” and foes” here: http://www.almanac.com/content/plant-companions-list-ten-common-vegetables You will certainly find tomatoes on the list; it’s probably the number one most popular plant!

Pls understand that companion plants are traditionally favorable to success but there are other factors that can put the kibosh on even the best efforts: Make sure your soil is the proper pH and is suitably composted. Plant your tomatoes in sun and water as needed. Tomato horn worms seem to resist the best companions, so keep an eye out for these finger-size (at maturity) green worms or they will destroy your crop. (Drown ‘em, of you find ‘em.)

Best wishes for a fabulous harvest!

 

 

Growing plants in containers

Submitted by ken on January 6, 2016 - 12:42pm

If I plant veggies in pots, can I plant them outside at the time I should be planting them inside, if I bring them in every night?

inside out

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on January 6, 2016 - 3:23pm

You do not indicate specific conditions or locale, but in general, we would not recommend it. Seeds need TLC in order to sprout and become seedlings. These are tender times best passed in a caring and safe envonment, protected from too much sun, wind, rain, or the errant shoe that just might knock over the pot. Later, when the seedlings have established some size and stand on their own, you should put them out or a few hours per day (depending on conditions) to ease them into the outdoors. Eventually, when soil and air temps are suitable, you can leave them out—but not untended.

Tomato imports

Submitted by angel spiteri on December 2, 2015 - 8:14am

Apart from growing tomato's do you also import them ?

Be sure to have an accurate

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 16, 2015 - 10:03am

Be sure to have an accurate soil test done to determine exactly what your pH level is and how much you need to lower it. Many vegetables do just fine with soil as sweet as 7.5. If you live where limestone in the soil is constantly dissolving and raising pH, try applying elemental sulfur. It works best when the soil is warm but still is a slow fix, taking months to have any effect. It is a process that should not be rushed. Apply it 2-3 times over the season 6-8 weeks apart, testing between applications to be sure you don't go overboard. To acidify a small area, try watering with leftover coffee diluted 50% with water. Acidic mulches like shredded pine bark, pine needles, or peat moss can slowly lower pH over time. Let your soil test be your guide.

how do I lower my soil pH to

Submitted by MINENHLE on September 15, 2015 - 9:36am

how do I lower my soil pH to favour the growth of my tomatoes ?

I just finished cleaning 4

Submitted by E. Schultz on September 12, 2015 - 2:49pm

I just finished cleaning 4 Bushels of tomatoes for canning. Can the seeds form these tomatoes be used for re-growing next year, if so what do I have to do? I also discarded the seeds from early canning into an old flower bed and covered them with soil, will these turn into tomato plants?

Appreciate your help.

ESF Shelton CT

In many cases, the seeds will

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 14, 2015 - 12:35pm

In many cases, the seeds will be viable, and you can grow tomatoes the next year. However, if your seeds came from a hybrid variety, they will likely not produce fruit of the same type as the mother plant (they may have certain characteristics that differ, such as taste, size, color, resistance). Some seeds may even be sterile. To have seeds come true (be the same as the original plant), then you need to save from open-pollinated or heirloom varieties. For more information about this, the basics of seed saving, as well as specific directions on how to prepare and save seeds for tomatoes, you might be interested in the following.
http://www.almanac.com/content...

(video)
http://www.almanac.com/video/s...

http://www.almanac.com/content...

This is the first time I have

Submitted by Mamanorton on August 22, 2015 - 10:18am

This is the first time I have ever tried to grow anything. I started with a small starter kit from dollar general. lol. I got two plants out of it. (for me i was shocked I got anything out of it, lol) I have watched it bloom and get big and have become very proud of my efforts. My one plant has become taller than I am at 5'3" which i was very surprised at, my neighbors are lower to the ground and bushier. I had a cage around mine but now my neighbor helped put metal stakes and twine around it to help hold it up and keep the top which has become quite heavy from breaking off. I am very excited to say that just a few days ago some of the very first tomatoes to bloom have now begun to ripen and turn. My 6 yo daughter noticed first and got excited. I did this so I could see if i could grow something. Now that I see it is possible even under my care i plan on starting other plants. Hopefully herbs and definitely more tomatoes next year. Mine are Big cherry tomatoes. Can't wait to try them.

Congratulations! Enjoy them,

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on August 24, 2015 - 10:11am

Congratulations! Enjoy them, and once this year is done, start planning for more next year.

Hi 1st time farmer here and

Submitted by Kathy in CT on August 21, 2015 - 3:14pm

Hi
1st time farmer here and my Roma and San Marazano plants (17 Total)are loaded with fruit. Some are starting to turn red but the majority are green. All the plants are still growing and setting new flowers. Should I pinch back the new flowers so the fruit ripens? Each plant has about 8 clusters of 6-8 tomatoes. This is more than enough for us and will be wildly happy to just reap the 50 or so tomatoes on each plant. I don't want to shock them. I am in CT and it is late August. Thank you

Hi, Kathy, Nice going! • Yes,

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on August 24, 2015 - 10:21am

Hi, Kathy, Nice going!
• Yes, prune off new blossoms. And clip vigorous new shoot, too—bu do not remove an excess of foliage, as these help to provide nutrients to the fruit. Ripening a lot of fruit takes a lot of energy and may slow the ripening of the entire crop.
• Check your earliest frost date ( http://www.almanac.com/content... ) an in the weeks prior, begin to remove the most mature fruit to ripen in doors. Because the red tomato pigments lycopene and carotene are not produced at temps about 85°F (but not belw 50°F), the cooler weather that usually comes at end of summer should help to bring on the red color.
• In later Sept, as night time temps run to around 50°F, you can cover the plants if there are tomatoes still trying to turn red and give them a few more days. But at this time (or sooner, if you prefer), remove green ones to ripen indoors.
Your local weather conditions and specific plants are your key determinants here. Better to bring them in to ripen than risk losing even one.

I purchased a dozen Heirloom

Submitted by Eugene Roberts on July 6, 2015 - 3:52pm

I purchased a dozen Heirloom plants from Burpee.This is only my second attempt.I turned the soil and mixed in mushroom soil before plantimg.Now here in SE Pennsylvania my plants are growing like mad.I did something different by using 1 1/2 inch PVC schedule 40 to make a frame that would be six feet high centered over the plants.From the top I hung tomato rollers one for each plant and dropped the string to the center stalk of each plant.No instructions were given and simple pictures however they showed the branches 'clipped' with the plastic supports that they provide with the rollers and attached to the vertical string.That didn't make sense to me since the entire plant would be squeezed together making pruning impossible.I decided to let out excess line and make loops every foot.Then I used the clips that were provided to each branch and clipped to the loops.This provided plenty of width for the plant to grow while making it each to prune.Sufficient sunlight and plenty of air have produced an amazing amount of tomatoes on each plant...I am talking about over thirty per plant.Unheard of by anyone that plants them.NOW my question.With so many tomatoes growing on each plant should I sacrifice some small ones to let the others grow larger or let them all grow?
I would be more than glad to supply photos
Gene

Wow! That's a lot of

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 8, 2015 - 3:10pm

Wow! That's a lot of tomatoes! There is no need to thin the tomatoes. Fruit thinning may instead increase problems like fruit cracking on the tomatoes left on the vines.
Enjoy your tomato harvest!

I have tomato plants that are

Submitted by Ellen M T on July 6, 2015 - 8:23am

I have tomato plants that are growing like crazy and producing lots of tomatoes that I hope are on their way to turning red. I never fertilized. Should I still try to fertilize? Which kind is recommended if so.

Hi, Ellen, you don't say

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 6, 2015 - 3:22pm

Hi, Ellen, you don't say where you are (north, south, east, west), so it's not clear if your tomatoes are "on schedule" for ripening. However, this being only July, there would be plenty of time almost anywhere for them to turn red.
As for fertilizer, we are inclined to say, if it ain't broke ... ya' know? (Don't fix it.) But if you want to, use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen (N) and relatively higher in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). An 8–32–16, for example, or even a 5–10–10.
We advise fertilizing two weeks before and two weeks after the first picking. (see above)
Here's a chart for watering frequency: http://www.almanac.com/content...
Sounds like you're having a great season!

What is the difference of

Submitted by Rick Harmon on June 29, 2015 - 1:35pm

What is the difference of determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?

I LOVE this site,have told

Submitted by Carolyn barlow on August 11, 2015 - 4:55am

I LOVE this site,have told many people how great you are!!! Please keep up the good work. TKS

I am growing beefsteak

Submitted by Beth Tucker on June 26, 2015 - 3:21am

I am growing beefsteak tomatoes. I have found some of my tomatoes with rotten spots on the bottom. They are not touching the ground, and have cages around them. I have my plants 20-24 inches apart. They are very bush like, i have not pruned any branches away. What could cause this???

Sounds like blossom end rot,

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 26, 2015 - 12:07pm

Sounds like blossom end rot, Beth, as noted above as a potential hazard.
See here for solutions: http://www.almanac.com/content...
 

Bet this Q? is a first! We

Submitted by Andrew T. on June 22, 2015 - 9:06am

Bet this Q? is a first!

We look at our tomato plant numerous times a day, every day. (It's a long story; I can elaborate if you'd like.)

We currently have 8 small tomatoes growing on a single plant, but we never saw any of them in their very-beginning, itty-bitty stage. It's like, when we look first-thing in the morning, we see a new fruit that's already at least a half-inch long and a half-inch wide. But throughout the day, whenever we examine the plant, we NEVER have seen the nascent stages of a fruit coming out from the yellow flower. We only have seen nickel- to quarter-sized fruit the very first time we see them, always in the morning. Never juuuuuuuust beginning to take shape. Always already thimble-sized or bigger.

So, the question is: does the fruit of a tomato plant first emerge in darkness? And grow quickly in size at first, in darkness? Or has it just been an 8-time coincidence for us?

Thanks!

Haha You are not the only

Submitted by Shubham Pai on June 25, 2015 - 3:33pm

Haha You are not the only ones that go to see your plants multiple times per day. It may be coincidence for you. I live in an alright climate that is often humid. If it is too humid, the pollen sticks onto the male part of the flower of a plant and does not reach the female flower. It may be that you have some great growing conditions, or plant steroids :P

This is my first year

Submitted by Anna B on June 17, 2015 - 2:49pm

This is my first year growing... I bought tiny plants of Yellow Pear tomatoes.. I did not make cages or support. it has been raining a lot for last 6 weeks, the plants are now 3 feet tall and spreading a lot. I didn't think yellow pear are too heavy. I saw some yellow pear last year and they were quite small and bushy, without supports, but my plants has gone much bigger than that.Some are climbing up the sunflower stalks, or across the ground, sprouting roots from the stems. Leaves are touching/lying on the ground. Will it hurt the plants?
Do I need to make some kind of support for them? Or put down some straw mulch around, would that help?
Also, last question. There are mostly flowers and a few tiny, green fruits at this time. When will the fruits be ready, and do they have to be picked right away, or how long can they stay on the vine?
Thanks.

It's best to support the

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 19, 2015 - 2:43pm

It's best to support the plants so that they don't spread on the soil. You can use stakes and string to tie up some of the longer branches. Laying straw around the plants is also a good idea. The tomatoes will stay green for a while. Harvest when they turn bright yellow. The plants will produce lots of tomatoes all summer long.

we planted Celebrity tomato

Submitted by Vi Brown on June 4, 2015 - 2:42pm

we planted Celebrity tomato plants, the week of Mother's Day, 2015. this is June 4th. We have 4 small green tomatoes on the vines with a large amount of blossoms. isn't it too early for tomatoes? should we pinch the little ones off or leave alone? Thank you so very much. Vi & Charlie

Tomatoes need heat. Has it

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 5, 2015 - 1:21pm

Tomatoes need heat. Has it been hot where you are? Yes, it is early in season in most parts of the country. If your plant came from a greenhouse (not seed) it may have gotten a boost from that environment—enough to produce fruit early. Now outside, in "real" conditions in a garden or large pot, it may slow its growth to mature normally in season.
 

I am wanting to plant

Submitted by Laura Berglund on May 27, 2015 - 11:51am

I am wanting to plant tomatoes is it to late to plant them ?

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Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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