Growing Tomatoes

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Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
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Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

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Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Start Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop; it’s common after rainfall or in humidity. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive.
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.

See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

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Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

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Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

black-krim-label_mighty_mato_full_width.jpg
Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

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Reader Comments

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Tomatoes need a lot of sun

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 23, 2014 - 2:50pm

Tomatoes need a lot of sun and being in the shade will stunt their growth. You may want to add some extra compost to the soil. Find out what variety of tomatoes you are growing. Some varieties don't get very big.

In south Nevada I'm growing

Submitted by Boehler on April 20, 2014 - 5:26pm

In south Nevada I'm growing tomatoes & peppers in 5 gl plastic hits buckets. It is now reaching into the 80's & 90's daytime temps. Should I move my containers into a shaded ara instead of an area that has full sun for about 10 hours. Day? Also I need to trim, how do I do that?

Move your plants to a spot

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 21, 2014 - 4:50pm

Move your plants to a spot where they will get some light afternoon shade. You can remove suckers (new growth between a branch and the main stem) from your plant to have a stronger plant with fewer branches.

Hi Almanac Editors, We

Submitted by Bec530 on April 12, 2014 - 7:35pm

Hi Almanac Editors,
We recently started a garden in our yard and for the past two seasons we have had beautiful big green tomatoes. Some of these tomatoes ripen and turn red and others just start rotting. We live in New England and have a fair amount of shade. I'm thinking that the tomatoes are rotting before they are able to ripen because there isn't enough sun. Do you think this is the culprit? Any advice is very much appreciated!

Tomatoes need as much sun as

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 21, 2014 - 4:44pm

Tomatoes need as much sun as possible. Consider growing some plants in containers that you can put in full sun. Sometimes too much rain can also cause rotting.

I live in New England aswell

Submitted by Georgie B on August 22, 2014 - 11:52pm

I live in New England aswell I also have a fair amount of shade so I am careful to stake and cage my tomatos off the ground or they ripen slower and have a tendecy to rot or get fungal deseases!Also I am making an educated guess cause you did not give to much info but it sounds like you might have a case of blossom end rot which starts to cause the tomato to rot at its base this is cause by a lack of calcium in the soil or hopefully you did not water with alot of Epsom salt in your garden and add to much magnisium cause even though a plant loves and needs it it competes with calcium on the plants ability to use it so to much and then your plant can not take up enough cacium and the end of you fruit darkens and rots

I live in New England aswell

Submitted by Georgie B on August 22, 2014 - 11:53pm

I live in New England aswell I also have a fair amount of shade so I am careful to stake and cage my tomatos off the ground or they ripen slower and have a tendecy to rot or get fungal deseases!Also I am making an educated guess cause you did not give to much info but it sounds like you might have a case of blossom end rot which starts to cause the tomato to rot at its base this is cause by a lack of calcium in the soil or hopefully you did not water with alot of Epsom salt in your garden and add to much magnisium cause even though a plant loves and needs it it competes with calcium on the plants ability to use it so to much and then your plant can not take up enough cacium and the end of you fruit darkens and rots

Tomatoes split because of

Submitted by Dinesh Saini on April 5, 2014 - 8:01am

Tomatoes split because of uneven watering. You should water the plants regularly every two to three days. Water deeply and at ground level (don't use a sprinkler). Put some mulch around the plants to keep the soil moist.
Uneven ripening causes white spots inside the fruit. Regular watering will help and use high potassium fertilizer when fruits are the size of a golf ball.

I want to ask u a question,

Submitted by UNKOWN on March 31, 2014 - 8:04pm

I want to ask u a question, can i plant tomato seeds right away on my garden? if i planted them indoors, i will get into SERIOUS TROUBLE if there are plants inside my house , there are very strict rules here were i live, i live in SC, any advice?

Yes, you can seed outside

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 2, 2014 - 10:50am

Yes, you can seed outside though we'd still start the tomatoes in small seed pots. Sow 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost is forecast into 3-inch pots. When all risk of frost has passed, you can transplant. The plants should be about 6 to 8 inches tall and flowers are forming.

I live in San Antonio, Texas.

Submitted by Jo Staples on December 5, 2013 - 11:49am

I live in San Antonio, Texas. We are expecting a freeze over the next few days. I have cherry & brandywine tomato plants still in the ground and producing fruit. Most of what is there is still green. How can I save them? I want to let them ripen. I love my tomatoes. Life without tomatoes (to me) would be unbearable. Do I cover them, do I yank them from the ground??? Please help me save my fall Texas Tomatoes. Thank you.

It would seem a pity to yank

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on December 6, 2013 - 10:18am

It would seem a pity to yank them.  And them may not last if you do. That would be quite a shock, mid-growth period.
The best thing to do is cover much more than ever. Try a multi-layered method. Wrap the plants in sheets of plastic, even bubble wrap, which has air pockets. Don't necessarily "touch" the plants; use stakes to support the plastic around and over the tops of the group of plants or the plants individually, depending ontheir spacing.
We are watching this current ice storm! Best wishes for your safety as well as your plants' survival.
 
 

Thank You. Merry Christmas

Submitted by Jo Staples on December 6, 2013 - 1:23pm

Thank You. Merry Christmas and may you have a bless-full Holiday Season.

I live in Windcrest TX. I

Submitted by Abe Abrams on December 6, 2013 - 11:18am

I live in Windcrest TX. I cover mine with a blanket if temp goes below 32 deg.

Place wooden or pvc stakes

Submitted by Michael Texas on March 28, 2014 - 2:19am

Place wooden or pvc stakes around the garden area you want to protect from freezing. Length of stakes should be long enough to go into ground about 6-8 inches and stand about 2-3 inches above tallest plants. Purchase large size plastic sheeting (the greater the thickness of plastic, the better the insulation) from a hardware store. Drape sheeting over plants, place rocks or other heavy items along perimeter of sheet to keep it in place. Makes a very good "hot house" and protects plants down to about 25 degrees (overnight temp with a warm day).

We were gone and had a

Submitted by John Quigley on November 27, 2013 - 3:27pm

We were gone and had a freeze,, the plants were covered but they froze anyway .. Can the tomatoes be used for anything even if they froze ??

If you harvest them right

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on December 3, 2013 - 12:30pm

If you harvest them right away after the frost you can use them in salsas or tomato sauces. After a couple of days they will turn soft and start rotting.

My tomato plants have reached

Submitted by Hossen Namooya on October 20, 2013 - 1:21pm

My tomato plants have reached 90 cm and has started flowering.I have been advised to trim the lower leaves of the plants as such trimming is beneficial to the plants because it will give more "force" to the top leaves and the plant will yield better.
How far is this true?
Thanks

We suggest to prune plants by

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on December 3, 2013 - 12:37pm

We suggest to prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a handful of stems are growing on each plant. You will get healthier and bigger tomatoes this way. Also remove any leaves that are touching the soil.

As your plant advances in age

Submitted by Georgie B on August 23, 2014 - 12:04am

As your plant advances in age I 100% recommend to gradually trim all bottom branches off to alleast 12 Inches from the soil surface cause that is where your fungal desease start and splash off the soil onto the leaves spreading desease plus good air circulation help prevent disease and has a tendecy to give you a healthy plant with better produce then the enery can go better into fruit production and healthier growth

I have 6 tomato plants in

Submitted by fabbdebb on September 21, 2013 - 5:47pm

I have 6 tomato plants in containers on my porch. Two are in one container that produced but the other plants have not. Those 4 are each in their own container. I live in Los Angeles and the weather has been very strange this year. I have never grown tomatoes before. Will they just be dormant for the winter or will they produce more tomatoes? I pinched the blossoms off earlier in the summer but no tomatoes on the ones in the other containers. Thanks for your help and I hope I am making sense.

It sounds as if your tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 23, 2013 - 3:45pm

It sounds as if your tomatoes are flowering. The flowers turn into fruit.  (So don't pinch off any flowers!)  If the flowers are present but they are failing to set fruit, the common reason is high temperature. If temps go over 85 degrees F during the day and 75 degrees F at night, tomatoes will have trouble fruiting; you need the weather to cool down. Similarly, when temps get cool and daylight increases, the tomato plants will stop growing.

What causes tomatoes to turn

Submitted by greentomato on September 10, 2013 - 2:38pm

What causes tomatoes to turn red. Is there anything that can be done to speed up the process?

To ripen, tomatoes prefer

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on September 16, 2013 - 12:27am

To ripen, tomatoes prefer temperatures between 68 and 77 degrees. The further away from these temps, the slower the ripening process. If it's too hot or cold, they'll stop ripening altogether!
You can't do much to speed up the process except, perhaps, take off the leaves if you feel it's getting too cold and they need more sunlight.
Once the tomatoes have reached the mature green stage, they will ripen off the vine.  Never put tomatoes in a refrigerator; it's too chilly and you'll ruin that off-the-vine taste!

My roommate and I are growing

Submitted by KariKahn on August 21, 2013 - 10:42pm

My roommate and I are growing some cherry tomato plants together. I was out earlier today, and picked what was red and ripe on the plant. He came home...and picked the ones that weren't ripe. Then proceeded to get angry with me for 'over-picking' and stunting the growth of the plant. I had been away on vacation, so I haven't been home to water it...he has been home, but I don't think he has watered in a while. The plant is about 3' tall, and regularly is yeilding between 10-20 ripe tomatoes a week or more. Now after I come back its saggy and turning brown..but still yeilding. Can you over pick ripe fruit and stunt the plants growth? I've never heard that before, and I've been growing tomatoes since I was itty bitty with my father. Any input would help to settle this debate.

Picking ripe tomatoes does

Submitted by Louise Sargent on May 19, 2015 - 10:53am

Picking ripe tomatoes does not stunt the growth of the plant. Your plant is brown perhaps because it has reached the end of its life span. Saggy because it probably hasn't been watered enough. Or maybe it has a disease that makes it brown and saggy.

I live in NE TN section of

Submitted by Kitty H on August 6, 2013 - 7:04am

I live in NE TN section of the Appalachian Mtns. We have a huge problem with late blight and have had too much rain and cool temperatures this summer. I gave up putting tomatoes in the ground after losing all my in ground tomatoes last summer. It's tomatoes in containers for me. I keep them on the porch and under the eaves to help prevent late blight. You still have to check them twice a day, even using fungicide. I've had a little blight on leaves, but so far the plants are fine. Now, if the tomatoes would just get ripe...

I have a few different tomato

Submitted by Vickie Hoffmann on July 23, 2013 - 5:31am

I have a few different tomato plants growing just a small amount, 6 plants one sweet 100 cherry tomatoes 1 or early birds and 1lemon boy all of those ones are doing well. They are producing and soon will be ripening. The other three I'm having a few problems. 2r Brandywine I think and they have potato leaf. Their bout 5 feet tall and have dark green leafs. but they are not having any flowers or fruit growing they were planted at the same time as the other three that are doing great. Just trying to figure out why I'm not getting flowers and tomatoes from these plants are they late bloomers or what am I doing something wrong ?

Typically, grape or cherry

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 25, 2013 - 2:28pm

Typically, grape or cherry tomatoes appear and ripen sooner in season that large, traditional tomatoes.
Some sources suggest that while Brandywine has great taste, it lacks disease resistance (it's an heirloom) and is not consistent or reliable in its produce (the quality, amount, even color). You do not indicate where you are, but this one also ripens late, so that might be part of the matter. You could consult a local agricultural extension service or even a nursery for local advice.

My tomatoes are starting to

Submitted by Duane Wilson on July 20, 2013 - 11:12am

My tomatoes are starting to "crack?" Also, the leaves on my tomato plants are turning brown and drying up? Finally, it's almost 100 degrees everyday here in Oklahoma. I've been watering everyday. My production is excellent. Comments on the above? Thank you.

Duane Wilson
Oklahoma City

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Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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