Growing Broccoli

Sue, the best organic way that we know of to get rid of these pests is to pick them off by hand. Look all over the leaves; pick of the loopers and brush off any eggs. Drown the larvae in soapy water.

Not the most fun project but get out there and show them who’s boss! Good luck!

If you did not pull out your plants in the fall, the snow that fell this winter likely acted as insulation for your broccoli plants. Many crops can survive under snow such as brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and cauliflower to name a few.

For Alabama, looks like one would plant broccoli in February/March for an early summer crop, or July/August for a late fall crop – fall planting seems to be preferred. For best times, contact your county’s Cooperative Extension (see http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services ). If the plants are maturing in warm weather, you might provide shade cloth during part of the day, and keep the soil moist (but not soggy). For clay soils, test the soil pH and adjust as necessary so that it is between 6.0 and 7.0; a few weeks to months before planting (for example, as soon as soil can be worked in spring without compacting it, or in fall before spring planting), build the soil structure by adding organic matter, such as composted manure; use organic mulch to keep the soil from compacting and to keep it cool.

Broccoli leaves can be eaten and prepared in the same way as kale, spinach, or other greens. Eat them raw, saute, or even blend them into a smoothie. Enjoy!

It all depends on the variety and growing conditions. An average plant can get 2 to 3 feet tall and about  8 to 12 inches wide at the crown.

Hi Sarah,

Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks if the weather doesn’t turn too cold for the plant to grow. After a killing frost you can pull the stalks. And yes, you can eat the leaves.

Be sure that your broccoli is in full sunlight. Also, broccoli does best between temperatures of about 40 and 70 degrees F. Warmer temperatures may deter head formation; it might possibly pick up when the weather cools (although broccoli doesn't survive much below 25F). Otherwise, it could be that they got too much nitrogen, which deters flowering and head formation, but encourages leaf growth. As you wait to see if your broccoli perks up in cooler weather, you might also try a fall planting of broccoli. Some varieties that work nicely in Texas are 'Green Comet' and 'Bonanza.' Around Austin, it looks like for a spring planting, it might be best to plant transplants out in the garden in mid-February through early March, so that the plants don't mature during the heat of summer (which can make it bolt or have other troubles).

There is also a phenomenon called "blindness" which can occur with broccoli, in that it does not develop a terminal bud--there is just a nub in the center; this means that the plant will not form a head, just lots of leaves. It is thought that blindness may occur if the plant was exposed to cold temperatures when young (especially during shorter daylengths), the central bud was damaged by insects etc., or possibly the young plants experienced a drought.