For daily wit & wisdom, get the Almanac newsletter.

Planting and Growing Broccoli

broccoli growing in the garden
Botanical Name
Brassica oleracea (Italica group)
Grown as
Biennial
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Yellow
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Broccoli: the crown jewel of the garden—and your dinner plate! This cool-season crop is crisp, tender, and loaded with nutrition. Whether you’re planting in spring or planning for a fall feast, follow our guide to grow your own bountiful broccoli harvest.

Broccoli is a cool-season crop, so it should be started in early- to mid-spring (depending on your climate) for an early summer crop or in mid- to late summer for a fall crop. High temperatures will affect the development of the broccoli head (the harvestable part), so the goal is to get broccoli to mature before or after high temperatures are expected.

Broccoli takes a long time to mature, so be patient! Once you harvest the main head of a broccoli plant, it will often keep producing smaller side shoots that can be enjoyed for months.

This cole crop is worth growing for its nutritional content alone. It’s rich in vitamins and minerals and a good source of potassium, iron, calcium, fiber, vitamin C, and beta-carotenes.

Planting

When to Plant Broccoli

We recommend planting transplants (start plants) or seeding indoors

  • For a spring crop, transplant 2 to 3 weeks before your last spring frost date, once soil temperatures reach 40°F (4°C), but warmer soil is preferred and will greatly speed up development. Consult our Planting Calendar to see recommended dates for your area.
  • If you are starting seeds indoors, start 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.

If you plant a fall crop, we would still recommend transplanting. Direct seeding in hot weather isn’t good for cole crops. 

Where to Plant Broccoli

Broccoli should be planted in a site that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day). Lack of sunlight may produce thin, leggy plants and subpar heads. Soil should be well-draining and fertile. Use raised beds if you can’t adjust sandy or clay soil. To increase fertility before you plant, work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost (humus) or a thin layer of manure in early spring. The soil pH should ideally be slightly acidic, between 6.0 and 7.0.

Spacing for Broccoli

How to Plant Broccoli

  • Plant transplants that are 4 to 6 weeks old (and have 4 or 5 leaves) outdoors, 12 to 20 inches apart, in holes slightly deeper than their container depth.
  • Space rows of broccoli 3 feet apart. (Closer spacing yields smaller main heads but more secondary heads.)
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Video Demo of Sowing Broccoli

For those who wish to start sowing in pots, watch Ben in this video show you how it’s done! See the whole process from sowing to transplanting to broccoli care and harvesting.

Growing

  • Plants thrive in temperatures between 65° and 70°F (18° and 21°C).
  • Fertilize broccoli three weeks after transplanting seedlings into the garden. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula.
  • Thin when young plants reach 2 to 3 inches tall. Plants should be between 12 and 20 inches apart.
  • Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Water at least 1 to 1 1/2 inches per week.
  • Do not get developing broccoli heads wet when watering, as it can encourage rot.
  • Roots are very shallow, so try not to disturb the plants—suffocate weeds with mulch instead of weeding.
  • Mulching around plants will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
  • Use row covers to minimize pests.
  • To promote the growth of a second head after the first has been harvested, maintain an active feeding and watering schedule.

Growing Broccoli, head of broccoli

Harvesting

  • Harvest broccoli in the morning, when the buds of the head are firm and tight, just before the heads flower.
  • If you do see yellow petals, harvest immediately, as the quality will decrease rapidly.
  • Cut heads from the plant, taking at least 6 inches of stem. Make a slanted cut on the stalk to allow water to slide away. (Water can pool and rot the center of a flat-cut stalk, ruining the secondary heads.)
  • Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks, in some cases, from spring to fall, if your summer isn’t too hot.
  • Learn more tips on harvesting broccoli.

How to Store Broccoli

  • Store broccoli in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
  • If you wash before storing, make sure to dry it thoroughly.
  • Broccoli can be blanched and frozen for up to one year. Learn how to freeze broccoli.

Close-up of broccoli heads

Pests and Problems

Broccoli Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectCurled, misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold.Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of water and dish soap (no additives) every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects (such as ladybugs).
Cabbage loopersInsectLarge, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrement.Handpick off plants; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; spray larvae with insecticidal soap or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)—a natural, bacterial pesticide; use row covers; remove plant debris at end of season.
Cabbage root maggotsInsectWhite maggots become gray flies that resemble small houseflies. Wilted/stunted plants; off-color leaves; larvae feeding on roots.Use collars made of plastic or tin foil around seedling stems; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; destroy crop residue; till soil in fall; rotate crops.
CabbagewormsInsectLeaves have large, ragged holes or are skeletonized; heads bored; dark green excrement; yellowish eggs laid singly on leaf undersides.Handpick; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; grow companion plants (especially thyme); spray Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).
ClubrootFungusWilted/stunted plants; yellow leaves; roots appear swollen/distorted.Destroy infected plants; solarize soil; maintain soil pH of around 7.2; disinfect tools; rotate crops.
Downy MildewFungusYellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation.Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering.
Nitrogen deficiencyDeficiencyBottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant.Supplement with a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Stink bugsInsectYellow/white blotches on leaves; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersides.Destroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall.
White rustFungusChalk-white blisters mainly on leaf undersides; small, yellow-green spots or blisters, sometimes in circular arrangement, on upper leaf surfaces; possible distortion or galls; flowers/stems may also be infected. More common with warm days and cool/moist nights. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; weed; destroy crop residue; rotate crops.
WhitefliesInsectSticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/ silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit viruses.Remove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch.

Types

  • ‘Calabrese’ is an heirloom broccoli (from Italy) with large heads and prolific side shoots that will mature for harvesting. Great for fall planting, too.
  • ‘Flash’ is a fast-growing, heat-resistant hybrid with good side-shoot production once the central head is cut. Great for fall planting, too.
  • ‘Green Goliath’ is heat-tolerant with giant heads and prolific side shoots.
  • ‘Green Duke’ is heat tolerant and an early variety that’s especially good for Southern gardeners.
  • ‘Green Magic’ is heat tolerant; freezes well.
  • ‘Paragon’ has extra-long spears; excellent for freezing.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Broccoli is part of the Brassicaceae family, along with cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and radishes.  The common type of broccoli in grocery stores is “Calabrese broccoli” (named after Calabria in Italy), which produces big green heads on thick stalks. 
  • Originally, broccoli was eaten for its stems.
  • Early Roman farmers called broccoli “the five green fingers of Jupiter.”
  • Once you’ve gotten broccoli down pat, why not try growing one of its relatives? See our Growing Guides for cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, rutabaga, kale, and turnips!

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

More Like This

Comments

<span>Swva</span> Mon, 09/15/2014 - 14:15
I planted Broccoli plants this spring. They never did head ,just kept growing leaves.Now its fall and they are still alive and huge with no broccoli. Will they eventually head this fall since they didnt die, or should I cut them to the ground and see if they will regrow?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 07/15/2014 - 13:20

Small broccoli heads are a common problem, we're afraid. 

Broccoli is a cool weather crop. Warm weather makes the plant flower (or bolt). However, you do need 55 to 60 days of cool weather for the plant to mature. Specifically, the temperatures need to be between 65 and 80 degrees—no cooler, no warmer. Yes, broccoli is very very picky with a narrow window for planting! (See our planting chart for dates that fit your area.)

When you plant broccoli, it's great that you added lots of organic matter. We might advise mixing in some fertilizer that's heavier on the nitrogen; this feeds a fast-growing head. It sounds as if you were supplying a constant stream of water for moist soil--also important.

Broccoli in the garden will never match what's in the grocery store, though it tastes much better.

At this point, you can cut the flowers off and the main head and see if your plant will grow some bite-size side heads.

We're impressed by your diligence. Gardening is a never-ending learning curve. If we may, we'd suggest an easier plant next year? See this article:

http://www.almanac.com/vegetable-garden-planning-for-beginners

 

 <span>Chantelle Michael</span> Mon, 06/23/2014 - 13:10
is it ok to plant broccoli/brussel sprouts/garlic in a mini plastic green house ? im new to the whole gardening thing
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/24/2014 - 16:33
There's no reason you can't use a greenhouse, but keep in mind that broccoli thrives in cool weather.
<span>Todd Allenn</span> Sat, 06/14/2014 - 13:11
help! my broccoli is now at about 110 days. i have one plant that has formed a floret. it looks healthy, tight and compact but it is yellow, very yellow. it was yellow when i first spotted it 3 days ago when the size of a marble. it has doubled in size in the last 3 days. it still looks very healthy about the size of a tennis ball and still very compact. but it is still yellow. am i just being impatient? or do i have a problem?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 06/16/2014 - 11:14

Hi, Todd: You may have a problem or two, but we don't think that impatience is one of them. It's hard to tell what is going on here without knowing where you are, what variety you planted, and so forth, but it's probably time to think about another planting for fall. Your plants may have gotten too hot, but the fact that your first little floret was yellow from the get-go tells us that this may be a nitrogen deficiency and not just that your plant is going to seed. Make sure that your soil is neutral to slightly acidic, with plenty of nitrogen and not too much phosphorus. Use the Frost Dates calculator under Gardening above to get the probable date of your first frost, then count backward 100 days from then to plant. With the right soil, we think you'll do better in the coolness.

 <span>Wade Hampton</span> Wed, 06/11/2014 - 21:59
My broccoli seeds, direct sow, have not come up after 14 days. I fertilized and prepared the soil and watered weekly and had one decent rain since planting. Found root fragments from a former tree when preparing soil. All of my other direct sow seeds are up and I plan to thin them soon. Any suggestions or am I just impatient?
<span>Sticks</span> Thu, 06/05/2014 - 07:14
I planted my broccoli the end of March, the leaves are huge and over 2ft tall now but still no heads. The soil is good manure compost, I fertilize with MG every 2-3 weeks and water as needed. All of my other crops are growing great just my broccoli has no heads. Is there anything I can do?
<span>Murdoc</span> Tue, 02/17/2015 - 23:36
One thing about Broccoli is that the leaves are great to eat as well. So even if you aren't getting heads, don't fret because the leaves are excellent. Look online for lots of ideas on how to prepare. We used them msinly for blended drinks and sautéed/stir fried.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 06/05/2014 - 10:48

Depending on the variety you have, and whether you planted by seeds or transplants, it might just be that they aren't ready to form the heads yet. Some take more than 10 or 12 weeks.

 

Another possibility is that the plants are getting too much nitrogen, which encourages leaf growth over flowers (the heads). Depending on the formula of Miracle Gro that you are using, it tends to have higher nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium. Broccoli is a heavy feeder, but it's best to use a balanced organic or slow-release fertilizer if you are applying it every few weeks. Otherwise, too much nitrogen may result in hollow stems and may discourage heading. If you choose a fertilizer high in nitrogen, you might try only applying it about 3 or 4 weeks after transplanting, a smaller amount when the heads are just developing, and then after you harvest the main head (to encourage small side shoots to grow, which you can also harvest). (Before planting, the soil should be amended with composted manure or similar to provide rich nutrients.)

 

Hot temperatures may also prevent heads to develop, or encourage the plant to bolt (form a flower stalk immediately instead of first developing compact heads).